pduggs

Yep. I had to open the motor. The bearings needed a small puller as they are pressed on to the armature shaft. If you don't have one perhaps an auto parts store has one they can lend, a rental place or a local machine shop can press the old ones off and the new ones on.

The way I settled on the motor was that That was the Tiffin tech's diagnosis. When I got the side panel off I took the drive belt off. The motor ran fine, but with a lot of noise. When I rotated the drum by hand it was quiet.

these posts are limited to 1000 characters, so the three below are in reverse order. Sorry

John

To get the motor out, the heat coil cover in the rear needs to be removed. Once the cover screws are out, the diagonal brace on the back needs to be loosened, the same for the rear drum bearing cover. Loosen the screws but they don't need to be removed. Carefully remove the heat coil cover being careful to not bend the fan screwed to the motor shaft. you do not need to disconnect the heat coil and limit switch wires. Remove the 3 screws holding the fan blades. Mark the inner and outer fan blades as they are different. Once the fan is off, you can access the single torx screw holding the motor from the rear. Then pull the 2 torx screws holding the motor from the front, and remove the motor.

At this point assuming the motor is noisy, you can decide if you want to replace the motor or go for the bearings. If you decide to pull the bearings, you'll need a puller to remove the fan blade mount flange before you split the motor and access the bearings.

Hope this helps. John

To disassemble the drier remove the 2 top screws in the top rear corners of the top. The top can then be pushed to the rear about 3/8" and then lifted off. Access to the motor is by removing the drier right side (when you are looking at it from the front. The top front panel needs to be loosened so the side panel screws are accessible. Be careful of the plastic clips on the bottom of the front top piece. Remove the screws that go into the side panel from the rear, and those that go into the front. Once all screws are removed, the side panel can be slid rearward about 1/4" and lifted off. At this point you can get to the belt, motor and motor mount. I removed the belt and ran the motor to confirm the bearings were bad.

To get the drier out, you need to take the compartment doors off and pull the wood block at the bottom front of the drier For this you'll need a #2 Phillips and a #2 square drive. You'll need to access the back of the washer and drier through the access door (in my bedroom behind the sliding door) to unplug the drier. Go outside and remove the two screws in the drier vent cover. They're right at the bottom 2 corners. Use a razor knife to cut the cover caulking around the cover and press the cover UP. This will release the cover. Then you need to remove the stainless screws holding the black drier hose valve. Gently pull it out and release the hose clamp or screws they put to hold the drier hose to the valve. Once the hose is free, pull the drier part way out. Turn it so you can get to the drier hose and remove the hose. The drier is less than 100 pounds, but you'll need 2 people to carry it out.

If you need any particulars, drop me a note. A relatively easy job once I watched them get it out.