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LyonsL 12-30-2014 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2362773)
Glad it was some help. You might want to look at these flip shades , I would have bought them but I didn't find out about them until I had already odered the quick shades.Products | Magne Shade | UV Fabrics, Sunshade for RV, RV Shade, Installs from the ground, Magnetic Shade, Magnet Sun Shade
Side Window curtains :
I am thinking of borrowing the idea I found in the Palazzo mod thread about making a filler piece for the angled windows and installing a pull down shades. The shape of side windows are wider at the bottom than the top thus making it impossable to to install a pull down shade to cover the entire window without a filler. Any thoughts on this ? Here is a link to Palazzo mod thread : https://www.irv2.com/forums/f281/pala...ml#post1937424

I also thought about installing the dual shades and making a filler piece but decided to simply replace the curtains instead. We were planning to spend the winter months in the coach and the wife wanted to replace the factory curtains quickly and easily so she made the replacement curtains.

The flip shades might be a better fit for us. I like the idea of using the flip shade to cover half of the side window to protect us from the glaring sun while driving. I also like how they store when not in use. After watching the video, I'm assuming that they are cut in a square or rectangular shape and might not flip up properly if cut to fit the exact shape of the side window. That would be fine for our purposes. They would still cover most of the window to block the sun while parked.

Thanks again for the info.

ctpres 01-01-2015 08:16 AM

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1 Attachment(s)
#44. Got lucky I guess. DW pulled roll of TP from our new undersink storage and it was WET. Since roof vents, drain plumbing and numerous water lines run under sink I wasted a lot of time looking in the wrong place. Turned out: 1. have not calibrated auto level and coach slightly tilts down from back to front, 2. water pressure at that park was a bit higher than normal and 3. I failed to use pressure regulator.
Water was dripping from BOTH hot water tank plumbing connections. Channel lock pliers and tightened both fittings - leak fixed. Several hours with fans and heaters running dried wet wood and averted any damage. I saw signs of leak by removing service panel under mattress at head of bed. But to get at water heater I had to remove everything from aft side of under bed storage, bend my old body way beyond it's normal range and get into bed storage space in order to remove large service panel and work on the connections. Note in picture that water heater bypass valves are still being used even though new plumbing control valve is supposed to have water heater bypass position. Do I have two water heater bypass's, one being redundant and very hard to get to? I probably won't answer that question until I have to winterize - which I hope is never. Also note that if bypass plumbing is redundant a lot of water is wasted clearing all that extra plumbing waiting for hot water at faucet. Boondockers could save water by removing all excess plumbing on the aft side of tank connections. Not to mention eliminating about TWENTY unnecessary pex connections, adding plumbing parts to your spare parts supply and with a bit of woodwork you could increase under bed storage space.

bigdaddy5120 01-01-2015 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365088)
#44. Got lucky I guess. DW pulled roll of TP from our new undersink storage and it was WET. Since roof vents, drain plumbing and numerous water lines run under sink I wasted a lot of time looking in the wrong place. Turned out: 1. have not calibrated auto level and coach slightly tilts down from back to front, 2. water pressure at that park was a bit higher than normal and 3. I failed to use pressure regulator.
Water was dripping from BOTH hot water tank plumbing connections. Channel lock pliers and tightened both fittings - leak fixed. Several hours with fans and heaters running dried wet wood and averted any damage. I saw signs of leak by removing service panel under mattress at head of bed. But to get at water heater I had to remove everything from aft side of under bed storage, bend my old body way beyond it's normal range and get into bed storage space in order to remove large service panel and work on the connections. Note in picture that water heater bypass valves are still being used even though new plumbing control valve is supposed to have water heater bypass position. Do I have two water heater bypass's, one being redundant and very hard to get to? I probably won't answer that question until I have to winterize - which I hope is never. Also note that if bypass plumbing is redundant a lot of water is wasted clearing all that extra plumbing waiting for hot water at faucet. Boondockers could save water by removing all excess plumbing on the aft side of tank connections. Not to mention eliminating about TWENTY unnecessary pex connections, adding plumbing parts to your spare parts supply and with a bit of woodwork you could increase under bed storage space.

WOW! I guess they really changed where things are located on the 2015 KT, I can access my water heater from under the kitchen sink through an access panel.

I never use the auto level feature anymore, don't like the violent way it jerks the coach around and the fact that most of the time it will pull the back wheels off the ground. I always use the manual way and am able to level and keep the wheels on the ground. I carry a 3 foot level to use to check the coach , I trust that more than what was programmed. I guess some day I will reprogram mine.

The only leak I have experienced was under the kitchen sink, seems they didn't tighten the sink plumbing up to well , I used some Teflon tape and tightened all connections for both the kitchen and bathroom sinks. After I hook up I always check for leaks(with a flash light) about 30 minutes after I connect the water.

Anyways hope you don't have anymore problems !! Happy 2015 !

ctpres 01-01-2015 01:39 PM

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1 Attachment(s)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

ctpres 01-01-2015 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2365152)
WOW! I guess they really changed where things are located on the 2015 KT

Yes - big time! Water heater under bed and furnace under kitchen sink. That leaves space under frig open, other than being used as return air for furnace. As soon as I figure out how to get adequate air return surface area - our frig will be sitting on the floor where it belongs. AND DW can get to the whole freezer without a step stool! PS - haven't told her that yet. Don't want to be rushed into the project.
Re. auto level. My experience has been - once calibrated - it works pretty good. BTW 15KT has newest Lippert leveling controller. Complete with display. I am getting used to it and like it much better than the old one. It's part of the Rapid Camp system.

sbleiweiss 01-01-2015 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365604)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

Very cool! We have that too but I had no idea until you pointed it out. Thanks.

ctpres 01-02-2015 07:24 AM

Dumb design #2
 
Dumb/Bad design number one was rear gas fill.

#2 Smoke detector installed on ceiling at top of entry stairs about five feet from cooktop. Convection/microwave vent hood has provisions for external vent but none installed! When using cooktop burners, smoke detector goes off. If using convection built in vent hood - smoke detector just goes off sooner as vent blows air straight at detector. Smoke detector is designed so that if battery is removed it won't latch closed (THIS IS GOOD) - so our detector battery is removed and detector lid is taped closed (NOT GOOD.) The only other option is to use kitchen ceiling vent fan as an exhaust fan. NOT GOOD - you are wasting a large volume of heated/cooled air and eventually ceiling will become coated with grease!
From a "life safety" standpoint the entry detector provides virtually no protection for sleeping occupants of front or rear bedroom with doors closed. Following is worth repeating.


Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2270708)
#6 Our 2010 Damon Daybreak and our 2015 Thor Challenger came from factory with only one smoke detector. I was in alarm business for over thirty years and am not aware of any code that would allow that. Without the details - there must be a smoke detector in EVERY sleeping area and one outside sleeping area. In the 37KT floor plan that means THREE detectors. I added two before we even spent the first night in our new RV. One in front and rear sleeping areas. Detectors exactly like the one in our 2015 are available from Lowes, $9.47 for a package of two. Lowe's item number 304184 or First Alert number FG200B2. Do your family a favor and be sure you have enough detectors for your floor plan. If you are not sure how many you need - PM me with floor plan and length of RV. Basically if there is a door or even curtain between existing detector and a bed - there needs to be a detector added.


ctpres 01-02-2015 11:15 AM

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2 Attachment(s)
#46. DW and I are really not very big people - but we both found it nearly impossible to shower without hitting faucet handle and getting shockingly hot or cold water. Then suffering thru readjustment. At first I considered replacing handles with round ones or even cutting some off end of handle and smoothing cut end. I finally opted to first try different handle positions. Handle secured to stem with set screw. Since faucet stem had a flat spot that mated with D shaped hole in handle that was not possible without modifying something. I decided to drill plastic handle. First I enlarged hole with 5/16 bit then followed up with 3/8 and a rattail file. Now I can position handle anywhere I want including back in the original position in a mater of seconds.
First pic is before mod and second is after mod with handle rotated to test position.

camato5 01-02-2015 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365604)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

HMMM I have a 2014 Thor Tuscany 40 XTE and I believe I will check under that inside step when I get home. I wonder if they did the same thing as they did on your unit That would be some neat storage. I'll let ya'll know

LyonsL 01-02-2015 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365604)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

I keep "RV breakdown tools" in mine, i.e. triangular reflectors, fluorescent vest, large socket & ratchet to remove rear wheel hubs, truck tire gauge, rags, spare flashlight, etc. It's on a safe side of the coach and you have easy access to it.

LyonsL 01-02-2015 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2366403)
#2 Smoke detector installed on ceiling at top of entry stairs about five feet from cooktop. Convection/microwave vent hood has provisions for external vent but none installed! When using cooktop burners, smoke detector goes off. If using convection built in vent hood - smoke detector just goes off sooner as vent blows air straight at detector. Smoke detector is designed so that if battery is removed it won't latch closed (THIS IS GOOD) - so our detector battery is removed and detector lid is taped closed (NOT GOOD.) The only other option is to use kitchen ceiling vent fan as an exhaust fan. NOT GOOD - you are wasting a large volume of heated/cooled air and eventually ceiling will become coated with grease!
From a "life safety" standpoint the entry detector provides virtually no protection for sleeping occupants of front or rear bedroom with doors closed.

Our previous coach had the same issue. For now, we open the kitchen window slightly and run the kitchen ceiling fan. Come spring (and with a little courage) I will be installing an exhaust vent for the convection microwave.

M72561 01-02-2015 05:10 PM

looking to install a direct tv hd satellite and want to do it myself,has anyone else done this before. I have a 2014 KT

thanks

ctpres 01-02-2015 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2367007)
I keep "RV breakdown tools" in mine, i.e. triangular reflectors, fluorescent vest, large socket & ratchet to remove rear wheel hubs, truck tire gauge, rags, spare flashlight, etc. It's on a safe side of the coach and you have easy access to it.

BINGO! You saved me a lot of thinking. Thanks for sharing.

ctpres 01-03-2015 07:38 AM

My brain won't shut off at night!
 
Originally Posted by LyonsL https://www.irv2.com/forums/images/ir...s/viewpost.gif
I keep "RV breakdown tools" in mine, i.e. triangular reflectors, fluorescent vest, large socket & ratchet to remove rear wheel hubs, truck tire gauge, rags, spare flashlight, etc. It's on a safe side of the coach and you have easy access to it.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2367356)
BINGO! You saved me a lot of thinking. Thanks for sharing.

Woke up this morning with another idea. Sure hope everybody on this thread is a good guy. Don't tell anyone else - SAFE! Have been struggling with best location for ours. Needs: solid mounting surface - location easy to get to and not easy to find. Have already measured and figured out basics of how to do it. Won't happen until we are parked for the winter - probably a multi day job with my limited resources and tools. Until I get around to it LyonsL' s idea is what I am going to do. With a little more planning there is probably enough room for both.

AKJohn 01-03-2015 09:58 AM

"looking to install a direct tv hd satellite and want to do it myself,has anyone else done this before. I have a 2014 KT

thanks"

You might try calling Thor and talk to one of their technicians. I've spoken to them several times and found them very knowledgeable and helpful. They should be able to tell you how to locate the per-wired cable on the roof, etc. Sometimes the time waiting on hold gets a little long but it's worth it.
Good luck.

ctpres 01-03-2015 10:02 AM

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2 Attachment(s)
#47. Have read numerous posts about problems with kitchen counter top extension being weak, short screws etc. Since ours was off level a little I decided to check it out. Only three #6 screws securing hinge to extension and as shown in one picture they were screwed into space between counter top and wood. Safe bet they would not last long. My solution shown in hinge picture. Drilled more screw holes closer to edge of hinge. Reinstalled using three original screws holes for alignment and then added screws at the new holes. Only three #6 securing drop rod. To fix my off level problem I removed drop rod and added cardboard spacers until level and just added fourth screw when done. If yours not level you could just plug original drop rod screw holes and take advantage of the slotted holes to make adjustments rather than adding spacers. I figured plugging holes and drilling so close to original that it might not work.
End results - extension very secure and level. Don't think I would sit on it but bet it will hold anything we will ever put on it.
Hint - To be sure you don't drill into bottom of counter top - put tape on drill bit.

bigdaddy5120 01-03-2015 10:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M72561 (Post 2367110)
looking to install a direct tv hd satellite and want to do it myself,has anyone else done this before. I have a 2014 KT

thanks

I bought the system from amazon( 1,250.00 ) I had it installed at the dealer for 500.00. It is installed upfront beside the TV antenna, All the wiring is run into the upper cabinet above passenger seat. Hope that helps some.

ctpres 01-03-2015 10:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M72561 (Post 2367110)
looking to install a direct tv hd satellite and want to do it myself,has anyone else done this before. I have a 2014 KT
thanks

