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DGShaffer 03-22-2014 04:27 AM

Have a great Summer! I'm sure you'll have a trouble free adventure in your new Challenger.

tedgard01 03-22-2014 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobandshaz (Post 1977996)
Have a safe trip to NM and let's get together while your here. We have kicked our hunt up and now starting to narrow the field to pick the one. Shaz

Looking forward to it. We will head up to the crest at some point anyway, so will be close. We usually get over to El Pinto resturant out on 4th at some point when in town, if you want to go there. Anyway, I'll let you know when we are in town. We will be taking in some sights and visiting some relatives as we make our way there, so it may take us a week or more just to get there.

tedgard01 03-22-2014 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1978047)
Have a great Summer! I'm sure you'll have a trouble free adventure in your new Challenger.

Thanks Don! We hope to make it as good as possible. We also plan to meet another couple that we know from iRV2 and spend some time traveling with them as well. Have fun yourself this summer.

tedgard01 03-22-2014 08:44 AM

One item that is still open from our PDI punch list is the Rapid Camp wireless remote was not programmed to operate the Automatic Leveling Jacks.

I'd like to here from others that have the Rapid Camp wireless remote if they had that issue, and any thoughts you have about using it with the jacks.

It works fine for the slides.

Thanks,
Ted

sbleiweiss 03-22-2014 08:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 1977843)
Did you call Thor for technical support? I would think that they have information on those combination of how the inverter and disconnect work. There are so many RV's that I wonder sometimes how much the general RV guys may really know about your coach.

BTW, did the EMS come with any manuals? I am picking my new 37GT and I was told by the CW service rep that he had to go onto the internet and print the 34 page manual because one was not provided from Thor with the coach. I guess they missed that one... The EMS seems to have a lot of options. There is a setting for amps, for temp, how long the generator runs when it auto starts, even a setting for "Quite Time" hours, etc.

Yes, we called Thor. Thor tech support never ceases to amaze me with how little they know about Thor MH's without having them in front of them. You'd think since they built them they would know what is in them and where to find specific things like breakers, wouldn't you? No clue. The RV dealer we dealt with to trouble shoot this problem said that all the manufacturers except Winnebago have this same problem. He wasn't a solely Winnebago dealer either, by the way.

Good luck with your GT. We just got back from our shake out cruise (to TN) in our new KT. All went well after that initial fiasco the day the trip was supposed to start.

DGShaffer 03-22-2014 04:58 PM

With the thousands of manufacturers items, gadgets, and gizmos Thor installs inside it's line of travel trailers and motor homes would you expect them to be intimately knowledgeable of each type and revision? If you're lucky and get someone that know about a particular item as well as the year of manufacture then you are just that, lucky. Damon had a hotline with guys manning the phones that were pretty good but even then were unable to help me. Always start with the manufacturer, you have a better chance getting someone that knows about their product.

Regarding the automatic leveling, I used the automatic feature once, maybe twice. It's good on an already level lot but rarely do I get one of those. I manually deploy the jacks on the low end or side, this allows the suspension on the unsupported end to collapse slightly. Once the unit is level I deploy the jacks on the opposite end or side just enough to ensure a good footing. Doing this keeps the MH closer to the ground where Automatic mode may require the use of a step ladder. I do agree that if it's installed, it should be operational.

DGShaffer 03-23-2014 10:16 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm done! The entire system has been de-winterized and sanitized and with up upcoming over night low's the lines have all been blown back out. At least now all I have to do is add water and go.

I think someone here asked what I did to make my portable Progressive Industries EMS a bit more secure and user friendly so I'm posting a picture of my shortened pigtail direct to the EMS. From there I use a 30 foot 50 amp extension that is so much easier to feed up through the access door. This leaves the EMS secure in the electrics bay and makes coiling up the power cord much easier.

tedgard01 03-23-2014 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1979674)
I'm done! The entire system has been de-winterized and sanitized and with up upcoming over night low's the lines have all been blown back out. At least now all I have to do is add water and go. I think someone here asked what I did to make my portable Progressive Industries EMS a bit more secure and user friendly so I'm posting a picture of my shortened pigtail direct to the EMS. From there I use a 30 foot 50 amp extension that is so much easier to feed up through the access door. This leaves the EMS secure in the electrics bay and makes coiling up the power cord much easier.

Thanks!

So I think I see a small pigtail hooked up between the EMS and the PI, then you hook up the power cord to the PI.

DGShaffer 03-23-2014 06:26 PM

I'm in my driveway running it off of a 100 foot 15amp extension. The short cord is a 50 to 30 amp pigtail

tedgard01 03-23-2014 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1978771)
.... Regarding the automatic leveling, I used the automatic feature once, maybe twice. It's good on an already level lot but rarely do I get one of those. I manually deploy the jacks on the low end or side, this allows the suspension on the unsupported end to collapse slightly. Once the unit is level I deploy the jacks on the opposite end or side just enough to ensure a good footing. Doing this keeps the MH closer to the ground where Automatic mode may require the use of a step ladder. I do agree that if it's installed, it should be operational.

Ok, tried to level it a few times while we were in the process of moving in from the Dolphin to the Challenger. It is different than what I am used to with the Dolphin. I was on the asphalt parking and drive way at CW, with the Dolphin beside. I wanted to be able to extend the slides to access all the cupboards in the kitchen, etc.

The asphalt had a slop to the passenger side and the front was a bit lower than the rear. I used the Auto Leveling and it failed. That ended up having both front tires off the ground. Consequently I changed and used the manual method.

As you said, I first tried to raise the passenger side, then the front, then simply drop the back jacks to stabilize. I am not sure that I did it correctly, but it was close. At least I thought it was close enough to let out the slides, and that seemed to work fine.

Because it was tilted a bit to the right (passenger) side, before pushing the right side button, I pulled out some jack pads and stuck a few under the right side jacks pads. Then I first raised the passenger (right) side, then dropped the front jacks. I noticed that when the front jacks dropped, it also raised the drivers side a bit too much. I then decided to push the left (drivers side) button, just a quick one to see what would happen. It apparently is smart enough to have recognized that the right needed to be lowered a bit, because it lowered it a little versus raising it more. Therefore I gave it a few more quick pushes, it lowered it several more times until it was almost level from left to right. Does that seem like a normal adjustment to you when doing it manually?

When stabilized the back by dropping the back jacks, it appeared to adjust front to back almost on target as well.

okiefrank 03-24-2014 01:40 AM

Leveling.
 
You said the leveling system failed,, did you have it repaired before leaving the dealer?

tedgard01 03-24-2014 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1980805)
You said the leveling system failed,, did you have it repaired before leaving the dealer?

When I said it failed, I meant that only as a status.

If it is able to auto-level, it displays a "successful" status, if not able to auto-level, it displays a "failed" status.

It is not broke, just could not auto-level due to the surface was not level enough to begin with.

Webman9113 03-24-2014 08:09 AM

I don't remember seeing this anywhere in this thread, so my apologies if this is a repeat. I was wondering about the auto generator start feature and when it shuts off (the switching on part is easy enough). I was just concerned about whether the thing would come on when the house batteries get low and would then just stay on until the fuel level in the tank got below a quarter, when I believe the fuel flow to the generator stops.

