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-   -   Thor Challenger Owners Unite! (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor-challenger-owners-unite-150811.html)

sbleiweiss 11-10-2014 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2304190)
Does anyone know if both awnings on 37kt are power or manual?

My 14.5 KT has one power (front) and one manual (rear). The slide room is so close to the power awning that it doesn't allow for pitching the awning at all with the slide out. A really stupid design.

RVredneck 11-10-2014 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2304365)
2015 37kt - both power, Rapid Camp and led in awning track


Sweet. Can't wait to play with it!!!

On another topic....I've been sniffing around on the thor forums and I'm quite concerned about the amount of negative stories of quality on these units. Is it just a matter of the few unhappy customers voicing their opinions and the happy ones stay silent??

ctpres 11-10-2014 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2304604)
Sweet. Can't wait to play with it!!!

On another topic....I've been sniffing around on the thor forums and I'm quite concerned about the amount of negative stories of quality on these units. Is it just a matter of the few unhappy customers voicing their opinions and the happy ones stay silent??

I think most bad stories are dealer or owner related. You would be surprised what some owners expect and do and then try to pass problem off on mfg. Chose you servicing dealer with care and buy from dealer with best price. Most of the problems on our new 37KT were caused by selling dealer and some maybe during transit from factory to dealer. Overall I think Thor is as good or better than others in the SAME price range. For what it is worth - the Challenger line is built in same plant as more upscale diesel products. May be wishful thinking but skills and standards there might be higher.

DGShaffer 11-11-2014 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2304398)
High on my list - could you post a pic?

After a trip to Key West through a snow storm my TST pressure monitors siezed on to my valve stems. I had to have them cut off which then required the stems be replaced which meant the tires had to be pulled off the rims! I was done adding anything to my stems other than either brass or stainless. I installed a Crossfire on my Outlaw and now on my Challenger. I couple a good pressure gauge with frequent visual inspection for piece of mind and have never looked back.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...5&d=1362931289
https://www.irv2.com/forums/attachmen...7&d=1362931289

jcullipher 11-11-2014 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2302388)
I put a larger line in a loop (Top of loop up above the tank). I drove about 300 miles to mountains and it was still full. seemed to work.


I did as you with the loop and it helped quite a bit, I had a half tank on arrival. I tried a suggestion to drill a small hole in the vent line at the top of that loop and gained another quarter tank of water. I, like the OP, thought about the ball valves, but remembering to open would be another problem. I have made progress on this, but I still think it could be better. A design flaw for sure.


Jimmy

ctpres 11-12-2014 10:33 AM

37KT bed platform
 
Decided to post my errors so others don't make same mistake. I was exploring to see how a ceiling fan install over bed might work out. Decided not good to be walking on mattress and moved it to the side. Was still on my knees and about to stand when CRACK! Paneling on top of bed base is so thin and the spacers are so far apart it would not support me. Think walking in attic on the sheet rock - it can't be done. Now have almost one foot long splintered crack that needs some kind of repair.

ctpres 11-12-2014 11:20 AM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
#23. Almost no AM at all on bedroom radio - Jensen AWM-914. FM works fine. Per manual there is an indoor antenna that comes with the radio. Decided to check it out and found it all coiled up hanging from bottom of closet above. Unrolled almost five foot long wire and ran it thru top of space above adjacent drawers. Works better but still not as good as dash radio with an outside antenna. If you want to go with an outside antenna the provided indoor one has a standard car radio plug.

ctpres 11-12-2014 11:40 AM

Crossfire questions
 
1. How did you decide which pressure rating version to buy. I am hoping to get ours installed long before I get around to four corner weigh.
2. Did you have room for TPMS sensor with the basic model? Mfg's info says you need model with Tee to use TPMS

ctpres 11-12-2014 11:50 AM

More Mods Fixes and Upgrades
 
#24. Cleaned air filters for the first time and noticed I could see a corner of the cold air duct. That meant the return air was pulling in cold air and reducing volume of air being delivered to ceiling duct system. Removed complete ceiling grill and pushed baffle forward to properly seal return air chamber.

DGShaffer 11-12-2014 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2307722)
1. How did you decide which pressure rating version to buy. I am hoping to get ours installed long before I get around to four corner weigh.
2. Did you have room for TPMS sensor with the basic model? Mfg's info says you need model with Tee to use TPMS

Michelin publishes a pressure chart based on weight. I had the opportunity two weigh mine so I run 85 in the rear and 80 in the front. Makes fore a really soft ride. I keep an IR meter in the coash that I use everytime I check my pressures to keep an eye on the heat. So far so good.

I no longer run a TPMS although I'm on the fence. If I do go with another unit I'll try the EEZRV flow through. With the Crossfire I only need 4 sending units.

bdickson 11-12-2014 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 2308144)
Michelin publishes a pressure chart based on weight. I had the opportunity two weigh mine so I run 85 in the rear and 80 in the front. Makes fore a really soft ride. I keep an IR meter in the coash that I use everytime I check my pressures to keep an eye on the heat. So far so good.

I no longer run a TPMS although I'm on the fence. If I do go with another unit I'll try the EEZRV flow through. With the Crossfire I only need 4 sending units.


Don, how close to GVWR are you? I am right on the max and when Hendersons weighed the coach they recommended 90 front, 95 rear.

DGShaffer 11-13-2014 05:02 AM

I don't remember my weights anymore but When I weighed it and compared that to the chart I found that the tires were over rated and even at 85 I was over pressure by a good bit. At 15,000 miles all is well with the wear patterns and the tire temp is consistantly around 195F (checked at center and inside a tread) and under when checked as soon as I stop. The ride is really soft so I'm really happy with my choice.

ctpres 11-14-2014 07:18 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#25. Winegard RV 7541 ANT/SAT wall plate very poorly installed. This is the wall plate with little green light and push button switch. Discovered plate was just screwed to wall - no box or spacers. #1 Bare bottom screw ran between numerous coax and power wires - great chance for shorts. #2 Sat cable connector is pointed at wall and with coax connected the cable is bent at 90 degrees right at the end of the connector, over stressing the cable. If not bad now it will be. If you plan on roof sat installation this must be fixed with new connector and wall plate relocated or reinstalled with adequate room for coax to bend. Note dent in orange/sat cable - that is from pc board pinching cable against wall. I do not plan on roof sat in near future, so I improvised a temp fix. Used much longer screws thru hard plastic tubes for spacers. That gave enough room for coax to have a reasonable stress free bend. Screw just barely sticks out of gray spacer.