I considered DIY but decided on letting someone with lots of experience do it. For what it's worth thought. We have Direct at home but I decided on dual service, Direct & Dish capable antenna. Considering just cost of antenna, I can not see forcing myself to be stuck with one provider. We are going with Winegard G2 Carryout with roof mount kit. I will save handle and rubber feet in case we get stuck with no sat view and long term stay. I could just put feet/handle back on and move it as needed. I kinda like having best of both worlds. Portability/fixed install and Dish/Direct provider choice. Only possible down side of dual service antenna is it needs 12vdc and coax. Depends on just what Thor calls prewired.
If all goes well it should be installed next week by Alliance Coach, Wildwood, FL for $360 labor and $752 for material and equipment. Will post results here when done.

ctpres 01-04-2015 10:56 AM

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4 Attachment(s)
#48 First time to really use a'cond and found some of the vents hard to rotate. One vent had loose louver. Vent base is covered by a snap on trim ring. Insert very little of screwdriver tip between ceiling and edge of ring. Pull down. First one is always the hard one. From this point on best to have air off - less mess. Remove vent assembly from ceiling and then use small screwdriver and twist point at snap latch while pushing vent ring out - do not try to eliminate this step as there will be more junk in track. While apart look at each vent wing connector pin and be sure each is snapped in slot below ramp. Note the maximum vent opening is less than 90 degrees. While vent removed is good time to clean duct. I took all of them out - pushed tape measure thru ceiling from one hole to next - attached string with rag on end to tape and pulled rag thru duct several times. Did great job of removing everything including dust. Clean ducts and all vents rotate with ease.

bigdaddy5120 01-05-2015 09:05 PM

Anybody got one of these installed or seen one installed ?
https://www.amazon.com/RV-Electric-He...A3CROTXZWCFF06

ctpres 01-06-2015 08:06 AM

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1 Attachment(s)
#49 Bathroom sliding door rubbing on edge of nightstand counter top. Three ways to fix this. One didn't work and I did the hardest one. First I removed screws for counter top so I could reposition it - opps top glued on - first time I have seen glue used in cabinet assembly. Removed nightstand and carpeted cable cover between it and bed platform. Trimmed shag carpet off sides of cable cover and reinstalled everything, pushing both away from door before setting screws. That got me about 1/8 inch clearance between door to top of nightstand. While testing and admiring my handiwork, I noticed how thick door guide at bottom of door was and how easy it would have been to remove it - shave some off back and get same results with a lot less work. Picture shows carpeted cable cover between bed and night stand, door guide at bottom of door and resulting space at top.

ctpres 01-06-2015 08:38 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
#50. Couple of drawer travel locks not properly latching and drawers opening during travel. Removed drawer and slide from drawer. Put drawer slide back in track without drawer. Then just moved slide in and out to see how far in it needed to be for latch to fully engage. Measured space between new end of drawer slide and front face of cabinet. Reinstalled slide on drawer using results above. In my case, drawer slide was moved almost 1/2 inch to rear of drawer. Latch is adjustable but it won't do any good if latch not fully engaged.

ctpres 01-06-2015 09:27 AM

Will I go to jail?
 
1 Attachment(s)
If the sticker police catch me I might. Looking at the Camping World decal on our coach yesterday and decided they did not do a good enough job to justify me advertising for them all over the US. So I removed both of them. Well you know how it is one thing leads to another. Went inside and saw stickers everywhere. Not any more - all removed and moved to kitchen cabinet door, just in case future owners wants to read them or sticker police make me put em back.

ctpres 01-06-2015 10:00 AM

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2 Attachment(s)
#51. Guess today was a crappy day! Toilet bowl seat so close to straight up when open that once in awhile it would drop down while cleaning bowl. Put a piece of paper between lid end and top of bolt cover and found out where back edge of seat was hitting top of bolt covers. Just a few passes with a file on the offending bumps and now seat tilts back just enough beyond TDC that it will stay up while work is in progress. In pic's I tried to use wall as reference to show seat angle before and after.

sbleiweiss 01-06-2015 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2371626)
Anybody got one of these installed or seen one installed ?
https://www.amazon.com/RV-Electric-He...A3CROTXZWCFF06

No, but I was cleaning the AC returns the other day and noticed that there is a mounting for a supplemental heat unit. So it appears there are two different ways to go if you want another heater. In addition to the portable electrics of course.

ctpres 01-06-2015 12:42 PM

Are you prewired for satellite?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Well maybe! According to Thor there is a decal on the roof showing where coax is located. Not on ours. So where is the coax? So far they have not been able to answer that question. Thought some of you might like to have this drawing. BTW they said prewired with coax only. That means some installs will be a lot of extra work. If you do have a decal on the roof I recommend you take a picture and measure the location as the decal may not last very long. Ours didn't. If you have decal or already installed satellite would you show or tell me where your coax is.

DMcRaney 01-06-2015 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2371626)
Anybody got one of these installed or seen one installed ?
https://www.amazon.com/RV-Electric-He...A3CROTXZWCFF06

Sorry its been awhile since I have been able to post. Yes, we have a cheep heat on our 37GT. We were full time late Jan-April 2014 in Kansas City. I dont know if you know how bad it got there, but we spent almost 6 weeks below freezing and 5-7 days below zero.

I can safely say that one) the coach was never ment to be used in that weather, two) we could not get the loacl gas company to call us back so renting a tank was out of the option, three) cheep heat was the only option to moving the coach a couple of times a week to refill the tank, and four) we did not die.

The loacl camping world had never herd of it, but a independent RV repair place had and agreed to try and instal it. It required some conversations with the guy who owns cheep heat. He was not very easy to work with.

One of the things we learned it it actually has three settings for heat output that has to be selected at time of instal and can not be changed without a lot of work. The number of ducts, bends, and other factors determine which temperature option is recommended for the coach. The 2014.5 37GT that we have calls for the lowest setting.

At that setting it did not warm anything, so we had them change it to the middle setting. They would not set it to high. At that setting it seems to run fine and heated the coach (along with two space heaters in the front, but remember we where in the teens most nights).

The only other real draw back is it will not run off the generator. So if you have access to shore power it works great. The other major issue we ran into was the sewage line freezing, but that is another story.

Dave

bigdaddy5120 01-06-2015 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMcRaney (Post 2372641)
Sorry its been awhile since I have been able to post. Yes, we have a cheep heat on our 37GT. We were full time late Jan-April 2014 in Kansas City. I dont know if you know how bad it got there, but we spent almost 6 weeks below freezing and 5-7 days below zero.