I emailed Thor and they indicated that the generator will indeed shut itself off in this mode once the batteries have been "satisfied."

Anyway, just FYI for anyone who might have been wondering about that... :)

Bweiler 03-26-2014 08:16 PM

The auto gen start shuts off at a user adjustable time. The panel to adjust settings is located close by to the inverter in the storage bay. It has various adjustment dials - one being run time. Others are batt voltage based starting (very important to check), temp based starting, and some timing lockouts based on time of day. Gen runtime is adjustable from a minimum of one hour and up. My understanding is that run time is timed - not based off batt voltage. I will have to reread manual.

Webman9113 03-27-2014 03:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bweiler (Post 1984665)
The auto gen start shuts off at a user adjustable time. The panel to adjust settings is located close by to the inverter in the storage bay. It has various adjustment dials - one being run time. Others are batt voltage based starting (very important to check), temp based starting, and some timing lockouts based on time of day. Gen runtime is adjustable from a minimum of one hour and up. My understanding is that run time is timed - not based off batt voltage. I will have to reread manual.

Thanks for that! I'll have to poke around next time I'm at the storage lot and find the panel. I don't recall seeing anything like that in any of the bays, although I do recall seeing the inverter. Any chance you could post a pic? And is the manual included among the ones that come with the coach? I looked for that and could only find the one for the inverter...

bdickson 03-27-2014 04:16 PM

Well, looks like I'll be making the pilgrimage to Elkhart. The windshield on my 37GT popped its seal at both top corners a few weeks ago. I finally got to where a specialist glass company could look at it, They said the windshield needs to be removed and reset with a new seal. All of the dealers in this area contract out their glass work to the company who inspected it, so no way of getting it done locally. I was slightly alarmed by the reaction of the Thor Tech Support guy when I called him. He had a "business as usual" attitude, "Oh, another Challenger windshield popped, we'll take care of it". I just hope the front cap doesn't need to come off. Right now I have an appointment at Elkhart for Monday June 30th.

tedgard01 03-27-2014 07:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 1985040)
Thanks for that! I'll have to poke around next time I'm at the storage lot and find the panel. I don't recall seeing anything like that in any of the bays, although I do recall seeing the inverter. Any chance you could post a pic? And is the manual included among the ones that come with the coach? I looked for that and could only find the one for the inverter...

Did you find it? It is on the roof of the bay in my 2014.5 37GT. There was no manual, but CW printed the 34 page manual from the internet and gave it to me.

tedgard01 03-27-2014 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1985823)
Well, looks like I'll be making the pilgrimage to Elkhart. The windshield on my 37GT popped its seal at both top corners a few weeks ago. I finally got to where a specialist glass company could look at it, They said the windshield needs to be removed and reset with a new seal. All of the dealers in this area contract out their glass work to the company who inspected it, so no way of getting it done locally. I was slightly alarmed by the reaction of the Thor Tech Support guy when I called him. He had a "business as usual" attitude, "Oh, another Challenger windshield popped, we'll take care of it". I just hope the front cap doesn't need to come off. Right now I have an appointment at Elkhart for Monday June 30th.

Oh no.... What do I look for? I just got my 2014.5. Does anyone know if they made any manufacturing production line changes that may have corrected this in the latest models?

DGShaffer 03-27-2014 07:25 PM

Sorry to hear this Bruce. How did it happen?

bdickson 03-27-2014 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 1986076)
Oh no.... What do I look for? I just got my 2014.5. Does anyone know if they made any manufacturing production line changes that may have corrected this in the latest models?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1986084)
Sorry to hear this Bruce. How did it happen?

This happened last month. We had been parked in an RV site for 4 months. At first we thought it was caused by an ice storm causing rain water to freeze and push the windshield out. The auto glass specialist who looked at it today said he didn't believe that was possible. At the same time, the side seal where the front cap attaches to the side panel split away for about 12 inches on each side, level with the V10 badges. This was repaired by a dealer who removed the trim strip and re screwed and caulked the seam. The glass guy is coming up with theories that revolve around some kind of severe torquing of the front end. I cannot recall anything like that happening. He also said it's possible the windshield opening in the cap was incorrectly cut at the factory. I assume the fiberglass is molded in one solid piece and then the openings are cut out with a jigsaw.

The windshield problem is pretty easy to spot. Stand beside the coach and look straight up and see if there is a gap between the black windshield seal and the fiberglass. In my case there was a gap big enough to put my fingers through. The glass guy sealed it up with black silicone caulk and tomorrow I'll finish it off with black duct tape.

Webman9113 03-27-2014 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 1986069)
Did you find it? It is on the roof of the bay in my 2014.5 37GT. There was no manual, but CW printed the 34 page manual from the internet and gave it to me.

Not yet! I'll check it out this weekend when I make my weekly check on The Beast in the storage lot.

DGShaffer 03-28-2014 04:43 AM

What a pain in the butt! When I was at the factory and driving around the area while they were making the repairs, I was amazed at how many fiberglass vendors their were. Some truck with two parts, some with 10 on trailers. You could smell the resin as you passed these manufacturing places. My thoughts are that they have many different vendors for these caps.

sbleiweiss 03-28-2014 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1986118)
This happened last month. We had been parked in an RV site for 4 months. At first we thought it was caused by an ice storm causing rain water to freeze and push the windshield out. The auto glass specialist who looked at it today said he didn't believe that was possible. At the same time, the side seal where the front cap attaches to the side panel split away for about 12 inches on each side, level with the V10 badges. This was repaired by a dealer who removed the trim strip and re screwed and caulked the seam. The glass guy is coming up with theories that revolve around some kind of severe torquing of the front end. I cannot recall anything like that happening. He also said it's possible the windshield opening in the cap was incorrectly cut at the factory. I assume the fiberglass is molded in one solid piece and then the openings are cut out with a jigsaw.

The windshield problem is pretty easy to spot. Stand beside the coach and look straight up and see if there is a gap between the black windshield seal and the fiberglass. In my case there was a gap big enough to put my fingers through. The glass guy sealed it up with black silicone caulk and tomorrow I'll finish it off with black duct tape.

Exactly what you describe happened to our 2013 DT; both the windshield and the side seams (and more) (you can read about our nightmares with it if you find the old posts). They eventually found that the cap was not secured properly (at all?) to the frame at the roof level. They could not see that until the windshield was out. We traded it for a 2014.5 and haven't had any similar problems (yet - knocking on wood). I have a theory which I have posted here before that Thor encountered problems in production during the transition from Damen to Thor. Hopefully they have solved them by 2014.5. For you 2013 owners, you may just have to slog through the fixes and heartaches.