Bweiler 11-16-2014 03:20 PM

Where is the wall plate you are referring to? I have a 2014.5 37kt and have never seen this plate - I thought the switch box took plate of the amp.

ctpres 11-16-2014 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bweiler (Post 2312917)
Where is the wall plate you are referring to? I have a 2014.5 37kt and have never seen this plate - I thought the switch box took plate of the amp.

2015 37KT Front TV is mounted flat to angled base in street side slide - just below TV is an open storage space for DVD's. Combiner power plate is in that space on the right end - should be able to see it just looking at TV from couch. White with Two male F connectors - one SAT and one TV ant, a green LED and small push button next to LED. Can't take pic right now but will later if needed.

ctpres 11-16-2014 05:30 PM

Warning! Follow-up to earlier post
 
MY Post #1274 observation "Fireplace enclosure almost air tight with glass front touching wood trim of opening. No way for air to get in. Per install instructions - moved fireplace a bit forward so air could be drawn around glass front and into space behind - where the air intake is. "
Well it got cold enough to need heat and fireplace seemed to shut down regardless of thermostat setting. Finally figured out that fireplace thermal override was kicking in and shutting it down - I did not move it out far enough the first time. There still was not enough space around fireplace for intake air and case was overheating. Very hot to touch. Re-installed fireplace so glass was almost 1/2 inch from wood trim and no more shutdowns. I would hate to think what could happen if thermal override failed. If you think you have same problem just remove glass front ( lift up and out - it hooks pegs on sides of fireplace box) and run fireplace without glass front. It should shutdown on its own with thermostat and come right back on if you readjust thermostat for higher temp.

ctpres 11-17-2014 08:06 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#26. Discovered that couch slide AC wiring was reversed. TV was on misc breaker/not inverter and the two AC outlets were on the inverter. Removed couch - two screws thru angle bracket into floor with two brackets each side. Removed left service panel to expose electrical junction box. Found wiring error in box and corrected. Input AC lines were color coded red and yellow. If anyone knows which color is inverter let us know so anyone else with same problem can be technically correct.

JohnG2013KT 11-17-2014 10:29 AM

Hi Don ... The Dual Dynamics/Crossfire website is not the best ... I'm having some trouble deciding which version of the crossfire you put on your MH .. It looks to be 85 PSI with stainless steel hoses .. Do you happen to know the exact model # .. Thanks
John

ctpres 11-17-2014 06:01 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#26. Tested furnace during walk thru and it put out hot air. Low thirty's this morning and furnace could not keep up - even with two 1,500 watt heaters. Air out hardly warm. Turned on one cooktop burner and had low flame. Checked propane tank valve and found it not fully open. Gotta love the easy fixes.

AKJohn 11-18-2014 09:18 AM

It shouldn't make any difference if your propane tank valve is open 1/2 a turn or all the way to the open stop. The pressure at the regulator is the same and only a small amount of gas will be flowing past the regulator. Did opening your valve really solve your furnace problem?

ctpres 11-18-2014 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AKJohn (Post 2315318)
It shouldn't make any difference if your propane tank valve is open 1/2 a turn or all the way to the open stop. The pressure at the regulator is the same and only a small amount of gas will be flowing past the regulator. Did opening your valve really solve your furnace problem?

Maybe there was another problem. Furnace low heat output - opened tank valve all the way and no problem since? Will report here if problem returns.

ctpres 11-19-2014 06:06 PM

#28. Sorry two #26. Dining room table secured to floor for travel with two angle brackets and metal plates screwed to floor. No matter how I positioned table there was very little room to open bathroom door with slide retracted. Removed floor plate closest to center of coach and moved it so table would be about 1/2 inch from wall. Now we can actually use bathroom on the road. I could not relocate both plates as one had a large hole drilled in floor for the bolt. To keep from drilling hole in carpet and floor at the new location I simply cut some off end of bolt.

RVredneck 11-20-2014 03:15 PM

Anyone have some pics of the 37KT with the slides in. Curious how much room there is inside. Travelling with my wife ,three kids and a dog. Hope it's not to cramped!!!

kndogpa 11-21-2014 03:49 AM

We have a 2014 KT and it's the wife,2 kids, 3 dogs and myself. Plenty of room for moving so far as long as everyone isn't trying to do it at once. We have approx 7300 miles and have owned it since 9-2013. Very happy with the rig. I don't have any pics to show you at this time.

sbleiweiss 11-21-2014 07:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2318410)
Anyone have some pics of the 37KT with the slides in. Curious how much room there is inside. Travelling with my wife ,three kids and a dog. Hope it's not to cramped!!!

No pics here either, but roomy. Only cramped area is in the BR with slide in. Can't get around except by crawling over bed. Difficult to use the DR table with slide in too, and impossible for more than two people.

ctpres 11-21-2014 07:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2318410)
Anyone have some pics of the 37KT with the slides in. Curious how much room there is inside. Travelling with my wife ,three kids and a dog. Hope it's not to cramped!!!

