Community Forums

AlaskaFly · 04-06-2021, 09:40 PM

Hello Everyone!

I currently have a 2018 Class C that I purchased last year. There seems to be a fair amount of rust around the hot water heater drain and that concerns me.

Are there any experts here that can give me advice? Should I replace it?

Sorry the picture isnt great. It is still winter up here and thats the only picture that I have!

Thank you for your time.

Skip426 · 04-07-2021, 12:12 PM

JMHO: If the anode rod threads in properly and doesn't leak at the threads , keep using it until you see leaking at the treads . My W/H looked just like that when I purchased the coach and it was 8 years before replacement was required .

I did pack some silicone sealant around the rod to slow the rusting down a bit.

AlaskaFly · 04-07-2021, 11:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skip426

JMHO: If the anode rod threads in properly and doesn't leak at the threads , keep using it until you see leaking at the treads . My W/H looked just like that when I purchased the coach and it was 8 years before replacement was required .

I did pack some silicone sealant around the rod to slow the rusting down a bit.

Thank you Skip!

Old-Biscuit · 04-07-2021, 11:45 PM

Get a 3/4" NPT steel nipple..
Cut 4 slots in the threads parallel with the nipple

Run the nipple into the drain hole back/forth chasing/cleaning up the threads

Use a small steel wire brush or a small steel wire wheel and clean up the rust
Then spray it with some Rust-Oleum paint

Couple wraps of Teflon Tape around the anode rod threads

Mudfrog · 04-08-2021, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skip426

JMHO: If the anode rod threads in properly and doesn't leak at the threads , keep using it until you see leaking at the treads . My W/H looked just like that when I purchased the coach and it was 8 years before replacement was required .

I did pack some silicone sealant around the rod to slow the rusting down a bit.

The curing of the silicone probably helped to make more rust.

OP, that doesn't look all that bad to me. I wouldn't worry about it, if it's not actually leaking at this time. You could always brush off the loose rust and touch it up with a paint designed to use over rust if it bugs you too much.

AlaskaFly · 04-08-2021, 11:23 PM

Awesome, thank you Mudfrog and Old-Biscuit. I appreciate you guys.

It isnt leaking at this time. Ill try cleaning it up with a wire brush and I will look into the best paint to throw a coat on it.

Ron Dittmer · 04-09-2021, 11:40 AM

My Atwood HWT has a plastic drain plug and zero rust after 14 years. I wonder if the Atwood tank is stainless.

The picture Skip426 posted appears to have a metal plug. Maybe much of the rust originates from the plug itself.

chunker · 04-09-2021, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer

My Atwood HWT has a plastic drain plug and zero rust after 14 years. I wonder if the Atwood tank is stainless.

The picture Skip426 posted appears to have a metal plug. Maybe much of the rust originates from the plug itself.

Atwood uses an aluminum tank, not a porcelain lined steel like the Suburban. Thus not needing an anode.

whalepirot · 04-09-2021, 05:46 PM

Despite wire brushing a rusty part, painting over it is cosmetic. Some paints are metal etching, with better adhesion' others claim formulation for application on rusty parts..

In my old car hobby, I use Metal Prep, which is brushed on, then rinsed off after a bit. It chemically alters the iron oxide after the loose parts are brushed off. I believe the active ingredient is muriatic acid.

When I recently replaced the anode in my HWH, I used plumber's sealant on the threads as Teflon tape seemed too thin and fragile to seal the relatively rough threads.