Bweiler 03-29-2014 02:56 PM

My 2014.5 was delivered about 45 days ago. Just noticed today that we have a windshield issue similar to what others describe. At the bottom outer passenger corner - you can see a gap and move the windshield by hand. Any feedback from others on additional issues to look for or if this is a dealer capable repair ?

bdickson 03-29-2014 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bweiler (Post 1988322)
My 2014.5 was delivered about 45 days ago. Just noticed today that we have a windshield issue similar to what others describe. At the bottom outer passenger corner - you can see a gap and move the windshield by hand. Any feedback from others on additional issues to look for or if this is a dealer capable repair ?

I showed mine to two dealers and they both said they would refer it out to an auto glass specialist. So I had said specialist come look at it and he recommended getting it repaired at the factory. My appointment is June 30th. He filled the gaps with urethane sealant and told me to watch for any cracking or peeling which would indicate the gap is getting worse.

rvbunz 03-29-2014 08:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1988618)
I showed mine to two dealers and they both said they would refer it out to an auto glass specialist. So I had said specialist come look at it and he recommended getting it repaired at the factory. My appointment is June 30th. He filled the gaps with urethane sealant and told me to watch for any cracking or peeling which would indicate the gap is getting worse.

On my way to Thor for warranty work. Stopped at rest area on Ohio for the night turn on the heat and won't stay running. Tried to light stove, no luck_, guess I'm out of had. Indicator days I'm full. Glad I have plenty of blankets.

bdickson 03-29-2014 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1988700)
On my way to Thor for warranty work. Stopped at rest area on Ohio for the night turn on the heat and won't stay running. Tried to light stove, no luck_, guess I'm out of had. Indicator days I'm full. Glad I have plenty of blankets.

at the risk of asking dumb questions, is the valve turned on?

rvbunz 03-29-2014 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1988716)
at the risk of asking dumb questions, is the valve turned on?

Yes it is. I was using the heat on below freezing nights to keep the coach heated and my fridge was operating on lp while driving today. Must have run out while driving

rvbunz 03-30-2014 03:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1988723)

Yes it is. I was using the heat on below freezing nights to keep the coach heated and my fridge was operating on lp while driving today. Must have run out while driving

Stayed warm under the covers. Woke up at 3:30 got up at 4 looked outside and it snowed. Could use some lp right now.

DGShaffer 03-30-2014 05:27 AM

That sucks! If the valve on the tank read full there's no way you would run out over night. At least you're going to a place that can fix it.

When you see Steve, tell him I need an answer to an email I sent him on Saturday.

rvbunz 03-30-2014 05:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1988958)
That sucks! If the valve on the tank read full there's no way you would run out over night. At least you're going to a place that can fix it.

When you see Steve, tell him I need an answer to an email I sent him on Saturday.

Will do

bdickson 03-30-2014 06:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1988964)
Will do

Me too! I emailed Steve Thursday to confirm my June 30 appointment that Greg in Tech Support said he was going to set up for me. Thanks!

Mwoodofd 03-30-2014 07:13 AM

Hope your location sells propane. We stayed in Cuba, Missouri for the night. We will see you later today Bob. Drive safe.

sbleiweiss 03-30-2014 09:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1988723)
Yes it is. I was using the heat on below freezing nights to keep the coach heated and my fridge was operating on lp while driving today. Must have run out while driving

You should know if you have used enough to be empty. How long since you filled? Another thing to check. I think there is a safety mechanism that locks out all lp devices if the CO/propane monitor is turned off or not functioning.

Webman9113 03-31-2014 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 1986069)
Did you find it? It is on the roof of the bay in my 2014.5 37GT. There was no manual, but CW printed the 34 page manual from the internet and gave it to me.

Yes, I found it, just where you indicated. Sort of an odd place to put it, though, as it's a tad hard to read the indicators. Could you let me know what the model # and manufacturer is from your documentation? I'd like to see if I can look that up on the web and read the manual so I have a clue what I'm doing with it. :-)

Musikboy 04-03-2014 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1459840)
Here is a copy of the PDI inspection checklist that I found online and modified for my Challenger. There is absolutely no substitute for a line by line checklist when buying something as complex and expensive as a motor home. You'll also find things on the drive home at which time you adjust your punch list

If you find this useful I can email you an Excel version to modify

Thank you for posting the checklist. I would like an excel version. I also located an app on my iphone called RV Checklists which was priced at $0.99. Being the big spender I am :) I decided to try it out and wow, it's very cool. Your list could easily be loaded into this app and provide an easy way to make it available to others as well as use it.

We are going to be picking up our new Thor Tuscany 36MQ in a few weeks, :dance: so all these are very interesting to me.

Thanks again,
Mitch

DGShaffer 04-03-2014 07:23 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Here's one to look out for. I was working in the bay under the dinette slide while the slide was out. I happen to look up and noticed the center roller plate had a odd mark on one edge. Further investigation showed that the plate was installed to the wrong side of the line they marked at the factory and therefore the roller was rolling along the bottom of the slide and not on the plate.

To fix this I cut a piece of .09" thick aluminum 39" long and 6" wide. I finished one end to a not so sharp knife edge. With the slide extended and a jack taking off a little weight from the slide I hammered the plate in between the roller and the bottom of the slide then screwed it in place. The result is smoother and quieter operation of the slide!

The first photo shows the wear from the roller binding on the edge of the plate. The second shows the line they're on the wrong side of!

Bweiler 04-03-2014 08:08 PM

Just wondering if there is any feedback on battery life using the inverter to power fridge before the auto gen start kicks in? I know there are a bunch of variables - but I only seem to be getting about an hour and a half using only fridge before gen start kicks in at 11.5volts. I would certainly like to run longer off battery - guess I could adjust start voltage down to 11 volts - but I am thinking of adding 2 extra batteries - looks like there is room if you turn batteries sideways

DGShaffer 04-04-2014 04:45 AM

Reducing the voltage will buy you another 15 minutes maybe. Adding more, better, larger capacity along with a high end solar array would be the only way to store and replenish. These new units with their residential refers don't have boondocking in mind

sbleiweiss 04-04-2014 07:43 AM

I will be at Thor for warranty work starting Monday 4/7 (actually getting there Sunday evening). Anyone else from the forum going to be there then?

rvbunz 04-04-2014 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1995977)
I will be at Thor for warranty work starting Monday 4/7 (actually getting there Sunday evening). Anyone else from the forum going to be there then?

I'll be leaving today. Sorry I missed you.

DGShaffer 04-04-2014 08:35 AM

Be sure to take a look under your slides in case the roller plate is on the wrong side of the roller like mine was!

Mwoodofd 04-04-2014 07:29 PM

Bob, did you get completed today? Hopefully, you can get on the road and back home. I enjoyed the new factory tour, and the time we got to visit. I appreciate all the effort Thor is putting into our MH.

I flew home last night, got home at 2 am with the weather in the Dallas area. My coach will not be complete until next Tuesday afternoon, and possibly Wednesday. I am going to fly back up there the 17 th, and start home on the 18 th. Drive safe, and we will meet up on the road again.

Claudia44 04-05-2014 04:06 PM

Windshield wipers
 
Just bought a new set of wipers and it cost me $89.45:sad:. So I plan on removing the arms and buying a whole new kit. Should have lasted longer than a year, too:mad:.

