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Old 09-05-2021, 04:37 PM   #1
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Recommendation for Mechanic in SE to Replace Broken Exhaust Studs on V-10

My wife, cat, and I full time in a 2000 Coachman Catalina Sport built on the Ford E-350 chassis with the V-10 engine.

After giving the motorhome a periodic inspection, I noticed two broken exhaust studs (flush) on the rear lower passenger side of the exhaust manifold near the starter. Those two studs, thankfully, have the best access since the V-10 in the E-350 is tight. There does not appear to be any exhaust leak. I have searched the forum and read posts from those who have removed and replaced the exhaust studs themselves or have had a shop do the repairs.

We will be in Louisiana in October, but we are willing to drive to any of the surrounding states if necessary for the repairs and would appreciate recommendations for a trusted shop with experience in exhaust stud removal that could perform the work. A Ford Commerical Service shop quoted $1800 for the one side but then said engine removal would be necessary for repair. Thank you in advance for your suggestions.
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Old 09-06-2021, 06:26 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryV18 View Post
My wife, cat, and I full time in a 2000 Coachman Catalina Sport built on the Ford E-350 chassis with the V-10 engine.

After giving the motorhome a periodic inspection, I noticed two broken exhaust studs (flush) on the rear lower passenger side of the exhaust manifold near the starter. Those two studs, thankfully, have the best access since the V-10 in the E-350 is tight. There does not appear to be any exhaust leak. I have searched the forum and read posts from those who have removed and replaced the exhaust studs themselves or have had a shop do the repairs.

We will be in Louisiana in October, but we are willing to drive to any of the surrounding states if necessary for the repairs and would appreciate recommendations for a trusted shop with experience in exhaust stud removal that could perform the work. A Ford Commerical Service shop quoted $1800 for the one side but then said engine removal would be necessary for repair. Thank you in advance for your suggestions.
Find an larger independent shop that looks professional and has good reviews and talk to them about it. With the right tools, some average skills, and a little willingness it should be possible to perform the repair without drastic measures such as pulling the engine.
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Old 09-06-2021, 12:58 PM   #3
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I had several of them replaced years ago on my 2005 Class C's V10. No engine removal was required.

I'm not sure how they got access to the exhaust studs. I'm wondering if they didn't remove the front tires, and then remove the inner fender-well pieces between the tires and engine so as to gain good access to the side of the engine and the exhaust manifold studs?
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Old 09-06-2021, 04:32 PM   #4
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Unfortunately, the exhaust manifold bolts are some of the more difficult items to repair/replace. On one of my RVs, (2015 Majestic 28a with Ford e450 v10) they had to pull the engine. Cost me $8000 (...I did have them replace other stuff as long as they had the engine out). That same RV had 3 of the 10 bolts snap again after just 1 year and 10,000 miles. It was under warranty thankfully at the repair shop. It took them many many hours to get them out and replace them (free of charge) and that time they did not have to pull the engine (but it was close).


Hopefully yours are easy to get to and they are able to extract them.


Good luck!
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Old 09-11-2021, 06:42 PM   #5
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Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I was hoping that someone might have used, was happy with the results, and could recommend an independent shop in the Southeast US. I am all ears!
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Old 09-11-2021, 09:36 PM   #6
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If the broken studs are easy-access, why not try removing them yourself?

You might be lucky and they broke in such a way that the remaining portion is loose inside. Heck they might have even vibrated out of the threaded holes and fallen out. If that is the case, all you need to do is bolt in new studs.

On a Pontiac Fiero-GT with V6 engine, I removed one broken manifold bolt stud that was loose inside using a tiny pic, working it out. I first tried a pencil with eraser, but it wasn't cooperating.

BUT.....

Most often what remains is rusted inside. Try tapping the stud lightly with a flat punch. Don't over-hit or you will deform the stud making it harder to back out. A light tapping sometimes breaks the rust free.

If you can gain access with a drill or right angle drill, buy a set of reverse drill bits off the internet. While reverse drilling pilot holes in the studs, they will often back out.

If you have any portion of the stud sticking out ever-so minor, you are in-luck. Remove the manifold, using a Dremel, grind two flat sides, enough to grip.

Years ago, I removed many broken manifold studs on Pontiac Fiero-GTs without disturbing anything except for the related manifold.

Do NOT reuse any original manifold bolts/studs. Replace all with brand new ones.
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Old 09-11-2021, 09:52 PM   #7
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If no leak.. DON'T TOUCH.. run it until you have a leak.. since you don't do the work yourself why cause and pain in your wallet for a problem that does not exist... just keep a close eye on it.. if you really feel it must be done.. ask your favorite car shop.. if they will not ask them who they trust.. I have seen them go a very long time.. it's all up to you.. also if you can't get a good response.. for a shop here.. in your travels pop in and visit a few shops.. get some ideas.. good luck and let us know what you did and maybe better members then me will help you oh.. really don't let anyone pull engine.. unless last resort.. most shops will never get it back right.. no way if it's a good running engine.. here is why.. one guy works on it one day.. someone else next.. so just difficult to get it back right.. yes go in under fender.. I have had.. to pull the heads off.. and just send to machine shop.. rarely..
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Old 09-19-2021, 08:59 AM   #8
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I have to replace the exhaust studs in my dodge hemi and they were not that bad, I did go thru the fender with the tire off and inner fender removed, I have also replaced on a couple ford v 8s and had a couple tough ones but welding a nut on with the wire feed worked great and have removed hundreds of broken studs from Cat engines, But if you take somewhere to be done ask questions and have them put a mechanic on it that has some experience doing them, You can request who works on your engine and who does not I have worked in truck shops since 1970 and there are alot of mechanics who are worthless and make a bigger mess of things and someone else has to clean up the mess they made of it.
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Old 10-03-2021, 07:01 PM   #9
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Yep, I worked as a mechanic for a GM dealer for 30 years. An experienced tech with welding skills can tack a weld on a nut over the stud to extract. This is a common problem on most truck engines as the brilliant engineers went to 8mm studs to save weight.
Expansion and contraction eventually snaps the studs.
The heat from the weld frees up the locktite used by the manufacturer.
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