Community Forums

frank1018 · 03-11-2021, 09:04 AM

What kind of life expectancy can you expect out of these units? My unit is 6 years old. I purchased used. 30 foot with one unit. Does not seem to cool all the way to the back bedroom that well. Just wondering how often one has to replace these.

KanzKran · 03-11-2021, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frank1018

What kind of life expectancy can you expect out of these units? My unit is 6 years old. I purchased used. 30 foot with one unit. Does not seem to cool all the way to the back bedroom that well. Just wondering how often one has to replace these.

Can you close or partially close some vents in order to increase air flow to the back? I figured that out on my van, though it was the front that was deficient, once I realized why the back was so cold and the front so hot - three out of four vents put air right over the bed in the back, and being a van, that's a pretty high concentration of cold air back there.

Oh, it's a Penguin II with no ductwork, just the interior supply/return cover.

Capt Steve · 03-11-2021, 12:47 PM

A couple of possibilities come to mind...

A 30' coach with a single 13,500 BTU AC is never going be all that cool in warmer weather and probably indicates a coach built on the cheap which will also be reflected in less insulation, a 15K unit would be better. No way of knowing, but if the original owner did not have and always use a decent EMS then that AC was likely subjected to low voltage on a regular basis which dramatically shortens the effectiveness not to mention the life of the compressor.

On a typical hot day in a mom and pop small RV park/CG, all is well until the afternoon when it starts heating up. Everyone and their dog fires up their AC and the voltage in the park drops across the board. When it gets down to 104 and below your compressor is not going to be happy much less efficient. An EMS will detect the low voltage and shut down before any damage can be done.

Try for shade when electing a site when you know it will be hot. Close the coach up early and pull your shades or add insulation especially to any windows/vents exposed to direct sun. Make sure your filters and vents are clean, free of dust and any rooftop debris. When it gets hot try running a small DC oscillating fan {about $15 at Walmart} to help distribute the cool air dropping down from your AC vents.

If you have a gasser like the venerable Ford E-350/450 or Chevy 4500 you have the additional option of running the engine and cranking your dash air. This will take a bite out of your mileage but the extra output of the dash air which is often more than your rooftop unit will help a lot {don't try this with a diesel}. I've only had to use this method once as we were hunkered down in the cornfields of southern Illinois in June hoping to avoid a wall of thunderstorms and tornados. The air temp was about 100 with nearly matching humidity.

With or without the dash air be sure and put a windshield cover in place and if not using the dash air hang a blanket across the cab to isolate the rest of the coach from the cab heat which can be substantial.

frank1018 · 03-11-2021, 06:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KanzKran

Can you close or partially close some vents in order to increase air flow to the back? I figured that out on my van, though it was the front that was deficient, once I realized why the back was so cold and the front so hot - three out of four vents put air right over the bed in the back, and being a van, that's a pretty high concentration of cold air back there.

Oh, it's a Penguin II with no ductwork, just the interior supply/return cover.

Mine is ducted but has a close off you can us to get a better push in living area. I just wonder how many years you can get. I bought it used in fall with 15000 miles on it. But could have been local use but a lot of weekends. Took it out once to check things then had to winterize. Going on a month long out west. Some guy told me they are only hold up about 5 years. Concerned me a bit.

frank1018 · 03-11-2021, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Capt Steve

A couple of possibilities come to mind...

A 30' coach with a single 13,500 BTU AC is never going be all that cool in warmer weather and probably indicates a coach built on the cheap which will also be reflected in less insulation, a 15K unit would be better. No way of knowing, but if the original owner did not have and always use a decent EMS then that AC was likely subjected to low voltage on a regular basis which dramatically shortens the effectiveness not to mention the life of the compressor.

On a typical hot day in a mom and pop small RV park/CG, all is well until the afternoon when it starts heating up. Everyone and their dog fires up their AC and the voltage in the park drops across the board. When it gets down to 104 and below your compressor is not going to be happy much less efficient. An EMS will detect the low voltage and shut down before any damage can be done.

Try for shade when electing a site when you know it will be hot. Close the coach up early and pull your shades or add insulation especially to any windows/vents exposed to direct sun. Make sure your filters and vents are clean, free of dust and any rooftop debris. When it gets hot try running a small DC oscillating fan {about $15 at Walmart} to help distribute the cool air dropping down from your AC vents.

If you have a gasser like the venerable Ford E-350/450 or Chevy 4500 you have the additional option of running the engine and cranking your dash air. This will take a bite out of your mileage but the extra output of the dash air which is often more than your rooftop unit will help a lot {don't try this with a diesel}. I've only had to use this method once as we were hunkered down in the cornfields of southern Illinois in June hoping to avoid a wall of thunderstorms and tornados. The air temp was about 100 with nearly matching humidity.

