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DGShaffer 10-08-2014 06:50 PM

Most RV dealers can't handle the larger tires so you're left to heading to a truck center. Could have been the pressure sensor leaking. I had a TST sensor leave me stranded with a flat.

tedgard01 10-08-2014 08:58 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2260785)
Back to an old topic. I just installed TireMinder on our 2014.5 37KT. It showed all tires considerably overinflated except one which was underinflated. Of course the underinflated one was an inner duelly. So I lowered the overinflated ones to 90 pounds each. I inflated the underinflated one to that. I am hoping that it was just low and not leaking. We'll see if it holds now. I'll report back. If it needs attention who fixes leaking tires, Ford or RV dealer?


A good tire store that works on truck tires. Should not be a problem finding one.

What type of stems do you have? Many leaks on inner dually are caused by the bradded type stems when they are not attached to a stable brace that prevents them from working loose. The inner dually tire is impacted more due to the length of the bradded tube and therefore more pressure placed on the threads where it connects to the smaller stem. Replacing them with a good set of solid metal stems that extend through the hole in the outer rim may be a better solution, if you do have the bradded stems.

Ted

sbleiweiss 10-09-2014 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 2261551)
Most RV dealers can't handle the larger tires so you're left to heading to a truck center. Could have been the pressure sensor leaking. I had a TST sensor leave me stranded with a flat.

Thanks Don, but this was low as soon as I measured it. Not due to the sensor letting out air. I will check it one of these days and see if it is holding at 90. Your point is a good one though. I'll check all of them to make sure no sensor is letting air leak out.

sbleiweiss 10-09-2014 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2261751)
A good tire store that works on truck tires. Should not be a problem finding one.

What type of stems do you have? Many leaks on inner dually are caused by the bradded type stems when they are not attached to a stable brace that prevents them from working loose. The inner dually tire is impacted more due to the length of the bradded tube and therefore more pressure placed on the threads where it connects to the smaller stem. Replacing them with a good set of solid metal stems that extend through the hole in the outer rim may be a better solution, if you do have the bradded stems.

Ted

I don't have the braided stems, or any type of extended stems. that is why it was so hard to get to and add air. I asked about extended stems at my dealer. they said they had seen so many problems with them that they wouldn't install them. What does this forum say about that? Are many of you using extended stems on inner duellys?

DGShaffer 10-09-2014 05:21 PM

I use the Dual Dynamics Crossfire system. I had it on my Outlaw so I added one to the Challenger as well. I don't run a tire monitoring system after I had a bad experience with TST. After that I found the Crossfire and believe in it. Although all it's really made for is to equalize the pressure between the duals as the temperature changes and pressures change along with it. There is a visual pressure indicater on them which requires you to get out and look at it so I got into the habit of keeping an eye on my pressures at stops. It also allows you to add air to both tires at the same time through a single stem. I've had it on since new which is over 11,000 miles so far and I've only added air once and it was super easy.

tedgard01 10-09-2014 09:49 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2262156)
I don't have the braided stems, or any type of extended stems. that is why it was so hard to get to and add air. I asked about extended stems at my dealer. they said they had seen so many problems with them that they wouldn't install them. What does this forum say about that? Are many of you using extended stems on inner duellys?


Okay, so you don't have that as an issue then. Just a thought.

BTW, I was not recommending extenders, but a stem that is longer and extend through the hole in the outside wheal. In othewords, there is not a stem, and then an extension hooked onto the stem, it is simply a stem that is longer in itself. An extension allows more points of failure, a longer stem does not. I have a longer stem that extends through the hole on the outer wheal, which allows easy installation and removal of my sensors.


Ted

DGShaffer 10-10-2014 06:15 AM

Teds solution for this issue is always the best way to go if you want to be able to add a sensor or make it easier to add air. It's an expensive venture seeing as how the tires have to be dismounted off of the rims to add the longer stems.

Installing the Crossfire was a PITA getting to the inner valve stem but well worth the effort. The connection uses a mechanical stainless steel fitting that doesn't come loos or leak.

sbleiweiss 10-10-2014 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2263163)
Okay, so you don't have that as an issue then. Just a thought.

BTW, I was not recommending extenders, but a stem that is longer and extend through the hole in the outside wheal. In othewords, there is not a stem, and then an extension hooked onto the stem, it is simply a stem that is longer in itself. An extension allows more points of failure, a longer stem does not. I have a longer stem that extends through the hole on the outer wheal, which allows easy installation and removal of my sensors.


Ted

Ted, where did you get that longer stem? Can you put it on yourself? If not, who puts it on for you. I like the idea.

DGShaffer 10-10-2014 09:07 AM

You can install them if you can get that massive 22.5 wheel apart and back together :eek:

Stems are installed from the inside of the rim :sad:

rvbunz 10-12-2014 07:41 AM

Ted, I had the stainless steel long valve stems from Dulley installed. All one piece warranted for life and not to leak. Like $120.00 for a complete set.

tedgard01 10-12-2014 09:32 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2263573)
Ted, where did you get that longer stem? Can you put it on yourself? If not, who puts it on for you. I like the idea.


You can get them online or at your local shop.

As Don said, I would not try to install them yourself. I would have a good shop that has experience with truck tires install them. Also as Don said, expect to pay more than just extensions, along with some installation cost, but in my opinion well worth it.


Ted

tedgard01 10-12-2014 09:37 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 2266003)
Ted, I had the stainless steel long valve stems from Dulley installed. All one piece warranted for life and not to leak. Like $120.00 for a complete set.


Bob, where did you get them and did the $120.00 include installation cost or was that an additional cost?


Ted

JohnG2013KT 10-13-2014 07:18 PM

Hey Guys .... This evening I was doing some maintenance .. walking around the driver's side of the RV .. I noticed that the door for the battery / hydraulics was not lined up with the door next door .. it was sticking out significantly ... When I pushed on the panel, it was loose!!!! ... the door seems ok, but the covering panel is very loose? ... I will be calling Thor tomorrow and will report back ..

tedgard01 10-14-2014 06:48 AM

Thanks, and keep us informed....