DGShaffer 04-05-2014 05:14 PM

There are links on this site for shorter blades that accept the large arms. Saves a lot of money although they clear a slightly smaller area.

I use pre-split foam 1/2" pipe insulation to cover the blades which shields them from damaging UV

tedgard01 04-06-2014 11:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 1991419)
Yes, I found it, just where you indicated. Sort of an odd place to put it, though, as it's a tad hard to read the indicators. Could you let me know what the model # and manufacturer is from your documentation? I'd like to see if I can look that up on the web and read the manual so I have a clue what I'm doing with it. :-)

Hi. I have been out of pocket for several days making my way from NC to NM. I will look tomorrow and see if I can get you what you needed for this manual.

Webman9113 04-07-2014 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 1999820)
Hi. I have been out of pocket for several days making my way from NC to NM. I will look tomorrow and see if I can get you what you needed for this manual.

Thanks for that! But I actually did just find it, I think (at least, it looks like the unit in the coach): the Magnum Energy Auto Generator start. Here's the link, if you can confirm that it's the same gadget, and if anyone else needs the documentation. This actually looks like a really nice feature that not only can keep the batteries charged, but will also come on when the thermostat(s) want to kick on the AC units. When we travel during the summer, we usually wind up just leaving the generator on so we don't have to mess with turning things on/off. But this should save us a bit of gas on the next big trip...

Here's the link: https://magnumenergy.com/wp-content/u...3-ME-AGS-S.pdf

tedgard01 04-09-2014 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 1999906)
Thanks for that! But I actually did just find it, I think (at least, it looks like the unit in the coach): the Magnum Energy Auto Generator start. Here's the link, if you can confirm that it's the same gadget, and if anyone else needs the documentation. This actually looks like a really nice feature that not only can keep the batteries charged, but will also come on when the thermostat(s) want to kick on the AC units. When we travel during the summer, we usually wind up just leaving the generator on so we don't have to mess with turning things on/off. But this should save us a bit of gas on the next big trip... Here's the link: https://magnumenergy.com/wp-content/u...3-ME-AGS-S.pdf

Looks correct to me.

kndogpa 06-22-2014 09:49 AM

C/W problems in Las Vegas
 
For those that are tired and fed up with having to deal with C/W, Johnny Walker RV is now a certified Thor dealer and warranty repair shop. I have dealt with Johnny Walker through 3 other rigs over 12 years and have always been happy with them. When we decided to buy our 2014 Challenger 37KT, the only downside was having to use C/W as a repair shop. Now that that is fixed we are very happy with our Thor, love the floorplan and I have even gotten used to the gas engine. (last MH was a DP) We gave up about ,5 MPG duel economy and gained $.25 to $.75 cheaper fuel along with a lot cheaper maintenance, the difference in power is not a problem as we drive a little and park for a week to 2 weeks. Looking forward to going full time in 2 yrs, have one more child to got into college.

kndogpa 06-22-2014 10:30 AM

Challenger man cave
 
I don't know about man cave, but I do have one heck of a nice Dog House when I need it. I have 50A service water and sewer on my property and the MH is with us all the time plugged in and ready to use, it also doubles as a great 2nd kitchen for big get togethers. We have owned our Thor since 9/2014, bought it at MHSRV in Tx and could not have been happier with the service we received, Rodney sold me the MH pretty much over the phone and we flew in to pick it up, were met at the DFW airport by them, give a new chev suv to drive for the 3 days we were there and the couple of items we found on PDI, they took care of quickly and correctly. I have enjoyed this thread a lot and have learned a great deal of things about the MH, some of which I have already done and others that are on my honey do list.

Musikboy 06-22-2014 10:43 AM

We keep our Thor Tuscany on our property and love the convenience of having it there. Like you described, it's plugged in to shore power all the time, our fridge is stocked and we are ready to go with 15 minutes notice.

We are still in our 1st year and little things go wrong here and there, nothing has stopped us and hopefully we remain mostly trouble free for a long time but ready should something go wrong. Being mostly new to this lifestyle we did buy a warrantee and a coach-net membership. So hopefully we can handle what comes our way.

We still have so much to learn but everyone has been so friendly and helpful, we are delighted to be part of this whole community.

So far, thor has been responsive to phone calls when we have problems. We have only CW available to us here in metrowest Boston area for Thor service and we have an august appointment scheduled to handle a bunch of little issues and one larger issue. I hope it goes well.

kndogpa 06-22-2014 11:26 AM

2014 37 KT ice make
 
I have a Whilrpool residential fridge that does not have the ice make installed. There is hook ups in the freezer for an ice maker. My question has anyone found the ice maker that belongs/fits this fridge and where did you get it?

sbleiweiss 06-23-2014 08:15 AM

So glad this forum came alive again. I missed the moring MH talk. We just returned from California (about 5000 miles round trip) and ate way too well in San Francisco. I have two questions. Our gray water tank sensors are showing full even after dumping. they must be gunked up. Anyone have a good fix? Second, at one campground we got moths in the MH overnight. About a dozen of them. Anyone else have this problem or find how they get in?

DGShaffer 06-23-2014 08:29 AM

It is good to see some activity. We used to keep our Challenger on our property but now have it at an off site lot. We're still using it every other weekend so we bring it to the house on Thursday night and leave Friday. We just got back from a weekend near the shore where we were able to take the bike out for breakfast and a nice morning ride.

Regarding the maintenance of the tanks, I found this posted here but can't find the post. Luckily I have it save on my FB page:

It's called the Geo Method

By Charles Bruni
cbruni@mindspring.com
Renton, Washington
U.S.A.

Everyone who owns an RV should be concerned with maintaining its wastewater tanks. Problems with wastewater tanks can and should be avoided. Wastewater tank repair is expensive. Due to health concerns, many service facilities will not work on wastewater tanks and lines until the tanks have been completely emptied and sanitized. This may be quite difficult when the tank(s) is in need of repair. So, common sense dictates that the tanks should be kept relatively clean at all times. Additionally, improper use of the wastewater tanks can lead to a build up of solid wastes, which in itself may cause the system to fail.

I've discovered very simple, effective, and inexpensive methods of maintaining my wastewater tanks in a relatively clean condition at all times. I developed these methods myself through my understanding of chemistry, physics, and biology with a smidgen of common sense thrown in for good measure. I also read my RV owner's manual. Although we are not full time RVers we use our fifth wheel camper at least one weekend a month. We never use public bathing and toilet facilities. In other words, our wastewater tanks are fairly heavily used. Since I've met a number of RVers who don't seem to know how to maintain their wastewater tanks I thought many RVers would find my tips useful. If you have not been maintaining your tanks I believe you will be pleasantly surprised the first time you employ these tips. I do these things and they work.

RVs are equipped with waste water HOLDING tanks; NOT septic tanks. Those holding tanks are nothing more than chamber pots. Chamber pots should be cleaned and sanitized after their contents are disposed of. The Geo Method is based on this fact.


