Community Forums

code2e · 07-24-2022, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

You are spinning your wheels going nowhere.
If you'd take the advice I offered in post #43 you could take the old line with you and a new line could be made up without using any of the old line or fittings. A new fitting on each end of the line and using the nylon fuel line in these kits you could have a new line from end to end, tie the line back to the frame or other existing lines with plastic cable ties and be done with it. The new fittings will have a push button and releasing them is simple. The nylon line is durable and will outlast anything you put it on.
When I ran my auto repair shop we used these kits almost on a daily basis and never had a problem. Where I live we dealt with rusted fuel lines constantly.
Do it right and do it once.
PS, these kits don't have to be S.U.R & R kits. NAPA and other suppliers have similar kits which will work equally as well.

You might refer to the original post. The line was leaking on hot exhaust. There is a reason the original line is made with a metal section in the middle. Nylon melts when too close to heat. Also he would have to re-route an all nylon fuel line as it could not be clamped to the existing brackets mid run or survive the heat.

I think OP will be well served retaining the metal and original routing. A double flared inverted connection makes a durable and reliable transition to fuel injection hose running in open cooler space.

SergioP · 07-24-2022, 01:33 PM

The nylon line can be wrapped with DEI heat wrap. Then route it as far away from the exhaust as much as possible.

LETMGROW · 07-24-2022, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by code2e

You might refer to the original post. The line was leaking on hot exhaust. There is a reason the original line is made with a metal section in the middle. Nylon melts when too close to heat. Also he would have to re-route an all nylon fuel line as it could not be clamped to the existing brackets mid run or survive the heat.

I think OP will be well served retaining the metal and original routing. A double flared inverted connection makes a durable and reliable transition to fuel injection hose running in open cooler space.

How far was the line away from the converter? Put a pin hole in a fuel line under pressure and tell me how far it can spray.
Some things have to be left up to the installer. I would hope he or she would not run any line next to a hot exhaust. That is an advantage to the nylon line. You can run it nearly anywhere.

code2e · 07-24-2022, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

How far was the line away from the converter? Put a pin hole in a fuel line under pressure and tell me how far it can spray.
Some things have to be left up to the installer. I would hope he or she would not run any line next to a hot exhaust. That is an advantage to the nylon line. You can run it nearly anywhere.

In this case, the leak was within a run of convoluted tubing and ended up dripping down onto a catalytic convertor. There are cats on both sides of this V-10. I found a picture shown below. Room is at a premium getting from frame rail mounted fuel filter to top rear of intake manifold, to fuel rail.

I agree it would be possible to route nylon, just think it's easier to modify the OEM line. Cost is likely similar.

LETMGROW · 07-24-2022, 03:56 PM

I'll leave it up to the OP if they want to repair a 15 YO fuel line which has sprung a leak or replace the line entirely with new line.

jeep2001 · 07-24-2022, 06:02 PM

Thanks everybody for all the advice. I think where the line is routed it must get very hot from the exhaust. There is a very big heat shield I had to unbolt and moved out of the way to even get to the line. The line also had some silver heat reflecting wrap on it because of the heat I think. There some sharp turns on the original line and I not sure the Nylon line will bend without kinking. I am going to take a tubing cutter and cut the line tomorrow. Do I need a special cutter for stainless steel line? Thanks again I appreciate all the help.

code2e · 07-24-2022, 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeep2001

Thanks everybody for all the advice. I think where the line is routed it must get very hot from the exhaust. There is a very big heat shield I had to unbolt and moved out of the way to even get to the line. The line also had some silver heat reflecting wrap on it because of the heat I think. There some sharp turns on the original line and I not sure the Nylon line will bend without kinking. I am going to take a tubing cutter and cut the line tomorrow. Do I need a special cutter for stainless steel line? Thanks again I appreciate all the help.

A good quality tubing cutter should do fine. I would cut as close to the crimped end by the leak as possible. Tool takes up some room and flaring will use 1/8
inch. You should have plenty of line. Only take up tiny amounts once on each rotation of tubing cutter. Will give you best result.

tap4154 · 07-24-2022, 06:52 PM

One hint on using tubing cutters, spray it with WD-40. It will make the threads operate much better, and the cutting wheel work better.

code2e · 07-24-2022, 07:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tap4154

One hint on using tubing cutters, spray it with WD-40. It will make the threads operate much better, and the cutting wheel work better.

