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11-15-2014, 08:52 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
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Welded up
Here is a pic of the passenger side frame welded up. I suck at welding, but they will stick together. Worst of the rusty parts were cut out and replaced, and the whole thing was reinforced.
Bottom is 1x1.5 box tubing. The rest is 1x1.
Drivers side is nearly done too. A lot of grinding left to do and then I start on wood.
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11-15-2014, 10:04 PM
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#16
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Del Valle TX
Posts: 83
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Wow! I just found a soft spot in my class c. And was curious about doing the repair, but wow!
__________________
Chris and Julia, 2000 fleetwood jamboree class c
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11-16-2014, 05:31 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 1,136
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Does any of the bunk weight rest on the chassis structure or is it all a cantilever load?
__________________
2007 Winnebago Journey 36SG and 13 Honda CRV Toad,
e-Trailer XHD Towbar (Demco), Blue Ox baseplate, SMI Stay N Play brakes
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11-17-2014, 05:24 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 104
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You made a great deal, and when it's done, you'll have a real good camper for a nice price. One mistake people make is over-building. Putting 2x4's in where the maker used 1x2's, that sort of thing. Don't make it any heavier than absolutely necessary. 3/4" plywood is very heavy, and it still needs support. If you need support, it will be a lot better to build it in via the framing, not by trying to use heavy plywood.
I would not use treated wood either. Some people do that. But it's heavy and it can warp and shrink.
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11-17-2014, 08:34 AM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
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Welds are all finished and ground flush.
Primered:
and the additional "shelf" bracket to support the bunk board.
The plan is to have the weight bunk resting on the angle iron and then some on the cab. The piece directly above the cab will be more for insulation and decoration rather than structural.
The back part of the bunk is supported by the chassis and the center by the roof of the cab if the truck (at least some). Here is a pic that shows where else it is supported:
Net step is to do wood & insulation. very similar to original. I am going to look at spray foam insulation, but it may not be in the budget.
Current plan is to use fiberglass panels (4x8 sheets) for the sides and I am just going to glass the top & front myself rather than buy filon.
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11-17-2014, 11:27 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 104
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If you want to leave any rotted wood in place, look at rotdoctor.com. I used his CPES on a trailer rot repair and was very happy with it. Nasty to work with, so do follow the breather warning.
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11-19-2014, 04:16 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 471
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Great job on the reframing. I was really concerned with all the work & leaving the bad tubing.
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11-24-2014, 07:39 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
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I got the round "boobies" on the front of the cab and the wood going up the slope.
The interior plywood is luan flooring. Pretty stiff stuff, but was able to bend it around the curve. This is how it was attached to the steel framework:
Problem is the the width is a little over 8ft, so I had to use 2 panels and seam them in the middle. The middle section with the seam didn't want to bend to match the curve with the steel so things were bowed downward in the center.
A combination of scoring it with a circular saw about 1/16" deep and laying a hot/wet blanket on it relaxed it overnight and made it close enough to continue. 1 1/2" foamboard insulation glued in between upright boards.
3/4 plywood inside as the bed. It is supported by the angle iron on the steel framework so there should be minimal weight on the cab itself.
Next step is to wrap the front in 1/4 plywood, close up the sides & bottom, then fiberglass it all in.
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11-30-2014, 05:00 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Chesterville, Ohio, USA
Posts: 17
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Covered the front round part with 1" strips of luan. I tried 2" wide ones first, but it would not have been smooth enough to cover with fiberglass. I just didn't think it would look "right" so I pulled them off and replaced with 1" wide strips.
It looks much smoother.
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12-01-2014, 07:13 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Cocoa Beach Fl.
Posts: 257
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I always wondered what it looked like naked! You are making it much better than it once was!
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12-01-2014, 08:45 PM
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#25
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Del Valle TX
Posts: 83
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Looks great will last forever the way you are building it
__________________
Chris and Julia, 2000 fleetwood jamboree class c
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12-01-2014, 10:11 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 471
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Better then new.
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12-10-2014, 08:37 AM
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#27
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 81
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Great frame work! I got lucky and didn't have to get that involved. However I did have to clean in sections after securing partial framework for the bunk.
As soon as I figure out how to add picture to post I will share a few
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12-10-2014, 10:01 AM
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#28
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Community Administrator
Fleetwood Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Marquette, Michigan "Da UP" & Lehigh Acres Florida
Posts: 21,827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vol445
As soon as I figure out how to add picture to post I will share a few
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How to add photos to a post
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- Click Upload. After pics have loaded, close the pop-up window.
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Other helpful hints for navigating the forums
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f62/forum...ics-49134.html
__________________
John & Cathy R.
06 Pace Arrow 38L Workhorse W24
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