1. DUMP A FULL TANK

When you are camping and your RV is connected to a sewer/septic intake, leave the drain valves closed until the tank is full and ready to dump. Dumping a full tank provides a sufficient quantity of water to flush solids from the tank. Leaving the drain valves open allows the water to drain off without flushing out solid waste. That solid waste will collect in the tank(s) and cause problems over time. If your tanks are not full when you are ready to dump them, fill them with fresh water first, and then dump them.


2. DUMP TANKS IN ORDER FROM DIRTIEST TO CLEANEST

In other words, dump the black (commode) water tank first, then dump the galley tank, then dump the bathroom tank. This way you will be flushing out the dirtiest water with progressively cleaner water.


3. USE WATER SOFTENER, DETERGENT, and CHLORINE BLEACH

This stuff is amazing and it works. Buy a couple of boxes of powdered water softener at the grocery store. You'll find it located with or near the laundry detergent products. I prefer Calgon Water Softener because it dissolves quickly in water. Cheaper water softeners work just as well but dissolve more slowly. Dissolve two (2) cups of the water softener in a gallon of hot water. Then, pour the solution down the drain into the empty tank. Use two cups of softener for each wastewater tank in your RV. The tank's drain valve should be closed otherwise the softened water will just drain out. Then use the tank(s) normally until it is full and drain it normally. Add a cup of laundry detergent to the black (commode) water tank at the same time you add water softener. This will help clean the tank. The gray water tanks should already contain soap through normal use.

The water softener makes the solid waste let go from the sides of the tanks. If you've ever taken a shower in softened water you know that after rinsing the soap from your body your skin will feel slick. That's because all the soap rinses away with soft water. Softened water also prevents soap scum from sticking in the tub. Get the connection? With softened water gunk washes away instead of sticking. The same thing applies to your RV's wastewater tanks.

I use a clear plastic elbow connector to attach my sewer drain line to the wastewater outlet on my RV. It allows me to see how well things are progressing during a wastewater dump. Before I began using water softener regularly the black water tank's water was brown, the galley tank's water was brownish, and the bathroom tank's water was white. The first time I added water softener to the tanks the water coming from the black water tank was actually black (not brown) and the kitchen tank's water was also black (not brownish). The bathroom tank's water remained white. That told me that the water softener had actually done what I had intended for it to do and made solid waste, which had been stuck to the interior of the tanks, let go and drain away. I added water softener (and laundry detergent to the black tank) to all the wastewater tanks for the next few dumps to be certain all the solid waste possible had been cleaned away. The wastewater only appeared black on the initial treatment. I now add water softener and detergent to each tank once after every few dumps to maintain the system.

Too little water softener may not be of sufficient concentration to work effectively. Too much water softener will NOT hurt the tanks. So, if the amount you used didn't quite do the job, then use more the next time. Don't forget the laundry detergent.

Occasionally, I pour a half gallon of liquid bleach into each tank to deodorize, sanitize and disinfect them. I add the bleach when the tank is about half full, and then continue to use the tank normally until it is full and ready to dump. I no longer use the blue toilet chemical because it isn't necessary. I have no odors coming from my black water tank. The chlorine bleach kills the bacteria, which is primarily responsible for waste water tank odor. Generic brand liquid bleach is cheap and very effective.


4. USE A WATER FILTER ON YOUR FRESH WATER INTAKE LINE

Most fresh water contains sediment. Sediment will accumulate in your wastewater tanks and your fresh water lines. It also tends to discolor your sinks, tub/shower, and commode. I use the disposable type and have found that they eventually fill up and begin restricting the fresh water flow resulting in low pressure. That's how I know it's time to get a new filter. It works, it's cheap, it avoids problems, do it. When I fill my fresh water tank I attach the filter to the end of the hose and fill the tank with filtered water.


SOME OTHER THOUGHTS

WATER, WATER, WATER - and more water! The Geo Method assumes you are hooked up to a plentiful clean water supply, and that you have access to a sewer. The water softener will make the gunk let go. That's only half the battle. After the gunk lets go it must then be flushed through the relatively small drain opening in the bottom of the tank. That takes water. Lots of water.

Will The Geo Method work even if most of the time I'm NOT hooked up to water and sewer? YES! Just use common sense. If you dry camp ninety percent of the time just keep water softener and detergent in your tanks (especially the black tank) while you're dry camping. This will keep gunk from sticking to the tanks. When you are hooked up to sewer and water take the opportunity to fill the tanks with fresh water and flush the tanks. Keep flushing them until the water runs clear. I know it works because I've done it.

Never put regular toilet tissue in your RV's black tank. Only use toilet tissue which is approved for RV and/or septic tank use. Regular toilet tissue may eventually dissolve, but not before causing a clog in your black tank.

I believe occasionally traveling with partially filled wastewater tanks that contain softened water promotes cleaning by agitating the water. The same goes for chlorine bleach.

I believe this process works faster and more efficiently during warm weather. However, I know it works well even during cool/cold weather.

I believe the process works best the longer the water softener remains in the tanks. So, I don't add water softener during periods of heavy wastewater generation. I wait until I know we won't be generating wastewater quickly so that the softened water remains in the tanks for several days before dumping.

If you have an older RV you may have to use water softener and detergent several times initially to completely clean the tanks of residue.


I add a small amount of chlorine bleach to the fresh water tank twice a year to disinfect and sanitize the fresh water tank and fresh water lines. A weak chlorine bleach solution will not hurt you. However, it certainly makes the water taste bad. When we have chlorine in the fresh water system we use bottled water for drinking and cooking until the chlorine is gone. YES, we drink the filtered water that we have in the fresh water tank. NO, it has never tasted funny or caused any problems.

No, I do NOT do the ice cube thing. The Geo Method works just fine without ice cubes.

My tanks are plastic and my pipes are PVC.

Don't be afraid to use your tanks. Just use common sense about their care and maintenance.

These tips are inexpensive to do. Some of them don't cost anything. You have nothing to lose in trying them and I encourage you to do so. I actually feel a certain amount of pride in the condition and cleanliness of both my waste and fresh water systems. Naturally, these tips make dumping a much more pleasant and sanitary procedure.

If you have odors in any of your water systems these procedures should eliminate them. Odors indicate a sanitary problem and degrade the enjoyment you derive from your RV.

When my RV is parked and not in use I place stoppers in the sink and tub drains. This forces the wastewater tanks to vent through the vent pipes to the outside instead of through the drains into the RV. Water evaporates. Once the drain traps dry out during periods of non-use, nothing is there to prevent gasses (odor) from venting into the camper. Use stoppers when your RV is stored.

copyright(c) 2004 Charles Bruni

Webman9113 06-23-2014 08:46 AM

I wanted to give folks a little heads up about a couple of things that we've come across in our 2014.5 37KT while on our summer road trip to New England (which so far has been a blast).

The first one is to be aware of how the refrigerator is mounted in case it ever has to be removed for service/repair. The water line behind ours was leaking and it had to be removed, of course. The warranty repair, which was performed by LazyDays in Tampa, fixed the leak, but the whole bloody fridge nearly fell out of the cabinet when we made a slow but tight left turn up a ramp into a Flying J some miles down the road. Had my older stepson not been on the couch and had the presence of mind to leap up and shove it back in, the fridge would have tumbled right down the steps into the entry door.