I can safely say that one) the coach was never ment to be used in that weather, two) we could not get the loacl gas company to call us back so renting a tank was out of the option, three) cheep heat was the only option to moving the coach a couple of times a week to refill the tank, and four) we did not die.

The loacl camping world had never herd of it, but a independent RV repair place had and agreed to try and instal it. It required some conversations with the guy who owns cheep heat. He was not very easy to work with.

One of the things we learned it it actually has three settings for heat output that has to be selected at time of instal and can not be changed without a lot of work. The number of ducts, bends, and other factors determine which temperature option is recommended for the coach. The 2014.5 37GT that we have calls for the lowest setting.

At that setting it did not warm anything, so we had them change it to the middle setting. They would not set it to high. At that setting it seems to run fine and heated the coach (along with two space heaters in the front, but remember we where in the teens most nights).

The only other real draw back is it will not run off the generator. So if you have access to shore power it works great. The other major issue we ran into was the sewage line freezing, but that is another story.

Dave

Thanks for the information, as I don't fulltime in ours and shouldn't be in the coach in those kind of temps , sounds like it would work for me. I don't like propane heat and the small electric heaters to me aren't that safe. So I found this option and it seams it will work. I was able to install the electric heating element in my previous 5th wheel, but that's not an option this time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2372246)
No, but I was cleaning the AC returns the other day and noticed that there is a mounting for a supplemental heat unit. So it appears there are two different ways to go if you want another heater. In addition to the portable electrics of course.

As fate has it , I can't do this with my model AC unit :banghead:

bigdaddy5120 01-06-2015 07:01 PM

Well after checking into the cheapheat system , 550.00 for the system, and 1200-1500 for install. I think I will pass on that no more than we would need the heat.

ctpres 01-07-2015 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2372921)
Well after checking into the cheapheat system , 550.00 for the system, and 1200-1500 for install. I think I will pass on that no more than we would need the heat.

Look into kickspace heaters. I put one in our Damon kitchen and coupled with a radiant heater in bedroom (no fan for quiet heat) we were happy and warm. We set digital thermostat for comfort and propane thermostat for back-up in case of power failure or really cold weather and electric couldn't keep up - which only happened in below freezing temps. Basically you put several heaters in strategic locations - each with a $5 12v110v electronic solid state relay for central thermostat control and it's own 110 breaker. Run 12v wire from each heater to battery powered residential thermostat. The whole coach heating system cost a lot less than the cheapheat. My biggest problem with cheapheat is heat distribution. If you don't like heat distribution with propane - cheapheat won't be any better and will have the same high noise level. Come to Zachary Taylor RV resort in Okeechobee this winter and I'll help you put it in. Or you can wait until I get around to doing it on ours and describing it here. My plan is small radiant wall heater in bedroom, kickspace heater in kitchen and a digital thermostat controlling bedroom, kitchen AND fireplace. Very rough estimate for the whole DIY project is around $400.

sbleiweiss 01-07-2015 10:24 AM

The other major issue we ran into was the sewage line freezing, but that is another story.

Dave[/QUOTE]

So you obviously weren't winterized. Please tell us how the heat vents to the water basements worked in that cold. Other than the sewer line, did you have any freezing line problems?

ctpres 01-07-2015 04:47 PM

Are you prewired for satellite #2
 
1 Attachment(s)
Two holes in roof and NO COAX! PO'ed with Thor to say the least. This drawing may be helpful to others, but not us. Couple more problems like this and they won't be able to shut me up.

bigdaddy5120 01-07-2015 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2374130)
Two holes in roof and NO COAX! PO'ed with Thor to say the least. This drawing may be helpful to others, but not us. Couple more problems like this and they won't be able to shut me up.

I feel your pain. I have 4 HD TV's and the only one that had RG6 and HDMI was the living room tv. I don't think this will be much help but check this thread I started . It shows the path that was used by CW when my HDMI and RG6 coax was run to all TV's.https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/my-2...de-190970.html

This cost me 700.00 to have done but it was a must for me.

ctpres 01-10-2015 06:10 AM

Follow-up to our satellite install. Installation was done by Alliance Coach, Wildwood, FL. In spite of problems with Thor prewire, they did a great job on the install and it works great. Had to run all new coax do to Thor sloppy prewire and or very bad documentation. Thor was depending on a decal stuck on roof for coax location. Did they ever think how long decal would stay on when dealer shinned new rig up for sale using pressure washer? I can think of a number of different ways to mark coax location and a decal would never enter my mind. I mentioned it before - if you have a decal on your roof - document the location with pictures and your own measurements. I would paint or stain the spot. I decided on the Winegard Carryout G2 for several reasons: Works with DTV or Dish so I am not hostage to one service provider, roof mountable but can be removed and used as portable if needed, Winegard support given high marks in product reviews and very few negative reports from actual G2 users. Only down side for the G2 is it needs 12vdc and for roof mount that will add to the labor involved since Thor only prewires the coax. Antenna housing was mounted on the roof centerline behind the kitchen ceiling vent. I liked that location much better than what seems to be most common - just behind windshield. Farther back affords some dome protection by having a'cond and other stuff taking hits before the fragile dome. G2 only needs 2 amps so you could pick up the 12v at the fan motor. We used DTV receiver from S&B which turned out to be factory default on antenna switch settings. Followed G2 DTV setup instructions in manual and was watching TV in minutes (not counting the receiver startup time.) I need to clean up the last couple feet of wiring and install a power switch before I can call it done.

bigdaddy5120 01-10-2015 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2377405)
Followed G2 DTV setup instructions in manual and was watching TV in minutes (not counting the receiver startup time.) I need to clean up the last couple feet of wiring and install a power switch before I can call it done.

Just a note if you have Directv this unit will not do HD.
  • Compatible Satellite Providers: DIRECTV SD, DISH SD & HD, Bell SD & HD
  • DIRECTV Satellites: 101 or 119
  • DISH Satellites: 110, 119, 129
  • Bell TV Satellites: 91 or 82

RVredneck 01-10-2015 07:40 PM

Got the call last week our coach is on the assembly line. Heading to Elkhart tomorrow to see our RV getting assembled on Monday and Tuesday. Pretty excited!!

bigdaddy5120 01-10-2015 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2378390)
Got the call last week our coach is on the assembly line. Heading to Elkhart tomorrow to see our RV getting assembled on Monday and Tuesday. Pretty excited!!

