Tire pressure monitors

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

Your the person I been looking for. What would you say to people that insist on running tires at the max pressure on the sidewall. Instead of using the load and inflation tables.

I have over 400 posts on my blog with 50 focused on inflation.


If you know the actual load on the tire then you can use the tables BUT you should include at least 15% margin with 25% being better.


If you don't know the actual loads you should follow the RV Certification label inflation number which is many times the inflation number molded on the tire sidewall.

[Vince5764]

I use the Tireminder i10. It works well for us.

https://www.minderresearch.com/produ...-transmitters/

[mtnpush]

We have used TPMS systems for years, the equipment and the company have provided flawless service and support.
We run them on all 8 MH tires and on 4 of
our tow car or boat.
I recommend installing the signal booster if using on long (length) vehicles.

[JohnLoves2Sk]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

I have over 400 posts on my blog with 50 focused on inflation.


If you know the actual load on the tire then you can use the tables BUT you should include at least 15% margin with 25% being better.


If you don't know the actual loads you should follow the RV Certification label inflation number which is many times the inflation number molded on the tire sidewall.

@Tireman9 what are your thoughts on needing steel valve stems when adding screw on tire pressure sensors? Will they really damage rubber stems in short order?

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by JohnLoves2Sk

@Tireman9 what are your thoughts on needing steel valve stems when adding screw on tire pressure sensors? Will they really damage rubber stems in short order?

As covered in my blog as early as March 2011 and as recently as last Aug, and many times in between, I have advised that people use bolt-in metal valve stems with their TPMS sensors. In some 2020 posts on the topic I even have a couple short videos that show why a metal bolt in stem is a good idea.


Sorry but I can't post a link to my RV Tire blog per iRV2 rules.

[mr.tommy]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

I have advised that people use bolt-in metal valve stems with their TPMS sensors. In some 2020 posts on the topic I even have a couple short videos that show why a metal bolt in stem is a good idea.

Tireman,
Have read much of your stuff on your blog over the years.
I just read your write up on these metal bolt in stems here:
https://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/label/valve%20stems

At the bottom of the page you showed diagrams and the specs of the what TRA recommends.

Then finally you closed by saying this:
Finally to show the attention to detail here is the spec for the little pin that sticks out of the valve stem. Not meeting this specification could be the reason your TPMS does not register your tire pressure. (Yes I have run into that problem)
I just wanted to try and give you a little understanding of the attention to detail tire engineers go-to when designing tires and when trying to understand the "why" for a tire to lose air.

So knowing now that using metal bolt in stems is the best way to go I have three questions:
1) How do you know when you buy metal bolt in stems they meet TRA standards? I currently have rubber stems and I never have had any leaks and my TPMS works fine. But read more in question 3.

2) Since you pointed out: Not meeting this specification could be the reason your TPMS does not register your tire pressure.
So what brand or name or Part type of bolt in stems do you recommend? What type can we rely on that do in fact meet these requirements, won't leak and won't interfere with a TPMS?

3) I currently am having NO problems with my tires or my TPMS leaking or anything like that. But when I have to replace my tires in about 2-3 years I want to change out the extensions that I currently have on both of my inside duallys to a solid one piece, bolt in metal stem. Do they make those too? If so again....what brand name, Part# etc., should I look at getting in addition to going with the shorter bolt ins stems on the other 4 tires?

I have a Class A but found your post here in Class c section.

thx

[dkoldman]

Originally Posted by jjrbus

If you are curious about the cheap ones, they are on Ebay now for $11. I bought 3 sets for replacements when my current ones fail. They last me about 2 years. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-TPMS-...72.m2749.l2649

I see no way to edit this post? Just receiveda notice these are no longer available.

These were the ones I referred to in my earlier post where I bought 2 of them. I paid $10.07 each for mine. They are still available but price from my ebay seller is now $22.99

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-TPMS-...72.m2749.l2649

Pricing on ebay varies; so you don't have to correct what was at one point in time correct.

Oddly when I first saw them, they were $20.99. I made an offer of $18 which was declined I was going in to buy anyway when I saw the $10.07/each. I think it may have been a mistake; but I ordered 2 with no second thought

I received both units yesterday, they work incredibly well. Instructions are there and accurate, but very tricky to follow. I changed to PSI & Degrees F The seller had previously told me you could not put two units in the same vehicle. He was WRONG!!!