Upon inspection, we found that the fridge is secured by two small brackets at the bottom that are screwed into the cabinet. There are two larger brackets at the top, also screwed to the cabinet, and secured to the refrigerator only with padded double sided tape - there are NO screws from the brackets into the fridge. When LazyDays fixed the water leak, they didn't replace the tape (which had, not surprisingly, lost its stickiness) nor leveled the fridge properly and levered it up to make full contact with the tape/brackets (there was about a 1/16" gap). Our first hint of something being amiss was the doors not staying shut the first couple days of the trip, which had never before been a problem. I already expressed my ire to LazyDays (to be honest, we didn't have that great a service experience with them, especially for the small fortune I dropped there for some other work I had done) and will sort that out when we return home.

We held the fridge in with duct tape until we reached our first multi-night stop, in Maryland, and were able to make arrangements to get into a repair shop. That itself was no easy task - out of the four places we called, only Custom Coach in Baltimore agreed to squeeze us in, so big kudos to them. One of their techs removed the existing top brackets, drilled holes that would fit over the spare door hinge holes in the top of the fridge (they didn't want to drill holes in the fridge itself for fear of hitting something, I'm don't remember what), then remounted the brackets with bolts that screwed right into the hinge holes. Unfortunately, with us being on a tight schedule - we were literally on the road from Maryland north to NYC - they weren't able to take the time to get everything just right, so the fridge is still not level. However, it IS secure in the cabinet and getting it leveled and the brackets adjusted should be pretty easy, and we'll wait on that until we get home.

Issue number two is something that everyone having a Challenger with the slides that have two sets of tracks (or whatever they're called) on the forward sides should do: periodically inspect the bolts. We were trying to put out the driver side forward slide when it seemed to catch on something on the forward end, while the back kept on going out. After pulling it in and carefully repeating the process a couple times, I finally saw that the outermost bolt on the top forward slide had come loose and was binding on the edge of the slide opening in the rig. Binding is probably too mild a term: when I finally worked the thing loose (even with the slide all the way in I could barely get to it), I found the bolt was actually bent from the force of the slide.

With the slides safely out, I looked at all the bolts on both sides: I would say about half a dozen, almost all on the top slide brackets, were coming out, and at least two, when I screwed them back in, just twirled away in their holes, stripped. The track where the bolt had gotten stuck was actually separating from the slide.

I plan to just keep an eye on them until we get home and add that to our list of a few other minor warranty items (stuff like a couple cabinet door hinges that are loose) that need fixing.

Other than that and a few minor design quibbles, we love the Challenger 37KT, especially after adding a trac bar and Safe-T-Plus. :cool:

bronk 06-24-2014 02:04 PM

The post concerning the grey water level indicator registering full when in fact the tank is empty is exactly what ours started doing last month. I was advised to use DRAINO with a full tank of grey water. I will try this next week on our way back from downeast Maine. Since we will be stopping in Bangor for a few days before heading back to KY, I will be able to dump the grey water and see if there is a difference in the level indicator. The roads here are rough enough so as to provide a good "sloshing" action to hopefully clean the sensors in the tank. I will keep you posted as to result.

Bronk

sbleiweiss 06-24-2014 05:54 PM

Thanks Don. Very helpful!

HavaneseMom 06-26-2014 10:49 AM

Geo Method
 
DGShaffer, Thanks for the info on the Geo Method. I plan to start using it as my tanks aren't gunked up yet and I want to keep them that way.


BTW, does anyone know where the water pump is on the 2012 DT model? It's not near the fresh water tank like the manual says and I haven't been able to locate it. I want to check the filter on it as I'm not getting water when I turn the pump on.

rvbunz 06-26-2014 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HavaneseMom (Post 2111354)
DGShaffer, Thanks for the info on the Geo Method. I plan to start using it as my tanks aren't gunked up yet and I want to keep them that way.

BTW, does anyone know where the water pump is on the 2012 DT model? It's not near the fresh water tank like the manual says and I haven't been able to locate it. I want to check the filter on it as I'm not getting water when I turn the pump on.

If it is in the same place as the 2013 it's in the bathroom under the closet near shower

Mgoldfinger 06-26-2014 03:15 PM

Water pump not working 2012 Challenger DT
 
I had that same experience and it turned out to be a valve
was not turned back in the correct position (from winterization).
It's located in or next to the bay where the hydrolics are..

DGShaffer 06-27-2014 10:48 AM

On my 2013 37DT the water pump is behind a louvered panel between the door to the toilet and the shower as mentioned above.

Your problem could be with the valve in the bay that has the tube for siphoning the antifreeze. This is the bay on the passenger side just behind the rear wheels. There are two valves, one for the siphon hose and one to bypass the water system to allow you to draw in the antifreeze. It's a 1/4 turn valve so just try turning opposite it's current position.

rvbunz 06-27-2014 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 2112668)
On my 2013 37DT the water pump is behind a louvered panel between the door to the toilet and the shower as mentioned above.

Your problem could be with the valve in the bay that has the tube for siphoning the antifreeze. This is the bay on the passenger side just behind the rear wheels. There are two valves, one for the siphon hose and one to bypass the water system to allow you to draw in the antifreeze. It's a 1/4 turn valve so just try turning opposite it's current position.

Hey DG
What kind of tire pressure are you running on your DT. I'm running 90 but another one of our DT owners had his Coach weighed and adjusted his pressure to 80 in the front and 85 in the rear. He says his ride is much smoother

DGShaffer 06-27-2014 11:08 AM

That might have been me Bob. We had a PM side line conversation where I mentioned those exact pressures. If it wasn't, then that's what I'm running.

rvbunz 06-27-2014 11:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 2112697)
That might have been me Bob. We had a PM side line conversation where I mentioned those exact pressures. If it wasn't, then that's what I'm running.

Thanks

bdickson 06-30-2014 08:24 AM

I'm running 90 front 95 rear as recommended by Hendersons when they did a 4 corner weigh in last year. I was pretty close to the GVWR limit.

rvbunz 06-30-2014 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2116352)
I'm running 90 front 95 rear as recommended by Hendersons when they did a 4 corner weigh in last year. I was pretty close to the GVWR limit.

I'm not carrying a heavy load so I've lowered my pressures to 80 in the front and 85 in the rear. I'm not full timing like you so I believe I'm much lighter.

DGShaffer 07-01-2014 04:47 AM

After weighing my Outlaw and seeing how heavy I was, I really only pack for my trips these days. I was surprised how light I traveled when I got my corners weighed last summer. I've only got about 10k on it so far but as I check tire temperatures on the road, none are getting hot and the wear seems normal.