Congratulations! I'm sure that will be very neat to see !! I know you will enjoy it.

sbleiweiss 01-11-2015 04:54 AM

Has anyone replaced or adjusted the windshield wipers to make better contact with window? Seems there are always stretches of wiper missing the window completely. Got behind a deicer truck yesterday in Arkansas and the MH is a mess.

bigdaddy5120 01-11-2015 07:37 AM

Anybody got a mud guard on the back of the challenger , if so could you post a picture. I am thinking on adding one.

Thanks
Bigdaddy51200

ctpres 01-11-2015 07:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2378783)
Anybody got a mud guard on the back of the challenger , if so could you post a picture. I am thinking on adding one.

Thanks
Bigdaddy51200

x2 on mud, rock and splash guard. Have not done so far due many comments about guard seems to stir up more rocks doing more damage to toad than before installation. Not sure how we can be sure.

camato5 01-11-2015 08:01 AM

I had one on my 2014 Thor Tuscany 40EX DP , but removed it because if I drove over too steep of an incline (like a drive way etc.) it would lay flat then got crushed by the trailer hitch. I removed mine and straightened it up, but did not put it back. I did not notice if the dealer had installed it as high as it would go and may try to put it back on some day. Also mine had two reflectors (one on each side) and the exhaust pipe melted the reflector on the passenger side before I even got my new RV home. I pulled off both reflectors and someday plan on adding the stainless steel trim on it to make it look better. That is IF it does not get bent up again. They are super easy to install. if you look under your coach, (open the diesel motor access door if you have a diesel pusher) and you will see two holes drilled in the last cross member between the rear tires and rear of coach. Hang the mud guard with chain and screw type clevis. takes about 5 minutes. I can send pics if you wish. Good luck

LyonsL 01-11-2015 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2378783)
Anybody got a mud guard on the back of the challenger , if so could you post a picture. I am thinking on adding one.

Thanks
Bigdaddy51200

I installed one on my previous coach...
https://www.campingworld.com/shopping...torhomes/18601

I don't know if it helped with protecting the toad but I did notice a 2 mpg drop in highway gas mileage immediately after the install. It created a lot of extra drag.

We plan to travel much more with the new coach so I'm going to hold off for awhile before I install a mud guard.

bigdaddy5120 01-11-2015 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2378936)
I installed one on my previous coach...
Ultra Guard - 94"W x 16"H for Motorhomes - Smart Solutions 00016 - Rock Guards - Camping World

I don't know if it helped with protecting the toad but I did notice a 2 mpg drop in highway gas mileage immediately after the install. It created a lot of extra drag.

We plan to travel much more with the new coach so I'm going to hold off for awhile before I install a mud guard.

Thanks for the info, something to consider .

ctpres 01-12-2015 07:06 AM

Denver mattress problems?
 
After just over three weeks of use our Denver Weekender mattress is showing signs of serious failure. Both sides of the bed are developing indentations were we normally sleep and they don't recover during the day. It is like laying in a hammock - you can't move over - the sides are so high. And it looks like we are not the only ones having a problem. Jayco owners are reporting similar problems. Safe bet Thor wty solution will be to replace with same worthless product. Sure hope not. If you are shopping for a new mattress I can not recommend Denver Weekender.

bdickson 01-12-2015 07:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2380080)
After just over three weeks of use our Denver Weekender mattress is showing signs of serious failure. Both sides of the bed are developing indentations were we normally sleep and they don't recover during the day. It is like laying in a hammock - you can't move over - the sides are so high. And it looks like we are not the only ones having a problem. Jayco owners are reporting similar problems. Safe bet Thor wty solution will be to replace with same worthless product. Sure hope not. If you are shopping for a new mattress I can not recommend Denver Weekender.

This web site https://lci1.com/rv-weekender seems to make it clear the mattress is intended for weekend or occasional use only. I don't remember what mattress came with our new 2013 Challenger, but we drove straight from the dealer to CW and replaced it with a Euro Top Mattress, Short Queen 60" X 74" .

bigdaddy5120 01-12-2015 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2380080)
After just over three weeks of use our Denver Weekender mattress is showing signs of serious failure. Both sides of the bed are developing indentations were we normally sleep and they don't recover during the day. It is like laying in a hammock - you can't move over - the sides are so high. And it looks like we are not the only ones having a problem. Jayco owners are reporting similar problems. Safe bet Thor wty solution will be to replace with same worthless product. Sure hope not. If you are shopping for a new mattress I can not recommend Denver Weekender.

I put a 3 inch memory foam topper on mine and now it sleeps better than my tempurpedic at home.

RVredneck 01-13-2015 06:11 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Attachment 83227

There she is. Did the plant tour yesterday. Nothing short of impressive!!!

sbleiweiss 01-13-2015 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2380672)
I put a 3 inch memory foam topper on mine and now it sleeps better than my tempurpedic at home.

We have used the Denver mattress that came with the Challenger for 25,000 miles worth of travel without these problems. Not sure it is the weekender though.

LyonsL 01-13-2015 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2381310)
Attachment 83227

There she is. Did the plant tour yesterday. Nothing short of impressive!!!

Nice! What colors did you order?

LyonsL 01-13-2015 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2380672)
I put a 3 inch memory foam topper on mine and now it sleeps better than my tempurpedic at home.

We've done the same but our travels have been put on hold for this winter so I guess time will tell. We've considered buying a Sleep Number mattress in the future but haven't done a lot of research on that yet.

Rascal55 01-13-2015 11:36 AM

Excellent thread! I'm new to IRV2, and have stumbled on to this thread. I've just read the whole thread from start to finish, and there are some very good mods and suggestions. Some issues others have had I have also experienced and have noted that I came to the some of the same solutions. I will post some of our mods over time. Thanks to all for this great thread.
2013 challenger 37Kt owner and full timer from Manitoba Canada.

ctpres 01-13-2015 01:44 PM

Awning adjust
 
Finally settled into a routine and just about all set up for three months of Florida warm weather and (mostly) sunshine. First time to use awnings during heavy rain and noticed major water pooling. Read manual and found tilt adjustment very easy. Tried with awning extended and fully retracted. IMO retracted was easiest. Just push silver spring loaded button on end you want to lower and push up on tube just below the button so button slides up to the next hole. One notch good and two guaranteed to drain. I lowered front and rear ends so water drained away from door. Rain tested and happy campers. Mod list grows every day. Parking in one spot for an extended period of time puts coach furniture, lighting, HVAC and storage in a whole new light.
Really happy with our KT.

RVredneck 01-13-2015 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2381422)
Nice! What colors did you order?


Ordered the cherry pearl or whatever it is. Once you see the amount of work and scheduling and organization that goes into building these units it's really amazing .

ctpres 01-13-2015 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2381763)
Ordered the cherry pearl or whatever it is. Once you see the amount of work and scheduling and organization that goes into building these units it's really amazing .