Hint - If you buy it and need to sleep in king bed with slides in - just sleep with head of bed at rear window.

ctpres 11-21-2014 07:53 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#29. Still picking the low hanging fruit. Found several basement compartments with long screws protruding into storage space with potential to scratch or damage bay contents. I just cut em off. I thought about replacing them with shorter ones but decided not to as most of them secured an adjustable part like latch and I didn't want to get involved with trying put them back where they were.

ctpres 11-22-2014 02:39 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#30. While installing hardwired surge protector I decided to do a quick visual inspection of wiring at 50 amp connector and ATS. I found two connections at the ATS with insulation captured by clamping screws. Everything worked ok but clamping on the insulation can lead to problems in the future. You usually don't have to remove wire to find problems like this. Bright flashlight and maybe a small mirror - what you should see is some copper just before wire goes under clamp - also insulation should not be stripped back far enough to allow accidental contact.

tedgard01 11-22-2014 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2320879)
#30. While installing hardwired surge protector I decided to do a quick visual inspection of wiring at 50 amp connector and ATS. I found two connections at the ATS with insulation captured by clamping screws. Everything worked ok but clamping on the insulation can lead to problems in the future. You usually don't have to remove wire to find problems like this. Bright flashlight and maybe a small mirror - what you should see is some copper just before wire goes under clamp - also insulation should not be stripped back far enough to allow accidental contact.


In regard to this one, not sure what you are doing, but what are the potential problems you anticipate with the insulation being clamped?


Ted

ctpres 11-23-2014 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2321315)
In regard to this one, not sure what you are doing, but what are the potential problems you anticipate with the insulation being clamped?


Ted

High current/voltage connections require a good clean, full contact and
properly torqued connection. Insulation captured in the clamping area reduces the electrical contact surface. For example the surge protector I installed spec'd 1/2 inch of insulation stripped and connection torqued to 16 in#. The specified 1/2 inch of bare wire insures that the fully inserted wire will achieve maximum contact area. The resistance of a bad connection will lead to heat. Heat generated during hi power transmission will cause more problems. As wire heats it expands and shrinks as it cools. Typically wire is clamped between two surfaces - so when it expands it can only move to sides then when it cools it gets thinner between the clamped points leading to lower ability to pass current resulting in low voltage and more heat. Eventually the connection generates enough heat that it fails. If lucky you only need to replace the device. Worst case is fire. A good common example of heat generated by a bad connection is burned shore power plugs.

tedgard01 11-23-2014 08:27 AM

I see. Thanks.


Ted

ctpres 11-23-2014 04:15 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#31 Probably does not apply to many of you - but our new 37KT came with seat belt receivers bolted solidly in vertical position. Nearly impossible to hook-up seatbelt without a lot of bending and searching. 3/4 in socket to loosen bolt a bit and seconds later we can rotate receiver on both chairs to an angle that is suitably for the passenger.

RVredneck 11-23-2014 09:38 PM

Wow. I just spent a good chunk of the afternoon reading through this whole thread....lots of good info. I also feel a lot better of our decision to upgrade our windsport to a 2015 37KT. I'm planning to go to Elkhart to see our unit in production which should be cool.
A couple questions....do you guys have the 3Mprotective film on the front if your RV? Also we are up in Ontario Canada. Is it a good or bad idea to put a cover on it for the winter??

tedgard01 11-23-2014 10:20 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2322575)
... do you guys have the 3Mprotective film on the front if your RV? ...


I bought the protective film, full body, with interior protection on seats, etc. It will help against rock dings. They use it on the higher end coaches.

In regard to the covering, I have heard pros and cons.

In my case, I live in the south (NC, USA), and therefore don't have the same weather as you, and I use it just about every few weeks in the winter and most of the summer months, so it would be more trouble than I would want to put up with. On the other hand, I'd love to have a heated garage to park it in...

Ted

sbleiweiss 11-24-2014 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2322623)
I bought the protective film, full body, with interior protection on seats, etc. It will help against rock dings. They use it on the higher end coaches.

In regard to the covering, I have heard pros and cons.

In my case, I live in the south (NC, USA), and therefore don't have the same weather as you, and I use it just about every few weeks in the winter and most of the summer months, so it would be more trouble than I would want to put up with. On the other hand, I'd love to have a heated garage to park it in...

Ted

We just bought that heated garage you wish for Ted. Got a good price on a new condo garage built just before the recession/crash. We love the convenience of having it indoors and of course don't have to winterize. It is bigger than we need and we are renting out space for boat/RV/classic car storage, etc. I think it will be a good investment economically too. At least I hope it will.

RVredneck 11-24-2014 12:04 PM

I had to pick between new heated garage or new MH........

ctpres 11-24-2014 01:54 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#32. One of my problems with camera display in radio is trying to see picture underway. Very bad viewing angle. Solution - tilt radio. Remove dash cover, disconnect all wires - after labeling camera plugs on camera end. I could not get the big cable plug out and was afraid to use much force - so I just worked around it. Remove nut that secures radio to plastic tab. Using radio removal tools pull radio out thru front. Bend housing tabs back flush with top and sides - there probably won't be any bent tabs on bottom as nearly impossible to get at them. Pull housing out thru front - if able to disconnect all wires and the plug, paint top and right side black so housing won't be so visible when done. It will be necessary to trim maybe an 1/16 to 1/8 inch or so off left and right sides of dash frame. Very thin so easy to do with razor blade or very sharp knife. Re-install housing and tilt right side out about 1/2 inch. Bend tabs in front and back of dash trim to hold housing at an angle. Test fit radio and move housing again if needed. I could not paint housing so I just put a strip of black electrical tape on the front side and cut a wedge of black paper on top. Results - much better picture from driving position. Total time less than one hour and zero expnese

rvbunz 11-24-2014 02:53 PM

Hello all;
Well we are looking on putting a forming rally together for the week of 11-16 May 2015 at Lazydays in Tampa. This rally is to officially set up our Thor Motor Coach Owners' Club. At this point no seminars will be scheduled. There will be games, socials, meals and entertainment. Planning on a business meeting close to the end of the rally where we can establish the by-laws, and elect club officers. I have been forming this club on my own and we are up to 267 members from the US and Canada. We have a vast variety of coaches. I contacted Thor and asked if it would be possible to have a Thor representative available and I was told yes. What I need now is to determine the level of interest. In order to establish a sound rally fee I need to know how many would attend. If you know you would attend please send an email to tmcoc@ec.rr.com. If you feel there is a strong possibily you will attend please send an email as well stating so. Once I receive the level of interest and get the rest of my info from Lazydays and entertaimnet group, I'll be able to set the fee and post a registration. This is the second stage of forming the club. I have placed it on the calendar and you can answer the question at the bottom of the event as to whether you may attend. Lets roll.
__________________

sbleiweiss 11-25-2014 09:23 AM

For those of you more tech savvy than me, I have been told different things by different Thor dealers. Does the chassis battery charge when the MH is plugged into 50 amp service? 30 amp? 20 amp?

ctpres 11-25-2014 09:29 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#33. Hole in the base plate for removable table collects dirt and presents a tripping hazard for heels on some of DW's shoes. I found a #12 solid rubber tapered plug on ebay that solved the problem for about $8.50. #12 plug sticks up just far enough for easy removal and can be walked on without pressing it in so far that it can not be removed easily.

tedgard01 11-25-2014 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2324184)
For those of you more tech savvy than me, I have been told different things by different Thor dealers. Does the chassis battery charge when the MH is plugged into 50 amp service? 30 amp? 20 amp?


