Community Forums

sneaky · 09-28-2020, 08:40 AM

I have a 2004 Gulfstream Endura Super C, gas. Cranks but wont start occasionally. I replaced plugs and wires and fuel filter, still did it, only occasionally, but it should not be something to think about when turning the key. I just replaced the in-column ignition switch assembly, drove from NY to Ga. over 5 days, no issue at all. Came home, rv sat 3 days, loaded up race car and went to a track 75 miles away, ran fine, parked for 3 days racing, started to return home and it fired and ran rough like it was starving for fuel and then stalled and would not restart, just cranked . Turned ignition off several times in between, then started and I drove home 75 miles fine, shut down in the driveway and restarted several times fine. I'm thinking the fuel pump is going, I also replaced the fuel pump relay with the tune-up so I know it's new. ??????

Bob_C · 09-28-2020, 09:32 AM

Get a gauge and check fuel pressure....

A32Deuce · 09-28-2020, 04:04 PM

Check your elec connections under the dash. Clean and use proper contact cleaner. Had that with mine, only mine would not even crank.

kenwyatt · 09-28-2020, 04:09 PM

Had a truck get intermittent one and ended up replacing the crank sensor. They can also get trash/metal filings on them that will degrade the signal. Easy to replace or clean. At least on mine it was

sneaky · 09-28-2020, 06:19 PM

Put pressure gauge on. Has 60 psi when key turned on, then drops to 50, with engine running it's steady at 50, when running it climbs to 55 with engine reved to 3000 rpm. With key off it holds 50 psi. I think that's about normal. I checked fuse and relay before testing and both were good.
Can't get at any pump wiring by the tank, it's all hidden at the top of the tank. Anyone know of any connection points near the tank I can test for power to the pump?, Maybe color of the pump power wire?
Any ideas???

Ron Dittmer · 10-01-2020, 06:08 AM

Fords have a fuel cut-off switch designed to "trip" when the vehicle is in an accident. It's purpose is to prevent fuel from being pumped on the accident scene if the fuel line ruptured.

On my 2007 E350 motor home, that switch is located in the right foot well, right side. It can be reset it by "feeling" it with your hand over the top of the right plastic kick panel.

Years ago we owned a 1986 Ford Taurus. I once had to go in the trunk and reset the switch which on that car is located there. I assume the car jolted so bad from a bump in the road that the switch thought the car got into an accident.

If you own a Ford, located that switch, reset it, and maybe all will be well. Maybe other chassis manufactures have a similar safety switch.

sneaky · 10-01-2020, 08:00 AM

There is no safely switch on a Kodiak chassis, I have owned Ford rvs with that. This starts and runs now, just once in a while it won't start unless I turn ignition switch on and off several times. Also just replaced the ignition switch assembly 2 weeks ago.
Thinking it is something to do with the fuel prime circuit before the fuel pump with turn on.

Btm · 10-01-2020, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sneaky

I have a 2004 Gulfstream Endura Super C, gas. Cranks but wont start occasionally. I replaced plugs and wires and fuel filter, still did it, only occasionally, but it should not be something to think about when turning the key. I just replaced the in-column ignition switch assembly, drove from NY to Ga. over 5 days, no issue at all. Came home, rv sat 3 days, loaded up race car and went to a track 75 miles away, ran fine, parked for 3 days racing, started to return home and it fired and ran rough like it was starving for fuel and then stalled and would not restart, just cranked . Turned ignition off several times in between, then started and I drove home 75 miles fine, shut down in the driveway and restarted several times fine. I'm thinking the fuel pump is going, I also replaced the fuel pump relay with the tune-up so I know it's new. ??????

Had a Itasca Sunflier that had same problems. Did all the changes like you. Spent many dollars at 2 different shops. I bought it new with the problem starting at about 20K miles.

Sometimes it would cough and die, maybe not start, stop as if you cut the key off or run many miles just fine.

A friend offered to help disconnect gas lines and blow them out. The line from the fuel filter (about halfway back to the tank) had a small amount of rust. The fuel line tube in the tank entered from the top. A flange ,gasket with 5 bolts.

