Community Forums

chs · 10-19-2021, 03:52 AM

Has anyone cut out a NEW hole and installed a NEW window.
I have the 28Z, Class C and it does not have a rear window.
Wanting to install one like this. 12 high X 42 wide.
Rear dimensions behind bed are 30 high X 60 wide, so plenty of room.
I looked at a few of the Thor Class C floor plans and some come with a rear window (much larger also) I would think that the rear framing is the same for consistency in construction. One that would allow a rear window or not.
I emailed Thor to hopefully get a construction blueprint of the rear wall.
Any input would be helpful.

Jim_HiTek · 10-19-2021, 12:39 PM

You might live near an RV salvage yard where you could go and find an older Class C with a window you could salvage. I've seen lots of out of the way junk yards with lots of RVs sitting there rusting away in my travels over 17 years of full timing.

Here's a link to a list of salvage yards...but as I said, sometimes junk yards have RVs too. Outside of small towns in the mid west is a great place to search.

Opps, just read your post again. You stressed NEW window. Yeah, have no experience with adding one. In my Class A Bounder, it came with a rear window and it always poured cold air on my head when in bed during cold spells, though sometimes that was refreshing. The Winnebago I have now, has a wide gap (9" or so) between the rear bedroom wall and the rear end cap for central air ducting so wouldn't work in mine.

Soon as I saw your question though I thought, hey, why not a color camera hooked up to a 35" LCD TV on the bedroom wall? Hey, yeah, that would be cool.

I know, not what you're looking for.

chs · 10-19-2021, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

You might live near an RV salvage yard where you could go and find an older Class C with a window you could salvage. I've seen lots of out of the way junk yards with lots of RVs sitting there rusting away in my travels over 17 years of full timing.

Here's a link to a list of salvage yards...but as I said, sometimes junk yards have RVs too. Outside of small towns in the mid west is a great place to search.

Opps, just read your post again. You stressed NEW window. Yeah, have no experience with adding one. In my Class A Bounder, it came with a rear window and it always poured cold air on my head when in bed during cold spells, though sometimes that was refreshing. The Winnebago I have now, has a wide gap (9" or so) between the rear bedroom wall and the rear end cap for central air ducting so wouldn't work in mine.

Soon as I saw your question though I thought, hey, why not a color camera hooked up to a 35" LCD TV on the bedroom wall? Hey, yeah, that would be cool.

I know, not what you're looking for.

I do not like not having a rear window. Among other reasons, If I pull over on a highway, it freaks me out not being able to see behind me.
They sent me this blueprint today. Now I just need to find out the wall thickness.

Jim_HiTek · 10-19-2021, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chs

I do not like not having a rear window. Among other reasons, If I pull over on a highway, it freaks me out not being able to see behind me.
They sent me this blueprint today. Now I just need to find out the wall thickness.

I can understand that. I have the rear view camera that works better in the dark than my eyes do so I'm happy with that.

I'd guess your wall thickness at between 1.5" and 2.0" depending on the weatherization pack you have. You can pull an outlet and measure it too.

Nice of them to frame it in for you. Looks like the window is an option so they might still have some in stock. But they'd be very spendy, you can be sure of that. What I do is find the manufacturers replacement price, then with their own p/n, search the internet for a replacement. Often it'll pop up at half their price, sometimes someone is parting out a similar rig. Also good to have their p/n to check with salvage yards.

chs · 10-21-2021, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim_HiTek

I can understand that. I have the rear view camera that works better in the dark than my eyes do so I'm happy with that.

I'd guess your wall thickness at between 1.5" and 2.0" depending on the weatherization pack you have. You can pull an outlet and measure it too.

Nice of them to frame it in for you. Looks like the window is an option so they might still have some in stock. But they'd be very spendy, you can be sure of that. What I do is find the manufacturers replacement price, then with their own p/n, search the internet for a replacement. Often it'll pop up at half their price, sometimes someone is parting out a similar rig. Also good to have their p/n to check with salvage yards.

The actual window I am installing is much smaller that the opening they have.
Mine will be 42 wide X 12 high. It should be no problem since the wall is packed with hard board styrofoam. The window compresses between the inside and out.
The reason it cannot be larger is due to the back wall having cabinets above the bed and closets on the sides of the bed. Also we want it above the Pillow area. The actual dimensions are 30 high (bed to cabinet) X 61 wide (closet to closet)
I'm guessing they use the same rear construction plan for all units, whether a window is installed or not.

Also I used a micrometer to measure the wall going through the basement opening in the rear and it measures 1-1/2 inches. Thor said it is (estimated) to be 2-1/4 inches

TXiceman · 10-21-2021, 08:49 AM

My concern would be structural integrity of the wall after cutting in your hole. Then yo have the issue if ant wiring or such that was run in the wall.

Ken

tap4154 · 10-21-2021, 08:54 AM

I think that's a great idea. A window that size would work well above my bed backboard. I've also thought about putting two 12-inch portholes instead of a window. That would leave the back wall more structurally sound, and maybe cause less of a draft.

chs · 10-21-2021, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TXiceman

My concern would be structural integrity of the wall after cutting in your hole. Then yo have the issue if ant wiring or such that was run in the wall.

Ken

The wall already has a square structural frame just over the size of the window which should take away any structural issues. It would not effect the surrounding wall beyond that area.