Yes


Ted

sbleiweiss 11-26-2014 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2324919)
Yes


Ted

We found it dead one day in storage while plugged into 20 amp. Dealer said maybe 20 amp wasn't enough to run everything that draws power even while parked, and charge the battery too. Does that make sense?

AKJohn 11-26-2014 09:32 AM

20amp not enough to maintain the batteries in storage? That's BS.

tedgard01 11-26-2014 09:58 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2325257)
We found it dead one day in storage while plugged into 20 amp. Dealer said maybe 20 amp wasn't enough to run everything that draws power even while parked, and charge the battery too. Does that make sense?


One day? What is running? Did you turn the battery disconnect switch off?

I am not sure if it charges the batteries with the disconnect switch off.

Mine is parked beside my house, and I have a 50 amp box installed, so I don't know how long it would run on 20 amp. Regardless, mine has set far longer than one day without running down the batteries, and it was not plugged into anything.


Ted

LyonsL 11-27-2014 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2324184)
For those of you more tech savvy than me, I have been told different things by different Thor dealers. Does the chassis battery charge when the MH is plugged into 50 amp service? 30 amp? 20 amp?

My Challenger is plugged into a 50 amp service at my house but it only draws 2 amps to keep the batteries charged. You should be able to keep the batteries charged even if the coach is plugged into a 15 amp service.

ctpres 11-27-2014 08:00 AM

Wrong manual with new coach
 
Tried to calibrate leveling system and no go. Finally found correct procedure in newer manual. If you have display on the control pad this is the manual you need.
https://https://lci1.com/assets/conte...e-Leveling.pdf

sbleiweiss 11-27-2014 10:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2325986)
One day? What is running? Did you turn the battery disconnect switch off?

I am not sure if it charges the batteries with the disconnect switch off.

Mine is parked beside my house, and I have a 50 amp box installed, so I don't know how long it would run on 20 amp. Regardless, mine has set far longer than one day without running down the batteries, and it was not plugged into anything.


Ted

I didn't mean it was parked for one day. It was there for more than a month. Still though, if it charges while plugged in then why would it have been dead? Maybe the battery disconnect was shut down. Maybe that is what the problem was. Hasn't done it since, although we now have 50 amp service, like you.

sbleiweiss 11-27-2014 10:25 AM

Does anyone know what would cause a slight buzzing sound during the night that my wife hears from the bedroom in some RV Parks but not all? Sounds like it is coming from the basement below the head of the bed (driver's side-rear).

tedgard01 11-27-2014 10:54 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2326410)
Does anyone know what would cause a slight buzzing sound during the night that my wife hears from the bedroom in some RV Parks but not all? Sounds like it is coming from the basement below the head of the bed (driver's side-rear).

Probably the power box where the 50 amp hooks up. The name of the device escapes me (transformer, converter??).... On my Challenger, it is in the last bay on the driver's side of the coach. Does she sleep on the far side of the bed (away from the bathroom)? That is my guess... Also, the water heater is on that side. Regardless, the A/C and/or heater are far louder....


Ted

tedgard01 11-27-2014 11:09 AM

FYI - thinking about the heater and the vent in the bedroom....

I found that if you have the heater on, the bed room is much warmer than the rest of the coach. I found a cheep solution that helps to regulate the heat, and push more up to the front of the coach.

I took off the vent in the bedroom and took one of the flat (but concave) sink strainers (picked it up at Lowe's or Home Depot) and duct taped it into the inside of the vent. Then I put duct tape over more than half of the holes in the sink strainer. After replacing the vent, it now pushes more heat up front which makes the heat more even throughout the coach.


Ted

bigdaddy5120 11-27-2014 12:38 PM

Anybody know what these connectors are ? They located on the driver side of the windshield and look like they might extra connector for the power shades but I'm not sure.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...2c511da097.jpg

tedgard01 11-27-2014 03:54 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2326543)
Anybody know what these connectors are ?


If my memory serves me right, I think they are used to program the shades to prevent them from going down too far when the key is on, etc. I don't think they will be used unless you have an issue with the shades, or they need to be replaced, etc.


Ted

bigdaddy5120 11-27-2014 04:55 PM

Can someone post a pic of the residential refrigerator door lock on the 2015's ? I heard that THOR put a lock on these to keep your food from spilling out during travel. Anyone come up with a good solution for the 2014"s ? I have been using a bungee cord .

Also has anyone put any speakers up front ? I can't hear mine while traveling without blasting them because they are located behind you in the ceiling.

sbleiweiss 11-27-2014 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2326718)
Can someone post a pic of the residential refrigerator door lock on the 2015's ? I heard that THOR put a lock on these to keep your food from spilling out during travel. Anyone come up with a good solution for the 2014"s ? I have been using a bungee cord .

Also has anyone put any speakers up front ? I can't hear mine while traveling without blasting them because they are located behind you in the ceiling.

We have a 2014.5 challenger KT. Thor drilled a hole in the fridge between the refrigerator door and the freezer door, and put a long screw with a flat plastic head on it to keep the doors locked shut while travelling. A rather primitive fix, but it does the job. We actually put a larger head on to keep the doors shut for sure.

okiefrank 11-28-2014 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2326446)
Probably the power box where the 50 amp hooks up. The name of the device escapes me (transformer, converter??).... On my Challenger, it is in the last bay on the driver's side of the coach. Does she sleep on the far side of the bed (away from the bathroom)? That is my guess... Also, the water heater is on that side. Regardless, the A/C and/or heater are far louder....


