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Old 11-01-2020, 04:38 PM   #29
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36VSB

I also have one on order hoping fit April delivery . Had several C class old to later models , 2 5rs , I’m hoping the Renegade 36VSB drives like those who have them say as I wasn’t able to test drive one !
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Old 11-01-2020, 05:11 PM   #30
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How about Air Tabs? I have been reading about them. They are little plastic flumes you glue to the front and rear edges to smooth the transition of air (turbulence) towards and away from the vehicle.
I have never seen them discussed here.....
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Old 11-01-2020, 05:43 PM   #31
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If you are looking for the best quality super C's on the market, you should be looking Renegade, Newmar and Showhauler. You get what you pay for as usual....
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Old 11-01-2020, 06:49 PM   #32
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Rear track bar helped my gas Bounder 34J more than anything else on sway
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Old 11-01-2020, 07:16 PM   #33
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Sway

Quote:
Originally Posted by amstier View Post
I have a 2020 Jayco Greyhawk 27u that I have done every upgrade to make the handling better. I am considering going super c, but I am looking for recommendations on ones that handle good. No sway etc. I have seen posting that some people have the same problem with the supers too.


Please send me the right one .............
I have a 31 g Winnie 450 super duty with Firestone riderite air bags. This is number 8 motor home . It also is the best handling one I have had. TIRE PRESSURE I find is a big thing in how they handle. I inflate to the motor home manufactur specks.
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Old 11-01-2020, 08:02 PM   #34
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I second speeding in a large Motorhome is insane as it gets harder to control I think if I recall correctly I’m up to 70 mph after a few hours behind the wheel again that might be reduced to 65 with my new Jeep in tow my last toad a smartcar wasn’t noticeable back there I had to turn on the backup camera to check on it. When I got the Jeep it was all over the road my first trip to las cruces now I. Driving one handed a lot of the time and it’s as smooth as silk I think it was two things me getting comfortable driving it and everything wearing in and settling. I could be wrong but as I got confidence my top speed increases my truck I would be ok doing 90-100 for short stretches but nothing else do I have that much confidence in.
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Old 11-02-2020, 04:38 AM   #35
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[QUOTE=Ron Dittmer;5498564I can't blame Ford or Phoenix for the challenge in getting the rig right for me. Motor homes are what they are, each with it's own character.[/QUOTE]

You are much more forgiving than I am. I agree that Ford isn’t to blame because they have no way of knowing what the coach builder will ultimately do with the chassis. On the other hand, the coach builders know exactly what they are making and have no excuse for the poor handling of their products. None.
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:01 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mastertech1 View Post
I also have one on order hoping fit April delivery . Had several C class old to later models , 2 5rs , I’m hoping the Renegade 36VSB drives like those who have them say as I wasn’t able to test drive one !
Mine arrives in April as well. Feel free to send me a private message with any questions.
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Old 11-02-2020, 05:26 AM   #37
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Some coaches have less sway, but you're NOT going to find one with no sway at all.

In my day job I drive a semi. One load I carried this summer had me routed along the south end of Lake Michigan on a day when the winds were whipping through quite powerfully from the lake towards the south. I was loaded near my limit and was just shy of my max GCWR of 80,000 lbs. There were times I was down to about 40 mph out of fear the rig was going to get blown on its side.

Earlier this summer, I drove through Chicagoland and saw a line of loaded semis laying on their sides. They had been blown over by powerful straight-line winds.

Our coach is a 1974 GMC bus conversion which is usually rock solid on the road. One day last year coming back from central Illinois we had to pull into a truck stop while a storm passed over. It was starting to push us into the next lane.

If you have air suspension it is a careful balance between comfort and handling. Make the suspension too stiff to improve handling and the ride becomes harsh. Soften the ride too much and handling can become gnarly.