Ted

ctpres 10-14-2014 07:00 AM

New 37KT Inventory list
 
New 2015 37KT inventory
List of items that could be missing on new Challenger 37KT at delivery

Four chairs (two are folding)
Air mattress and pump for overhead drop down bunk
One ladder for overhead drop down bunk
Air mattress and pump for couch pull out bed
Whole house water filter and wrench
Decorative wheel nut wrench and handle
Two slide locking bars
Frig travel lock
Two frig shelves
Frig ice maker bin
MWC turntable tray
MWC baking rack
Three MWC cooking bowls
Paint touch-up kit with four colors
Eight remotes: 4 TV, 1 DVD, 1 dash radio, 1 fireplace and 1 Rapid Camp
Rapid Camp charger
Front table and leg
Six pillows: 2 couch, 2 bed and 2 pillow shams
Two sets of 7 keys: 1 ignition, 2 door keys, 1 exterior TV, 1 hood, 1 overhead bunk and 1 basement
One fire extinguisher
One 50 amp power cord

ctpres 10-15-2014 08:36 AM

Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
Made over 100 mod's and upgrades to our Damon. It's one of my fun things in life and just getting started on our new Challenger.
#1 left/rear closet door hit the valance and would not open fully. Valance secured to wall with two L brackets and one screw each, just look up inside and between wall and roller shade. Three hands needed. Removed screws, moved valance about 1/4 inch and reinstalled screws. Now door opens all the way for easier access to closet.
#2 Sliding doors rattled during travel and finish was being rubbed off or being scratched at the bottom door guides. Removed screw caps and two VERY long screws, installed felt pads on both sides. No more rattles and finish protected.
#3 Bathroom door hitting latch plate and hard to close. Marked edges of latch plate, removed it and cut out 1/8" thick plastic trim behind plate. There was a bit of play with door closed so I removed latch plate and bent the inside prong a bit. Now door closes with ease and does not move or rattle underway.
#4 Was looking for a good place to store TV remotes and finally settled on using Command strips with Velcro like backing. Now remotes are stored on the inside of cabinet doors next to each TV.
#5 Screen door hard to close and not enough adjustment range in latch plate to solve problem. Finally figured out that door was somewhat curved so top and bottom hit first and extra effort required to pull center in far enough to engage latch. Be careful - do this in gradual steps - don't try to adjust door the first time. Hold door firmly in center with one hand and push out at top and then bottom with the other hand. Test and repeat with a bit more pushing effort until door nearly straight. There needs to be a small amount of warp in door. If you bend it to much there will be bug holes.
#6 Bottom of pleated shades on cockpit side windows hitting dash. Hard to close and looked awful with bent pleats. Remove screw caps, screws on wall between seatbelt and window and the retaining strap. Remove rear and middle track brackets so rear end of track drops below valance. Slide shade rollers off the end. Put shade on big table and pencil mark bottom of shade at cut line - about 1 1/2 inch in my case. Cut off with a good pair of scissors and reverse above steps to reinstall with one exception. Top of shade was hitting rear end of valance making the last couple inches of closing difficult. Rather than installing the three side screws in the same hole - I let shade hang in normal/relaxed position and drilled new holes. I tested use with and without the wand and decided the wand just got in the way and things worked better without it. Now they close with ease and look much better closed.

JohnG2013KT 10-15-2014 10:07 AM

Talked with Thor this morning. I've got to say that I am becoming disillusioned with Thor more and more .. The 'tech' told me to take the coach to an 'authorized' Thor dealer and have it repaired. OK .. So I ask him since this was obviously a factory defect ( I looked closer at the door yesterday and it's obvious that the double sided tape or glue was incorrectly applied as it was rolled up) if this would be covered under warranty and he said no .. As the coach was over a year old .. grrrrrr ..
Will just fix it myself .. When I ask what the factory used, he was clueless .. but he did offer up that Gorilla glue would work .. or .. get this .. I could order a new door from Thor ... LOL

ctpres 10-15-2014 01:50 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#6 Our 2010 Damon Daybreak and our 2015 Thor Challenger came from factory with only one smoke detector. I was in alarm business for over thirty years and am not aware of any code that would allow that. Without the details - there must be a smoke detector in EVERY sleeping area and one outside sleeping area. In the 37KT floor plan that means THREE detectors. I added two before we even spent the first night in our new RV. One in front and rear sleeping areas. Detectors exactly like the one in our 2015 are available from Lowes, $9.47 for a package of two. Lowe's item number 304184 or First Alert number FG200B2. Do your family a favor and be sure you have enough detectors for your floor plan. If you are not sure how many you need - PM me with floor plan and length of RV. Basically if there is a door or even curtain between existing detector and a bed - there needs to be a detector added.

DGShaffer 10-19-2014 06:47 AM

4 Attachment(s)
So up until now I've been using a couple of local guys that run a mobile detailing service to wash and wax my MH twice a year. All in with a tip it ran $550.00. They really did a nice job and I've always been happy with the end result.

Well I had a few days off after a trip north to Lake George NY so I washed it like a usually do. Since I'll be covering it soon it's now time to call my friends and have it waxed and detailed. Having an extra few days I though I'd wax it myself.

I constructed a scaffold out of a 2x12 using my nifty versatile ladder that converts to two A-frame stands. Next I researched wax's and found that the best wax reviewc was for the Turtle Wax Carnuba T6 and surprisingly the most affordable. Then I bought a cheap $23.00 10" DA buffer and some extra polishing pads and buffers. I had recently purchased a 30 pack of Quickie micro fiber pads to do the final rub down.

Not including the wash I gave it the day before I estimate I'm in it about 8 to 10 hours. That includes the polishing of the wheels and applying Mothers Back to Black on all the black latches and window frames.

Some how $550.00 doesn't seem so expensive anymore. Although, no one does a better job than an owner and I can't help but think my friends might be using spray on detailing wax because my MH never had such a mirror like finish.

