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10-31-2020, 10:49 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe
Posts: 4,462
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I carry a set of plastic ramps. Maybe overkill, but some of the GC's we have been to need up to 5-6 inches.
Just need room to store them.
I have wood pads also, but I just use them under the jack pads.
We didn't have jacks on the last rig, so I am familier with using blocks.
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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10-31-2020, 11:08 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Wold
well since you glued them they will be much less likely to split. I had the same idea about sandwiching them in plywood, also glued, if you see signs of splittage. That would probably gain you a lot service time out of them. But my guess is they are pretty sturdy as is.
You could also nail some rope handles on the ends with rome’s or fence wire stables to make them easier to pull out. I like that storage shelf - very handy.
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Yeah I was thinking of putting a rope handle on the end, but they're actually pretty easy to grab, and once I get them halfway out I have the metal handle to grab.
I was just comparing them to my Lynx levelers, and they come out pretty close to the same height at each of the three levels right now. If I add plywood to the bottom the middle level will match pretty close but the other two are going to be off. This is if I use them on the rear duals, I'll put a stack of the Lynx levelers for the inside tire.
So I'm rethinking the plywood thing, maybe I'll go with a thinner plywood. I don't think it would matter much if each tire support was maybe a half inch different height. But I do think plywood bottoms would especially help stop the first level from cracking.
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10-31-2020, 11:45 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 424
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I built some with 2x10s and have used them for about 3 years now. I didn’t nail or screw them together though. I left all separate and stack only what I need to level coach. I drilled pilot holes in each set so I could stack them and put a pins in them to lock them together as needed. Works very well.
__________________
2002 American Eagle 40M
ISL400 / Spartan MM
2003 Jeep Liberty/2019 Jeep Trailhawk
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10-31-2020, 12:02 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Phoenix, Oregon
Posts: 2,208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jthigh
I built some with 2x10s and have used them for about 3 years now. I didn’t nail or screw them together though. I left all separate and stack only what I need to level coach. I drilled pilot holes in each set so I could stack them and put a pins in them to lock them together as needed. Works very well.
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That's basically what I did using 2X6s with TCs for about 40 years, except I wasn't smart enough to to use pilot holes and pins (dowels?) to keep them from sliding on the front wheels. When that happened a few times I would put the truck in 4wd and it would climb right up on them. Then we had the Flair without 4wd and it was a pain sometimes. Now we're back to a TC and I'll have to make some more blocks for it, but now I'll have a solution for the blocks sliding when stacked, thanks.
Steve
__________________
1994 30' Monaco Dynasty, 5.9 230 HP Cummins, MD 3060, 1992 Geo Tracker.
1996 Dodge Cummins 2500 with 1996 Lance 945 camper
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10-31-2020, 12:19 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 25,576
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I took 3/4" plywood, cut into 8"X24" peices and doubled them up with screws. Gives me an inch and a half lift per board. Plywood doesn't split like lumber.
I stair stack them, 90°s to the rear tires, and drive up. 24" is long enough that both tires ride up on them.
Having them seperate makes them easy to use and store, and I have gone as high as 4 boards ( 6 inchs ) high.
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10-31-2020, 12:50 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jthigh
I built some with 2x10s and have used them for about 3 years now. I didn’t nail or screw them together though. I left all separate and stack only what I need to level coach. I drilled pilot holes in each set so I could stack them and put a pins in them to lock them together as needed. Works very well.
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That's a great idea using pins like that. I just decided to do it this way since I have a good place to store them.
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10-31-2020, 01:32 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: MINNESOTA
Posts: 263
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You're on the right track, I'm sure you'll get it figured out and they'll work great! Love that storage spot that's pretty sweet!!
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10-31-2020, 02:57 PM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nbluesky
You're on the right track, I'm sure you'll get it figured out and they'll work great! Love that storage spot that's pretty sweet!!
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Glued and screwed some half inch plywood on there, I think these are going to last okay.
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10-31-2020, 04:35 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Newmar Owners Club Ford Super Duty Owner Freightliner Owners Club Retired Fire Service RVer's
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Rosemary Farm, Northern Ca
Posts: 3,380
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i think they will.  Now they need a paint job.
__________________
Actively pursuing a solution/resolution to the SCR/DEF issue
Current Coach: MoCa (Mobile Cabin) 2016 Ventana 3427
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10-31-2020, 05:20 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R.Wold
i think they will.  Now they need a paint job. 
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Nah, no paint. Just spraying them with a few coats of clear sealer, let the glue dry up well, then they're ready to roll.
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10-31-2020, 07:53 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Thor Owners Club KZ RV Club
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Central, Arkansas
Posts: 306
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tap4154
Yeah I was thinking of putting a rope handle on the end, but they're actually pretty easy to grab, and once I get them halfway out I have the metal handle to grab.
I was just comparing them to my Lynx levelers, and they come out pretty close to the same height at each of the three levels right now. If I add plywood to the bottom the middle level will match pretty close but the other two are going to be off. This is if I use them on the rear duals, I'll put a stack of the Lynx levelers for the inside tire.
So I'm rethinking the plywood thing, maybe I'll go with a thinner plywood. I don't think it would matter much if each tire support was maybe a half inch different height. But I do think plywood bottoms would especially help stop the first level from cracking.
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Do you know what the weight difference is between the plastic blocks vs the ramps you built?
They look great but I’d be concerned about carrying the extra weigh due to many class C’s being close to their GVWR without all the stuff a typical RV’r brings along.
__________________
2018 Thor Freedom Elite 30 FE
2019 GMC Canyon Denali (current toad)
2004 Jeep Liberty (retired Toad)
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10-31-2020, 08:12 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Monaco Owners Club Freightliner Owners Club Holiday Rambler Owners Club
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Ohio
Posts: 299
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Very nice for sharing. I have 2 sets a litle diffrent but the same idea. I like your design a litle better.
I built them primary for the rear axle on my MH when the rear is low and leveling would take the tires off the ground. The two sets allow for blocks under all 4 of the rear tires. I also used them on the front, under the Jack's on soft soil. And many other ways
__________________
Art & Joyce
Thornville, OH
Holiday Rambler Endevor
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10-31-2020, 08:29 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Kamloops, BC, 60 miles from the Center of the Universe
Posts: 4,462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandKO
Do you know what the weight difference is between the plastic blocks vs the ramps you built?
They look great but I’d be concerned about carrying the extra weigh due to many class C’s being close to their GVWR without all the stuff a typical RV’r brings along.
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I carry a set of these ramps. !6,000 pound rating, and weigh 17 pounds. They will lift up to 6 1/2 inches.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/deta...ps/A-p8607582e
__________________
Happy Glamping, Norman & Elna. 2008 Winnebago Adventurer 38J, W24, dozens of small thirsty ponies. Retired after 40 years wrenching on trucks! 2010 Ford Ranger toad with bicycles or KLR 650 in the back. Easy to spot an RVer, they always walk around with a screwdriver or wrench in one hand!
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10-31-2020, 08:50 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandKO
Do you know what the weight difference is between the plastic blocks vs the ramps you built?
They look great but I’d be concerned about carrying the extra weigh due to many class C’s being close to their GVWR without all the stuff a typical RV’r brings along.
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I'm carrying the lego blocks too, but I travel light and I'm usually alone anyway. Also where I store them is right behind the passenger door, so the weight is forward.
Just weighed them and they're 27 pounds each. I lost about 30 lb in the past year, so we're good 😎
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