A last ditch effort was to remove the GAS tank. It took us several days because so much had to be removed before the tank would come out.

Lifted out the flange, fuel gage along with the pick up tube.

The pick up tube had 2 screens socks. 1 the size of your thumb and another covering it. Both were sucked FLAT and covered with flakes of RUST with a few small openings. I had never heard of a rusty gas tank. Was it rusty when made or rusted with fuel in it ? Cleaned the tank as much as possible, added a new sock, put it all back together and added fuel.

It started on 2nd try at cranking and ran until I sold it years later.

Btm

A32Deuce · 10-01-2020, 08:59 AM

The 10 persent ally in the fuel absorbs moisture. The tank was clean when new.

sneaky · 10-02-2020, 07:00 AM

That's interesting, I did change the in-line fuel filter a few months ago, and the one on it looked really old and rusty. I cut the old one open to inspect the inside and it was clean, no rust inside and very little dirt. I also hooked up a line off the bleeder valve of my fuel test gauge from the injector rail and let it pump fuel into a Gatorade bottle while the engine was running, fuel was crystal clear. I was thinking maybe something was going on like that, but looked good.
I actually witnessed this problem when I had the test gauge attached, rv had sat for 1 day, I attached my gauge, turned on the key and there was no fuel pressure, tried to start and it fired, coughed and died. Turned off the key and then back on and gauge jumped to 60 psi, cranked and started right up??.
It's at a shop now that's looking into the prime circuit before they drop the tank. They have a long pit for working on semi's so the entire underside is accessible.
Still would like to know where the in-line fuel pump is located that the parts stores show for that chassis, I can not find it anywhere, unless it's located directly on top of the tank?.

Btm · 10-03-2020, 12:05 AM

On my M H there was a pump IN the tank and with a mechanical pump at the engine. The M H was Built in 1990.

The in tank pump did not always run when I had it out testing it. I think that is why the engine ran some time (along with the rust covered flattened screens) and other times would not even start. I believe that is why the engine could stop so quickly and appear to be an electrical problem.

Auto stores thought I was crazy when I took the old one in to get another one. They acted like I was nuts and told me there was no such thing.

The pump was riveted together, so I drilled the rivets out and used long small hobby bolts to keep the ends on after cleaning the rust out of it.

I have been reluctant to tell this to most people because it seems like a made up story. It was a long time ago, but after being stuck on the side of the road many times, spending many hours and dollars trying to fix the problem it's not easily forgotten.

Maybe this info can help you find your problem.

Btm

Bobby F · 10-03-2020, 02:19 AM

Maybe you covered this and I missed it:

You measured fuel pressure - did you measure it while the engine was failing to start?

Mudfrog · 10-03-2020, 08:49 AM

Different animal but same symptoms. I fought the crank/intermittent no start issue for about 5 years on my 01 Jeep.

Checked wiring, as best I could. Tried swapping relays (fuel pump, etc,,), and checked all tubing and vacuum lines. Nada.

Reading online, the most common cause listed was bad CPS. Replaced that first, it seemed to do the trick, for a short time. Being that the replacement was a non OEM part, I got the Mopar part for a 2nd attempt. Still a no go.

Ok, saw a few suggestions that the TPS might cause the problem. Replaced that, nope.

Someone suggested pulling the dash instrument cluster and cleaning all the contacts. Seemed a bit far fetched but I tried it anyway. Still a nope.

Bought a fuel pressure gauge set and went to checking fuel pressures. Pump pressure was fine and there was no bleed down between starts.

Finally, and I know the OP already did this, bought and replaced the ignition switch. Problem solved. Who knows, maybe the OP's new ignition switch, especially if it's aftermarket, is malfunctioning.

sneaky · 10-03-2020, 01:31 PM

I did not check pressure when RV would not start, pressure gauge was at home and I was 75 miles away. I did check and posted what I found the very next day.
RV is doing the same exact no start situation as before the new ignition switch was installed, it's a Napa part and 2 weeks old now.