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Old 07-21-2021, 08:53 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer View Post
Using double-sided foam tape, I adhered Hoppy Levels outside near each rear tire and dead center in back. I also placed similar levels by the driver for front/back and left-right leveling.

To set the levels properly during adhesion, get a trusted level and park your rig such that the floor is level in both directions. Then stick on the levels so that they too are bubble-level. Then you are setup for quick and easy evaluations for leveling your rig.

This is the type of level I utilize. Each graduation reflects one inch which is one Lynx Leveling Block.

As you do, I can often utilize a dip or rise on a soft surface parking pad to get the rig "level enough", just by moving the motorhome around and watching the levels.
I put the same levels on the dash and side wall where I can see them from the drivers seat.

I send the DW out to place boards where needed and drive up on them.
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Old 07-21-2021, 10:27 AM   #16
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Wink Yep, that's how it's done...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer View Post
Using double-sided foam tape, I adhered Hoppy Levels outside near each rear tire and dead center in back. I also placed similar levels by the driver for front/back and left-right leveling.

To set the levels properly during adhesion, get a trusted level and park your rig such that the floor is level in both directions. Then stick on the levels so that they too are bubble-level. Then you are setup for quick and easy evaluations for leveling your rig.

This is the type of level I utilize. Each graduation reflects one inch which is one Lynx Leveling Block.

As you do, I can often utilize a dip or rise on a soft surface parking pad to get the rig "level enough", just by moving the motorhome around and watching the levels.

Ron once again we agree... I have two levels like yours the outside of the coach so I can check level while adding/deleting the Leggo blocks. As noted you can usually tell pretty well how you are sitting when parking the coach.

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Old 07-21-2021, 10:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by twinboat View Post
I put the same levels on the dash and side wall where I can see them from the drivers seat.

I send the DW out to place boards where needed and drive up on them.
Yes, ours has a cheap Winnebago installed adjustable bubble level mounted next to the driver's seat. Didn't take long at all for me to get used to reading it to know which corners and how much jacking was needed to get things leveled. Unless a site is really unlevel and requires me to drive up on linx levelers or wood, the leveling get's done before leaving the driver's seat.

It's one of those KISS techniques that works perfectly fine yet we still see people overthinking the process and fretting over how to level their rig.
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Old 07-21-2021, 11:28 AM   #18
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If you look close, you can see one Hoppy Level below the beltline, to the upper-left of the rear tire. Another one is centered just above the license plate.

I find all 5 levels (3 outside and two inside by the driver) extremely helpful to quickly determine the quantity of Lynx blocks needed and where to place them.

"Yes" Captain Steve
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Unread Yesterday, 05:41 AM   #19
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I have those on our 2018 Coachmen Leprechaun 319mb and love them. Ours were factory installed.
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Unread Yesterday, 07:25 AM   #20
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Since the OP was interested in "auto levelers", and hasn't been back to comment in over a week since the original question was asked, we might have another abandoned thread here. Hope he got some useful input.

If I'm going to level my coach, particularly in adverse weather, I think auto-levelers are the only option for me. I spent a fortune on my motorhome, and a few thousand more for convenience and simplicity is just part of the cost of doing business. If they fail, you fix them, that's also part of the game, like everything else. I've held off on adding auto-levelers because I don't have a really pressing need to add them, except to make moving around inside the coach a little easier ergonomically. I have a compressor fridge and don't need it to be perfectly level to operate. The weight was a concern, but a net increase of 50lbs is acceptable, after installing the Big Foot system, and removing the factory powered landing gear rear stabilizers.
Never heard of anyone refusing to install them on older coaches, but I guess it could happen. The OP's coach is newer (2019), so I doubt he'd have a problem.
The lego blocks are a popular choice based on responses to date. Lego blocks are certainly a less expensive option, but they're manual, might need to set them up in bad weather, and require storage space when not in use, which can be at a premium on some coaches (mine for sure). As far as torquing the frame, you can do that just entering or exiting a parking lot or gas station, or driving up onto any obstacle, so that's possible, in any regular driving situation. It's never been a concern for me.
Each to his own/personal preference?
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Unread Today, 04:56 AM   #21
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leveler

As I stated in original post, Thank you for your input.
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Unread Today, 07:24 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Winterbagoal View Post
If I'm going to level my coach, particularly in adverse weather, I think auto-levelers are the only option for me. I spent a fortune on my motorhome, and a few thousand more for convenience and simplicity is just part of the cost of doing business. If they fail, you fix them, that's also part of the game, like everything else. I've held off on adding auto-levelers because I don't have a really pressing need to add them, except to make moving around inside the coach a little easier ergonomically. I have a compressor fridge and don't need it to be perfectly level to operate. The weight was a concern, but a net increase of 50lbs is acceptable, after installing the Big Foot system, and removing the factory powered landing gear rear stabilizers.
Never heard of anyone refusing to install them on older coaches, but I guess it could happen. The OP's coach is newer (2019), so I doubt he'd have a problem.
The Lego blocks are a popular choice based on responses to date. Lego blocks are certainly a less expensive option, but they're manual, might need to set them up in bad weather, and require storage space when not in use, which can be at a premium on some coaches (mine for sure). As far as torqueing the frame, you can do that just entering or exiting a parking lot or gas station, or driving up onto any obstacle, so that's possible, in any regular driving situation. It's never been a concern for me.
You logic is hard to dispute.

But.....

I would like to specifically argue your point on frame twisting. The frame will twist much more with high tech hydraulic or electric leveling jacks, than when driving over a severe condition like the example of a gas station, because the suspension compensates for the situation.

Lifting one rear corner of the chassis (especially the longest rigs with long-stretched wheel bases) you run the risk of applying serious stress on the chassis frame and worse yet, the house itself.

Class A's are less at risk than class Cs because their frames are so much stronger, less prone to twisting.
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