I put 4 sensors on Navigator and they connected to monitor instantly. Monitor said 31 psi; so I put my digital gauge on same tire and got 30.9 psi I normally run at 35 psi; so I may be a tad low, but temp was cold last night.

With that working I took the other TMPS set and put sensors on my boat tires (Yamaha tandem trailer). They connected instantly as well, almost real time; maybe a 3 sec delay. When that system was confirmed, I put both monitors inside the RV and they are working just fine. I drove the SUV around without the boat, and watch the temp & pressure rise for SUV, but the boat readings stayed the same from where I left it. Because the SUV was moving it did not shutoff out of range. When I returned home it reconnected with boat, and the temp was slightly increasing on boat tires due to ambient temperatures warming up with the sun.

Why I have never did this before is mindboggling Probably tied to the fact that I was reluctant to spend $300 - $500 on the brand names. I don't tow the boat that much, but it will be easy to put the monitor in Navigator for every future trip. I am out of $10.07

In hindsight, I should have bought 6 of these things!!! $65 for 5 vehicles and Boat trailer.

Next step, the Heavy duty Truck Solar USB TPMS that I ordered from a different seller is being shipped. I don't expect it for a month. It does pressure up to 15 bar / 217 PSI, I run my RV on 82 PSI I spent $48 on it It is at link below. (Note: I can't to speak to Quality of this one just yet) But can't wait....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-Truck...72.m2749.l2649

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by mr.tommy

Tireman,
Have read much of your stuff on your blog over the years.
I just read your write up on these metal bolt in stems here:
https://www.rvtiresafety.net/search/label/valve%20stems

At the bottom of the page you showed diagrams and the specs of the what TRA recommends.

Then finally you closed by saying this:
Finally to show the attention to detail here is the spec for the little pin that sticks out of the valve stem. Not meeting this specification could be the reason your TPMS does not register your tire pressure. (Yes I have run into that problem)
I just wanted to try and give you a little understanding of the attention to detail tire engineers go-to when designing tires and when trying to understand the "why" for a tire to lose air.

So knowing now that using metal bolt in stems is the best way to go I have three questions:
1) How do you know when you buy metal bolt in stems they meet TRA standards? I currently have rubber stems and I never have had any leaks and my TPMS works fine. But read more in question 3.

2) Since you pointed out: Not meeting this specification could be the reason your TPMS does not register your tire pressure.
So what brand or name or Part type of bolt in stems do you recommend? What type can we rely on that do in fact meet these requirements, won't leak and won't interfere with a TPMS?

3) I currently am having NO problems with my tires or my TPMS leaking or anything like that. But when I have to replace my tires in about 2-3 years I want to change out the extensions that I currently have on both of my inside duallys to a solid one piece, bolt in metal stem. Do they make those too? If so again....what brand name, Part# etc., should I look at getting in addition to going with the shorter bolt ins stems on the other 4 tires?

I have a Class A but found your post here in Class c section.

thx

As far as I have seen the regular bolt-in metal stems meet Tire & Rim Standards. As I pointed out the center pin being at an incorrect height might be a reason for some people to have problems with TPMS or air chuck. One reason for the pin height to not be correct might be the core is or has been over-tightened so the pin is too low.
I have three blog posts that cover valve cores and how tight they should be and how they can leak.


RE Extensions. I have seen many complain about problems but those posts fail to identify their specific problem. I think that it may be that the plastic or other hard extensions vibrate loose. or the extension may leak from the get-go.
I have had good luck with the braided Stainless steel hoses but they, like any extension need to be firmly attached so there is no movement and little vibration.
Specifically I prefer "Hub Mount" Stainless but not the "Airless" version as those may not work well with TPMS.
Wheel Masters: Dual Tire Inflation Systems

[Gidyupgo]

2017 Sunseeker 3010, Class C
Recently, about an hour into a travel day, out in the middle of nowhere and about 30 minutes from the next town, I got an alarm that the drivers side inside dual had dropped from 80 down to 65. Was able to safely pull off the road, air it back up and monitor it while driving to a tire store in the next town. They fixed it while we waited and 30 minutes and $15 later we were on our way. With us on that trip was our son and 4 grandchildren.