Ted

The inverter in my 37GT was located at the head of the bed. The only way to get to it the tech had to crawl under the back side of the bed, remove a panel that exposes the hot water heater, using a flashlight and mirror he found the elusive INVERTER, located at the front side of the bed behind the storage under the bed, It has a breaker on it and it was tripped. We moved it into the compartmewnt under the bed so the lights and breaker can be seen when the raised bed. The breaker being tripped, I had to turn on the inverter any time I wanted to use the TV .
The idiot at tge factory said thats the way they are made,, having to turn on the inverter to view tv even plugged into shore power. After we tripped the breaker on the tv works without the inverter on. It does maker a slight humming sound sometimes.

bigdaddy5120 11-28-2014 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2327026)
We have a 2014.5 challenger KT. Thor drilled a hole in the fridge between the refrigerator door and the freezer door, and put a long screw with a flat plastic head on it to keep the doors locked shut while travelling. A rather primitive fix, but it does the job. We actually put a larger head on to keep the doors shut for sure.

I got this hole on mine between the doors, is this what you talking about ? Also can you post a picture of the setup ?
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...ecaaf7ce3e.jpg

streamcamper 11-28-2014 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2326675)
If my memory serves me right, I think they are used to program the shades to prevent them from going down too far when the key is on, etc. I don't think they will be used unless you have an issue with the shades, or they need to be replaced, etc.


Ted

I was advised same during PDI...

ctpres 11-29-2014 07:28 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#34. Our old coach had the portable surge protector and it was OK but I was sometimes lazy and didn't use it. Also I had concerns about theft and such an expensive item suffering from constant connect/disconnect. So decided to go hardwired this time. Found Surge Guard 34560 on Ebay for $189.00. Biggest problem was, where to install it. Instructions said before ATS or after. After ATS would be ideal as then you get protection for gen and shore power. Our 2015 37KT has some really weird stuff going on with the way things are installed so I couldn't do that without major work. Park power connector is in next to last bay and ATS is in the last. That means gen and park power lines go all the way to the end of coach, go thru ATS and then come back twords the front. Also coming out of ATS the power line leaves basement and runs outside along chassis and then back into basement at the park power connection. Once our coach is out of warranty I will clean that mess up. I just bolted a piece of wood the floor posts for a mounting surface. That put LED lights up high enough to still be seen even with compartment full. Working with that heavy wire was the biggest problem.

tedgard01 11-29-2014 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2328021)
#34. Our old coach had the portable surge protector and it was OK but I was sometimes lazy and didn't use it. Also I had concerns about theft and such an expensive item suffering from constant connect/disconnect. So decided to go hardwired this time. Found Surge Guard 34560 on Ebay for $189.00. Biggest problem was, where to install it. Instructions said before ATS or after. After ATS would be ideal as then you get protection for gen and shore power. Our 2015 37KT has some really weird stuff going on with the way things are installed so I couldn't do that without major work. Park power connector is in next to last bay and ATS is in the last. That means gen and park power lines go all the way to the end of coach, go thru ATS and then come back twords the front. Also coming out of ATS the power line leaves basement and runs outside along chassis and then back into basement at the park power connection. Once our coach is out of warranty I will clean that mess up. I just bolted a piece of wood the floor posts for a mounting surface. That put LED lights up high enough to still be seen even with compartment full. Working with that heavy wire was the biggest problem.


Great job!


Ted

sbleiweiss 11-29-2014 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2327300)
I got this hole on mine between the doors, is this what you talking about ? Also can you post a picture of the setup ?
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...ecaaf7ce3e.jpg

You must have a different refrigferator than we do, but I assume that is the hole I am talking about. Didn't it come with a black screw-in thing with a head on it about an inch across to hold the doors closed while screwed in? We are on the road and the only camera we have would be the cell phone. If we take a pix how do we post it?

ctpres 11-29-2014 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2324184)
For those of you more tech savvy than me, I have been told different things by different Thor dealers. Does the chassis battery charge when the MH is plugged into 50 amp service? 30 amp? 20 amp?

Decided to setup a test and check it out to confirm. Ran chassis battery down to almost 12V. Chassis battery is charged from shore power IF house batteries are not disconnected with the disconnect switch. Disconnect switch off - no batteries charging. Disconnect on - house and chassis batteries are being charged. So if you are wanting to stop battery charge during long term storage, use disconnect switch AND manually disconnect chassis battery. Same thing applies if parked for long time.

ctpres 11-29-2014 03:59 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#35. I am finding fuses all over the place. Most are close to device - so I just remove fuse and see what doesn't work. Once I know what fuse is for I label it with one of these little tags. Cost less than $3 per 100 on Ebay.

sbleiweiss 11-30-2014 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2328410)
Decided to setup a test and check it out to confirm. Ran chassis battery down to almost 12V. Chassis battery is charged from shore power IF house batteries are not disconnected with the disconnect switch. Disconnect switch off - no batteries charging. Disconnect on - house and chassis batteries are being charged. So if you are wanting to stop battery charge during long term storage, use disconnect switch AND manually disconnect chassis battery. Same thing applies if parked for long time.

Very helpful, thanks. So this gets back to a pet peave of DW. You can't tell by looking at the switch whether the battery disconnect is on or off. Has anyone figured out a work around for this? Either a switch that has a fixed on and off position (like most light switches) or one with a light that lights when on?

ctpres 11-30-2014 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2329397)
Very helpful, thanks. So this gets back to a pet peave of DW. You can't tell by looking at the switch whether the battery disconnect is on or off. Has anyone figured out a work around for this? Either a switch that has a fixed on and off position (like most light switches) or one with a light that lights when on?