Mwoodofd 07-01-2014 08:12 AM

I ran 80 in the front and 85 in the back on our trip from DFW to Michigan the last 10 days, and the ride has been much better in terms of road noise from the joints, etc, but the sway is a little more noticeable. I do have a steering stabilizer and rear Trac Bar installed, and have not tried the CHF. Was running everything at 90, and the Michelin chart says, according to my weight, to run 70 in the front, and 75 in the backs. We also travel light, and I am going to get weighed again just to confirm. I am afraid to run the tires that low.

tedgard01 07-01-2014 08:45 AM

Where do you get weighed?

Mwoodofd 07-01-2014 09:28 AM

Most truck stops have Cat Scales that you can pull thru and get weighed by the axel (not each corner). You can find places to weigh each corner, you just have to look and/or call to see if they can accommodate. At least getting weighed by the axel gives you an idea of where your weight is, and you can compare the weight with the tire manufacturers inflation chart to see where you can try different pressures to see what works best for you.

rvbunz 07-01-2014 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mwoodofd (Post 2118061)
Most truck stops have Cat Scales that you can pull thru and get weighed by the axel (not each corner). You can find places to weigh each corner, you just have to look and/or call to see if they can accommodate. At least getting weighed by the axel gives you an idea of where your weight is, and you can compare the weight with the tire manufacturers inflation chart to see where you can try different pressures to see what works best for you.

Mark still waiting for you to tell me we'll see you in Myrtle Beach. LOL

bwaddell 07-03-2014 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1487893)
You guys are a great bunch. I look forward to seeing what you have to say each day or so. I also like that you don’t get your panties in a bunch when you get an opinion that may differ from your own. It truly is the least painful way to learn. If you feel I'm jacking something up, I expect you to say so. Thanks again for all the great discussions.

With that being said, my next mod is the LED lights across the awnings. I recently went to the RV show in Baltimore and the new thing is LED's. I'm not so big on that but, the one mod I did see is the permanent white LEDs lengthwise across the awning tube. The kit was stupid expensive and because I'm a cheap, I found all the supplies to make my own at a tenth of the cost. If you’re interested, let me now and I’ll get enough for a few kits, work out the bugs and send them to you.

I have just recently purchased the LED soft white lights at Camping World. Had them installed and they work great. Attached them to the side of my coach so that when the awning rolls up, they are underneath the roll instead of at the end of the roll with the awning rolled out. Light is not glaring, but is light enough to read a book at night under the awning. Mine came with a dimmer remote where you can cut light power down from 100% to 75% to 50% or 25%. My remote isn't working correctly and will be taking it back to CW. Beats buying and hauling the trampoline around.

Have just begun reading all in this thread. Have just gotten turned onto the Challenger and would love to have one. Currently own a 31' Class C Sunseeker and maybe trying to sell my wife on an upgrade.

ctpres 08-26-2014 10:37 AM

Challenger shopper
 
Currently shopping for 37kt and found LOTS of good info on this thread. I like the tone of posts and hope to soon be posting about our new Challenger.

DGShaffer 08-26-2014 10:47 AM

Good luck and never forget the importance of doing a thorough pre-delivery check whether it's new or used! Finding issues on the lot is much better than on a maiden voyage as you read so many stories about here on the forum.

This is also a great source for ideas on modifications once you own one.

ke3su 09-07-2014 06:20 AM

I recently purchased a 37KT from a CW here in NJ. Mistake buying it from CW but anyway. I have numerous issues which I am working out with Thor. Thor has been very good to work with. CTPres, one issue I have that maybe generic to a 2014.5 build is that the waste ( gray and black ) is piped to the black tank. I have not had this repaired yet. Once I have all my issues repaired, I will absolutely love my MH. I'm not sorry I bought it! ;)

tedgard01 09-07-2014 07:03 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ke3su (Post 2217799)
... one issue I have that maybe generic to a 2014.5 build is that the waste ( gray and black ) is piped to the black tank. ...

What do you mean that the gray and black is piped to the black? Is there a gray tank, but no water goes to it? Is there a grey water valve separate from the black water? If there are two valves, do you mean that nothing comes out of the gray water tank? I have a 2014.5, a 37GT, no issue that I am aware of.

Ted

ke3su 09-07-2014 07:53 AM

There are actually 2 grey tanks and 1 black tank. Mid gray tank is for the washing machine only. Back grey tank is for shower and sinks, both kitchen and bathroom. Black tank for the toilet. All piping is piped to the black tank vent. Thor identified the issue and has told me how to resolve it. I have not yet been able to get the MH into a repair facility yet to resolve this. This is on the 37KT 2014.5.

sbleiweiss 09-08-2014 06:29 AM

I have a 2014.5 37KT and don;t have that problem. sure wish I could send some water to that mid-gray other than washing machine though.

M72561 09-08-2014 06:27 PM

rubber slide adhesive
 
I'm looking on some input on a good adhesive for my rubber seals on my 2014 Challenger 37KT . It is peeling off the outside coach wall. It is the flat seal

Thanks

Mark Welch

LyonsL 09-13-2014 08:35 PM

We ordered a 2015 Challenger 37KT and have owned it for about 6 weeks. We had a few minor issues with it but I was able to make all of the repairs myself. This is the 3rd Thor motorhome that we've owned and the build quality on this one is the best! We love the floor plan and we're looking forward to snowbirding in it this winter!

DGShaffer 09-14-2014 06:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2227450)
We ordered a 2015 Challenger 37KT and have owned it for about 6 weeks. We had a few minor issues with it but I was able to make all of the repairs myself. This is the 3rd Thor motorhome that we've owned and the build quality on this one is the best! We love the floor plan and we're looking forward to snowbirding in it this winter!

Having a warranty is a wonderful thing but entrusting a repair to a shop other than the factory is another. I had my GT at the factory towards the end of the warranty period for a repair that a local CW created. While there, they went through it from bumper to bumper.

On the way home from that trip the entry step motor failed! I went to AutoZone, bought a new motor, installed it in 15 minutes myself. Had I taken it to CW it would have been there one or two weeks.

ctpres 09-14-2014 07:49 AM

My efforts to convince DW that we NEED a new and larger coach and specifically the 37KT just went two steps backwards. Yesterday we went to see one at Katy TX Camping World. Big mistake. I have never seen new one in such bad shape. I understand dealers not wanting to fix things until they have a sale - but hood open 4 -5 inches on one side. Was afraid to even touch it. Six inch wide maybe 12 ft long top trim from rear slide laying on floor so you could not test passenger seat or couch, more very loose, i mean falling off, trim on same slide, dented convection and more. Now DW thinks all Thor 37KT's will be like that. Just a couple hours of tech time and they probably would have had a sale yesterday.

sbleiweiss 09-14-2014 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2227450)
We ordered a 2015 Challenger 37KT and have owned it for about 6 weeks. We had a few minor issues with it but I was able to make all of the repairs myself. This is the 3rd Thor motorhome that we've owned and the build quality on this one is the best! We love the floor plan and we're looking forward to snowbirding in it this winter!

We love that floorplan too. Congrats on the new coach.

J.Mack 10-02-2014 08:30 AM

I see a lot of posts' on the slide-outs problems on the Palazzo. Does the new Challenger use the same slide mechanism and is there any problems?