I'm proud of my effort and sore as hell, especially my knee from getting on and off the scaffold (would have been worse if I had tried using a ladder).

tedgard01 10-19-2014 09:37 AM

Great job!


Ted

ctpres 10-19-2014 07:43 PM

Inverter powered outlets
 
Still checking things out on our new 37KT. Decided to test frig on inverter and it worked fine for about five hours before reaching 10.5 volts (auto gen start not tested yet). While it was on inverter I decided to see what other outlets were on and working. All three inside TV's (not outside) and 110 outlet on wall near dash computer desk. Don't see much need for TV on the road - but having 110 for computers will be nice.

ctpres 10-20-2014 08:23 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#8 Sorry had two #6. Bathroom under sink storage floor is about 12 inches above main floor. Since water heater and furnace were located in other places I wondered what could be in that space. Using my borescope I found that it was mostly empty space. Only some plumbing and electrical running along the back edge. The panel covering the hole is secured with a bunch of 1/2 inch staples. I removed the front panel by wedging a putty knife between the cabinet frame and thin panel covering then pushed a flat blade screwdriver between panel and putty knife to keep from damaging the cabinet frame. Once the panel was removed it was simply as case of removing remaining staples and cleaning up the mess left over from construction. So Now we have storage for over 24 rolls of toilet paper or whatever else DW decides to store there.

sbleiweiss 10-20-2014 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2276329)
Still checking things out on our new 37KT. Decided to test frig on inverter and it worked fine for about five hours before reaching 10.5 volts (auto gen start not tested yet). While it was on inverter I decided to see what other outlets were on and working. All three inside TV's (not outside) and 110 outlet on wall near dash computer desk. Don't see much need for TV on the road - but having 110 for computers will be nice.

That outlet by the computer desk is live off the alternator when driving even if the inverter/refrigerator aren't in use.

ctpres 10-20-2014 08:34 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#9 After removing and reinstalling the Rapid Camp remote in the holder a few times, I finally figured out it was not seating fully in the holder. The two mounting screws were round head and stuck out far enough to keep remote from snapping in as it should. Just replaced them with flat head screws and done.

ctpres 10-20-2014 08:40 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
10. Suspected there would be a lot of saw dust in the floor heating ducts. Yup and I mean a bunch. Removed floor vents, put long flexable hose extension on vac and two full dust bags later I could run furnace with no dust coming out.

ctpres 10-20-2014 11:09 AM

Anderson four way selector valve
 
Found this good description of the four way water selector valve operation.

(1). Fill the On-Board Tanks
(2). Pressurized Water Directly to the Fixtures
(3). Pump from the Holding Tank to the Fixtures
(4). Draw Winterizing Fluid from a Bucket into the Holding Tank, Lines and Fixtures.
(5). Sanitize the Tanks, Lines and Fixtures with the On-Board Pump
(6). Fill the Holding Tank from a Bucket or Stream when City Pressure is not available

As usual one question answered leads to another question. Does anyone know where the hose for drawing bucket water is?

tedgard01 10-20-2014 12:28 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2277141)
Found this good description of the four way water selector valve operation. (1). Fill the On-Board Tanks, (2). Pressurized Water Directly to the Fixtures, (3). Pump from the Holding Tank to the Fixtures, (4). Draw Winterizing Fluid from a Bucket into the Holding Tank, Lines and Fixtures, (5). Sanitize the Tanks, Lines and Fixtures with the On-Board Pump, (6). Fill the Holding Tank from a Bucket or Stream when City Pressure is not available. As usual one question answered leads to another question. Does anyone know where the hose for drawing bucket water is?


Where did you find this description? My expectation would be the same hose connection used for city fixtures, and you would supply the hose.


Ted

tedgard01 10-20-2014 12:37 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2276958)
#9 After removing and reinstalling the Rapid Camp remote in the holder a few times, I finally figured out it was not seating fully in the holder. The two mounting screws were round head and stuck out far enough to keep remote from snapping in as it should. Just replaced them with flat head screws and done.


Could you please provide a picture of this holder and where it is located? In my 37GT, I don't think it has a holder.


Ted

ctpres 10-20-2014 01:02 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
11. Sliding doors were not plumb with wall or each other for the double's when closed. Door hangers/sliders are adjustable. Use a very thin 3/8" open end wrench and turn nut (at each of the two hangers between top of door and ceiling track) a little at a time and check results. You can raise or lower each end of the door. If doors are very close to ceiling wood trim, it may be necessary to remove them to get a wrench on the nuts. Look for a small tab on top of door bracket. It rotates unlocking the slider and then you can move the slider out of the slot.

ctpres 10-20-2014 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2277278)
Where did you find this description? My expectation would be the same hose connection used for city fixtures, and you would supply the hose.

Ted

On this website: the description I posted came from this page:
https://https://www.andersonbrass.com/rv_TEST.PHP

And this page - see colored drawings
https://https://www.andersonbrass.com/...ll_station.php pretty much confirms your thinking. Need to test and see. As usual two heads are better than one.

ctpres 10-20-2014 01:56 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2277292)
Could you please provide a picture of this holder and where it is located? In my 37GT, I don't think it has a holder.


Ted

37KT Rapid Camp holder is on wall at bathroom door. It looks a bit like a cell phone holster. Brass colored screws are the ones I put in.

tedgard01 10-20-2014 04:40 PM

I don't think I had a holder, and certainly not one on the wall. Thanks for the picture.


Ted

ctpres 10-20-2014 04:55 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#12. Had drop down bunk ladder stored behind couch just laying around. Found some 1 inch capacity spring clip broom holders and mounted two of them on wall. Press ladder into clips and one less rattle.

okiefrank 10-20-2014 07:12 PM

What is a rapid camp remote and what does it do. I don't have one in my 37GT

tedgard01 10-20-2014 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 2277782)
What is a rapid camp remote and what does it do. I don't have one in my 37GT


What year is your 37GT? I may be wrong, but I think they may have started delivering them in the 2014 (and possibly the 2014.5 model). It is a remote that you can use to lower the jacks, extend the slides, open the awning, and turn on the outside light, within ~50' from the coach.

