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10-28-2011, 08:32 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
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RV Roof, (what do I have?)
Hello fellow RV'ers...
New to RV's and to this site and I have a question concerning RV roofs.
I recently inherited a Tioga 24' from my dad when he passed away, I believe it is from the 1996 time frame. My dad, (bless his soul), was never big on maintenance and I have found several areas where it appears the roof is leaking.
I have checked a few web-sites concerning repair but the first problem appears to be finding out WHAT KIND of roof I have.
Question=> how can I tell what type of roof is on the RV?
Any assistance with this would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Rob
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10-28-2011, 09:34 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Federal Way, Wa.
Posts: 2,901
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Fiberglass will make a tinny sound when you tap on it---rubber will make a dull thudding sound. I believe you have a rubber roof.
__________________
I do all my own stunts
03 Dolphin LX 6355, Workhorse W22, 8.1 vortec, 04 CR-V, Blue Ox, Brake Pro----Norm, Barb and
Doc(He's a PhD)
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10-28-2011, 10:34 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bolivia, NC
Posts: 1,401
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I did a search for the specs for a 96 Fleetwood Tioga. I couldn't find anything for you. However I did find where you call Fleetwood & order any manauls if you need to. If they are still avaiable. here is the link.
Welcome to the iRV2 forum. Most any question can be answered here with the vast knowledge that frequents this forum.
If you have a rubber roof, which is very likely, there is a product called Eternabond. It is a tape that has a very good adhesion. They make it in a variety of sizes for repairs & general maintenance. Do a search here, there are some good threads about this.
__________________
Dan Sees, , 2013 Winnebago Journey 42e, 2014 Featherlite Car Hauler 3110 17.5', 2008 Mazda MX5,
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser,2018 mercedes Benz GLA 250
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10-28-2011, 12:46 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
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RV roof
Thanks for the response so far. If I were to post a picture, (if this site allows that), I was wondering if it would be easier for someone to help me out.
Rob
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10-28-2011, 07:01 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Bolivia, NC
Posts: 1,401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsbike
I did a search for the specs for a 96 Fleetwood Tioga. I couldn't find anything for you. However I did find where you call Fleetwood & order any manauls if you need to. If they are still avaiable. here is the link.
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I thought I posted the link here. Either I forgot to paste or it was removed by a moderator. Sorry, I have no idea where I was searching earlier. If you do a search for Fleetwood manuals it should come up.
__________________
Dan Sees, , 2013 Winnebago Journey 42e, 2014 Featherlite Car Hauler 3110 17.5', 2008 Mazda MX5,
2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser,2018 mercedes Benz GLA 250
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10-28-2011, 08:48 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 23
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If you can narrow down the year, or find the FIN (Fleetwood identification number), give Fleetwood customer service a call. Anytime I have had to deal with them, they have been extremely helpful. (800) 322-8216.
If you want a manual, this is from their website:
How can I get an owner's manual?
You can have a Fleetwood RV Owner's Manual e-mailed to you (PDF format) by sending a check or money order for $10.00 to the address listed below; if you would prefer a paper copy sent via US Mail, please send $20.00. Please be sure to include your name, street address or email address, vehicle model, and model year.
Fleetwood RV Owner Relations
PO Box 1007
Decatur, IN 46733
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10-30-2011, 01:46 PM
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#7
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
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Okay; so I have pretty much determined that the roof is rubber...
I can lift up a small section at the seam of the roof/side and the wood underneath appears damp/wet. Do I need to cut back the roof to expose the damp wood before applying a repair to the roof? I kinow, I know, it would be the prudent thing to do, but I was just hoping that it would not be necessary.
If I do cut back the areas that appeared damaged, how do you all recommend the repair?
Thanks,
Rob
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10-30-2011, 03:18 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
National RV Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Federal Way, Wa.
Posts: 2,901
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I'm not an expert on rubber roofs but I do a lot of diy projects. Without pictures I just have to make some guesses.
RV Rubber Roof I found this website about a person that recoated his rubber roof himself--it goes step by step. He seemed to have the same problem so maybe it can help you. He has a three year follow up that says all is ok---so it may help.
As far as the dampness under the roof you must find the least intrusive way (if you intend too preserve your roof) to find out the extent of dampness and has it left any rot. Rot equals weakness, dampness does not necessarily mean weakness but it must be dried or it may turn to rot.
Can the edge of the rubber roof be lifted enough to let you see or feel the extent of dampness? How far back into the roof structure does it go. If so then I would work from the edges so I could refit the seam when I am done. Lift the edges and see what you have going on keep searching until you can find where the wood is dry not damp.
Can any of the roof be exposed from the inside---removing a vent or under side of a cabinet---anything to gain access.
Then you must dry the damp wood with fans or heat perhaps a tarp over the effected area and a fan blowing inside the roof under the rubber if some heat can be appplied so much the better.
If you have rot then the job just became bigger---depending on how much rot. If you can access the extent of the rot and carve it out and replace it with new wood glued and retain roof integrity then you dodged a bullet---if not then you have to have access.
It may mean cutting out a square of the roof---and I just do not know exactly what that means. Is the roof glued to the roof frame? If so then it would be tough to get off. If it is not glued it seems maybe a patch the smallest possible could be cut out allowing access then the cut out patch which can be put back down using eternabond and then coating the roof.
Since I am not an expert I am going to stop here and see if anyone comes along to concur or give better information. With the info I have I just provided a description of what I would be thinking if I were you.
__________________
I do all my own stunts
03 Dolphin LX 6355, Workhorse W22, 8.1 vortec, 04 CR-V, Blue Ox, Brake Pro----Norm, Barb and
Doc(He's a PhD)
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11-11-2011, 06:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Oregon
Posts: 252
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Roof leaks are a PIA - similar to your stick house the real source of the leak may not be close to where it's dripping inside. Many will take their rigs into an RV shop and spend $100 and have it pressure tested - this should identify all sources of potential water intrusion so you can determine how much/what steps you want to take to address the problem.
Eternabond is a popular choice for sealing side/front/rear seams - many will use it around vents etc but I prefer Dicor self leveling for that. If your roof only has a few small problems then patching it with Eternabond or Dicor may be all that is needed - but if your roof has lots of leaks then you might consider either install a new rubber roof on or you can use one of the many liquid rubber roof products that are reasonably easy to install - easy Google.
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03-07-2012, 03:15 PM
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#10
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Member
Gulf Streamers Club Ford Super Duty Owner
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 47
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See my post here. I have some pictures of a repair that I did this week. I cut out the bad rubber and plywood. Replaced the plywood and glued down new rubber and seamed it with eternabond for good measure.
http://www.irv2.com/forums/f84/my-ro...ml#post1106973
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2005 Monaco Knight 40DPT
Cummins ISC 8.3 330HP
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