Interesting question. If anyone knows where the relay is that actually does the switching - let us know. In our 2010 Damon the relay was on the firewall in the engine compartment. I haven't spent five minutes under the hood. I did quick look at house battery setup and there are big 12V cables going in every direction, so the actual relay could be anywhere. I would expect it to be somewhere between batteries and converter. Since it clicks when switched maybe it's a job for two - one with good directional hearing.

tedgard01 11-30-2014 09:54 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2329397)
Very helpful, thanks. So this gets back to a pet peave of DW. You can't tell by looking at the switch whether the battery disconnect is on or off. Has anyone figured out a work around for this? Either a switch that has a fixed on and off position (like most light switches) or one with a light that lights when on?


Yes, you can not tell by looking at the switch, but if you click the disconnect switch to disconnect the batteries, you can not turn on the lights in the coach or the outside light, you will not have the light on the convection oven, the camera display will not display the time, the inverter does not turn on, etc. Therefore, a simple way to know may be to simply leave the inside light on, then click the switch. If the light stays on then the house batteries are connected, if they go out, you disconnected the batteries.


Ted

LyonsL 12-01-2014 08:41 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2327300)
I got this hole on mine between the doors, is this what you talking about ? Also can you post a picture of the setup ?
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...ecaaf7ce3e.jpg

I've included photos of the refrigerator lock.

sbleiweiss 12-01-2014 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2330068)
Yes, you can not tell by looking at the switch, but if you click the disconnect switch to disconnect the batteries, you can not turn on the lights in the coach or the outside light, you will not have the light on the convection oven, the camera display will not display the time, the inverter does not turn on, etc. Therefore, a simple way to know may be to simply leave the inside light on, then click the switch. If the light stays on then the house batteries are connected, if they go out, you disconnected the batteries.


Ted

All true Ted, but that doesn't help you if someone just brushes against the switch by accident on the way in or out. It sure would be nice if it had some visual indicator.

tedgard01 12-01-2014 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2330514)
All true Ted, but that doesn't help you if someone just brushes against the switch by accident on the way in or out. It sure would be nice if it had some visual indicator.


Agree with that. I assume your switch must be on the wall by the stairwell, which is where mine was on my old coach. On my 37GT, the switch is in a cabinet above the door.


Ted

bigdaddy5120 12-01-2014 07:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2330393)
I've included photos of the refrigerator lock.

Thanks . I think I can make that or find one. I think I will call THOR and see if they will send me one.

LyonsL 12-01-2014 09:06 PM

Privacy issue with 2 blinds in the 2015 Thor Challenger 37KT
 
2 Attachment(s)
I'm new to this group and I've learned a lot from the postings in this thread. I ordered and purchased a new Challenger 37KT in July of this year and have made a few modifications to the coach. I'd like to share an important problem & fix.
This is my 3rd motorhome and each time I buy one I do a "walk around" the coach at night with all of the interior lights on and all of the curtains and blinds closed. I look for gaps in the blinds or curtains that would allow someone to see inside the coach at night.
I found that the rear bedroom window and the kitchen window of the Challenger 37KT do not have side extensions or curtains. That's not a big problem until you stand outside the coach and look through the gap between the window and blind (about 1"). Both of those windows are next to mirrors and when you look through the gaps you can see reflections in the mirrors and you get a very good view of the rooms reflected in those mirrors! For the Challenger 37KT, you can see a reflection of most of the bedroom and also the kitchen / livingroom areas.
For a simple fix, my wife made side curtains for those windows which were very easy to install. We believe they also add a nicer look to the windows. I've attached photos of the side curtains. No more "peeping toms".

tedgard01 12-01-2014 10:33 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2331186)
... For a simple fix, my wife made side curtains for those windows which were very easy to install. We believe they also add a nicer look to the windows...


First, if Tom was peeping in our windows, poor guy, probably lost his sight.... (or at least needs strong med's after being board into a mind numbing sickness).

I love your fix. How much does your wife charge?

Is there a weight at the bottom? How did you attach them under the valance?


Ted

ctpres 12-02-2014 08:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2331186)
.
For a simple fix, my wife made side curtains for those windows which were very easy to install. We believe they also add a nicer look to the windows. I've attached photos of the side curtains. No more "peeping toms".

Great idea for privacy reason PLUS it will block early morning light. I looked at adding the hard side trim just like other windows but gave up when I figured out that it would restrict movement on that side of bed and would create problems using window as emergency exit. The curtain idea is SO SIMPLE. X2 request for more details on how it was done.

LyonsL 12-02-2014 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2331289)
First, if Tom was peeping in our windows, poor guy, probably lost his sight.... (or at least needs strong med's after being board into a mind numbing sickness).

I love your fix. How much does your wife charge?

Is there a weight at the bottom? How did you attach them under the valance?


Ted

Ted, the wife is a retired seamstress and now she only does work for us!

The curtains are attached to the valance with Velcro. I had to remove the valances and staple Velcro strips to them (using very short staples). The wife sewed matching Velcro strips to the top of the curtains. She wanted an easy way to remove them in case they get dirty or torn.
The bottom of the side curtains are held in place with plastic hold down clips that you can find at most RV dealers or here: RV Designer Collection Side Curtain Hold Down

ctpres 12-02-2014 08:57 AM

37KT shower door question
 
Which side, left or right, is your door handle on? Our shower enclosure is probably upside down! It came with handle on right and rubber drip guard on top. Not enough clearance to move it to bottom, in fact I had to file some excess material off bottom for proper door closure. I removed top trim and it looks like panels interlock so the whole thing would need to be removed and inverted. Which I think can't be done without removing cabinets!

LyonsL 12-02-2014 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2331568)
Great idea for privacy reason PLUS it will block early morning light. I looked at adding the hard side trim just like other windows but gave up when I figured out that it would restrict movement on that side of bed and would create problems using window as emergency exit. The curtain idea is SO SIMPLE. X2 request for more details on how it was done.

ctpres, It does block all of the early morning light and was much easier than building, covering and installing wooden trim. It does not restrict movement on that side of the bed.
Also, I used your earlier suggestion and moved the valance over the rear bedroom window so we could fully open the door to the side closet (thanks for sharing that). After doing that, you could see that the valance was off-center with the window but the side curtains completely hide that now.

ctpres 12-02-2014 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2331589)
Ted, the wife is a retired seamstress and now she only does work for us!

