Community Forums

cherv · 06-03-2023, 05:56 AM

on our class c the power cord is in its own compartment and a PTA...to take out and feed back thru the access hole in compartment so compartment door can be closed to the weather while using the cord. anyone modify it for easier use??

l1v3fr33ord1 · 06-03-2023, 06:11 AM

cherv-

On my Class C, the cord went through the wall via a "mousehole." The mousehole was about the size of a gas filler door. I removed the cord from its termination inside the coach and put a plug on the unterminated end. Then I removed the mousehole and replaced it with an outlet. I used a Marinco ParkPower conversion kit (link here).

cherv · 06-03-2023, 07:36 AM

thanks, that is exactly what I want to do. kit makes bit much easier. question do you connect the cord underside of mouse hole? photo would help..

l1v3fr33ord1 · 06-03-2023, 09:26 AM

cherv-

As part of the mousehole replacement project I added a Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C Electrical Management System (link here). The pictures show it. The EMS fit into the space that the cord occupied when inside the coach, inside the kitchen sink cabinet. The long loop of orange (120V, 30A) wire allowed me to make all the electrical connections outside the cabinet, and then slide the EMS inside the cabinet to its final position.

I'm not sure that answers your question(s). If not, please let me know and I can share some more info.

THenne1713 · 06-04-2023, 08:01 PM

Another Unmentioned advantage is NO RODENTS OR INSECT ENTRY PATH. 4-YRS INTO OWNING my then 21yo rig, I found mouse entry thru my cord storage box, had 1/2"-3/4" gap around x3 sides. I was able to seal my gaps with cut 2"- 3" wide aluminum flashing strips bent to 1x1 angle, and installed with clear LEXEL. Good luck w/ Twist lock

Arch Hoagland · 06-04-2023, 09:14 PM

My power cord goes through a hole in the bottom of the storage compartment and, like yours, was a pain to use.

I took a saw and doubled the size of the hole after removing the little flap cover.

I leave it open and haven't had any problem with rodents for 14 years.

SeeTheUSA · 06-05-2023, 08:02 AM

Our rig had a similar issue in that the “electrical bay” is really too small to stuff in the hard-mounted 25’ or so of 30 amp cord as received from Winnebago (No roll up reel or such). I shortened that hard mounted cord to about 2’. Now when I am ready to plug into a park pedestal, I grab a 25’ 30 amp extension cord that was conveniently located in a nearby roomy bay, plug it into my short hard-mounted lead in the electrical bay and the into the pedestal. Easy!

Not sure if that’ll work in your case, but maybe ��
Good luck.

cherv · 06-06-2023, 05:30 AM

our compartment is metal, how did you enlarge the mouse hole and with what?

rjwilliams · 06-06-2023, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by l1v3fr33ord1

cherv-

On my Class C, the cord went through the wall via a "mousehole." The mousehole was about the size of a gas filler door. I removed the cord from its termination inside the coach and put a plug on the unterminated end. Then I removed the mousehole and replaced it with an outlet. I used a Marinco ParkPower conversion kit (link here).

Checked out that Marinco Park Power Kit and would like to go with such a solution to knuckle busting mousehole. One issue is that my Coachman has a receptacle for the generator inside the mousehole. Any ideas on how to deal with that?

Gold Pot · 06-08-2023, 02:04 PM

I feel your pain. I take two OTC pain pills and hope the pain goes away! I like the posted solution.

l1v3fr33ord1 · 06-08-2023, 02:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjwilliams

One issue is that my Coachman has a receptacle for the generator inside the mousehole. Any ideas on how to deal with that?

I's consider installing an automatic transfer switch in place of the receptacle.

Ann-Marie · 06-12-2023, 01:18 PM

For 30 amp cables, I just cut the original cord off about 15" from the exit hole and spliced the ends together with these.
Now easy to plug/unplug without reaching in the compartment. When departing, pull the stub in, roll the long piece up by hand and poke it in the door.
If just a short run for gas just unplug and stow. Leave the long one in place.

They are compatible with the larger molded connectors if needed.

Pianotuna · 06-12-2023, 10:40 PM

That's what I did too. Simply cut the cord and install a new male plug.

Then add a female outlet to the the remaining cord.

sibe · 06-13-2023, 03:31 AM

Personally I am not one for adding an additional split / by a plug into any hi amp electrical connection... becomes another weak link for a fail...
If required the method shown that has the outside ring that screws the connection tight is a good way or a commercial twist lock...

My power must be manually feed thru a hole in bottom of compartment.. Once feed there is a slip over plastic notched piece to seal from rodents.. It is easy to drop thru and just pull it back thru to store...
I have plenty of room to add an exterior plug, but cord still needs to go into a compartment somewhere.. I guess if your OEM cord storage is crammed or hard to get to then move it is best option..