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04-06-2021, 09:40 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 8
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Water Heater Rust.. Help!
Hello Everyone!
I currently have a 2018 Class C that I purchased last year. There seems to be a fair amount of rust around the hot water heater drain and that concerns me.
Are there any experts here that can give me advice? Should I replace it?
Sorry the picture isnt great. It is still winter up here and thats the only picture that I have!
Thank you for your time.
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04-07-2021, 12:12 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Powell River, B.C.
Posts: 22,552
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JMHO: If the anode rod threads in properly and doesn't leak at the threads , keep using it until you see leaking at the treads . My W/H looked just like that when I purchased the coach and it was 8 years before replacement was required .
I did pack some silicone sealant around the rod to slow the rusting down a bit.
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99DSDP 3884, Freightliner, XC, CAT 3126B, 300 HP /ALLISON 3060
2000 Caravan toad, Remco & Blue Ox.
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04-07-2021, 11:14 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426
JMHO: If the anode rod threads in properly and doesn't leak at the threads , keep using it until you see leaking at the treads . My W/H looked just like that when I purchased the coach and it was 8 years before replacement was required .
I did pack some silicone sealant around the rod to slow the rusting down a bit.
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Thank you Skip!
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04-07-2021, 11:45 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Posts: 15,625
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Get a 3/4" NPT steel nipple..
Cut 4 slots in the threads parallel with the nipple
Run the nipple into the drain hole back/forth chasing/cleaning up the threads
Use a small steel wire brush or a small steel wire wheel and clean up the rust
Then spray it with some Rust-Oleum paint
Couple wraps of Teflon Tape around the anode rod threads
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Dodge 3500 w/Tractor Motor & NUWA 5vr
US NAVY---USS Decatur DDG-31
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04-08-2021, 10:26 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,866
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip426
JMHO: If the anode rod threads in properly and doesn't leak at the threads , keep using it until you see leaking at the treads . My W/H looked just like that when I purchased the coach and it was 8 years before replacement was required .
I did pack some silicone sealant around the rod to slow the rusting down a bit.
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The curing of the silicone probably helped to make more rust.
OP, that doesn't look all that bad to me. I wouldn't worry about it, if it's not actually leaking at this time. You could always brush off the loose rust and touch it up with a paint designed to use over rust if it bugs you too much.
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03 Itasca Sunova, Workhorse P32 with the 8.1 and 4L85-E
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04-08-2021, 11:23 PM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 8
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Awesome, thank you Mudfrog and Old-Biscuit. I appreciate you guys.
It isnt leaking at this time. Ill try cleaning it up with a wire brush and I will look into the best paint to throw a coat on it.
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04-09-2021, 11:40 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: West Dundee, IL
Posts: 696
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My Atwood HWT has a plastic drain plug and zero rust after 14 years. I wonder if the Atwood tank is stainless.
The picture Skip426 posted appears to have a metal plug. Maybe much of the rust originates from the plug itself.
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04-09-2021, 05:28 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: LA, Lower Alabama
Posts: 2,087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron Dittmer
My Atwood HWT has a plastic drain plug and zero rust after 14 years. I wonder if the Atwood tank is stainless.
The picture Skip426 posted appears to have a metal plug. Maybe much of the rust originates from the plug itself.
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Atwood uses an aluminum tank, not a porcelain lined steel like the Suburban. Thus not needing an anode.
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2020 Keystone Raptor 356
2012 PT Crusader 355BHQ (GFs)
2020 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW CC 4WD Diesel
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04-09-2021, 05:46 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: SoOC
Posts: 408
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Despite wire brushing a rusty part, painting over it is cosmetic. Some paints are metal etching, with better adhesion' others claim formulation for application on rusty parts..
In my old car hobby, I use Metal Prep, which is brushed on, then rinsed off after a bit. It chemically alters the iron oxide after the loose parts are brushed off. I believe the active ingredient is muriatic acid.
When I recently replaced the anode in my HWH, I used plumber's sealant on the threads as Teflon tape seemed too thin and fragile to seal the relatively rough threads.
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2007 Alpine SE 34FDDS + Cherokee Trailhawk
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