I find it most useful when extending the slides from the outside where you can see any obstructions, etc.


Ted

okiefrank 10-20-2014 08:09 PM

Ours is a 2013,, as usual day late dollar short..

ctpres 10-21-2014 07:08 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#13. This one was for rodent and big bug entry prevention. Power bay has very big deck plate that leaves lots of open space for critter entry when 50 amp cable is in use. Solution 50 amp cable hatch installed on floor next to deck plate. Did same thing but with two 30 amp cable hatches for city water and tank flush hoses. Since we use Sewer Solutions for dumping I slightly enlarged the existing 50 amp cable hatch to accommodate the dump hose. Now wet bay and power bay are rodent and relatively bug proof. Ants will still be a problem - but maybe someone else can solve that problem. Cost: under $30 and less than one hour.

ctpres 10-21-2014 08:26 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#14. With our now higher ceiling DW can't reach knobs to open vents or turn power on/off. I heated 1" PVC and flattened the end. Cut notch to fit knob on Fantastic Fan. Then notched bathroom fan knob to work with the same tool. Original version was just two foot long 1" pipe. Did not like look or feel so I cut off the tool end and fastened it on an old broom handle. Installed 1" broom clip in pantry for tool storage and done. Now she can open or close both vents and turn bath vent on with end of broom handle.

ctpres 10-21-2014 08:44 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
Sorry - picture for #13 didn't make it so I'll try again. If anyone wants pictures of others - just reference the number.

sbleiweiss 10-21-2014 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2277560)
I don't think I had a holder, and certainly not one on the wall. Thanks for the picture.


Ted

We don't have a remote or holder with our KT. Was this an option?

tedgard01 10-21-2014 10:45 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2278368)
#14. With our now higher ceiling DW can't reach knobs to open vents or turn power on/off. I heated 1" PVC and flattened the end. Cut notch to fit knob on Fantastic Fan. Then notched bathroom fan knob to work with the same tool. Original version was just two foot long 1" pipe. Did not like look or feel so I cut off the tool end and fastened it on an old broom handle. Installed 1" broom clip in pantry for tool storage and done. Now she can open or close both vents and turn bath vent on with end of broom handle.


I like this idea, as my wife is just over 5' tall.... I would like to put it on the broom in use vs having another handle around. I guess you just heated it with a touch to flatten it. How did you recommend that I flatten the end and keep it smoth? I assume you cut the notch out after flattening it...


Ted

tedgard01 10-21-2014 10:49 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2278395)
We don't have a remote or holder with our KT. Was this an option?


I don't think it was an option, but they probably started providing it with the 2015 model...


Ted

tedgard01 10-21-2014 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2278283)
#13. This one was for rodent and big bug entry prevention. Power bay has very big deck plate that leaves lots of open space for critter entry when 50 amp cable is in use. Solution 50 amp cable hatch installed on floor next to deck plate.


I see the picture of the water hose hatch. Could you also provide a picture of the mod for the 50 amp cable as well? How did you cut the hole inti the base plate? Where did you get the hatches from? Did you have to modify the hatch by cutting the hole larger?

If I remember correctly, Don had a custom hatch hole cover that he designed some time ago that was medal and hinged, it would be nice if he could provide a picture and any thoughts about his mod and possible use in these applications?


Ted

DGShaffer 10-21-2014 04:42 PM

This was my mod to remove the preinstalled hose storage pipe under the bay

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...0&d=1362929741

https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...9&d=1362929741

ctpres 10-21-2014 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2278578)
I like this idea, as my wife is just over 5' tall.... I would like to put it on the broom in use vs having another handle around. I guess you just heated it with a touch to flatten it. How did you recommend that I flatten the end and keep it smoth? I assume you cut the notch out after flattening it...


Ted

I actually used a heat gun but with patience you can get PVC warm enough to bend and shape using a good hair dryer on HI. Flame of any kind is last resort. When heated enough to bend I put end between two pieces of thin plywood and pressed it in a vise. Notch was cut after heating, bending and cooling enough to touch.
Putting on existing broom handle is even better idea.

ctpres 10-21-2014 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2278603)
I see the picture of the water hose hatch. Could you also provide a picture of the mod for the 50 amp cable as well? How did you cut the hole inti the base plate? Where did you get the hatches from? Did you have to modify the hatch by cutting the hole larger?

If I remember correctly, Don had a custom hatch hole cover that he designed some time ago that was medal and hinged, it would be nice if he could provide a picture and any thoughts about his mod and possible use in these applications?


Ted

Pic of 50 amp will have to wait a few days - having camera problems and may need to get a new one.
I used a 3" hole saw to cut thru bottom of wet bay for 30 amp hatches and 3.5" hole saw for power bay 50 amp hatch.
Bought 50 amp hatch from Amazon and 30 amp from Ebay
One hose fit perfectly, another required a small amount of work with a rat tail file. The Sewer Solutions hose required a bit more work due to being so stiff, but still not a big deal.

tedgard01 10-21-2014 11:25 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 2279020)
This was my mod to remove the preinstalled hose storage pipe under the bay



https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...0&d=1362929741



https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...9&d=1362929741


Thanks Don.

I wonder if you could make that with a part of the lid cut out to accommodate a water hose or the 50 amp cord. Then have a small piece that could swing over and cover the cut out section when not in use?


Ted

DGShaffer 10-22-2014 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2279658)
Thanks Don.

I wonder if you could make that with a part of the lid cut out to accommodate a water hose or the 50 amp cord. Then have a small piece that could swing over and cover the cut out section when not in use?


