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THenne1713 · 08-20-2022, 11:02 PM

So I ordered a FAN CLUTCH AND TOOL AND WATER PUMP, trying to solve a roller bearing NOISE that I wudda sworn was the Alternator, but nope, (also replaced at same time as alternator) serpentine, idler, 2nd idler, and tensioner. After noise remained, I removed belt again, and rechecked fan clutch and water pump, no apparent problems or noise, but ordered, received same, install PENDING AIR COND ON/OFF MAKES No DIFFERENCE TO NOISE, and does not sound like timing chains? Engine about 42k miles, 1999 2v, 6.8 ... Running out of suspects... I have had idlers lock up and snap belts, so PM (Preventive) is MY Goal.

WISH ME LUCK... Thoughts/ experiences welcomed.

TeJay · 08-20-2022, 11:08 PM

Have you tried using a mechanics stethoscope to locate the noise? After all you've replaced it should be easier to locate it.

twinboat · 08-21-2022, 12:42 AM

Stethoscope is a great tool to locate bearing noises. A wooden dowl will work also, just place it on the suspected bearing and put your ear to it.

Whether the air conditioner is on or off, the bearing for the clutch is still spinning. If you find it bad, it can be replaced without discharging the refrigerant.

Ron Dittmer · 08-21-2022, 08:59 AM

I would remove the serpentine belt(s) and run the engine for 30 seconds to see if the noise disappears. There is no harm running an engine for such a short duration without belts.

Doing so will surely rule out or zoom in on something mounted to the engine.

kwftlaud · 08-21-2022, 05:22 PM

I just dealt with this on a 2001 6.8 V-10

The noise was present with the AC on or off.
When I took the fan belt off it was obvious that the culprit with the AC compressor. Since the AC still worked, I didn't think the internal parts of the compressor were bad. But, the bearing of the Magnetic AC clutch was bad.

I ordered it from Amazon for $50.
It was easy to remove . I did not have to take the compressor off of the engine. When I installed the new one I bought a center bolt that was longer than the original one so I could push the new bearing plate on. I did not change the electric magnet as that needed to be pressed on and I did not want to take the AC compressor off. I was hoping I could repair this problem without having to open up the AC system.

It went together pretty easily, but then the belt would not go back on.
I ordered a new belt 1 inch longer and it went on. I did change out the idler and tensioner pully at the same time.

Since I only needed the new belt because of Amazon's screw up, they gave it to me for free.
Total cost of the whole job was under $100.
I worked underneath it, in my driveway.

Take the belt off, get under the rig and spin the AC compressor. I bet you will find your problem.

Kip

THenne1713 · 08-21-2022, 10:31 PM

Thx, I will definitely triple check compressor clutch while belt off. Not sure, tho, how that clutch bearing still spinning when engaged/ ON, (should be locked to shaft when on?) Shaft bearing should only spin when ON? CLUTCH bearing should only spin when AC=OFF. I did use steel rood for sounding, (still loudest at NEW alternator) Grrrrrrrr P.s. New belt also seemed too short, so slid under again and found was hing on a bolt :-( :-) :-)

twinboat · 08-21-2022, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by THenne1713

Thx, I will definitely triple check compressor clutch while belt off. Not sure, tho, how that clutch bearing still spinning when engaged/ ON, (should be locked to shaft when on?) Shaft bearing should only spin when ON? CLUTCH bearing should only spin when AC=OFF. I did use steel rood for sounding, (still loudest at NEW alternator) Grrrrrrrr P.s. New belt also seemed too short, so slid under again and found was hing on a bolt :-( :-) :-)

Air conditioner pully always turns. It's supported by the bearing.
When AC is on, center section, connected to compressor shaft, also turns.

THenne1713 · 09-02-2022, 01:35 AM

So did finally get it torn down again, and found PROBLEM was the WATER PUMP, and found it wiggling the fan FROM the TOP, it became obvious. I had previously tried wiggling everything while laying on ground, and suspect the WEIGHT of the FAN CLUTCH on end of shaft was fooling me, and I was not applying enough pressure... FROM TOP, A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE. IT BECAME MORE OBVIOUS, but in hind sight, note the pump WEEP HOLE on TOP, but also pump and weep hole hidden by the WP pulley (bowl style that covers it all). After the shake test revealed, and bowl pulley removed, you could SEE the weep hole leakage & pump body rust. I was always used to bottom weep holes that you cud see drip from below :-) not so here, and RESERVOIR HAD NEVER GOTTEN BELOW the FULL COLD. top hose LOOKS EASY, BUT OCTOPUS BOTTOM HOSE looks like maybe a challenge?