Community Forums

Hoosierlab98 · 04-21-2020, 01:52 PM

Hello.

I have a class c that has a fiberglass floor covering the bunk floor. I need to remove it but it runs under the outside support metal frame. Do I need to cut it out? I need to remove it to get to the wet boards underneath.

vicm · 04-21-2020, 04:55 PM

It sounds like you are starting to do what I am in the process of doing right now. After four days of rain, I discovered major flooding in the bunk. The Floor in my bunk was plywood. I had to cut it at the edges near the wall to get it out. I also removed the foam, which was damp, to help in the drying process. Hope this helped.

Hoosierlab98 · 04-22-2020, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vicm

It sounds like you are starting to do what I am in the process of doing right now. After four days of rain, I discovered major flooding in the bunk. The Floor in my bunk was plywood. I had to cut it at the edges near the wall to get it out. I also removed the foam, which was damp, to help in the drying process. Hope this helped.

Thanks for the reply. Yes I’m getting ready to demo it. I’m thinking about removing the outside trim all around the bunk house so I can get a good look at the top area as well. I don’t want to but not sure if water has been coming from up there. I’d hate to replace the inside stuff if the bunk roof is also rotted and moldy. Did you take a look at your roof?

Here are some pics. I also have water behind the driver’s and passenger’s doors. That’s from where the roof of the van meets the camper as I see some sealant that was put there and/or it’s from water in the bunk draining down those walls. Did you happen to notice that as well?

sibe · 04-24-2020, 06:00 AM

so you have a fiber glass covering as the floor or bed bottom on the interior..

Normally it is a ply wood of sorts with a thin venier....
I would say that fiberglass insert may be glued in place on a structure similar to what is shown by the other poster..

Mine is spongy on the floor as the ply wood got wet. I have since sealed the leaks and did a fix up.. since I have a full set of cabinates and entertainment center up there..

A FYI, many of the class C up front get damp is used in winter camping.. having the heat on when temps are under 30..... The over hang has crappy "R" value and she can sweat..and over years...

We had 2-3 weeks of no snow, clear but COLD weather, I had heat on 60 degrees while changing the rug and some repairs.. I had drips on the on the seats and head liner.. URGH,, the wood was soaked ...

I have no solution as it is design, I actually put up a curtain that came with the rig, from cieling to floor, it got cold up there and no TV. LOL . but is stopped sweeting..

Under normal use this is not an issue but...

good luck with the fix...

Hoosierlab98 · 04-24-2020, 10:26 PM

Thanks for your reply.

jjrbus · 04-25-2020, 05:20 AM

If you go to You Tube and type in something like repair RV rot, Class C overcab repair. There are many videos on the subject.
A few of them know what they are doing most are doing the best they can. The bulk of the overheads are all similar, some metal frame some wood frame, all of the videos are helpful in one way or another.

Myrons31 · 04-25-2020, 05:55 AM

[QUOTE=Hoosierlab98;5234154]Thanks for the reply. Yes I’m getting ready to demo it. I’m thinking about removing the outside trim all around the bunk house so I can get a good look at the top area as well. I don’t want to but not sure if water has been coming from up there. I’d hate to replace the inside stuff if the bunk roof is also rotted and moldy. Did you take a look at your roof?

I would remove the trim on both sides.. It will give you the best access to see what really went on. I know I had too because, if it is that brown on the inside, there is a really good chance it is on the outside. And it was. I repaired some leaking marker lights a few years before I had a complete failure of the passenger side cab over structure. It noticeably sagged about an inch and I found that was mainly due to the leaking of that trim exactly

That is why I am recommending you just open it all up. The aluminum structure "could" be compromised. The welds on some of my internal structure had failed due to rot from moisture. One of my pics show the two bars across the front that crumbled in my hand when I touched them.

While it is far away in the roof shot which I decided to do because if i was doing the cab over I may as well do the roof..... The material , plywood. near the front edge of the roof mating with the cab over was rotted. So that wood was replaced.

Hoosierlab98 · 04-26-2020, 04:54 AM

[QUOTE=Myrons31;5238224]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoosierlab98

Thanks for the reply. Yes I’m getting ready to demo it. I’m thinking about removing the outside trim all around the bunk house so I can get a good look at the top area as well. I don’t want to but not sure if water has been coming from up there. I’d hate to replace the inside stuff if the bunk roof is also rotted and moldy. Did you take a look at your roof?