Look in rear basement and if you see 3" heavy duty tubes between chassis and floor ask what they are for. Can also see a pair of them in space between wheels.

RVredneck 01-13-2015 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2381928)
Look in rear basement and if you see 3" heavy duty tubes between chassis and floor ask what they are for. Can also see a pair of them in space between wheels.


Do you have a pic of the tube?? Is it steel or abs??

ctpres 01-13-2015 06:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by RVredneck (Post 2381988)
Do you have a pic of the tube?? Is it steel or abs??

They are about 3x3x 1/4 thick steel. Heavy duty - I mean you should be able to put a couple tons on the floor.

ctpres 01-14-2015 06:55 AM

Couple more questions for the experts
 
RVredneck - If your frig is elevated about ten inches above floor - ask why.

There is nothing under it and only a little woodwork is necessary to create adequate return air opening. Bet a lot of DW's would be real happy if frig sat on floor. I plan on dropping ours this spring but wonder if there is a technical reason that I will regret.


Our 2015 has two hot water heater bypass systems! Why?

When you see your HWH installed look for a bypass setup at the HWH and if there is one it is redundant. We all can remove the excess plumbing and save a lot of water wasted waiting for pipes to clear out of the cold water.

Sure wish I had been there to see ours built. Tell us more. If they will let you - take LOTS of pictures. Good to know in the future what is behind panels, under sinks, where studs and wall braces are.

sbleiweiss 01-14-2015 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2381761)
Finally settled into a routine and just about all set up for three months of Florida warm weather and (mostly) sunshine. First time to use awnings during heavy rain and noticed major water pooling. Read manual and found tilt adjustment very easy. Tried with awning extended and fully retracted. IMO retracted was easiest. Just push silver spring loaded button on end you want to lower and push up on tube just below the button so button slides up to the next hole. One notch good and two guaranteed to drain. I lowered front and rear ends so water drained away from door. Rain tested and happy campers. Mod list grows every day. Parking in one spot for an extended period of time puts coach furniture, lighting, HVAC and storage in a whole new light.
Really happy with our KT.

I have been scratching my head over this awning adjust. Sounds like I may be missing something. We too have a KT. The living room couch slide is under the power awning. With the slide out I can't lower either end of the power awning without it contacting and rubbing on the top of the slide. It only really works if the slide is in, and who is going to live that way. Did you encounter this?

ctpres 01-14-2015 10:24 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2382689)
I have been scratching my head over this awning adjust. Sounds like I may be missing something. We too have a KT. The living room couch slide is under the power awning. With the slide out I can't lower either end of the power awning without it contacting and rubbing on the top of the slide. It only really works if the slide is in, and who is going to live that way. Did you encounter this?

I just lowered front end more, moved up to third notch and awning does touch topper roller with wind gusts. On second notch all seems to be good. Our awning fabric is actually attached to flat portion of roof. Can take more pictures if it will help. My observation is that the Challenger line is constantly undergoing change - usually for the better. One must give Thor some credit for trying to improve the product. In fact if memory serves Challenger is close to 25th birthday. If anybody knows for sure - maybe we should have a party.

jcullipher 01-15-2015 04:00 AM

I too, have scratched my head over this awning adjustment. I have a 2013DT, the adjustable arms look the same as yours, but even lowering one notch will put my awning fabric in contact with the slide topper. I can gain a very little, but still am concerned the rubbing could possibly cause a hole in the awning. Very poor planning on their part here. The awning itself is oriented in such a horizontal position, it is of very little use.


Jimmy

sbleiweiss 01-15-2015 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2383763)
I too, have scratched my head over this awning adjustment. I have a 2013DT, the adjustable arms look the same as yours, but even lowering one notch will put my awning fabric in contact with the slide topper. I can gain a very little, but still am concerned the rubbing could possibly cause a hole in the awning. Very poor planning on their part here. The awning itself is oriented in such a horizontal position, it is of very little use.


Jimmy

OUr 2014.5 KT sounds the same as Jimmy's. We can't adjust even one notch without touching slide topper; not just in wind gusts but constantly. Awning is completely flat (no slope at all in any direction) when not lowered. Looks ridiculous and holds any water that falls. We basically can't use it.

ctpres 01-15-2015 10:04 AM

Four corner weigh results
 
While at Alliance Coach, Wildwood, FL we had a four corner weigh and the results were not really surprising. We need to go on a diet and move things around in the basement. Numbers that follow based on: tow bar, Ready Brake & bike rack with two bikes on rear, loaded for ten month trip, 1/3 tank of gas, empty gray, empty black, 3/4 tank propane, about 1/4 tank fresh water and no passengers inside.
Street front - 3560
Curb front - 3240
Total front - 6800

Street rear - 7340
Street curb - 7800
Total rear - 15140

Total - 21940

Moving things around to balance things out shouldn't be so hard. Dropping enough weight to add two passengers and a full tank of gas may prove to be a real challenge.

ctpres 01-15-2015 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2380088)
This web site https://lci1.com/rv-weekender seems to make it clear the mattress is intended for weekend or occasional use only. " .

OK But! We didn't buy from LCI, Thor website says "The Challenger line offers some of the most creative designs and innovative floor plans available. Whether full timing for months or tailgating for the weekend."

sbleiweiss 01-16-2015 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2384035)
While at Alliance Coach, Wildwood, FL we had a four corner weigh and the results were not really surprising. We need to go on a diet and move things around in the basement. Numbers that follow based on: tow bar, Ready Brake & bike rack with two bikes on rear, loaded for ten month trip, 1/3 tank of gas, empty gray, empty black, 3/4 tank propane, about 1/4 tank fresh water and no passengers inside.
Street front - 3560
Curb front - 3240
Total front - 6800

Street rear - 7340
Street curb - 7800
Total rear - 15140

Total - 21940

Moving things around to balance things out shouldn't be so hard. Dropping enough weight to add two passengers and a full tank of gas may prove to be a real challenge.

Makes you glad we donl't have to stop at truck weigh stations, doen't it.

ctpres 01-16-2015 10:03 AM

Let's see your mod wish/to do list.
 
Here is mine:

Remote or add another switch for shade motor. Parked for longer than a few days we use front table. With table between seats it is very difficult to get at the switch twice a day.

Relocate one of the washer/dryer outlets to side of pantry for heater use. We have no plans to install a washer and dryer so the two AC circuits and breakers are being wasted.