The curtains are attached to the valance with Velcro. I had to remove the valances and staple Velcro strips to them (using very short staples). The wife sewed matching Velcro strips to the top of the curtains. She wanted an easy way to remove them in case they get dirty or torn.
The bottom of the side curtains are held in place with plastic hold down clips that you can find at most RV dealers or here: RV Designer Collection Side Curtain Hold Down

Looked at hold down - does it slip into a pocket at the bottom?

LyonsL 12-02-2014 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2331704)
Looked at hold down - does it slip into a pocket at the bottom?

Yes, the curtains have a pocket hem on the bottom and slide onto the hold down brackets.

ctpres 12-02-2014 11:41 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#36. No glove box or other decent place for vehicle papers - like license and registration. Easy answer for me - money clip. Less then $1.00 shipping and taxes included on Ebay. Come in stainless black or chrome. Secured to wall with command strip. As it came, papers in plastic holder were a very tight fit in the clip. Ten seconds with needle nose pliers to bend the small/center clip out a bit and done.

JohnG2013KT 12-03-2014 09:49 AM

very interesting .. this has been a sore spot with the wife since day one .. i've got the same setup .. though on mine, there is a white plug .. was wondering if the hole is threaded or did that have to be done to complete the setup ?

JohnG2013KT 12-03-2014 10:32 AM

never mid ... popped off what I thought was a plug and it turned out to be just a simple white plastic screw cover .. common to autos .. .behind it was a torx screw about 1" long .. So now, I'm off to Lowe's to find a bolt and suitable head to use. hmmm . .Now, I'm wondering what if anything that screw was there for? .. If nothing, then why in the heck didn't Thor just go ahead and include the 'fix' in the first place?

ctpres 12-03-2014 11:36 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#37. Only put 50 amp cord away one time and that was enough for me. Looked at all the cord reels I could find and decided on manual Mor/ride REEL56-001 $186 plus tax and free ship from Amazon. Can be mounted with handle on left or right. Bottom is open and that was important. I mounted over the cable hatch as shown in pictures - that allowed me to keep a large bin in the open space to the right. Well constructed. DW tested with no real effort by unrolling and rolling up our 30 foot 50 amp cord. Notice in pic that top of reel is even with bottom of passthru for easy stuff removal. There is a brake on the handle to keep it from unrolling underway. Easy two hand operation - one hand holding rag around cable to clean it and guide it during rollup while the other hand cranks. Installed with four screws straight to bottom of bay in five minutes. One of my ideas on installing was to hang from ceiling to keep space on floor for storage. Factory said NO and after thinking about it I agree - no way four screws would hold all that weight on the road. One reason for low price, there is a new model with a different new and improved handle design. If you want the same price I wouldn't wait to long

sbleiweiss 12-03-2014 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2331648)
Which side, left or right, is your door handle on? Our shower enclosure is probably upside down! It came with handle on right and rubber drip guard on top. Not enough clearance to move it to bottom, in fact I had to file some excess material off bottom for proper door closure. I removed top trim and it looks like panels interlock so the whole thing would need to be removed and inverted. Which I think can't be done without removing cabinets!

Ours is exactly how you describe and we have leakage at bottom. They added a plastic strip at bottom which helped but not complete solution. Both Thor and a dealer have looked at it, and neither concluded it was upside down.

ctpres 12-03-2014 11:48 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#38. Removed and re-installed plastic dash cover for the third time while installing a GPS tracking device. Found hitting the same screw hole thru fabric cover was very difficult. Answer drywall screw anchors. Confirm no wires under current hole and enlarge to suit anchor. I did not drive anchors all the way flush with board. I stopped them roughly flush with top of fabric. Prior coach had cracked cover due to shop overtightening screws. Figured raised anchor head might help prevent that in future.

LyonsL 12-03-2014 03:05 PM

Low Entry Step
 
1 Attachment(s)
The first (bottom) inside entry step of our Challenger 37KT was lower than the door sill and it was awkward and uncomfortable when entering or exiting the coach. I pulled up the ribbed plastic floor covering, glued & screwed down two pieces of 1/2" plywood and reinstalled the floor covering. Now the step is flush with the door sill and seems more natural to walk on. I did not take a "before" photo but have attached an "after" photo.

ctpres 12-03-2014 03:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2333148)
The first (bottom) inside entry step of our Challenger 37KT was lower than the door sill and it was awkward and uncomfortable when entering or exiting the coach. I pulled up the ribbed plastic floor covering, glued & screwed down two pieces of 1/2" plywood and reinstalled the floor covering. Now the step is flush with the door sill and seems more natural to walk on. I did not take a "before" photo but have attached an "after" photo.

Oh no you beat me to it. Good job - that thing is a real hazard when barefoot. One of those why have they been doing it the same/wrong way for so many years?

Don and Dale 12-03-2014 07:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2331768)
Yes, the curtains have a pocket hem on the bottom and slide onto the hold down brackets.


Tell your wife she did an amazing job. Nice work LyonsL.

LyonsL 12-03-2014 08:50 PM

New Curtains for the Front Side Windows
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Don and Dale (Post 2333468)
Tell your wife she did an amazing job. Nice work LyonsL.

Thanks for the compliment but those were the easy ones. The only thing we disliked about the new coach were the factory curtains for the front side windows. Made from a cheap, stiff paper / cardboard, a very poor excuse for curtains. The wife decided they would have to go and she made new curtains that look and work great. Thank goodness she can sew, it saved us a lot of cash.

LyonsL 12-03-2014 09:01 PM

Furnace Ducting
 
2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2290688)
#19. One thing always leads to another. Opened blank panel under sink for fire extinguisher storage project (more on that later) and found a tangled mess of heater ducting. Sharp bends and one pinched to about half size. Disconnected all at furnace - stretched out to nearly maximum per install instructions - cut off excess and reinstalled. Only had to remove one half of sink floor to work with reasonable comfort. Now more air moving out every register. Removed over six feet of duct. Also noted that is spite very large return air grill under frig - return air is restricted by very small hole between cabinets. Decided to leave that as is for now. Picture shows finished project.