My point? All rigs will have some sway, and when it gets too much to handle it's time to either slow down or pull off the road. Some improvement can be had by buying a heavier rig or having modifications made, but all rigs will have some sway.
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Old 11-02-2020, 06:17 AM   #38
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I added the sway bars to my previous coach and had JetAir Suspension which compensated for constant cross winds quite well despite being on a P30 chassis however I was considering taking off the Roadmaster sway bar and putting the original back since even though it reduced sway in general it telegraphed every change in roadway pitch too severely and had crossed over to replacing one issue with another.

Wandering is usually alignment, tire pressure and loading. If your tire pressures are either too high or too low it can wander and if your loaded heavy in the back and light in the front that will make the wandering even worse. You really shouldn't try to correct a bad alignment, unbalanced loading or improper tire pressures by adding components.

A lot depends on what you consider too much sway too. Its a 11/12 foot high box with the driver sitting several feet above the road instead of several inches above the road so even if your coach sways exactly the same amount as the family car its is going to appear like its swaying much, much more then it actually is since basically you've gone from sitting at the water line to being in the crows nest.

I just drive mine like the bread truck the chassis is based upon and slow down to match road conditions now. Yes sitting high you do notice the sway more however that does not mean there actually is excessive sway only that sitting high as the laws of physics dictate your going to feel it in a more noticeable manner.
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Old 11-02-2020, 09:06 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amstier View Post
I have a 2020 Jayco Greyhawk 27u that I have done every upgrade to make the handling better. I am considering going super c, but I am looking for recommendations on ones that handle good. No sway etc. I have seen posting that some people have the same problem with the supers too.


Please send me the right one .............
To get the wheelbase-to-length ratio of a motor home, simply divide the wheelbase by the length of the vehicle. According to RVCG, under 51% is extremely dangerous; 51% to 54% is dangerous under many road condition and not adequate for general safety; 55% to 56% is marginal; 57% and over is usually steady on the road under most conditions. The higher the wheelbase-to-length ratio the safer it gets.
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Old 11-02-2020, 09:09 AM   #40
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Tire Load Range

Our 1st RV was a used Pace Arrow. The previous owner had put every upgrade imaginable on the chassis. It was "all over the road" in gusty wind or whenever we were passed by a semi. Truly a chore to drive.
Three tire had build dates just b4 the rig was assembled with Load Range F (I think). The other 3 had tire build dates a few months after the rig's build date and were Load Range G.
All 6 were replaced with Mich Load Range H. Going to a higher LR corrected all of the sway, roll and pushing over/sucking back issues. Essentially no change in the harshness of the ride.
Previously I had a full sized van with the same handling issues - changing from LR C to LR D took care of the issues.
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Old 11-02-2020, 11:55 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer View Post
Weight "distribution" with consideration to length and wheel base is a science project all it's own. My own evaluation of our 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350 is illustrated here. It is built on a 2007 E350 with a 158" wheel base and an over-all length of 23'-8". A quick observation shows that when the fresh water tank is full (as we always travel so), there is a lot of weight resting behind the rear axle. The teeter-totter effect lightens the front axle which negatively effects handling.

Fortunately I was able to compensate with suspension upgrades and changes to the front coil springs installing lower-rated ones. Today the rig handles extremely well, is comfortable to drive and to ride as a passenger. I can't blame Ford or Phoenix for the challenge in getting the rig right for me. Motor homes are what they are, each with it's own character.
I think that weight distribution, described above, may be more significant than the above wheelbase to length ratio of over 55. My 2007 Town and Country Sport Plus is on the exact same chassis, and with the identical cab-over configuration - but with a wheelbase of 139" and an overall length of 22'-7". This yields a ratio of 51.2, however, my water tank is forward of the rear axle. My refrigerator, however, is located behind the rear axle, and my A/C is located directly over the axle. I think that the cab-over configuration is also significant - as opposed to those class C units with a cab-over bed. I'm a long-time RV'r and, based on my personal experience, the Town and Country handles very well, with little to no sway from passing trucks or crosswinds.
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Old 11-02-2020, 12:10 PM   #42
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Mine doesn't sway but it's not your "normal" rig either. Country Coach built DynoMax semi-monocoque chassis to which I had HWH add their Active Air suspension controls. Stable to begin with and now even more so.
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