Community Forums

robbeaudet · 12-19-2016, 02:26 PM

One more thing, if you forget to plug the shore umbilical back into the coach storage socket it won't charge the house batteries off the motor.

Larryhobby · 12-19-2016, 04:05 PM

Thank you all for responding, I went out this morning, after my Coachman Concord had been plugged in and my chassis battery dead, I now have my answer. I will be using my battery minder from now on. I was fortunate that this happened in my driveway. I again thank you so much for educating me. Larry

select55 · 12-19-2016, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robbeaudet

I have a 2008 coachman concorde, and it does charge the battery when plugged in. The panel by the step has a battery switch on it. As long as the switch is on with the light illuminated it is charging. I also found that when not on shore power I have to make sure to turn off the sat ant booster or it will draw down battery. Then I have to use the emergency start button. Good luck with yours.

what is a satellite antenna booster? never seen or heard of one??
why is it hooked to chassis battery instead of house battery? seems odd

robbeaudet · 12-19-2016, 04:19 PM

The booster gives you a stronger signal, and if you don't shut the switch off it drains the battery. Then you have to use the coach batteries to start it. Why it's wired that way I don't know. I bought the unit 2nd hand. It was that way when I bought it.

twinboat · 12-19-2016, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robbeaudet

One more thing, if you forget to plug the shore umbilical back into the coach storage socket it won't charge the house batteries off the motor.

I think you mean the shore cord needs to be plugged into the storage socket to have the generator supply power for the converter and other 120 volt items.

The motorhome motor charges the house batteries automatically thru a 12 volt solenoid.

select55 · 12-19-2016, 04:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robbeaudet

The booster gives you a stronger signal, and if you don't shut the switch off it drains the battery. Then you have to use the coach batteries to start it. Why it's wired that way I don't know. I bought the unit 2nd hand. It was that way when I bought it.

OK been in the Rv business and sat business a long time and have never seen a 12V supplied satellite antenna booster? what brand or make is it?
is this for direct sat TV or Dish net sat tv or makes no difference

Bondad · 12-19-2016, 04:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by select55

OK been in the Rv business and sat business a long time and have never seen a 12V supplied satellite antenna booster? what brand or make is it?
is this for direct sat TV or Dish net sat tv or makes no difference

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the antenna booster but I'm pretty sure you knew that and wanted to prove how smart you are.

select55 · 12-19-2016, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bondad

I'm pretty sure he's talking about the antenna booster but I'm pretty sure you knew that and wanted to prove how smart you are.

iam pretty sure you made this ridiculous post to cause trouble
for your information they make sat antenna boosters but not one that are 12Voltso that's why I was curious

robbeaudet · 12-19-2016, 05:16 PM

Sorry about the confusion guys I obviously don't know much about these systems, and was not trying to hijack this post, honestly, also thankful for the knowledge learned.

okmunky · 12-19-2016, 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Larryhobby

Thank you all for responding, I went out this morning, after my Coachman Concord had been plugged in and my chassis battery dead, I now have my answer. I will be using my battery minder from now on. I was fortunate that this happened in my driveway. I again thank you so much for educating me. Larry

Larry,

You didn't mention how long your Concord had been sitting without the engine running. Before installing the knife switch at the battery my chassis battery died after sitting for a week. After I started using the switch it sat four 4 months last summer and started on the first try.

I tried a battery tender but it couldn't keep up with the parasitic draw and the battery continued to die. You might want to have your battery tested and if it is still good here is the knife switch I installed on mine after replacing the battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Cllena-Batter...e+blade+switch

From what I understand allowing batteries to become completely discharged shortens their life.

Jeff in Ok · 01-13-2017, 08:46 AM

My coach will charge house battery if engine or generator is running or plugged into electric source provided the switch is in the USE position. If switch is in the shore position only, the house battery will not charge and nothing will work inside unless plugged into 110v power source. I use that switch to disconnect all power to coach when not in use and NOT plugged into anything.

Siesta · 01-15-2017, 09:04 PM

My 'manual' says the house battery is charged by shore power and when the engine is running. I'm not so sure about the latter (especially since the manual covers a number of their vehicles of all sizes). Is there a convenient way to check if the house battery is being charged while on the road?

twinboat · 01-15-2017, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Siesta

My 'manual' says the house battery is charged by shore power and when the engine is running. I'm not so sure about the latter (especially since the manual covers a number of their vehicles of all sizes). Is there a convenient way to check if the house battery is being charged while on the road?

With engine off, shore cord unplugged, check the volts at the house battery or power port, hooked to the house system. It should be somewhere around 12.6 volts. If it's above 13 volts, turn something on for a few minutes, to draw it down a bit.

Now start the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes. If the isolation system is working, you should read 13.2 or more volts on the house batteries.

Siesta · 01-15-2017, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twinboat

With engine off, shore cord unplugged, check the volts at the house battery or power port, hooked to the house system. It should be somewhere around 12.6 volts. If it's above 13 volts, turn something on for a few minutes, to draw it down a bit.

Now start the engine and wait 5 to 10 minutes. If the isolation system is working, you should read 13.2 or more volts on the house batteries.

Thanks twinboat, that makes perfect sense....somehow I had it in my mind, I had to be driving to figure this out....doh!...nothin' wrong with idling. On a side note, I think I need a battery isolator for my chassis batteries ( I have two), as the parasitic draw brings them down to 12.4 in less than a week. Not sure if the motor's computer will like that though...might have to 'relearn' all its stuff on start-up.