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Old 10-24-2020, 11:59 AM   #1
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No sway motorhomes

I have a 2020 Jayco Greyhawk 27u that I have done every upgrade to make the handling better. I am considering going super c, but I am looking for recommendations on ones that handle good. No sway etc. I have seen posting that some people have the same problem with the supers too.


Please send me the right one .............
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Old 10-24-2020, 12:28 PM   #2
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Sway? Only sway I've experienced was parked on side of road for a quick bio break.
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Old 10-24-2020, 12:37 PM   #3
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Tag axle makes a huge difference but only available on larger units.
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Old 10-24-2020, 03:05 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amstier View Post
I have a 2020 Jayco Greyhawk 27u that I have done every upgrade to make the handling better. I am considering going super c, but I am looking for recommendations on ones that handle good. No sway etc. I have seen posting that some people have the same problem with the supers too.


Please send me the right one .............
OK, what do you define as "every upgrade to make the handling better" ?

What chassis is it on?

Your definition of sway?

Charles
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Old 10-24-2020, 03:47 PM   #5
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Ok, read thru your other thread, You said you had front end "canter" adjusted. Are you referring to CASTER? or CAMBER?

CASTER is very important on an E series chassis like a motorhome. MANY front end shops do not realize that they should increase the caster to as much as possible, +4.5 to +5.5 by using aftermarket bushings made by one of several companies. They will simply tell you its "within specs" which is for a intown delivery truck configuration. (about +2.5).

Look at the alignment print out they provided. If they don't have at least +4.5 of CASTER, then you need to have that done. They will probably need to order in the special bushings made by MOOG or others, and don't take less for an answer, it can be done. Its beat to death on here all the time, and most people come back and rave about the difference it made. I've seen it on these forums for the past 5 years that I have been reading them.

Extreme caster makes any vehicle more stable and wanting to keep going straight ahead. For the average car, you would not want that much, too hard to maneuver in town, but for a motorhome, you want all you can get to keep it straight down the highway.

Edit: to add to this even more........ My Winnebago View on the Sprinter chassis did great at 63 to 64 mph. Get it to 65 or 66 and the fuel mileage went way down, and the engine fan cycled much more often. I now have a travel trailer, and this too, I am not comfortable towing over 65. To try to do 70 or 80 in a huge MH or truck and travel trailer is, well, crazy in my opinion. I do drive conservatively, but I try to "become one" with the vehicle and get a feel for what IT is comfortable doing speed wise. Probably has something to do with being a mechanic all my life (aircraft professionally and personally, cars and trucks and tractors personally, never professionally).

Additional Edit: If you have not, add a REAR anti-sway bar, either a Roadmaster or Helwig. I actually prefer the Roadmaster products but either one will make a marked difference in "wobbling" of the coach when blasted by Semis. It may already have a rear anti sway bar, but again, Ford is making the chassis primarily for in town delivery trucks, so they are not top heavy like a motorhome, so you want more than whatever the factory installed to control all that crap everyone packs in the overhead cabinets, and the heavy A/C unit on the roof, and the wind in Nebraska blowing on the side of that huge billboard you are driving.

https://fitmaster.roadmasterinc.com/...vehicle_type=8

Charles
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Old 10-24-2020, 04:38 PM   #6
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A rear Trac Bar also helps a lot. Our C is very happy at 62 mph. I also would rather drive back roads over interstates. One thing to realise. Interstate highways have ruts from the tractor trailers and this will cause some handling problems if you don't run in the ruts.
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Old 10-24-2020, 04:42 PM   #7
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If you decide to drive a house it will lean in the corners, rock in the wind and do other things you don't experience in your car.

You might find one that is better but you won't find one that is immune to these issues.

I comes with the territory you just have to decide what you can tolerate.
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:01 PM   #8
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If you don't want sway, bolt the axle to the chassis. That will make the ride terrible but it won't sway.

Otherwise, the springs are going to need to move. That's where the tradeoff of movement and stability come into play.

Everything added to limit movement will make the ride harsher.
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:05 PM   #9
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I did sumo spring front and rear, changed the front sway bar with helwig, changed the steer stabilizer, put shursteer track bar, change to bilstien shocks, it came with j-ride which suppose to have helwing swap bar, the caster was set to 4.5.

I found that Helwig makes a second additional sway bar for the rear, I '' try that next. But I am ready to try another rig, but I want to make sure that I wouldn't have to do that if I go super c.


Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
Ok, read thru your other thread, You said you had front end "canter" adjusted. Are you referring to CASTER? or CAMBER?