With or without the dash air be sure and put a windshield cover in place and if not using the dash air hang a blanket across the cab to isolate the rest of the coach from the cab heat which can be substantial.

You are right. The one time I took it out in fall after I bought it, it was quite warm and all the air units were humming in rv park. I never thought about it. It is a 13500 unit with duct. I am not sure of brand because unit is being serviced and manuals are in it. A guy told me they only last about 5 years and this is 6 years old. Wondering if there is any truth to this. Made me start to wonder before I go on month long trip of course in August out west. I will invest in the reflective windshield stuff and maybe for windows too. I know this is not a top of the line unit either so I am guessing not insulated that well. Thanks for the tips. I appreciate it.

twinboat · 03-11-2021, 06:47 PM

I had a 2000 C with the original AC.

It started getting warmer and tripping breakers so I got my AC trained brother to check everything.

The fix was to clean the roof coils with a garden hose. We flushed out lots of dirt and it worked much better for the next 2 years before we traded it away.

Kenny Loney · 03-11-2021, 06:56 PM

Ours is an 06 model, bought new in 07. The original A/C unit 14800 is still going strong, regular cleaning but no repairs, touch wood, 14 years. It will keep the entire MH very comfortable even in 100+ temps.

Ken

frank1018 · 03-11-2021, 07:24 PM

You guys are making me feel a whole lot better. It is at the dealer and they are supposed to clean and look it over. I am thinking it is an air xcel I read through my manuals but I havent gotten to use it due to covid and it is winterized.

jjrbus · 03-14-2021, 05:40 AM

2 years ago the AC went out in my house, around 20 years old. My last house ac was replaced after 27 years, This is Florida so getting lots of use. The OE roof air died on my 94 Toyota last year, 25 years old! I know of plenty of people with 20 year old AC. With new technology, and robotic assembly and the wisdom of gov intervention don't expect 10 years out of these new ones.

Technicians have noticed that certain brands of air conditioners develop leaks faster than others and that the newer, more efficient air conditioners are more prone to leaking than the old energy hogs. The reason for this seems fairly obvious . A/C manufacturers can raise the efficiency of their equipment by using thinner copper in their evaporator coils. Heat transfers faster through the thinner copper, but this efficient tubing also leaks sooner. One could argue that the legislation that raised the minimum efficiency of air conditioners and heat pumps to 13 SEER resulted in thinner tubing walls, more evaporator coils leaks.

Myrons31 · 03-14-2021, 06:24 AM

I will chime in on the longevity, as my 13.5 unit is going on 20 years old. My "built on the cheap' ducted unit has truly never had an issues with getting cool. Many a hot weekend at the track off generator and many a hot week at a jam packed site and no issues.
Shade can be hard to come by at the track, so yes to some of the suggestions of windshield covers and so forth.
Just make sure all seals on doors and windows are good and keep it clean in my opinion.

TXiceman · 03-14-2021, 09:23 AM

Is the unit a 13.5 or a 15 KBTUH? And my honest opinion is that one A/C unit in a 30 foot RV is marginal in hot weather.

When were the air filters and evaporator coil last cleaned. To check the unit, using a thermometer, not an infrared (laser) temp sensor to measure the temperature in and out of the unit with the fan on high. The outlet temperature should be 20 degF (+/-) lower than the inlet to the unit. It has nothing to do with outside temperature. If you are getting close to 20degF across the unit, it is doing all it can do. At if it is not getting the RV cooler, the heat gain is exceeding the units capacity.

Ken

Ken

chs · 03-14-2021, 09:27 AM

One simple and cheap thing you can do is (IF) your unit is black on the roof, Paint it white. Made a world of difference. Those black units create a lot of heat with the sun beating down on them.

Avenger61 · 03-14-2021, 11:18 AM

I’ve tried about everything in my 33 ft class c and decided to just spring for the additional a/c unit in the bedroom. I adjusted and retaped the plenum in the current 13.5 a/c unit, cleaned the coils, and cleaned the debris out of the ductwork, left as a gift from the manufacturer. I have two skylights and a bathroom fan and use those reflective pillows in all of them. I put in reflectix insulation in all outer cabinet and closet walls and installed reflective window tint on all the windows. On a 100 degree day I barely get under 85 degrees in the mh and the a/c runs constantly. The biggest heat loss is through the big bay window in the over the cab bunk. I’ve stuck a thermometer up in the bunks and recorded over 120 degree temps. I love the mh but I hate that window and those skylights. Who stands in the shower to stargaze anyway?

Sorry I think I got way off the OP’s topic.

frank1018 · 03-14-2021, 06:30 PM

This unit is a 13.5 . I have a side window but no front window over cab. It does have that cheap vent over cab. Bedroom is the farthest. It has 3 windows. After reading some advice I will definitely add some reflective on the windows back there. It may help. Those who have said they cleaned the ductwork, are you talking in the cabin area and what did you use? Thanks guys.