Ted

I could :D

ctpres 10-22-2014 02:30 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#15. Took dump hose storage off old RV and finally found a place to put it on our new 37KT. Looked at just about every undercarriage location and for one reason or another decided no go on the bottom. I figured pass thru storage was to valuable to waste and if dump hose was still a bit stinky from being used we would regret it. The battery and lift system bay is open all the way thru to the steps and gets lots of ventilation. At first glance mounting hardware to the steps looks nearly impossible - but it turns out to be easy. With just a little bending you can sit up on the street side of the drive shaft. I did not go into details on the fence post part as it is not really new and has been discussed many times.

tedgard01 10-22-2014 10:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2280468)
#15. Took dump hose storage off old RV and finally found a place to put it on our new 37KT. Looked at just about every undercarriage location and for one reason or another decided no go on the bottom. I figured pass thru storage was to valuable to waste and if dump hose was still a bit stinky from being used we would regret it. The battery and lift system bay is open all the way thru to the steps and gets lots of ventilation. At first glance mounting hardware to the steps looks nearly impossible - but it turns out to be easy. With just a little bending you can sit up on the street side of the drive shaft. I did not go into details on the fence post part as it is not really new and has been discussed many times.


Nice job!


Ted

JohnG2013KT 10-23-2014 01:59 PM

OK .. I'll admit it .. I'm stumped .. I can't figure out what to use to remove the screws holding the hinges on the storage doors? The screw heads look to be torx, but nothing I've found will work? Any thoughts?

As mentioned last week, I have one door where the outer skin has come loose from the frame . I need to remove it so that I can lay it flat and re-glue and clamp.

ctpres 10-23-2014 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 2281827)
OK .. I'll admit it .. I'm stumped .. I can't figure out what to use to remove the screws holding the hinges on the storage doors? The screw heads look to be torx, but nothing I've found will work? Any thoughts?

As mentioned last week, I have one door where the outer skin has come loose from the frame . I need to remove it so that I can lay it flat and re-glue and clamp.

Just had occasion to remove one door and had no problem. Removed screws from frame leaving hinges on door. Believe it was S2. a square drive not the splined.

ctpres 10-25-2014 08:10 PM

What's behind 37KT pantry?
 
1 Attachment(s)
While I had all the drawers and shelf out making some changes, I decided to look. Sorry for side view pic but tried to show everything.

ctpres 10-25-2014 08:35 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#16. Free, well almost free shelf in pantry. As delivered our 37KT pantry had three drawers with the bottom one being located less than one inch from pantry floor. Since floor of pantry was designed to hold a washer and dryer it had to strong enough for heavy items. Removed drawers, slide rails and front wood spacer that rails attached to. Decided how much space we wanted and cut two wood strips to replace spacer that was removed. Then it was just a case of re-installing the trim just removed on top of new spacer and using the same spacing and screw holes as the original configuration. Be sure rails are level and same 24 inch width as original. Not sure why drawers don't look level in pic but they are, plus on minus 1/16". Sorry, another side view picture trying to show all the detail. Depending on your software you may be able to click pic - if it reloads then click pic again and get really big pic to study detail. Notice different colored wood just below bottom drawer - that is top of new spacer.

ctpres 10-25-2014 08:48 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#17. Nothing came with frig to keep both doors open for ventilation when not in use. Think dog bone. Just took a piece of scrap pine and notched to fit space between doors. Just be sure large ends are thin enough to let doors close light switch.

ctpres 10-26-2014 03:45 PM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
#18. With passenger sliding window fully open it stops with bar right in drivers curb side mirror viewing area. Fix - remove rubber bumper in top slide channel. Cut off about 1/2 inch and reinstall with bumper touching front end of channel. Now the bar is right on the edge of mirror.

ctpres 10-26-2014 07:42 PM

37 KT sub woofer - where is it?
 
Can't find it in our 2015. Looked just about everywhere. Do have wire connected to sound bar sub output jack.

bdickson 10-26-2014 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2285909)
Can't find it in our 2015. Looked just about everywhere. Do have wire connected to sound bar sub output jack.

Did you look under the couch? That's where they put it in my 37GT.

okiefrank 10-26-2014 11:58 PM

If you have a 2013 37 GT and look for the converter, it is under the floor of the kitchen sink, remove 6 screws and remove the floor,, it is down where it can get wet if the plumbing leaks,, The inverter is another story, the rear side of the bed has a panel at the head of the bed, again remove the screws and the water heater is visible, the inverter is forward of the heater behind the front side of the bed, there is also a breaker on the inverter, Mine was tripped and was not working right. it only took the tech 3 hours to check out a problem

LyonsL 10-27-2014 12:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2285909)
Can't find it in our 2015. Looked just about everywhere. Do have wire connected to sound bar sub output jack.

It's located inside the entertainment center, on the floor behind the fireplace. There should be an access panel inside the bottom / right cabinet.

ctpres 10-27-2014 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2285922)
Did you look under the couch? That's where they put it in my 37GT.

Not under couch, behind TV or fireplace.

ctpres 10-27-2014 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2286170)
It's located inside the entertainment center, on the floor behind the fireplace. There should be an access panel inside the bottom / right cabinet.

You were right! Dumb me - I just removed fireplace surround and looked behind around the edges. Sub was setting almost exactly in center. Removed panel you mentioned and there it was. It wasn't working because power switch was off. Sound can't really get out from that sealed compartment. If I ever find an unused pair of wires between Main TV and outside TV it will go under the couch. So far I'm batting about 500 on as delivered fixes. Thank you.

ctpres 10-27-2014 08:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2278603)
Could you also provide a picture of the mod for the 50 amp cable as well? Ted

Sorry for delay - camera back in service. Here is pic of the 50 amp cable hatch. Fit was nice and snug - no trimming needed. Thinking about cutting small coax size notch in the same cable port. Then all of my park connections will be rodent and bug free for all but the smallest ones - like ants. Not sure you can ever keep them out.

tedgard01 10-28-2014 12:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2287307)
Sorry for delay - camera back in service. Here is pic of the 50 amp cable hatch. Fit was nice and snug - no trimming needed. Thinking about cutting small coax size notch in the same cable port. Then all of my park connections will be rodent and bug free for all but the smallest ones - like ants. Not sure you can ever keep them out.


