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Old 10-19-2020, 04:52 PM   #1
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Insulating for engine heat

engine cover heat what is the best way to insulate the engine cover
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Old 10-19-2020, 05:00 PM   #2
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Quote:
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engine cover heat what is the best way to insulate the engine cover
Summit has several different insulating materials that work well.
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Old 10-19-2020, 06:11 PM   #3
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I don't know what chassis your Class C motorhome is built on, but the Ford E450 van chassis under our Class C has a cab dash air conditioning mode in which the cold air can be directed down at the cab floor. This mode keeps all the heat from the engine cover and cab floor from bothering us.

However, it took a couple of years before I discovered what air conditioning mode aimed the cold air down like this, as it wasn't obvious from how the dash air flow control knobs were labeled.
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Old 10-20-2020, 12:30 PM   #4
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We have a Jayco Redhawk on a 2018 E450 chassis. I found the engine cover to have a good quality foil face heat insulation material installed from the factory. Our heat problem was the floor, especially on the passenger side. I pulled the seats and floor mat. Almost no insulation there. I installed DEI Boom Mat over the entire floor. It provides both thermal and sound insulation. Also used DEI exhaust wrap on the right side exhaust where it runs under the passenger side cab floor. Our cab heat problem is eliminated and the interior noise is decreased, but not eliminated. A very worthwhile upgrade.

I purchased the DEI products from Summit. If you do this, you will need a special socket to remove the Ford seat bolts. I got mine on eBay.
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Old 10-20-2020, 04:28 PM   #5
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I used this on my 2006 e450 class C.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just custom cut it and glued to the instide of the doghouse.

We could tell a difference in noise and temp. I also took the door panels off and put some in the doors.
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Old 10-20-2020, 04:44 PM   #6
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I also added an air deflector to move more air through the engine area. The results are good enough I stopped with that's instead of moving on to a fan and ducts. When we park, unless winter, such as arrival, I open the hood to let the hot air out.
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:15 PM   #7
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I have been doing the same all summer.. it helps a lot when we stop for the night or any time
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Old 10-21-2020, 02:38 PM   #8
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I did some research on this relative to engine heat shields. I was surprised to see articles justifying metal reflective heat shields reflecting significant heat. I would use a dog house insulation with as thick of a metal foil on the surface that I could get.
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:29 PM   #9
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I feel for you.. Had a Super C and with all the Heat and Noise driving thru the West finely dumped it and went with a Class A Tag. Best decision i ever made. Worst... Buying a Super C :( One Expensive lesson for sure
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:41 PM   #10
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How is the heat situation with the new Godzilla engine?
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:08 PM   #11
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How did you glue the insulation inside the dog house?
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Old 10-22-2020, 05:50 AM   #12
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How did you accomplish this? What buttons and levers were pushed/pulled/flipped?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil G. View Post
I don't know what chassis your Class C motorhome is built on, but the Ford E450 van chassis under our Class C has a cab dash air conditioning mode in which the cold air can be directed down at the cab floor. This mode keeps all the heat from the engine cover and cab floor from bothering us.

However, it took a couple of years before I discovered what air conditioning mode aimed the cold air down like this, as it wasn't obvious from how the dash air flow control knobs were labeled.
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Old 10-22-2020, 10:19 AM   #13
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I think I used construction adhesive. Sorry I can't recall specifics.
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Old 10-22-2020, 12:30 PM   #14
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How did you accomplish this? What buttons and levers were pushed/pulled/flipped?
It's not obvious from the Ford E350/E450 dash heating and air conditioning controls - that's why it took me a long time to discover by pure luck how to do it.

My dash has three rotating knobs - one for setting the temperature of the air (that controls both the air heating needed or air cooling needed), one for routing of where the air comes out in the cab, and one for setting the fan speed.

I finally discovered that setting the knob for air routing to it's "MIX" position routes the air only, and at the same time, out of - the long horizontal outlets along the bottom of the windshield and out of the outlets aimed down at the floor for the driver and passenger. There is no longer any air coming out of the dash outlets mid-height that blow out right at chest height.

In hot weather to keep both the upper cab and cab floor areas cool I set the fan speed at 3 or 4, set the routing knob to MIX, and turn the temperature knob well into the air conditioning zone (blue color on my cab's knob).

It takes the fan speed set at 3 or 4, and 3-5 minutes to notice it ... but soon the whole cab area (including your feet and lower legs) will start to fill like they're being bathed in comfortably cool air ... with no cold air blasting directly on your body anywhere. We don't like the chest high A/C outlets blasting directly on us, anyway.

You can modulate the overall cool feeling using the fan speed control and temperature knob - and it works like a champ in hot weather. The Ford cab air conditioning is very powerful, and in our 24 foot Class C it can eventually get and keep the entire coach interior cool - and by using the method I describe we don't get blasted with cold air in the cab in order to keep the whole coach area cool.

It works like a champ.
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