What to look for in a class C?

[M-34RQ]

I have a class A that I am planning on selling only to buy a class C. I have only been doing this for 3 years and want a class C because of price and b/c my class A needs a lot of work and its really old with a lot of problems. I don't want to dump thousands of dollars into it only to wish I wouldn't have. I know that I will be losing out on all the storage space a class A has, but why do I need all that stuff anyways and some other things as well.

I am looking at a 98 Class C Fourwinds Sport Chalet 25' with a v8 and 37000 miles. It looks clean from the pics I have seen and it a bit smaller than my class A at 34' but my family is only 3 with 2 dogs. I am a bit concerned about the length, storage space but mostly the v8.

What year did the v10's show up in class C's? What year did slide outs show up? What should I look for in a class C other than what I have mentioned?

Thanks.

[DoC808]

Brother any RV that old is going to need work done to it.

[gladu2]

Originally Posted by M-34RQ

I have a class A that I am planning on selling only to buy a class C. I have only been doing this for 3 years and want a class C because of price and b/c my class A needs a lot of work and its really old with a lot of problems. I don't want to dump thousands of dollars into it only to wish I wouldn't have. I know that I will be losing out on all the storage space a class A has, but why do I need all that stuff anyways and some other things as well.

I am looking at a 98 Class C Fourwinds Sport Chalet 25' with a v8 and 37000 miles. It looks clean from the pics I have seen and it a bit smaller than my class A at 34' but my family is only 3 with 2 dogs. I am a bit concerned about the length, storage space but mostly the v8.

What year did the v10's show up in class C's? What year did slide outs show up? What should I look for in a class C other than what I have mentioned?

Thanks.

The 98 Minnie I sold last year had a V10 and I'm quite sure some of the 97's did too. In my opinion the most important thing to look for is structural defects that might have been caused by leaks. Delamination and dry rotting can be very expensive to have professionally repaired and a lot of DIY repairs I've seen are very substandard repairs. Sometimes the well maintained Class C has more value then the one with the lowest miles on the engine. I can't answer your question about slide outs as our last 2 RV's didn't have any.

[nothermark]

When you get into 20 year old units with a rubber roof you are looking at replacing the roof within a few years if not immediately. All the rubber belts, seals and hoses are aging out. That is if there is no water damage from an already failed roof. That would leave me thinking anything you are looking at is as likely to be as big a money pit as maybe fixing your A.

[Jackhal1949]

I wouldn't buy any used RV older than 4-6 years old. 10 years plus you're looking at lots of maintenance issues. By that time the appliances are getting ready to be replaced, tires are due to be replaced, all gaskets are old and dying out, all chalking is also in need of replacing, check body/frame for rust, etc. You're better off spending the extra money for a newer rig than spending money repairing and replacing stuff. If it is old with low mileage it probably is suffering from lot rot. Then what to look for in a class C is floor plan that meets your needs, a make that has a good reputation, engine/transmission that will tow what ever you want, a CCC that is large enough for you and your stuff. Make sure your misses is happy with the RV or you wouldn't be! See if the RV has a good maintenance record and all required work has been done on it especially any recalls. If you buy from a private party have it inspected by a reputable dealer be for you buy. If the seller doesn't agree to an inspection run! Good luck in your search!

[WDW]

Either new or old go stand in the shower. Most C showers are tight compared to an A.

For some it doesn't matter. And others it's a deal breaker.

[spinroch]

Look for rot/water damage inside under the mattress in the Cabover up front, as well as outside along the bottom edge of the trim along the front cabover area. Poke at the areas under any windows in these areas, too. These are always trouble spots. Be sure to take your time to pick a nice, clean unit.

[Jackhal1949]

Good advise water damage from leakes are a common. Check caulking on all roof vents, around the overhang especially in the cab over has windows and marker lights. Check all around slides and gaskets and inside floor especially in slide outs for soft spongy flooring. Water is an RVs worse enemy. Check all water connections and water/drain hoses. Roofs can also have soft spots and check ceiling especially around vents, AC, and slide out ceilings. Good luck and happy hunting!

[frankdamp]

If it doesn't have fuel injection, run - don't walk - away. We had an older Class C whose Ford 460 had a carb and enough smog gear to equip an aircraft carrier. Nothing but trouble on a continuous basis. Our newer Class A (2002) that replaced it was the 6.8L V-10 with EFI - almost 40% better gas mileage.

My other "gotcha" on the "C" was that the floor stepped down from the living area to the cab and my head hit the edge of the bed almost every time I went to the driver's seat.

[JONWisconsin]

If you buy it, be ready for a some work. At that age any RV needs work.

[mikebreeze]

I have an 11 year old class C with a Ford V8. Power is adequate except when towing and going up long, steep grades. As for maintenance there is a lot on an older coach. I have become very good at applying Dicor and Eternabond to the roof of my rig. I would like to get my roof replaced but at 5K plus that is not something that I can afford. And the cost is about 33% of what my rig is worth. So if you want a class C because of the smaller length you will be happy. But if you buy a class C older than 10 years old you will still have to put a lot of money into it.

[memtb]

About the V-10 Ford....Be aware of the early production engines (manufactured thru about mid-year '03). These only had about 3 or 4 threads ( aluminum heads) holding the spark plug. There have been issues with spark plugs "blowing" out. It doesn't happen to all engines. But, if it happens to you... It sucks! It happened to my brother!

It CAN be repaired rather inexpensively thou. Do Not use the typical Heli - Coil repair system. Ford has a "special" repair kit for those engines.

Typically your motor home yeast model has the previous year model chassis. When we were shopping, we didn't look at anything older than an '05...Just for the "piece of mind"!

[tugboatterry]

Being new to Class C ownership, I will vouch for everything everyone has posted. Our Overcab was holding water like crazy. When we replaced the roof and pulled the overcab trim pieces water poured out. Wasn't even visible from the outside. On first glance it wasn't noticeable from the inside. Couldn't smell mold or mustiness. Could have been really bad but we caught it in time. Best way to tell is look at the overcab trim screws. If there is any rust at all, be ready to fix some leaks and possible water damage. Trust me they rust from the inside out not outside in.

Make sure you drive the thing on some rougher than normal roads. The Class C's we tried out shook a lot and sounded like they were going to fall apart. Especially the overcab. Ours is very quiet in comparison and handles better than the rentals and fsbo's we tried. Also, look closely at the fiberglass. Press your hands against the fiberglass on the lower exterior walls to see if they are solid. The overcab lower piece too. If it has come loose from the lower plywood this may mean water has gotten to it. Before we fixed mine you could see the road wind cause it to wiggle and move going down the road.

I really like how small they are. We can go almost anywhere a large full sized one-ton dualy pickup truck can. We are just family vacationers though not full timers.

[CWJK55]

Check inside of the cabinets for any water marks from leaks.