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Old 10-25-2021, 03:05 PM   #1
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Fiberglass delamination

I have a 94 gulfstream yellowstone class c and I'm rebuilding the cabover right now due to water damage. The passenger side fiberglass delaminated and is not straightening out so I can re attach it. Anybody got advice on how to fix this?
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Old 10-25-2021, 04:09 PM   #2
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Here's a link to a vid on repairing that area on a WBGO ........... hope it will help; but then Gulfstream walls may be a totally different "sandwich" construction. On a WBGO, one of the big concerns is not cracking the thin Filon face sheet when peeling it back to carefully scrape off the old luan.



I know others have applied pressure to the sides of the RV by parking next to a solid building and using jacks or wedges to hold the face sheet in place while the resin used for the repair cures.

Good luck with the repair/rebuild. Gotta be challenging work.
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Old 10-25-2021, 06:08 PM   #3
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YIKES... you are brave..

Seriously,, I would make a seam and get those side pieces off..

You need to clean the inside very well..

Make all that wood new and make the frame work..
on the outside a good luan can be placed on the wood frame. glued stapled etc..
the inside will be solid foam, glued in place,,
then inside luan or finish wood,, glued in place,,

Each layer glued in place under pressure if possible..

the roound roll off the roof willbe a job..

I would be tempted to buy new fiberon,..

Making up rigging to glue and fab is the chore..

My cab over was not that bad and I was able to fix leaks, dry out, inject lots of epoxy, I added some steel angles and such , as my overhead is an entertainment center, I was able to hide some fixes..
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Old 10-27-2021, 11:22 AM   #4
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I have Clamps. To apply pressure but the fiberglass isn't laying flat. That's where my issue lies. If it would lay flat I could fix it pretty easy but because of this it doesn't line up with the aluminum framing. Is making a seam the only way to rectify this issue? I had to reattach fiberglass in the back on the same side, built the framing and glued the fiberglass to it.
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Old 10-28-2021, 12:09 AM   #5
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Use FAN to dry out, then putty knife high spots to get level surface, maybe construction adhesive to reglue to dry surface? DICOR CORNER TAPE for all edges before metal trim. I have a rll, but have not used it yet? https://www.bing.com/search?q=dicor+...TA1&PC=EDGEDSE
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Old 10-28-2021, 08:13 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gltbevis View Post
but the fiberglass isn't laying flat. That's where my issue lies.

Heat will soften most fiberglass composites to the point of bending and setting when cool (thermoform). Try a heat gun to relax the bends and use weight to hold it flat until cooled.
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Old 10-28-2021, 09:58 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sibe View Post
YIKES... you are brave..

Seriously,, I would make a seam and get those side pieces off..

You need to clean the inside very well..

Make all that wood new and make the frame work..
on the outside a good luan can be placed on the wood frame. glued stapled etc..
the inside will be solid foam, glued in place,,
then inside luan or finish wood,, glued in place,,

Each layer glued in place under pressure if possible..

the roound roll off the roof willbe a job..

I would be tempted to buy new fiberon,..

Making up rigging to glue and fab is the chore..

My cab over was not that bad and I was able to fix leaks, dry out, inject lots of epoxy, I added some steel angles and such , as my overhead is an entertainment center, I was able to hide some fixes..


Morning....noticed you mentioned "buy a new Fiberon"...
Sorry I need to ask you what is that?

Nevermind...found it!
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:24 AM   #8
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Well without removing the piece of fiberglass I did remove highs pots because it was particle board on the fiberglass and that is the biggest pian to remove, I used liquid nails to glue the fiberglass to the frame and gon a put at least one support on the inside to glu the fiberglass to as well. I'm on the last stage of gluing the fiberglass now. Almost there guys! This is basically the method I used in the back but my problem up front was that the over cab was sagging on the passenger side. I'd like to be able to get a bit more weight up there anyways so I'm fabricating braces out of steel and attatching them to the framing that holds the fenders up on either side of the engine compartment. The pictures shown here are before welds and not accurate to what the final product will be but here's a little representation of it
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Old 11-01-2021, 05:27 PM   #9
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Well here she is with the overcab supports. The over cab held about 400lbs today and didn't feel like there was any movement to it.
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