I would remove the trim on both sides.. It will give you the best access to see what really went on. I know I had too because, if it is that brown on the inside, there is a really good chance it is on the outside. And it was. I repaired some leaking marker lights a few years before I had a complete failure of the passenger side cab over structure. It noticeably sagged about an inch and I found that was mainly due to the leaking of that trim exactly

That is why I am recommending you just open it all up. The aluminum structure "could" be compromised. The welds on some of my internal structure had failed due to rot from moisture. One of my pics show the two bars across the front that crumbled in my hand when I touched them.

While it is far away in the roof shot which I decided to do because if i was doing the cab over I may as well do the roof..... The material , plywood. near the front edge of the roof mating with the cab over was rotted. So that wood was replaced.

Thanks for the pictures! What a story! I know I need to pull the trim. I’m concerned that I may mess something up when I do pull it. I’m tempted to just do it though. What are the steps you did to remove it? When you pulled your side trim to you also pull off the roof trim where the bunk meets the roof? I’ve read that using a heat gun helps. Did you reuse the trim pieces or buy new?

Did you do the roof on your own? Did you weld new aluminum braces or have someone do that?

I’ve been watching videos.....

Hoosierlab98 · 04-26-2020, 04:55 AM

Thanks!

Myrons31 · 04-26-2020, 07:39 AM

All the trim was reused. It can take a lot of abuse but just don't try to abuse it. I didn't use a heat gun for any of the trim removal. It truly came off much easier than I expected for the cab over sides. Probably the reason it leaked..... I removed all the screws from top to bottom. Insert two small putty knives on either side of the trim and just pry up slightly. Move a couple inches and repeat. Same thing with the top trim band between the roof and the top of the cab over. The truly hardest part of the job was getting the old putty out of the trim to put new putty in....

The reason being that I felt that that junction of the side trim and the roof trim, had to be a good leaking point. And even though all of the Dicor "appeared" to be just fine. But upon removal of the trim the wood underneath it was found to be rotted. You will know if the area is or was leaking. The screws holding on both side and top trim will be rusted to the size of a couple toothpicks.

I was able to sister in some more steel tubing with bolts and screws as I know of no welders. I replaced the entire deck with 1/2 inch plywood. Luan for the sides of the cab over and re-laminated the glass sides with two part boat epoxy

The roof was by myself as well. And if i were to do it again. Which I am never going to do. More people.

sibe · 04-26-2020, 10:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myrons31

All the trim was reused. It can take a lot of abuse but just don't try to abuse it. I didn't use a heat gun for any of the trim removal. It truly came off much easier than I expected for the cab over sides. Probably the reason it leaked..... I removed all the screws from top to bottom. Insert two small putty knives on either side of the trim and just pry up slightly. Move a couple inches and repeat. Same thing with the top trim band between the roof and the top of the cab over. The truly hardest part of the job was getting the old putty out of the trim to put new putty in....

The reason being that I felt that that junction of the side trim and the roof trim, had to be a good leaking point. And even though all of the Dicor "appeared" to be just fine. But upon removal of the trim the wood underneath it was found to be rotted. You will know if the area is or was leaking. The screws holding on both side and top trim will be rusted to the size of a couple toothpicks.

I was able to sister in some more steel tubing with bolts and screws as I know of no welders. I replaced the entire deck with 1/2 inch plywood. Luan for the sides of the cab over and re-laminated the glass sides with two part boat epoxy

The roof was by myself as well. And if i were to do it again. Which I am never going to do. More people.

Nice work..

I will agree on the side trim that holds the corners... I have resealed mine and notices they get loose and minor leaks,, I have loosend then, cleaned and resealed making fora better job..

Hoosierlab98 · 04-27-2020, 05:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myrons31

All the trim was reused. It can take a lot of abuse but just don't try to abuse it. I didn't use a heat gun for any of the trim removal. It truly came off much easier than I expected for the cab over sides. Probably the reason it leaked..... I removed all the screws from top to bottom. Insert two small putty knives on either side of the trim and just pry up slightly. Move a couple inches and repeat. Same thing with the top trim band between the roof and the top of the cab over. The truly hardest part of the job was getting the old putty out of the trim to put new putty in....

The reason being that I felt that that junction of the side trim and the roof trim, had to be a good leaking point. And even though all of the Dicor "appeared" to be just fine. But upon removal of the trim the wood underneath it was found to be rotted. You will know if the area is or was leaking. The screws holding on both side and top trim will be rusted to the size of a couple toothpicks.

I was able to sister in some more steel tubing with bolts and screws as I know of no welders. I replaced the entire deck with 1/2 inch plywood. Luan for the sides of the cab over and re-laminated the glass sides with two part boat epoxy

The roof was by myself as well. And if i were to do it again. Which I am never going to do. More people.

Very helpful!!