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02-12-2017, 05:54 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Prescott, Arizona
Posts: 3,564
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Quote:
Originally Posted by memtb
canuckdave, Not really an answer, but perhaps, something to ponder. Buy a replacement water pump for your rv. When you boondock a lot, a spare may be handy. Set the pump up to draw from your water source, and pump into your fresh water holding tank, via your hose connect. A few plastic fittings, a couple of short sections of water hose, a short piece of pvc pipe( an option..... to place into your water source), and wired to a 12 volt source. We do this often, but use a 55 gal. drum for our auxiliary water source. memtb
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X 2,
I use a 40 gallon water bladder from Camping World. I am not a fan of Camping World but it is the only place I could find the bladder.
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'04 Newmar MADP, 1100w of solar, Rubicon toad
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02-15-2017, 11:02 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Winnebago Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: SoCal
Posts: 1,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4van
Actually, the city fill valve IS after the pump. The city water hookup goes directly into the pressurized side of the system (which is technically after the pump). The city fill valve is simply a valve in that pressurized side that opens a line leading back to the tank. Think of it as just another faucet in your system, but this "faucet" leads back into your tank.
To test that, open your city "fill" valve with no city water hookup and turn your pump on. It will start (and continue) to run, drawing water from the tank, pumping it into the lines, and then depositing it back into the tank.
By using the winterizing valve, the pump pulls water from the container instead, pumps it into the lines, and since the city fill valve is now open, it continues into the tank.
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As an edit, not all RV city fill valves are plumbed this way. My Itasca is, and I know many others have done the same thing. However, I believe that some RV's have the city fill valve plumbed differently, more like a diverter valve as opposed to an on/off valve. In that case, the above procedure would not work. Easy way to test is to do what I suggested above; Turn your city water valve to "tank fill" (with no hose hooked up) and turn on your water pump. If the pump runs continuously, then your winterizing valve and onboard pump can be used to fill your tank from an external source. If not, then your city fill valve is plumbed like a diverter valve instead and the procedure cannot be used.
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You don't stop playing because you grow old...You grow old because you stop playing!
2004 Itasca M30W, 1988 Jamboree S26, 1979 Roll-a-Long Huntington 23
'20 Can Am X3 X RS Turbo RR, '85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310
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02-15-2017, 11:13 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Country Coach Owners Club Solo Rvers Club iRV2 No Limits Club
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Vancouver, WA
Posts: 37,725
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Both our Dutch Star DP's had the plumbing set up to draw antifreeze through the system using the water pump. I could also just put a bucket under the provided hose and pump water into the tank by turning a few valves.
Present rig has a hose fill port (hard to access though due to it's location) or I can activate the auto fill and use the inlet hose to fill the tank.
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2009 45' Magna 630 w/Cummins ISX 650 HP/1950 Lbs Ft, HWH Active Air
Charter Good Sam Lifetime Member, FMCA,
RV'ing since 1957, NRA Benefactor Life, towing '21 Jeep JLU Rubicon Ecodiesel
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02-15-2017, 11:46 AM
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#18
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Moderator Emeritus
Damon Owners Club Workhorse Chassis Owner
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Lone Star State
Posts: 19,203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canuckdave
I ended up buying a second water pump and a few fittings to move the water from my 7 gallon containers. Much simpler and a lot less hastle than trying to use the existing pump. I draw the power off of my car battery. Also, I have a spare pump now in case my other one packs it in.
Thanks for the replies.
Dave
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Please see the OP's post from page 1.
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03-27-2017, 06:04 PM
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#19
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Posts: 25
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Water Pump
I stayed all Winter in Fl Boondocking. This is how i got our water
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