TST 507, band mounted to the drop center on the wheels. No special requirements for valve stems. Cap sensors on the TOAD towing 4 down. Coming up on 4 years, 42,000 trouble free miles. Initial install for the internal band mounts were at a local tire store, $18 a wheel. Internal batteries expected to last til tire change. When it's time to change out the tires, TST will do a deal for the replacement sensors and the tire store said there will be no charge to swap them out with the tires.

Customer for life.

[mr.tommy]

Originally Posted by Tireman9

As far as I have seen the regular bolt-in metal stems meet Tire & Rim Standards. As I pointed out the center pin being at an incorrect height might be a reason for some people to have problems with TPMS or air chuck. One reason for the pin height to not be correct might be the core is or has been over-tightened so the pin is too low.
I have three blog posts that cover valve cores and how tight they should be and how they can leak.


RE Extensions. I have seen many complain about problems but those posts fail to identify their specific problem. I think that it may be that the plastic or other hard extensions vibrate loose. or the extension may leak from the get-go.
I have had good luck with the braided Stainless steel hoses but they, like any extension need to be firmly attached so there is no movement and little vibration.
Specifically I prefer "Hub Mount" Stainless but not the "Airless" version as those may not work well with TPMS.
Wheel Masters: Dual Tire Inflation Systems

Thank you Tireman9.
My current 2 extensions that I use for my inside dually's are stainless steel rods. My original plan when I change my tires in the future was to go with a long, solid, one piece rubber type extended stem and eliminate the extension. But I'll read those other blog post of yours and relay that info to my tire shop I use and see what they say. They're a great shop and mostly service big trucks and MH's.

[jjrbus]

Originally Posted by dkoldman

These were the ones I referred to in my earlier post where I bought 2 of them. I paid $10.07 each for mine. They are still available but price from my ebay seller is now $22.99

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-TPMS-...72.m2749.l2649



https://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-Truck...72.m2749.l2649

My experience is the the cheap ones are all the same quality and last about 2 years. One set I ordered from China were junk. Took a bit of time but they did refund my money. I believe the quality and accuracy is better than 4 years ago!

[Tireman9]

Originally Posted by Gidyupgo

2017 Sunseeker 3010, Class C
Recently, about an hour into a travel day, out in the middle of nowhere and about 30 minutes from the next town, I got an alarm that the drivers side inside dual had dropped from 80 down to 65. Was able to safely pull off the road, air it back up and monitor it while driving to a tire store in the next town. They fixed it while we waited and 30 minutes and $15 later we were on our way. With us on that trip was our son and 4 grandchildren.

TST 507, band mounted to the drop center on the wheels. No special requirements for valve stems. Cap sensors on the TOAD towing 4 down. Coming up on 4 years, 42,000 trouble free miles. Initial install for the internal band mounts were at a local tire store, $18 a wheel. Internal batteries expected to last til tire change. When it's time to change out the tires, TST will do a deal for the replacement sensors and the tire store said there will be no charge to swap them out with the tires.

Customer for life.

So having a TPMS clearly paid for itself and you still have it. You saved the $hundreds in RV damage. You were able to save the cost of the tire too.


Seems like much better than 100% return on your investment.

[JellyBean]

I just wanted to add this from another thread. I looked and most posts and replies didn't include the info I needed which was within this thread from 2014: Tire temps



[QUOTE=TST System;2090677]Hello Sir,

That is great you got a TPMS.

Typically tires will begin to fail between 185 and 205 degrees. The TST is set to alarm when the tires reaches 157, which is well below the catastrophic failure point, but well above normal operating condition. Your tires when driving should be approx. 15% to 22% above ambient temp. The system will alarm on such situations as a Hanging Brake Caliper, Hot Bearings or Rotors, or even a Tire Manufacturer Defect like a bubble in the side wall. Anything that causes that tire heat up unusually will trigger an alarm once the temp rises over 157.

I hope this answers your questions. Feel free to contact me directly if you have more questions.

[jjrbus]

I should bring this up while I have everyone's attention One issue I had and have not read about anyone else having. I removed a external sensor and tried to add air. Could not add air to the tire. It took a bit to find that the rubber seal in the sensor was loose and was stuck in the valve stem causing the issue.



Had the valve stem been in a different position or if my eye sight were better I might have noticed it right away. It was a head scratcher for a bit.