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Old 05-06-2023, 08:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
Skip hit the nail on the head with the better breakers he showed in post #21. You can find these and a lot of other electrical goodies at https://powerwerx.com/dc-power-products.

Personally I would run new 4 gauge from the van's electrical system connection to the isolator and then 4 gauge to the house batteries.

Nowdays instead of those isolators they use solenoids like this Cole Hersee 24213 12V 200A Continuous Solenoid, but would require a feed from the van's ignition to activate it.

Charles
Yes, that's the plan. I want to try and use the current isolator * for now *
I just want things to be done right/safe, then I can update.
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Old 05-08-2023, 01:09 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Skip426 View Post
1993 Dodge van , and what looks; by the wire colors; like a DIY camper conversion .

So you can expect just about anything to be sub standard .
.
V-8 engine I suppose .
And I'll try and track down the alternator amperage .
93 was about the middle of my career at Dodge ( 75>07 ) and some of what I should be able to remember has been lost in 16 years of retirement .

The wires out of the fuse box are fine ; all protected by 15 amp fuses.
Skip, and others thanks for getting me to chase down this wiring stuff. Check out what I found

So they ran 10 awg wiring from Alt to Isolator, then the rest was 8.
The crazy part is, the battery wiring would have reached the Isolator just fine. I don't understand the 6 awg to 8 awg extension. Gross.
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Old 05-08-2023, 06:38 PM   #31
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I guess; build it fast and cheap , was more important that building it right .

Good thing your finding all this now and not on the side of the road somewhere ; or after the fire.
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Old 05-11-2023, 03:36 PM   #32
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I guess; build it fast and cheap , was more important that building it right .

Good thing your finding all this now and not on the side of the road somewhere ; or after the fire.
Looks like a lot of plumbing to repair, Oh I mean wiring! Looking at that corrosion on the alternator, I bet it was around salt water at some point.
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Old 05-11-2023, 04:25 PM   #33
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One of those terminals looks burnt. I suggest crimping new terminals on that wire.
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Old 05-11-2023, 06:04 PM   #34
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get a 50A circuit breaker

we had a 30A circuit breaker on our 2018 Solitude.
Last winter, retraction of the hydraulic slides kept stopping as well as the hydraulic jacks. It would take me 10 minutes to raise the jacks.

Grand Design provided a drop in 50A circuit breaker (they are not expensive) and I have had NO further issues. If your wiring will handle it, go with 50A. 20A does not sound sufficient. Check your wire gauge/length of course.
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Old 05-11-2023, 10:46 PM   #35
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we had a 30A circuit breaker on our 2018 Solitude.
Last winter, retraction of the hydraulic slides kept stopping as well as the hydraulic jacks. It would take me 10 minutes to raise the jacks.

Grand Design provided a drop in 50A circuit breaker (they are not expensive) and I have had NO further issues. If your wiring will handle it, go with 50A. 20A does not sound sufficient. Check your wire gauge/length of course.
Went with 4 awg, and 80 amp ( quality one ) to both batteries.
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Old 05-14-2023, 04:49 PM   #36
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Much better. I have flipped the Isolator around so that Battery 1 is for the starter battery now. I just used the Oem connection to starter battery ( 6 awg ).

Now to see if the Isolator even works.
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Old 05-14-2023, 06:12 PM   #37
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From what I remember this type of isolator was very robust ; two huge diodes and an even bigger heat sink .
The issues that led to their replacement , was size, heat produced and having to wire in a separate battery boost solenoid for emergency starts.
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