Community Forums

CNYRVer · 10-11-2012, 03:35 PM

I have a 1992 gulfstream ultra limited that I was going to winterize today and just found out that I have no by-pass valve. I wanted to get it done today because the temp is suppose to drop to 28 degrees tonight. Will the tank and lines be ok till the weekend when it suppose to warm up? And if I do have to put some antifreeze in how do I go about bypassing the water heater??? Ive read the post in here about winterizing but none look like they pretain to my issue

gauto5150 · 10-11-2012, 03:49 PM

In my experience, you have to really get a HARD freeze for more than couple days to do any damage. I don't think you have anything to worry about.

Tony Lee · 10-11-2012, 04:37 PM

Not essential to have a WH bypass, and not essential to fill the lines with antifreeze.

A partial winterize is better than none at all and who can predict the weather that accurately.

Empty the water tank. Empty the hot water tank. Run the pump and open faucets sequentially until no more water comes out. Leave faucets open and open low point drains. I disconnect the pump each side and run it some more to make sure the chambers are empty

Others use air pressure to blow most of the water out of the system.

Dan DeBruin · 10-11-2012, 04:43 PM

I would not worry about it freezing at 28 degrees. But, I also agree that you can just drain the hot water heater and either blow the lines or gravity drain them. If you are too worried, put an electric heater in the coach. Not sure where you are located but I am in Upstate NY and here it probably won't stay below freezing for more than a couple of hours. Not enough time to freeze lines and cause damage. If it was staying that cold during the day, I would start to winterize immediately because it would be much colder during the night.

Horizonchase · 10-11-2012, 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tony Lee

Not essential to have a WH bypass, and not essential to fill the lines with antifreeze.

A partial winterize is better than none at all and who can predict the weather that accurately.

Empty the water tank. Empty the hot water tank. Run the pump and open faucets sequentially until no more water comes out. Leave faucets open and open low point drains. I disconnect the pump each side and run it some more to make sure the chambers are empty

Others use air pressure to blow most of the water out of the system.

I winterized mine for the very first time tonight. I blew the lines out and then added the RV antifreeze and ensured that the came out of all the faucets and sprayers.. That should suffice, right? I mean, should I also do as you do and disconnect the pump or will I be okay as is?
Thanks!

Skip426 · 10-11-2012, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Horizonchase

I winterized mine for the very first time tonight. I blew the lines out and then added the RV antifreeze and ensured that the came out of all the faucets and sprayers.. That should suffice, right? I mean, should I also do as you do and disconnect the pump or will I be okay as is?
Thanks!

If you used the 12v pump to move the A/F through the system you're fine

Tony Lee · 10-11-2012, 09:44 PM

I disconnect the pump and run it dry because I don't use antifreeze. If you use antifreeze you generally need to use the pump to push the antifreeze through the system after which all that part of the water system should be safe from freezing..

Depending on how your city water supply is configured, you may need to do something with the pump suction line, the water tank fill and the city water inlet which is why some blow out the whole system first using the air adaptor on the city water supply inlet.

If you have no water heater bypass, then you will either have to bypass it manually with a length of pipe and a couple of fittings, or pay the extra and fill the whole tank with antifreeze, or just blow out the whole system, then drain the water tank and HW tank and not bother with antifreeze.

If you choose to blow out, be careful to either regulate the air pressure to 50 psi max, or always keep one hot and one cold tap on to prevent dangerously-high pressures doing damage

CNYRVer · 10-12-2012, 03:53 AM

Thanks for all the input guys. I found the owners manual for the HW heater that was left in a drawer by the guy i bought the Rv from. I looked it over breifly and it says that if your winterizing if there is no bypass valve that you can pull the element and replace it with a 3/4 inch plug. Apparently according to the manual chemicals in the antifreeze will corrode the metal around the element thus shortening its life.
Thanks again guys my wife & I are new the the RV scene so I will be asking alot of questions, right now i just want to get it into my barn so I can renovate the inside and repair the leaking roof that the previous owners say they "fixed".

Hey Dan I see your in Victor Ny we are from West Winfield, Ny which is just south of utica. Happy motoring

Mike & debbie

Dan DeBruin · 10-12-2012, 05:05 AM

Mike,

Glad you got it figured out. We mostly travel to dog shows. The last one of the year for us will be Thanksgiving in West Springfield Mass. We will winterize after that show. If it gets cold, I will either put a space heater on low in the the basement or turn the furnace on, set at low fifties. Also, I don't use pink stuff and have never had a problem. I drain and blow it out. Have to be careful with the icemaker and make sure you have drained all the valves and pumps so there is no water left. Makes it easier to unwinterize when we first go out in the spring if there is no pink to have to get out.

Welcome to the forum and your new RV.

Dan

henryn · 10-13-2012, 07:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CNYRVer

Thanks for all the input guys. I found the owners manual for the HW heater that was left in a drawer by the guy i bought the Rv from. I looked it over breifly and it says that if your winterizing if there is no bypass valve that you can pull the element and replace it with a 3/4 inch plug. Apparently according to the manual chemicals in the antifreeze will corrode the metal around the element thus shortening its life.
Thanks again guys my wife & I are new the the RV scene so I will be asking alot of questions, right now i just want to get it into my barn so I can renovate the inside and repair the leaking roof that the previous owners say they "fixed".

Hey Dan I see your in Victor Ny we are from West Winfield, Ny which is just south of utica. Happy motoring

Mike & debbie

Good morning, I think the element you are talking about is the anode rod. When we lived in NY (West Point area), I always removed the anode rod and used air to clean out the lines as suggested here. Replacement anode rods are available at almost any rv dealer and I have seen them in Wal-Marts here in NC. Another suggestion is to put some RV antifreeze in your black and grey tanks to prevent the cleanout valves from freezing and possibly cracking. You don't need much, so one gallon should be enough for the valves and the P traps in the kitchen and bathroom sinks. May never have a problem, but why worry about freeze when you can prevent. Best of luck with the class C, safe travels.