Water heater

[stvns1]

Electric elements seem to be not working. I attached two photos, not sure if these two items with electrical connectors is the elements? Thanks for any help.

[TonyMac]

Behind that black sticky foam thingy are two temperature sensors. One of those wires doesn't look like any of the others. It has a temperature sensitive fusable link that opens when it feels like the water heater is on fire -- nobody likes hhot water at a fire -- but it fails if the water heater's burner decides not to go where it's supposed to go. The black box has a fuse in it, throw your trusty ohm meter on that fuse. Then unplud the connector and the funny looking wire and ohm it too, making sure the fusible link is good. That box is easy to replace, it has numbers on it to ensure you fet the right one.


If by "Electric elements" you mean the electric heating element, it's on the other side of the water heater. It has a 120vac wire coming outta it and plugging into a wall outler specifically for the water heater. You'll likely need a flash to take a picture of it.

[stvns1]

Thanks TomyMac. I give everything a try an get back to you. Question...do I have to remove heater from MY to get to element or is there access from other side?

[stvns1]

Mh....good ole spell correct

[TonyMac]

There is likely access from the other side because that's where the pipes connect to the wh, and it's likely where the bypass mechanism is located. You cannot remove the wh without undo-ing these connections. Just look at the heater on the outside, and visualize where it is on the inside. Go there. Mine is in a cabinet under the wd just fwd of the rear axel. Some are behind drawers in the kitchen -- remove said drawers.

[henryn]

I had the same problem last year. Before removing any of the above recommendations , check the visible wire. That is the wire in the photo that has the plastic shield and attached to the brown wire. It has female fittings on both ends. The reason I said this is after pulling my hair, I ohm tested this link and then replaced it. Everything went back to normal. Easy to order on Amazon and now I carry a spare. Try this first.

[wa8yxm]

I just did an R&R of one of those Atwood. Have following comments on above posts

PHotos are of the OUTSIDE, Electric element is behind something on the INSIDE (back side)

The Two T-Stats are good if it works on Gas, they work on both electric and Gas.
Control board (upper rigjght that's the "potted" box) may be the problem,, or not.. Easily tested

On the back side you will find a plastic box. Getting it open may be a trick but inside you will find a relay.

Turn OFF the circuit breaker for the water heater (This will not affect teh controls) and hook a volt meter across the relay coil leads.
Switch on ELECTRIC (With cold water in heater) and you shoudl see 12 volts or close to it.

If not your suspects are the switch, and the control box if the switch lights up it is NOT the switch. (NO light may be a burned out bulb and still not the switch, more volt meter testing needed)

Optional. Observe relay pull in, that's even better test.

Switch to AC volts any range over 120 and hook meter to the ROMEX cazble entering the box.. Switch on breaker and confirm Switch off

Hook to heat element (It is above the relay box) switch on see if you have 120 volts. if not (With relay pulled in) you have a bad relay.

If you do, Switch off (Breker again) Disconnect wries from element and measure resistasnce screw to screw.. Report back to us. NOTE; OPEN CIRCUIT (Same reading you get with meter set to Resistance and leads not touching) = bad element, other readings may as well.

IF you need to repalace the element,, Take it to Lowes, Home Depot, Et-Al, and get one.. NOTE
Standard element i9s 1200 or 1500 watts at 120 volts.
I replaced mine witha 1500 watt 240 volt
This gives me about 375 watts at 120 volts. takes longer to heat water but... Takes a lot longer to trip park 30 amp braker (like I've not done it since).

[bearaboo]

Take off the brown wire attached to the plastic shield and connect it directly where the plastic shield wire was connected. If water heater works then you need a new plastic shielded fuse. Go to Amazon and put in Atwood 93866. It is a water heater thermal cut off switch.

[Old-Biscuit]

According to your other posts you have a 1995 MH..........(should put that info in)
So lots of good info has been posted but does not apply to electric element ''IF" that is what you are asking about

ALL of that wiring/t-stats/thermal fuse/circuit board etc is ONLY for the propane system
Has NOTHING to do with the electric element side
IF propane fires..forget about troubleshooting any of that stuff.
(Course if you do not have a combo unit and the propane is NOT firing off...that is different issue.)


Old version combo units have separate systems......electric is inside rv on the backside of water heater tank....bottom area under a protective cover.
It has two wires going to element....black/`120V AC and white/AC Neutral
Water heater AC is fed from a 120V AC Circuit Breaker (could be plugged into an AC Outlet)

The electric element will also have it's own set of t-stats (normal temp control and a ECO--high temp control) If ECO tripped it maybe 'resettable' ---manual button in center of ECO

IF you would post the Model of that Atwood a wiring diagram could be posted.
Changes in type of electric element used was made in 1996 so you may have the old 'bolt in type' element

See page 11 for description/troubleshooting (pg 12 for screw in type)
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/dealer-m...atermanual.pdf

[Old-Biscuit]

Something else you should do is get rid of that brass pet-cock in drain ........that 1/8" opening in pet-cock will NOT allow for good draining/flushing which is needed to eliminate/remove scale/crud from inside tank

Should use the NYLON drain plug....like the one sitting there in outside compartment.
Course you should buy NEW ---come 2 to package

NYLON.....
Has high temp/pressure ratings
Will NOT damage the aluminum threads in drain hole
Has NPT threads so it is self sealing
Allows for FULL draining


Pet-cock
Convenient

Other then that ....NOT good idea cause you never remove it and get FULL draining/flushing of tank that is really needed to extend life of that aluminum tank (and helps keep build up of scale on electric element IF you have one)

Are you there........????? (No response since post on 3/14)

[stvns1]

Yes I'm here now. Just returned from a trip. Thanks for your reply. Will definitely try your suggestion' s. 😊