Add one outlet to inverter for alarm clock or add a 12vdc clock.


Waterproof light in shower

Add hinge to bottom panel of couch to access available storage space under couch

Add label or colored dot to outlets on inverter

Add outlet at dine table for computer use

Cockpit thermal curtains snapped to inside of drop down bunk

Ceiling fan in bedroom

Laundry chute

Add 12v outlet both sides of dash

Move sub woofer from behind fireplace to behind TV

Hinged platform under mattress at head of bed for TV watching

Motion sensing light for entry stairs

Remote bath and kitchen power switch to wall

Add hardwired nightlight in bathroom

Sink and stovetop cover storage shelves at top of pantry or over frig when it is setting on the floor

Bug screen behind grill

Put frig on floor

Light on bottom of drop down bunk for reading at table

Exhaust for vent hood

Move bath heat vent to bottom and put drawer in space

Raise floor at entry door threshold to eliminate the BUMP

Color entry door exit handle so guests can find it

Pole with hook on end or strap on out TV door - when on jacks hard to reach to close

Wine rack in panel between drawers or oven and frig

Wall mount digital thermostat for fireplace and eventually other built-in heaters

Kitchen counter top removable plug with finger hole over trash can

There is more but that is all I can think of right now. What is on your list?

Claudia44 01-16-2015 10:24 AM

Awning Position
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2383978)
OUr 2014.5 KT sounds the same as Jimmy's. We can't adjust even one notch without touching slide topper; not just in wind gusts but constantly. Awning is completely flat (no slope at all in any direction) when not lowered. Looks ridiculous and holds any water that falls. We basically can't use it.

I have the awning in it's lowest position and it touches the slide out but no issues opening or retracting. The awning does not have any dimples from the slide out under neath. Lower your awning and enjoy!

Claudia..

RVredneck 01-17-2015 06:58 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2382107)
They are about 3x3x 1/4 thick steel. Heavy duty - I mean you should be able to put a couple tons on the floor.


They are just extra support because they couldn't get full length steel joists in because of the wheels. If anything these chassis are beefy!!!and very well built. I was very impressed with how much care went into building them for an assembly line product.
Attachment 83436

RVredneck 01-17-2015 07:02 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2382578)
RVredneck - If your frig is elevated about ten inches above floor - ask why.

There is nothing under it and only a little woodwork is necessary to create adequate return air opening. Bet a lot of DW's would be real happy if frig sat on floor. I plan on dropping ours this spring but wonder if there is a technical reason that I will regret.


Our 2015 has two hot water heater bypass systems! Why?

When you see your HWH installed look for a bypass setup at the HWH and if there is one it is redundant. We all can remove the excess plumbing and save a lot of water wasted waiting for pipes to clear out of the cold water.

Sure wish I had been there to see ours built. Tell us more. If they will let you - take LOTS of pictures. Good to know in the future what is behind panels, under sinks, where studs and wall braces are.


Unfortunately the walls were on already so I couldn't get in to see all this. I tryed to find another KT with no walls up but mine was only one in the line that close to done. I am supposed to get ALL the CAD drawings for the moho. That will be awesome
Attachment 83437

ctpres 01-17-2015 07:51 AM

Keep up with Damon Diva
 
Been following the major rebuild since day one. Thought others would be interested in this project - starts at post #277
https://https://www.irv2.com/forums/f1...139869-20.html
The trap replacement would really clean up under sink storage, eliminate air admittance valve and make winterizing a bit faster/cheaper.


Product website https://www.hepvo.com/

sbleiweiss 01-17-2015 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Claudia44 (Post 2385229)
I have the awning in it's lowest position and it touches the slide out but no issues opening or retracting. The awning does not have any dimples from the slide out under neath. Lower your awning and enjoy!

Claudia..

Yours must be different than Jimmy's and mine. I wonder how/why? Our's touch even if lowered one notch on one side. They would bend over the slide topper badly if lowered all the way.

sbleiweiss 01-17-2015 09:49 AM

[QUOTE=ctpres;2385198]Here is mine:


Laundry chute

What do you have in mind for this chute? Where would it start and end? How would you do it? Of everything on your list, this one really surprised me.

ctpres 01-17-2015 01:58 PM

[QUOTE=sbleiweiss;2386320]
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2385198)
Here is mine:
Laundry chute What do you have in mind for this chute? Where would it start and end? How would you do it? Of everything on your list, this one really surprised me.

Still trying to decide on location for drop. Easy way is to just cut out floor and use cutout as a plug. Not on top of my list due to our age. Most likely will sacrifice lower half of night stand on left/aft side of bed. Door front will become cover for chute and remaining storage . Basement will simply be a tub that slides into rails under chute. Laundry day - pull out tub and go. Not very high on priority list right now.

jcullipher 01-17-2015 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2382578)
RVredneck - If your frig is elevated about ten inches above floor - ask why.

There is nothing under it and only a little woodwork is necessary to create adequate return air opening. Bet a lot of DW's would be real happy if frig sat on floor. I plan on dropping ours this spring but wonder if there is a technical reason that I will regret.


Our 2015 has two hot water heater bypass systems! Why?

When you see your HWH installed look for a bypass setup at the HWH and if there is one it is redundant. We all can remove the excess plumbing and save a lot of water wasted waiting for pipes to clear out of the cold water.

Sure wish I had been there to see ours built. Tell us more. If they will let you - take LOTS of pictures. Good to know in the future what is behind panels, under sinks, where studs and wall braces are.


I also have a bypass on the water heater itself, but have two valves in the wet bay, marked "bypass". I have not figured out the purpose of this. Without knowing for sure about those two valves, I just disregarded them and bypassed at the water heater. I have not tried to trace down just how those in the wet bay are plumbed. I have a 2013DT



Jimmy

ctpres 01-18-2015 07:40 AM

Plumbing problem!
 
