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Old 07-26-2021, 05:47 AM   #1
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Brand New - Looking for my RV Sherpas

Morning all!
First timer full time RVer and poster here!

Checking in from Monmouth, ME after 16 days straight on the road in our 1997 24ft e350 four winds. Boy, has it been an adventure!

Joined the site after reading all the caring and respectful responses to posts. I got so many questions gathered up already but Iíll keep it to the two most prominent that we are trying to understand and resolve.

1. High pitched screeching coming from front wheels/tires area. This is something that started randomly and has gotten worse. Our break pads are new and in good shape. Ppl have tried manipulating the inside wheel dish thinking the scraping is coming from there, no luck in fixing. The noise is embarrassing and makes us feel unsafe. Softly pressing on breaks make the already high pitched screech even higher. Going over bumps start and stop the onset of the noise. However when it stops, it is very temporary.

2. Battery draining way faster than it has in the past. Simply charging our phone seemingly draws the battery to zero. We have 3 x 120w solar panels and 2 batteries that I need to confirm the specs on. Just very confused how out of no where and for no apparent reason our batteries canít support the draw of a 10w appliance when it the past it could handle that without budging the charge. This is happening while not connected to shore power.

I am certain more info is needed to offer helpful insight. Point me in a direction and Iíll get the info needed.

Ps Go easy on me - we are about as green to all this as can be!
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Old 07-26-2021, 06:09 AM   #2
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When the brake pads were replaced were the rotors machined and trued?
I would disconnect the batteries, recharge them and do a load test on them. You may have a bad battery which will draw charge from a good battery. You also need to check the charging system when the engine is running with a voltmeter. You could also have something causing a drain on the batteries.
Before any testing or charging, if these are flooded batteries, ( not sealed ) be sure the cells are filled to the proper level. All terminals and connections should be clean and corrosion free.
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Old 07-26-2021, 09:26 AM   #3
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Hi ! Welcome to IRV2! We're sure glad you joined us!

Good luck, happy trails, and God bless!
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Old 07-26-2021, 12:16 PM   #4
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I would jack up each front tire and spin it by hand to see if you can duplicate the screeching sound. If you can, then I would remove the tire/wheel and spin the hub to investigate deeper.

Given that the sound changes with brake pressure, I suspect your front rotors have some corrosion that is making the noise when passing through the brake pads. Rust might be present along the outer-most edges of the pads. As LETMGROW implied, the rotors should be turned (surfaced flat and clean) when replacing the pads.

I have done "cheap" (buy more time) brake jobs on other vehicles by changing only the brake pads and manually dressing up the rotors by grinding off the formed lip along the outer edges and sand off any rust that may contact the brake pads. If the rotors are glazed, I sand the glaze off.

On typical cars, I place the drive wheels on jack stands, start the engine, put the transmission in drive, and let the rotors spin as the engine idles. While spinning, I sand and grind to achieve better results.

Again, this is a laymen's approach to a cheap brake job to buy more time before getting a complete and proper brake job. Slapping on new brake pads alone without some kind of rotor clean-up can introduce the noise you describe.

When it comes to big heavy motorhomes, I do NOT advise to slap on new pads and say "Good For Now". They are hard enough to stop when everything is perfect.
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Old 07-26-2021, 12:31 PM   #5
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Definitely check the rotors.

I'm going to break from the group on turning them though. In my experience, the new rotors seem to warp very quickly once they have been turned. The last several brake jobs I've done, I've ordered the complete kit from Rock Auto and replaced everything.

Batteries; How old are the batteries? They may be on their last legs.

