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02-11-2018, 11:23 AM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Posts: 16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avfordguy
I have had a bunch of different rv's from the old gm p30 series to monaco roadmaster chassis, even a e450 99 fleetwood. Was looking at a very low miles (7100) 07 fleetwood class c E450 in north texas, took a trip to inspect it, wow just like new, anyway when i drove it it had a steering that seemed unresponsive, told the dealer i want an alignment check and call or email the results. The frame shop called me 4 days latter and said, its in spec, but your right it wanders, we do a lot of ford rv's snd we recomend removing the factory slugs and install adjustable so we can get the caster from 3.0 to at least 5.2 with a combined of at least 5.0, I thought geez someone knows alignment, i said do your best, a week latter drove it and it drove every bit as good as my lincoln mkz hybrid. Best part is its a 32ft class c on the E450 chassis and, i am at the maximum loaded weight towing a 2002 ford escape, no wander no push, semi's dont seem to bother it never a white knuckle ride, and its all stock!! No aftermarket parts.
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The key to it all is finding the right mechanic. Would love to have you guy in North Dakota!
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02-11-2018, 11:33 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 8,055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvard
With all this talk about caster, it suggests to me a profitable business model. Start a business by advertising a "big yellow shock absorber" to clamp on your steering linkage for big bucks. Then when you get the install you install old yeller AND also increase the caster. But do not tell the customer anything about the new caster setting. He will think your "big yellow shock absorber" has done a wonderful job. Naw, nobody would do that, would they???
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I looked into getting the castor changed. It's a couple of hundred to do it so I don't think it would be a freebie. ;-)
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02-11-2018, 12:02 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nothermark
I looked into getting the castor changed. It's a couple of hundred to do it so I don't think it would be a freebie. ;-)
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I was 68 years old when I did mine as a DIY project while staying in an RV Park in Wellton AZ. The Ingalls 594 bushings are on Amazon for $42.40. You need only to pull the wheel and "RubixCube" the 594s for +2.0 Degrees Caster and 0.0 Degrees Camber, install same. Then, after both wheels are done, "tweak the toe and you are good to go". I did that 7 years ago and the alignment has never been touched since. And yes, the tires died of old age, not wear. Just saying
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02-11-2018, 12:20 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 1,234
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I took mine to the local Ford dealer detailing the caster numbers I wanted and gave them the adjustable bushings to install. They checked it and said it's in spec, I ask them for numbers and they just said in spec.
I again explained to them what I wanted , day later they called said it was done, go to pick it up, printout says 2.5 degrees, bushings still in box, tech said it would be 4 or so hours of labor to fix something that was in spec.
My spring project is too change them.
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02-11-2018, 12:32 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: michigan-tip of the mitt
Posts: 1,444
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I found that a not so solid steering wheel (a bit of wander or softness) can be solved by adjusting the tow-in on the front axle.
I have done this on cars, DP motorhomes and on the Silverado I now drive.
Took them to the alignment shop, told them tow-in as far as specs allow.
The difference is amazing for a very little money.
__________________
2003 Class C, 29' Gulfstream
Next stop?
Previous rigs..2 Pickup campers,2 TT's, 3 DP MH's
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02-11-2018, 12:38 PM
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#20
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Registered User
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,336
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t55watson
I found that a not so solid steering wheel (a bit of wander or softness) can be solved by adjusting the tow-in on the front axle.
I have done this on cars, DP motorhomes and on the Silverado I now drive.
Took them to the alignment shop, told them tow-in as far as specs allow.
The difference is amazing for a very little money.
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Yep. Most rear drive trucks should be toe in at 1/4". We had to replace our tie rod ends and after setting it there's no abnormal tire wear and it handles great.
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02-11-2018, 01:44 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ransil
.....
My spring project is too change them.
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https://www.carid.com/images/ingalls...structions.pdf
Here is a link to the Ingalls 594 cheat sheet. The bottom chart is for E350 and E450. Note the drivers side on the left top and the passenger side on the right bottom. You only need to remember M over G for the drivers side and M over S for the passenger side. Play safe,
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02-11-2018, 05:56 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Grand Rapids , Michigan
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvard
https://www.carid.com/images/ingalls...structions.pdf
Here is a link to the Ingalls 594 cheat sheet. The bottom chart is for E350 and E450. Note the drivers side on the left top and the passenger side on the right bottom. You only need to remember M over G for the drivers side and M over S for the passenger side. Play safe,
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How's come the chart says nothing about E-450 but only F-350 ?
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02-11-2018, 06:01 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Grand Rapids , Michigan
Posts: 164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harvard
I was 68 years old when I did mine as a DIY project while staying in an RV Park in Wellton AZ. The Ingalls 594 bushings are on Amazon for $42.40. You need only to pull the wheel and "RubixCube" the 594s for +2.0 Degrees Caster and 0.0 Degrees Camber, install same. Then, after both wheels are done, "tweak the toe and you are good to go". I did that 7 years ago and the alignment has never been touched since. And yes, the tires died of old age, not wear. Just saying
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Will the 594 bushings fit the E- 450 when chart only mentions F-350 ?
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02-11-2018, 06:35 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 388
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The 59400.pdf bottom chart says "2WD Ford Trucks". The E350 and E450 are 2WD Trucks. I realize that is open to interpretation but you can take a quick look at the top of your upper ball joint for the familiar "horse collar" and "pinch bolt" that retains the alignment sleeves.
Ford uses a sleeve with a tab so they can do an "tweak the toe and its good to go" alignment off the assembly line. IMO.
For the record, if your RV has a fore and aft nose down attitude then it has the effect of reducing the run time caster. For example, someone mentioned +2.5 degrees caster. In theory that RV runs almost 1.5 to 2.0 Degrees nose down. Just guessing.
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02-11-2018, 06:43 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 388
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This is not a complicated DIY job. Just set the Ingalls sleeves to +2.0 degrees caster and 0.0 degrees camber and install them. Do not be concerned about the resulting caster and resulting camber BUT do be concerned about setting the toe. I shot for 1/8 inch toe in and used a tape measure to do so seven years ago. And yes, we are still driving the same 28 Ft E450 pulling a Honda Civic toad.
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