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Old 05-18-2022, 08:05 AM   #15
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I installed a 12V deep cycle today. Most of the wiring seems to be in good shape, the battery is getting power to the whole 12V system. All the 12V light fixtures work, Panoptic "water control panel?" works, fans for air system works (no heat without LP), stove light and exhaust fan work. The refrigerator isn't working and my water pump isn't turning on, though I don't know if it will turn on with no water.

What was your dad's RV? I love all these old dodge motorhomes, class A or C!

It was a Dodge Brougham, very similar to this one. I probably have a picture of him with it around here somewhere. I had the privilege of driving it a few times. Solid as a rock.
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Old 05-18-2022, 11:14 PM   #16
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re: water ump, you can run for a second or three to test, suggest NOT longer to prevent dry run damage
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Old 05-19-2022, 02:26 PM   #17
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re: water ump, you can run for a second or three to test, suggest NOT longer to prevent dry run damage
It's a newer Sureflo pump that should be fine to run dry for a while but I'll just test it for a couple seconds! Click image for larger version

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Old 05-19-2022, 02:29 PM   #18
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It was a Dodge Brougham, very similar to this one. I probably have a picture of him with it around here somewhere. I had the privilege of driving it a few times. Solid as a rock.
Man, that is beautiful! I came across a Brougham for sale in my search, it's a very nice looking RV. Pretty cool interior layout as well!
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Old 05-19-2022, 02:42 PM   #19
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1) So what is in the gray box next to your marking of (Inverter?); 2) When Converter installed (12v-35a) or (12v-45a) should work fine for single Group 24 or Group 27 RV/Marine? 3) When lighting converted to LED Fixtures, remove all 120v lighting wiring. What appliances are fed by other breakers? (guessing 15a to Converter?)
Thanks for the converter recommendation! I found a great deal on a well reviewed 55a Powermax converter on Amazon, I'll probably go with that as it's $10 more than the 45a and has better reviews.

1) The gray box is my house battery compartment, empty in that picture.
2) I've since installed a 12V - 90ah deep cycle Marine/RV battery
3) I honestly have no idea what else the breaker is supplying with power. The fridge is plugged into a 120v outlet. The outlet works but the fridge does not, it doesn't work when on 12v power either.
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Old 05-20-2022, 09:11 AM   #20
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i had (2) dodge class "c" mh's 75 & 79 neither had (converter) just start & house batterys, some things worked off Start battery the rest off house battery. 3 way Fridge had to be hooked up to 12 v make it work. any way.
coming off alternator was (2) output diode to charge both batterys.
been a long time, forgot a lot of some quirks about them. camper portion 12 volt system was mostly 2 wire system not necessary grounded to Vehicle frame.have fun.lamont/richie in Virginia.
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Old 05-21-2022, 01:31 AM   #21
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BTW, a few nice options of you decide to change coach FUSE PANEL: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rv+fuse+block&ref=nb_sb_noss
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Old 05-26-2022, 09:39 PM   #22
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There is a Vintage RV forum on this board, and you will find people who focus on it, and lots of Dodge RV people there.

Stand alone converters are known as "deck mount" and yes, any good one will do. Progressive Dynamics makes several good units for deck mount. I would avoid WFCO.

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