Thanks.


Ted

tedgard01 10-28-2014 12:39 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Btw, my 2014.5 37GT has vents in the bay's from the heater that is supposed to keep the bay's safe from freezing as long as the heater is on in the coach. Where I live in NC, it has not reached anywhere close to freezing temps yet. It may get around freezing sometime next week. My coach is parked on a cement pad next to my house and I have installed a 50 amp service that it is plugged into when not in use, and I have the heater on with the thermostat set to 50 degrees. I will keep the LPG tank full. It is not hooked up to water, but there is water in the fresh water tank. I plan to use it off and on during the winter.

What is your thoughts? Do I need to do any other winterizing as long as I keep the heater on 50 degrees?



Ted

tedgard01 10-29-2014 09:07 PM

Any one see my last post? Please....


Ted

DGShaffer 10-30-2014 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2287536)
Btw, my 2014.5 37GT has vents in the bay's from the heater that is supposed to keep the bay's safe from freezing as long as the heater is on in the coach. Where I live in NC, it has not reached anywhere close to freezing temps yet. It may get around freezing sometime next week. My coach is parked on a cement pad next to my house and I have installed a 50 amp service that it is plugged into when not in use, and I have the heater on with the thermostat set to 50 degrees. I will keep the LPG tank full. It is not hooked up to water, but there is water in the fresh water tank. I plan to use it off and on during the winter.

What is your thoughts? Do I need to do any other winterizing as long as I keep the heater on 50 degrees?



Ted

If you can afford the propane to keep your furnace set at 50, you'll be fine. We were traveling during Christmas a a couple of years and one year I did that. I had to go out to refill my tank once waiting foir my trip to come around on the calinder though.

sbleiweiss 10-30-2014 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2289939)
Any one see my last post? Please....


Ted

I saw the one about heating the bays. I actually tried to respond but something wasn't working right yesterday on the forum. My response wouldn't go. Maybe it was everyone. I don't know. Hlopefully this one will go. What I said was that I have a similar problem but worse since we are in Chicago. We park in a heated garage, but want to use it to go south in the winter. I am interested in how cold it can stand with the furnaces running. So far I would not risk colder than the 20's, but I would love to learn it was good into the teens.

ctpres 10-30-2014 09:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2289939)
Any one see my last post? Please....
Ted

I like electric heat in wet bay. My approach: couple 100 watt bulbs wired in series and plugged in to an EASYHEAT EH38 thermostat controlled outlet (turns on at 38 and off at 50 degrees). Bulbs go in series to significantly increase life. Add a battery powered thermometer with remote in wet bay to keep an eye on actual temp. Might need more heat farther north but 100 watts of heat has worked well for us.

ctpres 10-30-2014 02:13 PM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#19. One thing always leads to another. Opened blank panel under sink for fire extinguisher storage project (more on that later) and found a tangled mess of heater ducting. Sharp bends and one pinched to about half size. Disconnected all at furnace - stretched out to nearly maximum per install instructions - cut off excess and reinstalled. Only had to remove one half of sink floor to work with reasonable comfort. Now more air moving out every register. Removed over six feet of duct. Also noted that is spite very large return air grill under frig - return air is restricted by very small hole between cabinets. Decided to leave that as is for now. Picture shows finished project.

tedgard01 10-30-2014 04:47 PM

Thanks for the responses in regard to winter heating.


Ted

ctpres 10-30-2014 06:14 PM

Ever wonder what's under the dash console cover?
 
2 Attachment(s)
Well now I know, at least for our 2015 37KT. First pic shows radio area. There are six cables coming out of the right side of the radio. Five capped plugs are not connected and are available for add-on features: I-Pod, IR Remote, Sirius, Line out L/R RCA and AUX in L/R RCA. The other pic shows console area behind gauges. Not much to get excited about there - just a whole bunch of wires. The cover was only held on by the visible screws. Putting it back on using the original screw holes takes a bit of time but not really difficult.

ctpres 10-31-2014 12:33 PM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#20. Looking for a place to put kitchen fire extinguisher? I decided to put it under kitchen sink. There was a blank panel just below sink cabinet that is covered by door when closed. Removed the panel and built a box in the empty space big enough to hold a 5BC extinguisher. Made it wide enough to get a big hand around it for easy removal.

ctpres 11-01-2014 11:46 AM

Fireplace
 
First sub 50 degree day at home and time to start testing heat. Propane works great but air distribution really inadequate in front. Only one floor register for living room and cockpit. OK crank up the fireplace - still a bit chilly. Added small space heater at passenger seat outlet and promptly tripped a breaker. Long story short, the fire place was plugged into TV/inverter outlet instead of the dedicated 15 amp outlet located rear left of fireplace cabinet. Relocated plug and all OK. Fireplace enclosure almost air tight with glass front touching wood trim of opening. No way for air to get in. Per install instructions - moved fireplace a bit forward (fireplace front flanges flush with trim) so air could be drawn around glass front and into space behind - where the air intake is. Put glass back and noted could rattle. Felt pads on each corner and done. No way to test but it sure seems to be moving a lot more air.

happycamperj 11-01-2014 07:31 PM

Purchased a 2014 37GT, with the U-shaped kitchen. We thought with all of the cabinets and drawers that there would be more room, but were surprised to find how small those were , compared to what we traded in. However, it did make for a good time to get rid of some of our "stuff". It would have been nice to put the dishes in an upper cabinet. Paper plates stack up better up on their sides.

bdickson 11-02-2014 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by happycamperj (Post 2293448)
Purchased a 2014 37GT, with the U-shaped kitchen. We thought with all of the cabinets and drawers that there would be more room, but were surprised to find how small those were , compared to what we traded in. However, it did make for a good time to get rid of some of our "stuff". It would have been nice to put the dishes in an upper cabinet. Paper plates stack up better up on their sides.

