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Old 10-15-2017, 11:29 PM   #15
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We've stayed in places where the lows were in the high teens and highs near freezing for 4 or 5 days. No tank heaters. Heat tape on the water line, which would freeze at the metal input every night and thaw when the sun hit it or I hit it with the hair dryer. The issue we had was the dump valves freezing so we could not dump the tanks. The tanks themselves did not freeze. It takes a while to freeze 20-40 gallons of liquid.
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Old 10-15-2017, 11:50 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by youracman View Post
Wow! A 45 ft Class C with AquaHot here on the Class C forum. Amazing!
A lot of help for the OP...................... or not. But maybe he has a 45 footer too..........no info in his post or personal data to know for sure.
Sorry, I didn't realize that it was limited to Type C owners only. My only Type C was purchased new in 1997 and traded on a new 35' Type A in '98.
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:09 AM   #17
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Sorry, I didn't realize that it was limited to Type C owners only. My only Type C was purchased new in 1997 and traded on a new 35' Type A in '98.
Hmmmm Me 'neither
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:19 AM   #18
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Apparently turd popsicles are different in a class C black tank than they are in a class A black tank.
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Old 10-16-2017, 10:22 AM   #19
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Before adding tank heaters consider finding all the outside lines they will freeze and cause damage long before the tanks give you any trouble. We live in Alaska I have heaters; I have never used them fresh water and lines are inside. Here is how we handle cold temps; we winterize all outside low pt. Drains, the shower, black water flush, drain the fresh water fill line(remove the screen push the center the water will drain backward), add RV antifreeze to both grey and black tanks.
We dry camp using RV antifreeze to flush, If water is in the hot water heater I will run it, but usually dump it, to expensive to take a chance.
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Old 10-24-2017, 09:46 AM   #20
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Placing an incandescent light bulb in an enclosed space where gasses could accumulate is a violation of NFPA fire code. All electrical appliances in explosive atmospheres should be explosion proof rated, which adds about $600 to the cost.


Anyone using a light bulb should be aware that if a fire occurs and the lightbulb is at fault you likely would be on the hook from your insurance company.
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Old 10-24-2017, 10:03 AM   #21
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gases could accumulate in the interior of the coach anywhere. especially in the living area. all the holding tanks are vented thru the roof.
i try to close all the interior vents when in cold weather especially. does that mean i cant have a incandescent light bulb in my bedroom, or some other part of the coach? i've been doing this for the past 25 years.
just curious, not questioning your statement.
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Old 10-24-2017, 10:04 AM   #22
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Thanks for the information! Will have to rethink solutions.
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Old 10-25-2017, 08:46 AM   #23
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I did that with my former boat engine bay and always worried about it.

You may be fine but if there's a fire you can be sure it will be investigated by the fire inspector.

Here's a link to some info.
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