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-   -   Dash Panel Replacement ***UPDATE*** (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/dash-panel-replacement-update-140165.html)

Dutch Star Don 10-15-2012 09:24 PM

Dash Panel Replacement ***UPDATE***
 
I'm starting a new thread regarding the dash panel repalcement so that the thread stays on top for awhile.

As promised, I checked on getting new panel inserts from Proto Fab for the older Monaco's. Proto Fab had originally told me that they couldn't sell the panels as it would be a conflict with Monaco. I checked with Monaco figuring they wouldn't offer the panels for older coaches.....:banghead:. I was wrong. Monaco will still sell you the panels. I asked for some ballpark prices. The largest dash panel is about $300.00. The left side driver's panel is abot $150.00. I'm guessing to replace them all will be somewhere in the neighborhood of about $600 - $700.

The panels would be identical to the ones you currently have in terms of material/color. They also told me that there is a number on the back of each panel that identifies it, but they could order new ones without the number. The order takes about 3-4 weeks.

Papa_Jim 10-15-2012 09:41 PM

For me, this is good news. I have been operating under the impression that the dash parts are not available from Monaco, and the original manufacturer of the parts was defunct.

So, I can phone Monaco, and they will supply the parts! ? !

Thanks Don,

What's the phone #?

Dutch Star Don 10-15-2012 10:19 PM

jimkate.....I should have added that Monaco used a couple of manufacturers. Proto Fab is the only one still in business. I don't know how far back they can make the panels. I'm probably going to order mine shortly. If you can get the numbers off the back, even better. I don't want to pull the panels, so I may use a camera probe and see if I can see the numbers.

Just call Monaco parts with your coach ID number and they will tell you if they can order your panels.

H. Miller 10-16-2012 05:52 AM

Does that mean I bookmarked www.custominstrumentpanels.com for nothing:confused:

YC1 10-16-2012 06:04 AM

Hal, That is a great find. I saved the web page. My entry panel has broken corners. I want to have a new one made but have it a bit larger so the corners hold up.

rex 10-16-2012 07:57 AM

Just a note on panels for different year coaches. I replaced my original 2001 Diplomat panel with a 2003 Diplomat panel because of the location of the rear view monitor. I think the outside shape is the same for many years for both the dash and side panel.

Don if you remove the screws for the side panel and lift it up just a bit you may see the numbers. Mine were on a paper tag but the dash was engraved in the back and were large numbers.

Check with Northwest supply. I know they have lots of panels and will offer a better price.

CoryP 10-16-2012 08:02 AM

Thats great news. Thank you for your efforts.


Cory P.

lonestarace 10-16-2012 08:30 AM

Recently I called Monaco about a switch for our 2002 Signature. They told me to contact the panel manufacture "Actia" Bus & Coach 574-264-2373.

If I were replacing panels, I would NOT put the same inferior panels right back in the coach, even if they were free. I'd build, or have built, good panels. But that's just me?

Papa_Jim 10-17-2012 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lonestarace (Post 1341037)
.......
If I were replacing panels, I would NOT put the same inferior panels right back in the coach, even if they were free. I'd build, or have built, good panels. But that's just me?

That's kind of where I've been in my thinking, too. I've been wondering about making dash panels from wood or aluminum. Only reason it hasn't happened is a) I'm dreading the job b) it's far down on the list of things to do.

Dutch Star Don 10-30-2012 10:24 PM

Dash Panel Prices
 
I got my quote today for replacing all 7 dash panels. SIT DOWN!

The total was $840.00 + shipping (shipping price is unknown).

The panel alongside the driver's leg is about $115.00, main dash was $337.00. The other panels were all about $115.00, except the two small ones on the passenger side were $52.00 each.

Coma 10-31-2012 06:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diplomat Don (Post 1356164)
I got my quote today for replacing all 7 dash panels. SIT DOWN!

The total was $840.00 + shipping (shipping price is unknown).

The panel alongside the driver's leg is about $115.00, main dash was $337.00. The other panels were all about $115.00, except the two small ones on the passenger side were $52.00 each.

Is this from Monaco? What are the dash panels made of? If not from Monaco can you spec radio size Din vs double Din? TIA

Midniteoyl 10-31-2012 08:29 AM

I would strip and paint or cover in carbon fiber/kevlar before paying out for the new ones....

86 Cavalcade 10-31-2012 09:21 AM

All, I agree with lonestarace in that I would not pay anywhere close to this amount of money for these thin plastic panels that break and are probably as old as the cracked and broken panel I have. I contacted a manufacturer of panels that will make them one off and was told that if I wanted to know how much it would cost that they would not know that until I sent them my dash panel so they could measure and see how many fixtures it had on the back. I did not think this was unreasonable but I assumed it would be quite expensive and decided not to pursue this option. I think I will buy a piece of 1/8" aluminum and make it myself.The side panel I think would easier to make but the main panel would need to be bent to fit and I don't own a brake to bend it at this time. I may try to get it bent where I used to work. If I were still working I could have made one of these in a few hours. George

lonestarace 10-31-2012 10:10 AM

DIY ideas:

polished aluminum diamond plate, anodized or powder coated to whatever color your heart desires.

or

Wood(maple, walnut, oak, etc) that matches your cabinets

windsorman 10-31-2012 12:45 PM

any idea on how tough it is to just pull the panel next to driver where the hyd jacks and allison panel and switches are on a 2003 monaco windsor.What process should I go thru on removing this.

thanks

Dutch Star Don 10-31-2012 11:18 PM

windsorman......Remove the screws and cup holder. Lift the panel up and start unplugging the vairous switches (label them). The Parking Brake has two screws, make sure you hold your hand under the panel for falling nuts and washers.