Our 37GT ddi not have the washer/dryer option installed so I shelved the closet in the bathroom and that is now our pantry.

rvbunz 11-02-2014 09:38 AM

Congrats
 
Congrats, on you purchase. Hope you enjoy it.

DGShaffer 11-02-2014 01:16 PM

Congratulations on the new GT! I just finished winterizing my DT. Too windy up here in the NorthEast to make an attempt at covering it though. Next weekend I'll give that a shot.

tedgard01 11-02-2014 10:49 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by happycamperj (Post 2293448)
... 2014 37GT ... We thought with all of the cabinets and drawers that there would be more room, but were surprised to find how small those were , compared to what we traded in ...


Congrats on the new RV.

In regard to the limited shelf space, we agree... I had a stackable washer and dryer installed (which we love) so I did not have the option of using that closet.

Regardless, I did one thing that really helped the cabinet space. The shelves above the sofa are half shelves in that the window shades are located in back and therefore the back half of the shelf is raised. I cut some small 1 x 1's which I used as leggs, and used Velcro to attach some behind the front (on the back of the brace between the doors) and along the back side of the lower shelf. Then I cut some small rectangle shelve boards that set on the leggs. It therefore makes a full shelf the depth of the cabinet and just right for full sized plates, etc. And as they are not permanently attached, if I need to that some out for taller items then that section can be easily removed.


Ted

ctpres 11-03-2014 10:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2295016)
I cut some small rectangle shelve boards that set on the legs. It therefore makes a full shelf the depth of the cabinet and just right for full sized plates, etc. Ted

Now that is a good, simple, cheap and easy to do idea. Already on my to-do list. We have lots of storage so I will probably do everything but the Velcro part. Also the space under shelf will be great for smaller items that always seem to get buried.

tedgard01 11-03-2014 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2295459)
Now that is a good, simple, cheap and easy to do idea. Already on my to-do list. We have lots of storage so I will probably do everything but the Velcro part. Also the space under shelf will be great for smaller items that always seem to get buried.


Yes. Even things like plastic wrap, sandwich bags, aluminum foil, etc. We even keep the extra sheets for the pull out bed and the drop down bed in the far front cabinet.


Ted

ctpres 11-05-2014 08:56 AM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
#21. Friends stopped by ranch in their new coach for a week long visit. He mentioned door being very hard to open sometimes. Just went thru similar problem with our new 37KT and sure enough - exactly the same problem and fix. When screen door used alone the the very end of latch handle catches on a latch plate attached to the door jamb. When main door closes with screen door there is a plastic hook on door that captures handle of screen door so they open and close together. That plastic hook is adjustable up and down. It must press handle down far enough so the latch does not catch on latch plate. To prove if this is your problem - sit on steps inside with one hand on screen door latch and use the free hand to open and close the door. Try with no pressure on screen door handle and again while pushing down on screen door handle. Fix is simple - move door mounted hook down in small increments until screen does not latch and then maybe a tad more

bdickson 11-06-2014 12:48 PM

Can anyone with a 2014 or 15 Challenger with residential refrigerator tell me how many/what type house batteries it came out of the factory with?

tedgard01 11-06-2014 03:19 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2299674)
Can anyone with a 2014 or 15 Challenger with residential refrigerator tell me how many/what type house batteries it came out of the factory with?


Bruce, I'll take a look as soon as I get to the RV to make sure, but there are no separate house batteries specifically for the refrigerator. It simply runs off the inverter. There are two house batteries, which I believe are 6 volt batteries tied together.

BTW, I run both the refrigerator and another separate Dometic freezer in one of the bays. As long as I have the engine running and/or plugged in to shore power, they will both run all the time and the voltage never drops below 13.4 volts. I was sure pleasantly surprised because I thought I would need to run the generator after a few hours of driving in order to keep the house batteries charged. I have had no issues with running down the batteries at all.

On the other hand, if I stop and turn off the engine and don't run the generator, the voltage will drop to about 12 volts after a hour or two.


Ted

bdickson 11-06-2014 04:26 PM

Thanks Ted. As long as the engine is running the alternator is charging the house batteries as well as the chassis battery. And anytime you are plugged in to shore power the inverter is running in passthrough mode and not drawing anything from the batteries.

2 6-volt batteries sounds the same as my 2013 which has a Dometic gas absorption fridge. However I also have an 1800 watt inverter but mine is just powering outlets for the entertainment center and a few others. I was just curious if Thor had added extra battery trays anywhere.

tedgard01 11-06-2014 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2299891)
Thanks Ted. As long as the engine is running the alternator is charging the house batteries as well as the chassis battery. And anytime you are plugged in to shore power the inverter is running in passthrough mode and not drawing anything from the batteries.



2 6-volt batteries sounds the same as my 2013 which has a Dometic gas absorption fridge. However I also have an 1800 watt inverter but mine is just powering outlets for the entertainment center and a few others. I was just curious if Thor had added extra battery trays anywhere.


No. Just the two in the same bay as the jacks.


Ted

Bweiler 11-07-2014 08:49 AM

I am exploring adding 2 additional 6 volts to to bay - anyone else done this?? it almost looks like you have room if you flip existing batteries sideways. My fridge only runs for an hour before draining past the 12v mark and kicking in auto gen start. It is in the dealership now at the pre 1 yr checkup. This was a noted issue so will be interesting to hear their response. I am already having a repaint done due to them dripping paint underneath the clear coat.

JohnG2013KT 11-07-2014 07:11 PM

Fix for water siphoning?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Last year, I passed on some info from Thor regarding the siphoning of my 'full' water tank.. Thor's response was that I needed to add a section of 'slightly' bigger hose to the overflow lines . Well I finally got around to it .. I think that I did it as suggested by Thor .. but lo and behold .. it didn't work .. the tank drained every drop out .. I did notice that until the final burp, the level test indicator was showing full? .. Not sure why ... other than it's possible that there was a huge air bubble in the tank.. created when I was filling it? .So .. I tried it again .. but this time opened the faucet in the bathroom .. And this time it seemed to work .. The tank drained the overflow, then stopped .. If anyone can add anything after looking at the pic, I would appreciate as I am not convinced that the problem is solved .. My next option is to add a gate valve to each of the overflow lines .. Which will work, but leaves me somewhat concerned that If I forget to open the valves when filling the tank, I will blow out a line?

tedgard01 11-07-2014 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bweiler (Post 2300721)
... My fridge only runs for an hour before draining past the 12v mark and kicking in auto gen start. ...