DGShaffer 10-02-2014 08:47 AM

The problem on the Palazzo was with the full wall slide. I have had my three slides in and out at least 100 times since I bought my Challenger 37DT.

rvbunz 10-02-2014 06:04 PM

I had issues with my slides. Went to Thor service center for corrective action. The newer Challengers should be ok.

Mwoodofd 10-03-2014 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J.Mack (Post 2252703)
I see a lot of posts' on the slide-outs problems on the Palazzo. Does the new Challenger use the same slide mechanism and is there any problems?

Same as Bob. Took my Challenger to the factory to have the slide mechanisms fixed, and they did a great job, no problems at all, driven 7000 miles since. The service center seems to work with the "Just Fix It" attitude, and we are very happy with our results.

Bweiler 10-03-2014 06:41 AM

In the newer models they reinforced the slide better (changes in sides and bottom plates vs prior years) - as last poster said the full wall slides are the main issue. On the 37Kt the back (large) slide is actually a cable slide. The front 2 slides with the mechanism that caused issue are relatively small and light in comparison.

DGShaffer 10-03-2014 07:08 AM

I was looking at the underneath of one of the slides and noticed that the glide plate was installed to the wrong side of the mark made in the factory and the roller was rolling on the wood and not the metal glide plate. I made and installed one in the right location. You can see the wear marks being made on the old one to the left of the one I installed
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...1&d=1396570894

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...0&d=1396570894

ctpres 10-04-2014 10:37 AM

New 37kt inventory?
 
If you recently purchased a 37kt what were the loose items that can with it? I want to inventory all the loose items before we drive out with the new one Monday.
So far my list looks like this:

Sikens four color touch up paint kit
Complete set of manuals
Two complete sets of keys
8 or 9 remote controls?????
front table and leg
drop down bunk ladder
2 pillows
2 shams
1 trash bin
4 chairs

tedgard01 10-04-2014 03:32 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2255551)
If you recently purchased a 37kt what were the loose items that can with it? I want to inventory all the loose items before we drive out with the new one Monday.....


My 37GT also had;

Two folding chairs for the table (under the bed)
An extension leaf for the table
A air mattress and pump for the cab drop down bed
A second air mattress and pump for the pull out bed in the couch
The matters for the master suite (be prepared to replace, Amazon; DynastyMattress Deluxe 10-Inch Memory Foam Short Mattress for RV, Camper-QUEEN Size: H10"x W 60"x L 75", $359, better than the SleepNumber at home.
A QuickCamp remote and charger (mine did not have the charger), and check the programming for all functions
A wrench for the full house water filter
Lug nut wrench for the aluminum wheels
Appliance war entry cards (be sure to register them, don't believe the dealer when they say they will)
Slide locking bars (keep them in the event you have a slide issue and need to lock them in when traveling)
Screw in lock for the refrigerator doors (to prevent them from opening during travel)
Shelves for inside the refrigerator
Ice maker bin
Turn table tray and base for the Microwave / Convection oven
Backing shelf for the Convection oven
Microwave / Convection oven manuals and warranty
I had a stackable washer & dryer installed (other parts, manuals, warranties), if no W/D than the closet shelving
I don't know if you are to have a front entry stair cover pad (mine didn't, wish it did, especially when using the pull out bed)
50 amp shore power cord

I can't think of anything else at the moment.

Ted

ctpres 10-05-2014 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2255896)
My 37GT also had;

Two folding chairs for the table (under the bed)
An extension leaf for the table
A air mattress and pump for the cab drop down bed
A second air mattress and pump for the pull out bed in the couch
The matters for the master suite (be prepared to replace, Amazon; DynastyMattress Deluxe 10-Inch Memory Foam Short Mattress for RV, Camper-QUEEN Size: H10"x W 60"x L 75", $359, better than the SleepNumber at home.
A QuickCamp remote and charger (mine did not have the charger), and check the programming for all functions
A wrench for the full house water filter
Lug nut wrench for the aluminum wheels
Appliance war entry cards (be sure to register them, don't believe the dealer when they say they will)
Slide locking bars (keep them in the event you have a slide issue and need to lock them in when traveling)
Screw in lock for the refrigerator doors (to prevent them from opening during travel)
Shelves for inside the refrigerator
Ice maker bin
Turn table tray and base for the Microwave / Convection oven
Backing shelf for the Convection oven
Microwave / Convection oven manuals and warranty
I had a stackable washer & dryer installed (other parts, manuals, warranties), if no W/D than the closet shelving
I don't know if you are to have a front entry stair cover pad (mine didn't, wish it did, especially when using the pull out bed)
50 amp shore power cord

I can't think of anything else at the moment.

Ted

Now that is the kind of list I need. WOW thanks a bunch.

ctpres 10-07-2014 07:11 AM

We Did It! New 37KT in RV drive
 
Just starting to crawl around, open things and learn in general. So far - two questions.
1. Where to store front overhead bunk ladder?
2. I think there is a major item inventory list with model and serial numbers, can't find it.

bdickson 10-07-2014 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2259177)
Just starting to crawl around, open things and learn in general. So far - two questions.
2. I think there is a major item inventory list with model and serial numbers, can't find it.

In my 2013 37GT the list is stuck to the inside of a bedroom closet.

tedgard01 10-07-2014 08:11 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2259177)
... 1. Where to store front overhead bunk ladder? ...


Do you have room behind the couch? That is where mine is stored. I also have a GT though, so may not be the same....


Ted

jcullipher 10-07-2014 10:10 PM

New question guys, I have a 2013 Challenger 37DT and I have conversed with some of you about our issues. The question is, What kind of roof is on these coaches? It feels similar to fiberglass. Thanks.

bdickson 10-08-2014 05:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2260430)
New question guys, I have a 2013 Challenger 37DT and I have conversed with some of you about our issues. The question is, What kind of roof is on these coaches? It feels similar to fiberglass. Thanks.

I think it is a TPO membrane. I toured the Thor factory in July and saw the vacuum press where they laminate the walls and roof panels. The guide showed us scraps of the material. It is a flexible polymer bonded to a woven base. This is then glued to the outer plywood sheath in a vacuum press. He told us the same material is used for flat roofs in large buildings like Walmarts. I understand it has a 10 year warranty.

DGShaffer 10-08-2014 06:09 AM

Yup, it's a single big sheet rubber roof. I also took the tour and watched two guys each grab a corner of a roll and walk down both sides of the coach on scaffolding.

jcullipher 10-08-2014 07:53 AM

Thanks for the info, it obviously was not like the rubber roof on my fiver. The texture and look were totally different

sbleiweiss 10-08-2014 08:29 AM

Back to an old topic. I just installed TireMinder on our 2014.5 37KT. It showed all tires considerably overinflated except one which was underinflated. Of course the underinflated one was an inner duelly. So I lowered the overinflated ones to 90 pounds each. I inflated the underinflated one to that. I am hoping that it was just low and not leaking. We'll see if it holds now. I'll report back. If it needs attention who fixes leaking tires, Ford or RV dealer?


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