Community Forums

code2e · 07-28-2022, 10:19 PM

I found a picture of a sample steel fuel line

donr103 · 07-28-2022, 10:32 PM

I have used simple compression fitting for f/l and never had a problem.. just jumping in here.. female to female compression fitting and line on.. wrap line in aluminized heat shield and boom done.. simple hand tools.. but that is my opinion..
Good luck and keep us posted

jeep2001 · 07-29-2022, 09:56 PM

Thanks code2e and donr103. I am feeling a little better, I think the hot temperatures got to me. I like the suggestion about the regular steel tubing, I will have to lay the line out and see how much steeling tubing I need. Then I will need a barb fitting on the end of the tube, would you have and pictures or part # of these barb fitting. The idea of the compression fitting is very good also, but I think someone said that using a compression fitting on a stainless steel line is hard to get a good seal because of the hardness of the stainless steel. If I am wrong on this please correct me? I want to thank everybody for all the help getting me through this problem. Any recommendations on the type of tubing bender I need for the 5/16 line. Thanks again

code2e · 07-29-2022, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeep2001

Thanks code2e and donr103. I am feeling a little better, I think the hot temperatures got to me. I like the suggestion about the regular steel tubing, I will have to lay the line out and see how much steeling tubing I need. Then I will need a barb fitting on the end of the tube, would you have and pictures or part # of these barb fitting. The idea of the compression fitting is very good also, but I think someone said that using a compression fitting on a stainless steel line is hard to get a good seal because of the hardness of the stainless steel. If I am wrong on this please correct me? I want to thank everybody for all the help getting me through this problem. Any recommendations on the type of tubing bender I need for the 5/16 line. Thanks again

If you have a fabric tape measure that would be good. Can always use string, tape to tube in places, cut to total length and measure the string.

You are correct about compression fitting on stainless. Not good.

I shopped around internet for best price and availability. Summit Racing won.

The #824550 works by itself, just not the best hose barb.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-824550?rrec=true

The #721550 has a better hose barb but needs the U516 Unions to fit each end. (they come in pack of 4, you need only 2)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edd-721550
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ops-u516

Lastly they have a good tube bender for a fair price. From OTC Tools.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/otc-6515

jeep2001 · 07-31-2022, 01:02 AM

Thanks code2e for all the amazing research you did and parts you came up for me. I really appreciate all your time and effort for the constant help. I measured the stainless steel line and came up between 17”-20”. I am hoping to find a steel line in that measurements without cutting. I am a little lost on why I would need a union for the better barb fittings? I was thinking the better barb fittings would just screw into the double flare line ends. What would be the best 5/16 rubber fuel injection lines? I seen some with mesh coating like the factory rubber lines, is that the best you think. Cost is not a factor, I just want to make this repair safe. Thanks again for your great help.

jeep2001 · 07-31-2022, 01:13 AM

I seen your picture of the 24” steel line and think that should work fine. I order some end fittings from Amazon and I will take some pictures of them. Can you let me know if these fittings will work? Thanks you

SergioP · 07-31-2022, 02:25 AM

If the pre made line is too long you could make it do a circle with the tubing bender.

Ron Dittmer · 07-31-2022, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SergioP

If the pre made line is too long you could make it do a circle with the tubing bender.

Good tip!

A full 360 degrees is sometimes a bit much. Then consider an "S" curve. Both are considered normal practice. Just don't have a length of line that is excessively heavy without support via a line bracket or zip ties. You don't want it flopping around.

code2e · 07-31-2022, 12:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeep2001

Thanks code2e for all the amazing research you did and parts you came up for me. I really appreciate all your time and effort for the constant help. I measured the stainless steel line and came up between 17”-20”. I am hoping to find a steel line in that measurements without cutting. I am a little lost on why I would need a union for the better barb fittings? I was thinking the better barb fittings would just screw into the double flare line ends. What would be the best 5/16 rubber fuel injection lines? I seen some with mesh coating like the factory rubber lines, is that the best you think. Cost is not a factor, I just want to make this repair safe. Thanks again for your great help.

You can get a 20" length as well, if the 24" is a bit long. On Amazon it is a "AGS BL520". Their description is poor, but that part number is a 5/16 X 20" steel line with male flare fittings.

The reason unions are needed just for the better hose barb fittings is both the fitting and the line are male threads. The union is double ended female to join the line with the fitting at each end. The single barb hose fitting has a female inverted flare end, so it will thread to the line without a union. Single barb is not a bad thing, but multiple barbs are better at sealing higher pressures.

Any 5/16 hose rated for fuel injection use will be fine. Should say fuel injection hose right on it. Clamps should be for fuel line as well. Best ones have a smooth metal band that keeps the worm drive from cutting into the hose.