When you say that the fridge only runs for an hour before the auto gen start kicked in, I assume you must mean that this happens when you are parked without running the engine and/or dry camping without being hooked up to electricity. Is that correct?

Have you asked Thor about this? Also, I had this problem after first getting my coach. I found that the main breaker behind the house batteries was flipped off, preventing the proper charging of the house batteries. This is not a breaker in the main panel. Mine is a black breaker with a flat type switch located at the bottom of the breaker. That flat switch has to be pushed up to reset the breaker. It should be attached to the frame just behind the house batteries with a cable from the batteries attached to it. My generator had to start to keep the house batteries charged as well, but after getting that breaker reset, and fully charging the house batteries, it solved that problem and the fridge can now run far longer before the generator needs to run. Just a thought from my personal experiance.


Ted

okiefrank 11-07-2014 11:55 PM

I added 2, 6 volt batteries, I had a frame for them added to the engine compartment in the space between the grill and the radiators, It does not reduce the air flow, the cables are connected to the old house batteries and I also added solar panels on the roof, I can camp all weekend and still have 12 volts left thats using the satellite and tv also.'

bigdaddy5120 11-08-2014 02:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 2301422)
Last year, I passed on some info from Thor regarding the siphoning of my 'full' water tank.. Thor's response was that I needed to add a section of 'slightly' bigger hose to the overflow lines . Well I finally got around to it .. I think that I did it as suggested by Thor .. but lo and behold .. it didn't work .. the tank drained every drop out .. I did notice that until the final burp, the level test indicator was showing full? .. Not sure why ... other than it's possible that there was a huge air bubble in the tank.. created when I was filling it? .So .. I tried it again .. but this time opened the faucet in the bathroom .. And this time it seemed to work .. The tank drained the overflow, then stopped .. If anyone can add anything after looking at the pic, I would appreciate as I am not convinced that the problem is solved .. My next option is to add a gate valve to each of the overflow lines .. Which will work, but leaves me somewhat concerned that If I forget to open the valves when filling the tank, I will blow out a line?

I put a larger line in a loop (Top of loop up above the tank). I drove about 300 miles to mountains and it was still full. seemed to work.

Bweiler 11-09-2014 07:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2301515)
When you say that the fridge only runs for an hour before the auto gen start kicked in, I assume you must mean that this happens when you are parked without running the engine and/or dry camping without being hooked up to electricity. Is that correct?

Have you asked Thor about this? Also, I had this problem after first getting my coach. I found that the main breaker behind the house batteries was flipped off, preventing the proper charging of the house batteries. This is not a breaker in the main panel. Mine is a black breaker with a flat type switch located at the bottom of the breaker. That flat switch has to be pushed up to reset the breaker. It should be attached to the frame just behind the house batteries with a cable from the batteries attached to it. My generator had to start to keep the house batteries charged as well, but after getting that breaker reset, and fully charging the house batteries, it solved that problem and the fridge can now run far longer before the generator needs to run. Just a thought from my personal experiance.


Ted


Thanks - I will definitely check this out and locate this breaker

ctpres 11-09-2014 05:57 PM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
#22. Discovered more storage space 37KT! Basement curb side compartment under pantry/washer dryer closet had heavy duty wood panel at back end of top shelf. Decided to "see what was on the other side." With an arm stretcher, lots of wiggling and a small battery powered screwdriver I was able to remove screws securing it to the floor. Now I could see pass thru went all the way across and was blocked at the other end by the dump hardware for the washing machine gray water tank. There were no support brackets for the tank between the ends. Seems to me the heavy duty panel was supposed to be a support for tank bottom - but where it was when I removed it there was almost 1/2 inch space between tank bottom and panel, probably about as long from door as installers arm. So I simply pushed it to the other side until it touched the bottom of the tank and then a bit more to wedge it in. No way to put screws in so wedging is only way to keep it in place. I considered leaving it out - but decided my memory would fail if we ever installed a washing machine and I would forget to re-install it. Moving the panel almost doubled the storage space of the pass thru area.

ctpres 11-09-2014 06:13 PM

Be Careful 7 way outlet hot wires!
 
Finally getting around to setting toad up for towing and decided to use my 7 way tester to be sure everything worked at coach end before I started. As soon as I plugged tester in it showed power was on to one pair! No lights on and ignition key off. Have no idea what is power source but after a bit of messing around I concluded it must be 5 amps or more. Left/right turn park and flasher lights all work as they should. If anybody knows why it is hot with everything off - let us know. Initial thinking leads me to believe I can use that hot pair to keep toads battery charged.

RVredneck 11-09-2014 10:18 PM

Does anyone know if both awnings on 37kt are power or manual?

Webman9113 11-10-2014 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2304190)
Does anyone know if both awnings on 37kt are power or manual?

In our 2014.5 37KT, the forward awning is power, the aft one is manual (but very easy to put in and out).

ctpres 11-10-2014 05:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2304190)
Does anyone know if both awnings on 37kt are power or manual?

2015 37kt - both power, Rapid Camp and led in awning track

ctpres 11-10-2014 05:54 AM

Air to inside rear tire
 
Having problems deciding what to do: valve extension, braided hose, Cat's eye, Crossfire or just do whatever truckers do.
What did you do?

bdickson 11-10-2014 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2304374)
Having problems deciding what to do: valve extension, braided hose, Cat's eye, Crossfire or just do whatever truckers do.
What did you do?

I installed Crossfires a while ago and I really like them.

ctpres 11-10-2014 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2304376)
I installed Crossfires a while ago and I really like them.

High on my list - could you post a pic?


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