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Old 07-20-2021, 05:38 AM   #1
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Leveling ideas

I do not have auto levelers . With that said what are some of the easiest to use that are good? What is average cost for auto ones to be in stalled? Thank you
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Old 07-20-2021, 05:52 AM   #2
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Easiest to use that are good would be 2x12s cut to the right length.
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Old 07-20-2021, 05:59 AM   #3
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In our old class C Jayco Melbourne we used the orange inter-locking blocks (forget the brand name) to drive onto to level. They are light weight and easy to store. We still have them five years later and use them under our leveling jacks on our class A. Adding hydraulic levelers to a class C coats appropriately $5,000.
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Old 07-20-2021, 06:02 AM   #4
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In our old class C Jayco Melbourne we used the orange inter-locking blocks (forget the brand name) to drive onto to level. They are light weight and easy to store. We still have them five years later and use them under our leveling jacks on our class A. Adding hydraulic levelers to a class C coats appropriately $5,000.
For $5000 you can buy 4 10 ton Harbor Freight bottle jacks and some 2/8 treated lumber, and still have money left over.
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Old 07-20-2021, 07:45 AM   #5
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I'm considering Bigfoot auto-levelers. Cost around $3500 + $800 installation. Once in a while they'll have a promo/discounted installation.
Bit of a drive for you from AZ? They're located in White Pigeon, MI.
The Official Website for Bigfoot© Hydraulic Leveling Systems
I believe they have kits that you can DIY, if you're handy with tools.
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Old 07-20-2021, 09:44 AM   #6
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In our old class C Jayco Melbourne we used the orange inter-locking blocks (forget the brand name) to drive onto to level. They are light weight and easy to store. We still have them five years later and use them under our leveling jacks on our class A.
They are called LYNX LEVELERS. I use them and like them. They are very light weight, store easy, and the wheel chocks & top caps are great compliments.

I carry 4 bags of Lynx Levelers that hold everything I need. Our rig is lighter than most so when I run short on blocks which is rare, I will drive up on only one rear tire. It is not recommended, but like I say, the rig is not that heavy and I am not driving, just sitting and well supported on top caps.

An auto-leveling system is very costly and some manufactures won't provide a warranty if installed on an older rig. Some refuse to install them on anything but new or almost new rigs.

Auto levelers used aggressively may twist the body a tad bit which might split a seam in the house, especially on the longest rigs.

Some auto levelers for class C's are more limited. You can't raise them but a few extra inches, not enough to lift a tire up off the ground. That may be by design to avoid twisting the frame and damaging the house. These limited systems require blocks under them to gain more height if your parking pad is far off level.

Auto levelers require regular maintenance to be trouble-free. I read many posts, people having trouble with them of one kind or another, and not necessarily due to a lack of maintenance. Hydraulic or electric, each have their own troubles.

I am glad I didn't get them when ordering our rig new back in 2007 because I wonder if 14 years later, I would have regrets.

BUT.....There is a lot to say about the convenience of pushing buttons instead of crawling around with blocks of sorts, especially in the dark and/or in the rain. You have to decide what trade-offs you are willing to make.
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Old 07-20-2021, 09:57 AM   #7
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For $5000 you can buy 4 10 ton Harbor Freight bottle jacks and some 2/8 treated lumber, and still have money left over.
Yes, but then you need a lot of jumping from jack to jack, or 2 people to jack at one time.

If you try to go to high on one corner, you twist the chassis.
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Old 07-20-2021, 10:22 AM   #8
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We just had the Bigfoot Auto Levelers installed on our 28Z. We still have the Legos and pieces of 2X8's in the back if needed.

Works great. Went out last weekend. I put the 2X8's under it to keep from sinking in the soft ground. Grabbed a beer, hit a button and in about a minute, it was level.
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Old 07-20-2021, 11:54 AM   #9
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I don't have auto leveling on our rig, as it would add too much weight for my tastes. I use a Level Mate Pro to tell me exactly how much to raise each wheel, then stack the yellow Camco blocks accordingly. It's worked very well for me. I've had over 10" under a tire or two more than a couple of times, with no issues. I usually end up within one inch of perfectly level.
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Old 07-20-2021, 12:08 PM   #10
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...what are some of the easiest to use that are good?
HERE is what I use. 16" - 2x10 & 16" - 4x4. I carry 4 sets. About $10.

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Old 07-20-2021, 12:23 PM   #11
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Cool Yellow Leggo's...

Mine are now about 12 years old and yes they are getting a little ragged. I plan on replacing them with another 10 pack in a nice nylon zippered case for about $36. They are easy to set and I cannot remember the last time I had to go higher than 2 blocks per wheel.

I have a small bubble level that sits on the center console that confirms what I can feel when we pull into a site. A set of auto levelers will put a serious dent in your payload and the longer your C the less you have to begin with. Levelers are about as problematic as slides and electric steps and not cheap to buy/install.

IMHO: Any Class C under 27' simply does not need them.

As always... opinions and YMMV.

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Old 07-20-2021, 01:21 PM   #12
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My coach jacks were none functional so the dealer got Big Foot to add auto jacks.

I am more than happy with them, big improvement over the manual jacks on our last coach.
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Old 07-20-2021, 03:16 PM   #13
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HERE is what I use. 16" - 2x10 & 16" - 4x4. I carry 4 sets. About $10.

Have you priced lumber lately?
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Old 07-21-2021, 06:25 AM   #14
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I have a small bubble level that sits on the center console that confirms what I can feel when we pull into a site.
Using double-sided foam tape, I adhered Hoppy Levels outside near each rear tire and dead center in back. I also placed similar levels by the driver for front/back and left-right leveling.

To set the levels properly during adhesion, get a trusted level and park your rig such that the floor is level in both directions. Then stick on the levels so that they too are bubble-level. Then you are setup for quick and easy evaluations for leveling your rig.

This is the type of level I utilize. Each graduation reflects one inch which is one Lynx Leveling Block.

As you do, I can often utilize a dip or rise on a soft surface parking pad to get the rig "level enough", just by moving the motorhome around and watching the levels.
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