Good luck, let us know how everything turns out.
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Old 07-26-2021, 03:14 PM   #6
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It is very difficult to find anyone who is willing to turn rotors, let alone turn them properly.....so I agree it is best to just buy new ones.
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Old 07-26-2021, 03:52 PM   #7
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Check wheel bearings as well.
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Old 07-26-2021, 10:57 PM   #8
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Check the water level in the batteries.
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Old 07-27-2021, 07:25 AM   #9
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Most heavy duty truck shops and automotive machine shops still resurface brake rotors and drums. Just cleaning off a rotor isn't acceptable with the metallic and ceramic pads in use today. Metallic pads can actually impregnate rotors and the rotors have to be machined to get to the raw metal of the rotor. The final cut should be done with the feed on the machine set as low as possible to get the correct micro finish. The smallest amount of run out or deviation in the rotors surface can set up a harmonic vibration between the pads and rotors and cause a squeal.
Also the caliper to spindle mounting points have to be clean and lubed so the caliper fits where it belongs freely so the pads aren't forced against the rotors when the brakes are released. Any brake pad to caliper hardware must be absolutely clean and lubed so the pads are free to retract away from the rotor when the brakes are released.
Doing a brake job right is what sets a quality brake job aside from a "Pad Slapper" which I have seen way too many of in my years of owning a repair shop and machine shop. I can't knock the "Pad Slappers" too hard. They have provided a good stream of work for my shop over the years.
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Old 07-27-2021, 09:14 PM   #10
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While there certainly could be a problem with the rotors, it could just as easily, or more so, be a problem with the calipers themselves.

I've owned several vehicles with front disc brakes........ (I won't bother with the two drum brake cars, still own them)

'71 Torino 500 (Dad's) about 180K (when totaled)
'84 LTD (the small one, Dad's, later mine) 286K (when scrapped)
'88 Jeep Comanche 160K (when I gave it away)
'91 Ranger 316K (still have it)
'99 Plymouth Breeze 234K (when sold)
'04 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix) 246K still my daily driver
'03 Ram 2500 CTD just turned 100K (no brake work yet)
'07 Winnebago View ('06 Sprinter chassis) owned 3 years and drove it 18K, had about 31K when I sold it. (never did any brake work)

The only rotors I have ever replaced were the Ranger, 3 sets. Why? Because Ford (and other auto makers) use phenoilc brake pistons in the calipers) These slowly absorb fluid and that causes them to swell slightly. Its all good until the brakes get hot in stop and go traffic on the Atlanta freeways (which I have always stayed away from when possible) and then the brakes slowly start to lock up. In every case, I was able to get off the road and allow the brakes to cool for an hour or so and pulled the wheel and did some creative prying on the caliper to get the piston in, and after cooling, it worked fine (at least to get me home and replace it). My camping buddy had similar experiences with both of the rear calipers on his '03 RAM 3500 at different times.

The calipers may be causing the problem, and just because everyone says you gotta replace the rotors every time you replace the pads, don't mean its so. I have never experienced any rotor issues except after trying to have the rotors turned on the Ranger the first time the brakes siezed. I ended up replacing them.

Charles
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Old 07-27-2021, 10:13 PM   #11
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You need to have someone Pull front wheel bearing.. take to shop.. really any good shop you trust.. ask if they are willing to try.. this could be dangerous.. so get it looked into.. did you hit any hard bumps.. and they should be able to load test batteries.. if they need replacement.. any descent shop can do it.. let someone do it.. if you have not done before.. call you regular car guy and see if he will at least look at it.. next ask him.. he knows the honest ones in your area.. and order his shop 2 or 3 pizzas and have them delivered .. you will not believe.. shop can't remember what they worked on.. but they will remember who sent them pizzas.. really it's true.. get in asap.. you could lose bearing and drop off 100 pound missal into on coming traffic.. have seen it.. and the pd, will match numbers on rim.. then camera footage.. then tow shops who picked up rv missing one wheel.. don't get into that mess.. as always good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you
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Old 07-28-2021, 09:46 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LETMGROW View Post
Most heavy duty truck shops and automotive machine shops still resurface brake rotors and drums. Just cleaning off a rotor isn't acceptable with the metallic and ceramic pads in use today. Metallic pads can actually impregnate rotors and the rotors have to be machined to get to the raw metal of the rotor. The final cut should be done with the feed on the machine set as low as possible to get the correct micro finish. The smallest amount of run out or deviation in the rotors surface can set up a harmonic vibration between the pads and rotors and cause a squeal.

Also the caliper to spindle mounting points have to be clean and lubed so the caliper fits where it belongs freely so the pads aren't forced against the rotors when the brakes are released. Any brake pad to caliper hardware must be absolutely clean and lubed so the pads are free to retract away from the rotor when the brakes are released.

Doing a brake job right is what sets a quality brake job aside from a "Pad Slapper" shotgun which I have seen way too many of in my years of owning a repair shop and machine shop. I can't knock the "Pad Slappers" too hard. They have provided a toigood stream of work for my shop over the years.

Way
Cry
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