CASTER is very important on an E series chassis like a motorhome. MANY front end shops do not realize that they should increase the caster to as much as possible, +4.5 to +5.5 by using aftermarket bushings made by one of several companies. They will simply tell you its "within specs" which is for a intown delivery truck configuration. (about +2.5).

Look at the alignment print out they provided. If they don't have at least +4.5 of CASTER, then you need to have that done. They will probably need to order in the special bushings made by MOOG or others, and don't take less for an answer, it can be done. Its beat to death on here all the time, and most people come back and rave about the difference it made. I've seen it on these forums for the past 5 years that I have been reading them.

Extreme caster makes any vehicle more stable and wanting to keep going straight ahead. For the average car, you would not want that much, too hard to maneuver in town, but for a motorhome, you want all you can get to keep it straight down the highway.

Edit: to add to this even more........ My Winnebago View on the Sprinter chassis did great at 63 to 64 mph. Get it to 65 or 66 and the fuel mileage went way down, and the engine fan cycled much more often. I now have a travel trailer, and this too, I am not comfortable towing over 65. To try to do 70 or 80 in a huge MH or truck and travel trailer is, well, crazy in my opinion. I do drive conservatively, but I try to "become one" with the vehicle and get a feel for what IT is comfortable doing speed wise. Probably has something to do with being a mechanic all my life (aircraft professionally and personally, cars and trucks and tractors personally, never professionally).

Additional Edit: If you have not, add a REAR anti-sway bar, either a Roadmaster or Helwig. I actually prefer the Roadmaster products but either one will make a marked difference in "wobbling" of the coach when blasted by Semis. It may already have a rear anti sway bar, but again, Ford is making the chassis primarily for in town delivery trucks, so they are not top heavy like a motorhome, so you want more than whatever the factory installed to control all that crap everyone packs in the overhead cabinets, and the heavy A/C unit on the roof, and the wind in Nebraska blowing on the side of that huge billboard you are driving.

https://fitmaster.roadmasterinc.com/...vehicle_type=8

Charles
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:08 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesinGA View Post
OK, what do you define as "every upgrade to make the handling better" ?

What chassis is it on?

Your definition of sway?

Charles
E450,
I list what I did below, getting passed by a semi and not having to grip the wheel with two hands and raise my heart rate!!!!
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:12 PM   #11
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Maybe I should look at class a's



Quote:
Originally Posted by KenZ71 View Post
Sway? Only sway I've experienced was parked on side of road for a quick bio break.
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Old 10-24-2020, 09:02 PM   #12
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I keep in mind that I am driving "a box on wheels" and when a semi "another box on wheels" goes next to me there is some level of turbulence happening. I made some changes on mine to make it less but there are time I experienced it. I haven't had a Class A but assume the same stuff happens, perhaps at a different level.
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Old 10-25-2020, 09:46 AM   #13
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Most Class A's are subject to sway when turning and in the wind. I have owned a Class A diesel pusher and my experience is that HWH Active Air (an expensive aftermarket add on) is the best solution to stabilize the ride of a Class A. I'm not sure of all the models of Coaches HWH can install the Active Air system. They would obviously already need an air ride suspension system.
If I ever owned another Class A diesel pusher the first thing I would do is have Active Air installed.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:29 AM   #14
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Amstier,

I have a Winnebago Spirit 25B on an E450. The handling of the RV as delivered was unacceptable to me. I experienced the same handling problems you described. The single biggest improvement to control sway came with the installation of the REAR sway bar from Henderson. I see from your post that you haven’t installed a new rear sway bar yet. I believe the rear sway bar is the most important component in reducing sway on the E series.

With the caster adjustment (the description in post #5 is excellent), bigger front and rear sway bars, a rear panhard bar, self-centering steering stabilizer (e.g. Safe-T-Plus) and shocks (e.g. Koni), I’ve done all I can do to improve the handling on my 26’ E Series. I can now drive 75 miles an hour towing a Jeep Wrangler with much reduced sway, lean and steering input. The handling is as good as it gets. Nevertheless, it still does not handle like a well sorted Super C. I drove a 2021 Renegade Verona 36VSB and was sold. It drove and handled great.

The bottom line is that the frontal and side areas on these RVs are massive, resulting in all sorts of handling quirks. Unless an RV is optimized aerodynamically, the only way to effectively deal with the problem is additional weight (i.e. heavy duty Super C).

My Renegade Verona will be delivered in April. I’m already dreaming of a 36’ Class 8......
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