Toad limit

[yasbush]

Recently had my Class A diesel motorhome totaled after being back into by a semi truck. Getting ready to buy a 25 ft Class C with the E450 chassis. New to class C rv. Question? Will I still be able to use my 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 as a tow vehicle which is approximately 4500 lb, anybody else towing a Jeep Grand Cherokee with the e450 chassis or E350? Hoping I won't have to buy a lighter toad.

[Camp CA]

What specific motorhome model? A E450 Class C motorhome capacity can handle about 5,000 pounds https://www.familylifeshare.com/clas...h-35-examples/ but check the specs to be sure.

[twinboat]

From 2016 or so, E450s have been upgraded to tow 8000 lbs.

My 2017 25 ft E450 is rated to tow 8000 lbs.

[Flyer15015]

Yas,
Depends on how your hitch is mounted to the frame.
Mine was a 15" "bellcrank" in that it hung down from the frame extension, and was attached with just 5 huck nuts on each side to a pair of 3 x 3 x 3/16 pieces of angle iron. NOT GOOD!
I reinforced it with a pair of 2 x 2 x 1/4 pieces of angle iron, and grade 8 bolts as so.
Now I tow an 8K# enclosed car hauler with confidence.
Maybe you could do the same, or something similar.

Mike in Colorado

[Alpine36]

Our neighbor has a 2019 450 class c. (Dynamax) I believe it's rated for 6k towing and hauls their 4500lb jeep with no issues, and is well within hitch rating and GCVWR. As Flyer 15015 says, check the hitch mounting integrity. He did the right thing. Not all RV manufacturing is equal, and not all hitch installers follow best practice. Just because a hitch is "rated" for X amount doesn't factor in improper installation or GCVWR. NEVER exceed either.
Inspect the hitch and toad baseplate integrity frequently.

[RangerZ]

You should have no trouble at all. I have a 25 footer on 350 and tow a 6000 pound crew cab truck and I’m well within the weight limits. It does have a 7500 pound rated hitch on it. Most come standard with a 5000 pound

[Rockwood27]

My 2017 V10 based E450 "Class A" has the 14,500 lb GVWR chassis with a GCWR of 20,000 lbs. It's equipped with an 8,000 hitch. Since my "Class A" weighs 13,100 lbs fully loaded, theoretically, I could tow a 6,900 lb vehicle. The same "Class A" on the E350 chassis is rated 12.5/18.5. I suspect almost all of the 12,500 lb GVWR would be used up.

I don't know the ratings of the newer V8 equipped E350/450 are.

[Ron Dittmer]

Our 2007 E350 with 6.8L-V10 chassis, 24 foot motorhome with a 5000 pound hitch tows our 4300 pound 2006 Jeep Liberty 4x4 within spec. and without issues, so as long as your hitch is rated at least 5000 pounds, you will do fine.

This is us.

[Mich F]

Ford has been rating The E 450 cab and chassis with the V 10 engine at up to 14,500 # GVWR and a 22,000# GCWR since the 2011 model year. The final completed GCWR has been up to the MH manufacturer. I believe most Class C manufacturers now rate their finished MHs with the same GCWR as Ford.
Thor I believe was the first manufacturer to put an 8,000# rated hitch on a vehicle that's rated to tow 7,500# if it's loaded to the GVWR.

[Ludmilla]

You can calculate how much you can tow:

gcwr - gvwr

[Rockwood27]

Originally Posted by Ludmilla

You can calculate how much you can tow:

gcwr - gvwr

Actually, it's GCWR-GVW<=Hitch rating.

Sent from my SM-A515U using iRV2 - RV Forum mobile app

[CWSWine]

I currently own both a 29 foot Aspect with V10 and 40 Newmar Diesel Class A. Since you coming from a Class A Diesel to Class C Gas V10 there a huge difference between towing the same vehicle. My Class C has 14,500 GVWR and 20,000 GCWR with a 5,000 pound hitch ratings. I'm about 1,000 under the GVWR on the Class C and I can tell it back there even on rolling hills the Class C loses speed and down shifts. The difference between a Diesel with 1,000 plus foot pounds of torque and V10 with lies than 500 pounds of torque is huge difference in how it tow. Will get the job done - yes.

[Jack Flack]

The way I was taught is to check 4 different numbers to make sure you are legally towing.

1. The "towing capacity" is how much a truck (RV, whatever) can pull. So whatever you pull should weigh less than the towing capacity. Your hitch should be rated to pull the weight of whatever you are towing. Most of the time, this is the easiest number to meet and the one that the vehicle dealers (deceptively, in my opinion) focus on.

2. With everything loaded up (water, fuel, people, etc.) and whatever you are pulling hooked up, you cannot exceed the GWVR (e.g., the truck weight including whatever weight is placed on the truck from what you are towing has to be less than the GWVR). Load leveling hitches move weight from a trailer to the front axle and trailer, so the entire hitch weight is not carried by the rear axle and so help out with this number as well as helping stay below the axle ratings. When you flat tow, the hitch weight is effectively zero. Most vehicles run out of cargo carrying capacity (difference between vehicle weight and GWVR) when towing well before running out of "towing capacity".

3. The combined weight of your truck fully loaded and whatever you are towing fully loaded cannot be more than the GCWR.

4. The weight on each axle (front and rear) cannot exceed the respective axle rating.

[Mr_D]

Originally Posted by Flyer15015

Yas,
Depends on how your hitch is mounted to the frame.
Mine was a 15" "bellcrank" in that it hung down from the frame extension, and was attached with just 5 huck nuts on each side to a pair of 3 x 3 x 3/16 pieces of angle iron. NOT GOOD!
I reinforced it with a pair of 2 x 2 x 1/4 pieces of angle iron, and grade 8 bolts as so.
Now I tow an 8K# enclosed car hauler with confidence.
Maybe you could do the same, or something similar.

Mike in Colorado

It's much more than just how the hitch is mounted!
Brakes, tires, wheels, suspension, axles, transmission and engine also need to enter the equation.