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Old 11-06-2020, 04:14 PM   #15
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Thanks

Thank you everyone for your advice...I will jump on this come the weekend...when I first bought this RV the generator didn't run. I bought her from one of my best friends widow (served with Danny in Vietnam, best friend) took her to shop and they confirmed no one had exercised the generator long enough for the carb to gum up and it cost me 1200 to fix :(...so I feel better now and will tackle this winterizing ASAP...thanks again for all the good info...I'm a real rookie with this baby
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Old 11-06-2020, 10:46 PM   #16
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You had asked about a good "load" for the generator. I wouldn't run the AC in cold temps. I do run just the AC fan (a small load) and a 1500 watt electric space heater (cheap from the big box stores) and that provides a decent load. They say the load is for the generator windings ........ the heat gets rid of moisture there, it is said.

I bought mine used and like you, I had carb varnish. I replaced the carb and all was good, but I am very religious about running that Onan now......and no more problems. They love to be run.

Glad you are "over the hump" on the Covid.

Best...............
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by happy2rv View Post
Well, to be fair, Onan recommends 2 hours each month in their service manual and I won't argue with them or you. My current generators are portable generators and they recommend 10-15 minutes per month. I believe even 5 minutes per month is better than nothing. The most common problem people have with generators is clogged carburetors. Even a couple of minutes a month will pull fresh gas through the carb, greatly minimizing these issues. Other parts of the generator will definitely benefit from longer run times. This applies to gas powered generators, both portable and permanently mounted. Diesel generators have other reasons to exercise them regularly and although they aren't likely to have the carb issues, lp fueled generators still need to be exercised regularly.
I do agree... partially.
Longer is better so no argument with 2 hours and my comment was a minimum. The key the mfg are concerned with is to get the windings warm enough to drive off moisture.
I certainly would not run any engine for only 5 min on a regular basis.
I do agree that on gassers carbs are a critical point. But think about it, if in storage, the gas you are moving into the carb is still old gas. If really concerned I would drain carb bowl and fill w SeaFoam for storage or run it dry w fuel closed off... vise grips on rubber hose if no shut off avail. Running any engine for short time w/o getting it warmed up isn't desirable.
Many gen mfg also recommend running w light or no load for 5 min before shutting down to let higher temp from being loaded stabilize before shut down.
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Old 11-07-2020, 09:29 AM   #18
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Lots of good advice above! I did not see Sta-Bil mentioned. Add Sta-bil or similar brand to gasoline for long term storage. It reduces chemical changes in gas which cause engine problems. Small engines are especially susceptible to old gas.

Battery storage is and issue. Motor homes have complected electrical systems. It is often difficult to determine what they are doing. I would try to use the built in converter/charger. Many regulate voltage better than less expensive battery maintainers. Some maintainers are poor substitutes.

Which ever you choose, get an inexpensive digital voltmeter from your local hardware store and measure the voltage at the battery terminals. While maintaining lead acid batteries, you want voltage to be about 13.3 volts. Flooded cell batteries are good between 12.7 to 13.6. 13.6 volts will consume more water and levels need to be monitored more often. Higher than 13.6 will consume even more water. Some high end converter/chargers periodically apply 14.4 volts or so for short periods of time. That is good for flooded cell batteries.

AGM batteries are often sensitive to high maintainer voltage. Certainly you would not want more than 13.6 volts. 13.3 is much better. AGM batteries do not need the periodic increase to 14.4 volts. Avoid that.

You said your batteries are in excellent condition. You can store them fully charge for 6 months as long as they are truly disconnected. Most RV's have a parasitic load that is always on. This is true even if there is a "disconnect" switch provided by the mfg.

Again, check the voltage at the battery terminals. Recharge before the voltage drops to 12.4 volts. Both full charge and recharge mean 14 hours using the built in charger.

AGM batteries can be stored fully charged and disconnected for about 12 months. Again recharge before voltage drops to 12.4 volts.

Note: different battery designs have different charge, discharge, and storage behaviors. Where battery manufactures instructions differ, use the mfg instructions.

I wish you good luck and happy trails ahead!
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Old 11-07-2020, 12:17 PM   #19
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I am a little confused. You say the plates are 2 years out of date. When was the last time it was actively used ? ( driven, not lived in )
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Old 11-08-2020, 10:59 AM   #20
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When last used

Nothing to be confused about....it's been about 2 years since we've taken her out...I had some mechanical and battery issues and wife hates to sleep in it due to the placement of the master bed (the reason for me selling it)...she feels like it's in a cave....so it has not been actively used for about two years or at least plate years...I should not have bought it without more consideration with wife!
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Old 11-08-2020, 11:33 AM   #21
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I guess now I am really confused. Do you mean it has not been Winterized for at least 2 years as well or did you de-Winterize it this past Summer ? How has it been stored for the last 2 years ? ( heated indoor storage maybe? ) Just trying to get my head around the need to Winterize now and not before.
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Old 11-09-2020, 11:20 AM   #22
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The long story

Roy it's a long story...before last winter I thought I had it under control. But It's hard for me to get around (80% military disabled and retired) but I got her ready for last winter...everything was done drained and she was plugged in. I couldn't get around to it as often as I wanted and soon learned the batteries were not being charged...they were ruined and I need to replace them...could not start it or take out of park (had a mechanic come and fix that after to sons tried to fix but couldn't) we tried to get her running and slowly replaced everything that needed to be replaced....soon as she was ready, it turned winter...two weeks ago. I will actively try to sell it soon but just got over covid-19. It doesn't get too cold here as she's sitting next to our home and plugged in with new batteries throughout...I do a large family... and some needed our help so many of my projects took second place. Want to know what a new engine cost for a Ford Expedition cost (8K installed) and 2006 Toyota? Believe me, our RV isn't #1 priority..the way things are happening in the states we might need a second home
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Old 11-09-2020, 06:22 PM   #23
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no "winterization" needed here

Lucky I dont have to do any "winterization" since I'm living in S Texas. But I do "upkeep" my lil Baby. I still do a lot of camping in her during the winter but stay in S Texas for that. It sure feels good to get out and enjoy the peace, nature, colder/cooler temps and all. Hell, come to think of it, I haven't camped outside of Texas yet. This state is too far to drive thru in one day for me.
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