Good point

jeep2001 · 07-25-2022, 08:38 PM

Thanks guys on the information, my tubing cutter is kind of large and will take up quite of room when cutting. I going to get a smaller cutter tomorrow. Thanks again for the advice.

jeep2001 · 07-26-2022, 09:18 PM

Thanks guys, I went to the part store today and they said I need a special flaring tool to do stainless steel lines, and they didn’t have one. Can some recommend a flaring tool for stainless steel lines. I call a couple of shop and they said they couldn’t flare my gas line. Thanks

code2e · 07-26-2022, 10:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeep2001

Thanks guys, I went to the part store today and they said I need a special flaring tool to do stainless steel lines, and they didn’t have one. Can some recommend a flaring tool for stainless steel lines. I call a couple of shop and they said they couldn’t flare my gas line. Thanks

Sorry you are having so much trouble finding help. Wish we were nearby, I'd be happy to do it for you.

Not sure what shops you may have tried. Were any a free standing machine shop? I mean not a backroom to a parts store, but someone who is a machinist?

Anyway, I looked around and found some instructions for cutting and double flaring stainless. They recommend cutting with a 32 tooth hacksaw blade. Saying that a hardened tubing cutter might work-harden the tube, making the flaring tougher. I like their reasoning.

Take a look and see what you think.

https://helpcenter.jegs.com/hc/en-us...-Steel-Tubing-

jeep2001 · 07-28-2022, 09:42 PM

Thank you so much code2E. Sorry I been under the weather for a couple of days. I tried all the part store with no luck. Thank for the great information on cutting and flaring stainless steel line. I think the machine shop idea is great. I will call tomorrow to these these shops to see if they can double flare this line. I like the idea about cutting the line with a 32 tooth hack saw. If I use a tubing cutter it will take about 1 1/2 more tubing than the hack saw. One part store said to run gas line end adapters with barb ends and then run fuel injector rubber line to make a new line. Would this be a safe way to fix it or just a temporary fix to move it around the yard? Thanks again for all the help.

code2e · 07-28-2022, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeep2001

Thank you so much code2E. Sorry I been under the weather for a couple of days. I tried all the part store with no luck. Thank for the great information on cutting and flaring stainless steel line. I think the machine shop idea is great. I will call tomorrow to these these shops to see if they can double flare this line. I like the idea about cutting the line with a 32 tooth hack saw. If I use a tubing cutter it will take about 1 1/2 more tubing than the hack saw. One part store said to run gas line end adapters with barb ends and then run fuel injector rubber line to make a new line. Would this be a safe way to fix it or just a temporary fix to move it around the yard? Thanks again for all the help.

Sorry to hear you being under the weather. Hope that has passed.

If using gas line and hose barb adapters means replacing the whole fuel line from filter to fuel rail? I would only do that as a temporary measure to move the coach. Thinking the heat from exhaust is too much for hose or nylon alone.

If this is becoming too much trouble, I have another method you could consider. Ford used stainless tubing rather than mild steel tubing, like brake line, for corrosion reasons. Vehicles operated in the rust belt where they use road salt, corrosion is a problem. Mild steel is rated in the 1,000's of lbs. PSI and is good for fuel.

You have a sample in your original line. Mild steel lines are readily available with inverted double flare nuts on each end already. It bends easily with a tubing bender. Unlike stainless. You could get the appropriate length. They are sold in many lengths. Using a tubing bender, you could duplicate your original metal section, install it and finish with the proper adapters and fuel injection hose on both ends.

I think you could do this yourself, but will need a tubing bender. I would do whole line in 5/16". If not your cup of tea, will be easier to find someone to bend mild tubing and no cutting or flaring needed.

This will be safe and handle the exhaust heat issue. Mount up exactly the same. Only thing you are losing is corrosion resistance. Do you drive in road salt area's?