House battery charging problems/solenoid locations

[coachmanjay]

sounds like the charger part of the converter

[Sbrownstein]

Originally Posted by rvnizzo

But there is power on both sides. We can't seem to figure out the problem of why it won't click. Engage our disengage

That is the isolation solenoid. It will have house one one side and chassis on the other. Should click with the boost switch or by starting the engine.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by rvnizzo

But there is power on both sides. We can't seem to figure out the problem of why it won't click. Engage our disengage

Its because that relay needs more then two wires to work. Has it ever worked ?

If there is power on both sides its engaged, so its not why things don't work.

Did you tighten that ground cable where it bolts to the chassis ?

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by Sbrownstein

That is the isolation solenoid. It will have house one one side and chassis on the other. Should click with the boost switch or by starting the engine.

Isolation solenoid will have cables much bigger then what on that solenoid. He know wher that is.

[youracman]

Originally Posted by rvnizzo

But there is power on both sides. We can't seem to figure out the problem of why it won't click. Engage our disengage

Like most relays/solenoids, the contacts can fail in the "welded together" mode as well as the"poor contact/high resistance" mode. I have read of both on various forums.

If you remove the (small) wire(s) from the armature of the solenoid and it is still "ON" the contacts may be welded together. However, if they are welded together I would "think" the batteries should be getting charged by your converter.....if it is working. Others will chime in if my logic is wrong.

Glad you found it. I guess they really do put 'em anywhere and everywhere. lol

You're gonna get this whupped...........hang in there.

[twinboat]

Originally Posted by youracman

Like most relays/solenoids, the contacts can fail in the "welded together" mode as well as the"poor contact/high resistance" mode. I have read of both on various forums.

If you remove the (small) wire(s) from the armature of the solenoid and it is still "ON" the contacts may be welded together. However, if they are welded together I would "think" the batteries should be getting charged by your converter.....if it is working. Others will chime in if my logic is wrong.

Glad you found it. I guess they really do put 'em anywhere and everywhere. lol

You're gonna get this whupped...........hang in there.

It looks to me like a latching relay. Removing power to the small terminals will not let it open, its still latched.

To un-latch it, you need to send power to the small terminals, in reverse polarity of what latched it.

[youracman]

Originally Posted by twinboat

It looks to me like a latching relay. Removing power to the small terminals will not let it open, its still latched.

To un-latch it, you need to send power to the small terminals, in reverse polarity of what latched it.

Ooops, you're absolutely right, twinboat. As you say, if it's a latching solenoid (and it should be) and the magnet has it latched closed, it has to be powered open with a 12v pulse in reverse polarity. Time to get in there with a voltmeter and take some readings whilst cycling the salesman's switch...... plus maybe ohm out the fuse on the solenoid ....assuming it has a fuse. Could have blown the fuse the last time it was cycled "ON" I reckon.

Now that it's been been found, it should be a simple matter to troubleshoot.

Best............

[Sbrownstein]

This is getting a little weird. OP says that the boost start switch will light everything up in the coach. That has to mean that the "salesman" switch is closed since the isolation relay is upstream of the disconnect switch (in most coaches.) Maybe it is welded closed...maybe not...but it is closed. Hard to see what the solenoid in the last image is. Looks like heavy duty cables below but really lacks scale.

[rvnizzo]

one side was the shore power and that is why it lit up, it did not when we unplugged

the other side was the house battery

we learned we could either jump it or simply put both wires on one side(which is what we did)

seems to have fixed everything even the 12v lights in the house.

if this is unsafe please let me know we would end up just replacing it

but since this rv will never be stored that is what we saw as the best option

thanks again to everyone who helped

and to put out there again...sometimes the battery disconnect can be under the stove lol.

[sibe]

Originally Posted by rvnizzo

one side was the shore power and that is why it lit up, it did not when we unplugged

the other side was the house battery

we learned we could either jump it or simply put both wires on one side(which is what we did)

seems to have fixed everything even the 12v lights in the house.

if this is unsafe please let me know we would end up just replacing it

but since this rv will never be stored that is what we saw as the best option

thanks again to everyone who helped

and to put out there again...sometimes the battery disconnect can be under the stove lol.

so that relay is not flipping on.. as mentioned it is a latching,, means power to close it, reverse + - .. power to open,, it is stuck off for some reason.. it is bad.. the switch that works it, is bad, the fuse that powers the switch is bad, there is sometimes a 5am fuse on soloniod/relay itself for control circuit..

Ok you by passes it.. only issue I see is that when Rv is setting idle for a couple weeks, your batteries will be stone dead.. There are some items that draw battery down when rv is not in use, propane detecter, Frdige ( unless you turn switch to storage mode) power board on heater.. power moniors etc..

[THenne1713]

The wire connecting CONVERTER TO BATTERY is protected on EACH/ BOTH ends. On battery end (within 18-inches of battery and right beside MY battery) is usually a 30-60aX 12VDC CIRUIT BREAKER; on the CONVERTER END are (usually) REVERSE POLARITY fuses. I believe on some brand/ models of OLDER eq., you have to Unmount the fuse board, and these are mounted on the BACK of the board?

[apavlin]

I ran into a totally different case when I acquired my father's motorhome (he was too old to drive it any more). The motorhome wouldn't charge the house batteries by anything but the main engine's alternator too. I eventually found out it was a tripped AC circuit breaker for the AC input to the converter (not the AC output from the inverter). Since no AC power from the generator or shore cord was getting to the converter, it couldn't charge the coach batteries. Simple reset of the breaker (once I found where the body manufacturer hid the main AC breaker panel), and everything was fine.


I still don't know what tripped the breaker in the first place (it was already tripped when I took over ownership of the motorhome), and it has never tripped again.

[MitchMcQ]

I had a similar issue where the batteries weren't charging while plugged in. It turned out to be the BIRD.
Intellitec 0000362100 B.I.R.D Gas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721TL39Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zgyuFb0PWANTB

[Chuckge]

Check with a multi meter below 12 volts and you’ll have to use automobile battery chargers