Thanks for sharing this! I checked my coach and found the same mess. I did the same mod and now have much improved airflow from the furnace!

tedgard01 12-03-2014 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2332919)
#37. ... manual Mor/ride REEL56-001 ...


How does it work? Do you leave your 50 amp cord plugged into the coach all the time? In other words, when you roll up the cord do you have to disconnect both ends or just the one connected to the shore power?

It looks like it is installed directly over the floor access holes. Does that make it difficult to pull the cord through the access hole when extending it (or back through it when rolling it up)?


Ted

Don and Dale 12-04-2014 07:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2333547)
Thanks for the compliment but those were the easy ones. The only thing we disliked about the new coach were the factory curtains for the front side windows. Made from a cheap, stiff paper / cardboard, a very poor excuse for curtains. The wife decided they would have to go and she made new curtains that look and work great. Thank goodness she can sew, it saved us a lot of cash.


My wife sews too, and I have to admit she's darn good at it. Our first trip out inflected some serious discussion on those curtains. Having the 29.2, ours are suppose to shade the front windshield along with the sides. She disliked them so much we refused to use them and made some "temporary" sunshades out of insulating material to sit into place. Come spring, we'll have new curtains to install. For now, she took a year contract to teach special education (she retired from the same) and loves the kids. However, that isn't stopping me from doing my mods......I love my life!! :)

sbleiweiss 12-04-2014 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2333562)
Thanks for sharing this! I checked my coach and found the same mess. I did the same mod and now have much improved airflow from the furnace!

For those who have fixed the tangled ductwork, and especially the writer that posted the pix, what year and model Challenger do you have?

LyonsL 12-04-2014 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2334103)
For those who have fixed the tangled ductwork, and especially the writer that posted the pix, what year and model Challenger do you have?

Mine is a 2015 Challenger 37KT. Came off the line in July of this year.

LyonsL 12-04-2014 12:26 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2331648)
Which side, left or right, is your door handle on? Our shower enclosure is probably upside down! It came with handle on right and rubber drip guard on top. Not enough clearance to move it to bottom, in fact I had to file some excess material off bottom for proper door closure. I removed top trim and it looks like panels interlock so the whole thing would need to be removed and inverted. Which I think can't be done without removing cabinets!

I checked mine today and found the top and bottom door channels both have the same plastic / rubber strips. Mine does not leak at the bottom and there is enough clearance to easy shut the door. Maybe yours is missing the plastic / rubber strip? I've attached photos.

ctpres 12-04-2014 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2333674)
How does it work? Do you leave your 50 amp cord plugged into the coach all the time? In other words, when you roll up the cord do you have to disconnect both ends or just the one connected to the shore power?

It looks like it is installed directly over the floor access holes. Does that make it difficult to pull the cord through the access hole when extending it (or back through it when rolling it up)?


Ted

Try this youtube for demo.
https://https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HnvfYPIxur4
Cord comes completely out of reel for use, ie. both ends disconnected unless one end is fixed/hardwired or you want to leave one end plugged. In that case you start with the plug and just roll up excess.
I installed reel directly over cable ports intentionally - to make best use of remaining floor space. I just unroll the whole cord, feed connector up thru the (white in pic) cable port, thru space inside reel to recepticle directly above.

ctpres 12-04-2014 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2334103)
For those who have fixed the tangled ductwork, and especially the writer that posted the pix, what year and model Challenger do you have?

OP here: 2015 37KT

ctpres 12-04-2014 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2334187)
I checked mine today and found the top and bottom door channels both have the same plastic / rubber strips. Mine does not leak at the bottom and there is enough clearance to easy shut the door. Maybe yours is missing the plastic / rubber strip? I've attached photos.

Thanks - I think you answered my question with "two rubber strips." Ours only had one and that was on top SO I assumed it was installed upside down. No bottom strip on ours as there is not even enough room for one. Door barely closes without it. Back to drawing board on how to fix it.

ctpres 12-05-2014 12:45 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#39.Finally got new plates after two month wait. While I was at it decided to spruce things up a bit by painting plate frame with dealer advertising and the screw heads. Had to hold off on "almost" theft proof plate installation as 3/16 x 1 carriage bolts are out of stock at local store.

LyonsL 12-06-2014 11:29 AM

2nd Towel Bar in Bathroom
 
1 Attachment(s)
My wife prefers "his & her's" towel bars in the bathroom so I ordered a factory towel bar from our RV Dealer and installed it on the opposite wall from the original. Happy Wife = Happy Life!

ctpres 12-07-2014 04:21 PM

Chassis battery drain
 
Did not fix this yet - so no number, just wanted to give y'all a heads up so you can fix it if it is important to you. Have read several posts regarding battery drain caused by Jensen radio, and now I know why. Radio installation diagram shows two +12v power connections. One is constant and the other is switched or on with keyswitch. Guess they couldn't make a fused 12v switched connection so they just wired them together to always on 12v. So the radio can't go into standby and draw less power. If I can't find a better source I will eventually connect switched lead to dash fans power, which is switched. If you try switched source, please test first as I am not sure what will happen to camera turn on time with turn signal trigger. There could be an unwanted camera on delay time during lane changes or turns. Test both ways before calling it done.

JustanowlAZ 12-07-2014 11:14 PM

Need some advice
 
Greetings all...The DW and I are looking at two different Class A's, A Coachmen Mirada 35BH and the Challenger 37TB. After reading back through this forum about a month, I'm wondering what overall you think of your Challenger's now. Sounds like a lot of inconsistent construction practices in the Challenger...

So can you help us make a decision? Would you get your Challenger again? Are there any issues common to the Challenger line? Any pitfalls we should know about?

On the plus side...We're looking forward to getting on the road and doing some traveling...maybe even taking our business on the road...With The amount of money we are looking at spending, just want to make sure we are making the best decision...

Thanks...


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