I've never had the Allison pane off, but you should be able to access the underside after everything else is disconnected.

windsorman 11-01-2012 11:55 AM

Thanks for the reply,sounds pretty straight forward,I think I will replace with an updated lexan material to keep the cracks away.

Dutch Star Don 12-06-2012 10:25 PM

I got the new dash panels from ProtoFab (via Monaco) today. Apparently, the material/design is still available as these are IDENTICAL to the old ones. The only thing I noticed was that the hole for the radio was originally a din or din and a half. The new hole is a double din. This works out great because I added a larger radio several years ago and had to cut out the opening, which I bugered up and I always saw the mistake.

You may think I'm nuts, but the new ones were $840.00 delivered for seven panels. They're a little more sophisticated than I thought. The main dash panel and heater control panel have threaded studs installed for mounting. I'm heading to Fastenal tomorrow to try and find the screws that Rex had previously recommended in a post.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...m/P1010521.JPG

lonestarace 12-07-2012 08:12 AM

A discount source for the stock dash panels is Northwest RV Supply: DASH ACCESSORIES

YC1 12-07-2012 06:48 PM

Hey Don, I hope you post before and after pictures.

Dutch Star Don 12-07-2012 09:05 PM

The before and after pictures would look the same since it's the exact replacement. I installed all of the panels except the shifter panel today. I know several people said they would/could make their own or they had a custom place they could get them made, but after doing the install today, I doubt you could save any money. You would have to have a custom machine shop to make these parts. I had even thought about taking the old panels out and using fiberglass to repair them and then reinstall with new paint, but the fit is too exact to do this.

The main instrument panel has several studs that are incorporated into the back of the panel to hold the idiot light bar above the speedo. I'm guessing it took three hours or more just to replace that panel. Every gauge has at least 5 wires connected to it and each gauge had to be diagrammed and then removed. I doubt you could find anyone who could custom make all seven of these panels any cheaper. Everything is computer cut and milled so that things fit back exactlyly. I certainly wouldn't want to take my dash apart to send off the pieces to a custom shop and leave the coach disassembled for a month or better.

Before I started this morning, I went to Fastenal and found the black screws with the countersink washer attached (don't recall the name of them) to rpelace the original screws and distribute the stress of the screw better. All the new screws were just lightly snugged.

YC1 12-08-2012 09:04 AM

The screws sound interesting. How about a picture of them. The corners of my entry panel are breaking off due to stress. It sounds like that type of screw would help.

rex 12-08-2012 09:25 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Guys, part of the problem is the screws. The countersunk screw puts pressure on the panel to the point it can cause the crack if the screws are tight or the panel jars and moves.

I replaced all the screws with washer-head black screws when I replaced my panels. These screws don't look as nice as they are not flush, but they spread the pressure point.

Fastenal

Au-Ve-Co Products, or Auto-Vehicle Products.

Part # 0162744 is a black washer head screw #8 x 3/4"

Part # 0162745 is a black washer head screw #8 x 1"

Part # 0162756 is a black washer head screw #10 x 3/4"

Part # 0162757 is a black washer head screw #10 x 1"

You may have to zoom in on the picture to see them well.

Dutch Star Don 12-08-2012 12:42 PM

Here is the screw I used in two different lengths. It's made by Au-ve-co as Rex had posted. Because my dash is black, they look good.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...s/P1010522.JPG


Here is the main panel installed with the new screws.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...s/P1010525.JPG

I originally tried these, but they were too bulky looking.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...s/P1010526.JPG

loranimal 12-08-2012 04:23 PM

I am looking to redo my panels in the near future. Going the 1/8" aluminum route. Mainly to move things around. Some of the switches and vents are in the wrong place for me. I added a few switches over time also. I have a couple waterjets at work so cutting them won't be a problem. Just have to design them out, that will take some time.

But a new polished stainless steel or anodized aluminum panel for the water bay is first. That's my springtime project.

Carl

Midniteoyl 12-08-2012 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rex (Post 1393559)
Guys, part of the problem is the screws. The countersunk screw puts pressure on the panel to the point it can cause the crack if the screws are tight or the panel jars and moves.

I replaced all the screws with washer-head black screws when I replaced my panels. These screws don't look as nice as they are not flush, but they spread the pressure point.

Fastenal

Au-Ve-Co Products, or Auto-Vehicle Products.

Part # 0162744 is a black washer head screw #8 x 3/4"

Part # 0162745 is a black washer head screw #8 x 1"

Part # 0162756 is a black washer head screw #10 x 3/4"

Part # 0162757 is a black washer head screw #10 x 1"

You may have to zoom in on the picture to see them well.

I like exposed screws better anyways :thumb:

DtBt 12-12-2012 02:01 PM

Does anyone have an opinion on my current plan to repair and reinforce the back side if the existing plastic panels where it is cracked with fiberglass cloth and epoxy and cover the front with 3M carbon fiber di-noc? I'll attempt one of the small panels first to see how it goes. It seems like an inexpensive repair and should look a bit more modern. The di-noc looks amazing in the videos, not sure about actual practice.

Dutch Star Don 12-12-2012 08:36 PM

In order for the rocker switches to work, (snap in/lock) the panel thickness has to stay the same.

lonestarace 12-12-2012 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DtBt (Post 1397936)
Does anyone have an opinion on my current plan to repair and reinforce the back side if the existing plastic panels where it is cracked with fiberglass cloth and epoxy and cover the front with 3M carbon fiber di-noc? I'll attempt one of the small panels first to see how it goes. It seems like an inexpensive repair and should look a bit more modern. The di-noc looks amazing in the videos, not sure about actual practice.

Sounds like a good plan.
Let us know how it goes please.


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