Not sure I've seen the mesh covered hose you mention. Be happy to look at it if you give a brand name and what they call it.

code2e · 07-31-2022, 12:32 PM

Here is an excellent fuel injection hose on Amazon. The page also shows the type of hose clamps I was referring to.

https://www.amazon.com/Gates-27348-B...e%2C214&sr=1-6

This hose is rated for service at 275 degrees constant and 225 PSI fuel pressure. Also handles ethanol well.

If you felt temperatures might be too hot where the hose was located. There is insulation tubing available to slip on over the hose as well.

LETMGROW · 07-31-2022, 02:44 PM

I can't believe I just read post # 80 (including the OP's) on replacing a leaky fuel line. Had my advice been taken using the fittings and nylon line this thread would be over. You could route the nylon up and over anything you wanted to to avoid any issues of heat interference.
Now that everyone is insisting on using steel line I'll offer one more suggestion:
Cut the rubber line off where the steel line ends inside it. Using a length of 5/16 steel brake line longer than you think necessary grind down the flare on the line to where it sticks above the line but will fit into the line. Using fuel injection clamps insert the steel line into the rubber line so you have space to install the clamps. You want the clamps positioned so the rise on the line can't pass by the clamps. Now install the line and bend the line as necessary to get the fit you desire. Brake line is soft and made to bend into shape. You can't be crazy with it but gentle sweeping bends will work just fine. Once you have the line in the shape you want and have figured out the length you need you can grind down the other flare, insert the steel line into the rubber line, clamp it, secure it and be done with it.
Brake lines come in various lengths. If you can't find exactly the length you want buy a few different lines and a double female flare fitting so you can join two lines together. Size everything up, install the line(s) and return the unused line to the parts store.
The reason I have you grind the line is the flare is too large to insert into the rubber line without chancing damage or scuffing of to the inside of the rubber line. It's a double flare so you have adequate room to work with and plenty of strength.
Questions?

code2e · 07-31-2022, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LETMGROW

I can't believe I just read post # 80 (including the OP's) on replacing a leaky fuel line. Had my advice been taken using the fittings and nylon line this thread would be over. You could route the nylon up and over anything you wanted to to avoid any issues of heat interference.
Now that everyone is insisting on using steel line I'll offer one more suggestion:
Cut the rubber line off where the steel line ends inside it. Using a length of 5/16 steel brake line longer than you think necessary grind down the flare on the line to where it sticks above the line but will fit into the line. Using fuel injection clamps insert the steel line into the rubber line so you have space to install the clamps. You want the clamps positioned so the rise on the line can't pass by the clamps. Now install the line and bend the line as necessary to get the fit you desire. Brake line is soft and made to bend into shape. You can't be crazy with it but gentle sweeping bends will work just fine. Once you have the line in the shape you want and have figured out the length you need you can grind down the other flare, insert the steel line into the rubber line, clamp it, secure it and be done with it.
Brake lines come in various lengths. If you can't find exactly the length you want buy a few different lines and a double female flare fitting so you can join two lines together. Size everything up, install the line(s) and return the unused line to the parts store.
The reason I have you grind the line is the flare is too large to insert into the rubber line without chancing damage or scuffing of to the inside of the rubber line. It's a double flare so you have adequate room to work with and plenty of strength.
Questions?

Clamping rubber line onto a smooth, barbless tube is not workmanlike. We need to keep in mind this is a high pressure fuel line positioned right over a catalytic convertor.

The double female flare fitting you referred to is called a union. I only mention that so OP won't wonder about a different fitting.

LETMGROW · 07-31-2022, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by code2e

Clamping rubber line onto a smooth, barbless tube is not workmanlike. We need to keep in mind this is a high pressure fuel line positioned right over a catalytic convertor.

The double female flare fitting you referred to is called a union. I only mention that so OP won't wonder about a different fitting.

If you had read my post you would see where I specifically said to grind down the flare on the end of the line. What is left would become a barb. Yes, after 61 years of working in the auto/truck repair business, owning and operating a NAPA Auto Care Center for the last 36 years I worked along with an automotive machine shop for the last 20 years of my career I might know what a 'Union' is. Does the OP? Maybe, I was simply trying to simplify it for him.

jeep2001 · 07-31-2022, 11:21 PM

Thanks everybody I went to two parts stores today but they didn’t have any 5/16 x 20”or 24 inch line. I will try a few more parts stores tomorrow. Code2e in post 71 you show an in-line tube, would you have a part # for this and where I can buy this at. Thanks you so much. I couldn’t find it on the Internet anywhere. Maybe I’m not looking it up right on the Internet. I did get 2 end fitting and will post pictures of them and can you let me know if these will work. I am sorry that my gas line problem is going on 80 posts. I definitely don’t want be a burden on this forum. Thanks again everyone for the great help.