Found signs of water in shower and eventually tracked the source down to kitchen sink. I was able to recreate backup. If both sides of kitchen sink are around half full and both stoppers are removed a lot of sink drain water will backup into shower. Depending on just how level coach is I am sure it could happen with less water in sink. Just thinking about how the plumbing is set up I can't see any way to fix without bigger ID drain pipe between shower and grey tank or installing the Hepvo drain trap mentioned in post #1569. I do not like idea of using Hepvo in shower because with it installed there is no telling where a full and overflowing grey tank would show up. Since we hope to visit factory in spring - I think we will save this problem for them. Maybe by then others will report same problem and the fix will be available

ctpres 01-18-2015 07:01 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#52 After a few weeks of living in our KT finally deciding on resting place for a number of things. Sometimes like for step stool storage I need to do a little extra. Step stool stored very nicely next to trash can. Problem was, when trash can removed step stool usually fell over. Twelve inch piece of 1x2, small scrap plywood, a few screws, five minutes and done. Think I mentioned it before - I am not staining/painting anything until almost done with everything. Last coach mod woodwork ended up with different colors. Hope doing it all at same time things will be a bit more uniform.

camato5 01-19-2015 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2387250)
I also have a bypass on the water heater itself, but have two valves in the wet bay, marked "bypass". I have not figured out the purpose of this. Without knowing for sure about those two valves, I just disregarded them and bypassed at the water heater. I have not tried to trace down just how those in the wet bay are plumbed. I have a 2013DT



Jimmy

IF you have a filter on your system the by pass in the wet bay is to by pass that filter, That is the way it is in my Tuscany. One by pass in the wet bay for the filter. The water heater by pass is in the basement behind a panel.

bdickson 01-19-2015 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2387250)
I also have a bypass on the water heater itself, but have two valves in the wet bay, marked "bypass". I have not figured out the purpose of this. Without knowing for sure about those two valves, I just disregarded them and bypassed at the water heater. I have not tried to trace down just how those in the wet bay are plumbed. I have a 2013DT Jimmy

The bypass knobs in the wet bay are for the water filter.

ctpres 01-19-2015 09:39 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
3 Attachment(s)
#53 Every once in awhile I have a brainstorm and can't take time to make it right and done the first time. This is one - so let's just call it a prototype. Storing sink and stove top covers has been a problem from day one. Finally settled on sink covers on bed platform under mattress. We even leave them there during travel. Since sink used many times a day we really don't use sink covers very often so being handy is not a priority. Stove top covers are used daily and need to be handy. Parts used in rev1: two inch screw, one inch tube spacer between wall and 1x2 long enough to reach - seven or so inches long is good, plus a long round magnet. Screw goes into wall ABOVE backsplash. Magnet holds wood to bottom of convection MW and pretty much out of view when not used. DW is happy happy.

NITEHAWK 01-19-2015 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2378708)
Has anyone replaced or adjusted the windshield wipers to make better contact with window? Seems there are always stretches of wiper missing the window completely. Got behind a deicer truck yesterday in Arkansas and the MH is a mess.

I strongly recommend you buy a bottle of Turtle Wax ICE synthetic car polish and treat your windshield. I do ours every time I clean the windshield before taking off on a trip. It works great!! Put it on (even on the rubber seals--won't turn white), wipe it off after it dries, then wipe it down again after a few hours.
I used to use Rain-X but it is very smeary. Doesn't last as long or work as well as the T-W-ICE.

ctpres 01-20-2015 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2333148)
The first (bottom) inside entry step of our Challenger 37KT was lower than the door sill and it was awkward and uncomfortable when entering or exiting the coach. I pulled up the ribbed plastic floor covering, glued & screwed down two pieces of 1/2" plywood and reinstalled the floor covering. Now the step is flush with the door sill and seems more natural to walk on. I did not take a "before" photo but have attached an "after" photo.

Finally got around to doing same thing. This a MUST do for everyone. Can now walk in or out barefoot or in thin shoes with no problem, can actually sweep dirt out and since toes can now extend over front edge of step on the way out, heel stopped hitting painted step cover on the way out so no more scuffs or scratches on our pride and joy. My material list was a little different - I used two layers of 3/8 plywood with original rubber tread on top and ended up with smooth transition from rubber to aluminum threshold. One piece of 2x4 ft 3/8 cut to 10.5 inches lengthwise. Top piece was 29 inches long and left over was cut into strips and parts spaced evenly for the first layer. With the curved aluminum riser removed the threshold had no support so I stuck some scrap plywood pieces in the void for support before installing the spacers. No screws or nails needed! Glue on bottom kept spacers in place and top piece fit so snug I didn't see how anything could move. There ended up being a very narrow gap/space between the threshold and rubber mat - a bead of silicone calk and done.

edit4ever 01-20-2015 05:07 PM

pic of slides in...
 
My wife and I are just starting to figure out which floorplan may work for us as we get ready to fulltime for a year while on a book tour. Unfortunately, there aren't any Challenger 37GT models in our area right now and I would love to see a pic of the kitchen/living area with the slides in. We think we like the floorplan, but wonder if you can get in the fridge during a quick pit stop??

We'll likely hit the big RV show in Pomona in April as we won't hit the road before November... but as you all know, once you start looking at options, you want to see everything now!! :)

Also, for those of you that own a 37GT, am I correct in seeing that a hole will need to be cut in the wall if we install a washer/dryer?? It says prepped for washer/dryer... but I think that just means water supply, waster pipe and electrical outlets??

Thanks everyone - these forums are awesome!!

AJB 01-20-2015 09:57 PM

We have a '14 37GT. With the slides in you can access the left side of the refrigerator and both sides of the freezer. We just load the refrigerator with the items we know that we will want on the left side. With the slide in you probably have 8 to 10 inches between the counter and stove. If you get a vented dryer, which dries more efficiently, than yes a hole will need to be drilled thru the wall. On my unit they ran the vent into the cabinet in the bedroom and then out the exterior wall.

jcullipher 01-20-2015 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 2388929)
The bypass knobs in the wet bay are for the water filter.


Thanks to you and Camato5, a real ah-ha moment and makes perfect sense. Even though one gets 50# of manuals with these rigs, there is hardly anything relevant to electrical or plumbing. Nothing new though, thanks again.


Jimmy

camato5 01-21-2015 06:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2391169)
Thanks to you and Camato5, a real ah-ha moment and makes perfect sense. Even though one gets 50# of manuals with these rigs, there is hardly anything relevant to electrical or plumbing. Nothing new though, thanks again.


Jimmy

I hear ya jcullipher. I have one overhead cabinet full of manuals ha

TheMrB 01-21-2015 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edit4ever (Post 2390750)
My wife and I are just starting to figure out which floorplan may work for us as we get ready to fulltime for a year while on a book tour. Unfortunately, there aren't any Challenger 37GT models in our area right now and I would love to see a pic of the kitchen/living area with the slides in. We think we like the floorplan, but wonder if you can get in the fridge during a quick pit stop??

We'll likely hit the big RV show in Pomona in April as we won't hit the road before November... but as you all know, once you start looking at options, you want to see everything now!! :)

Also, for those of you that own a 37GT, am I correct in seeing that a hole will need to be cut in the wall if we install a washer/dryer?? It says prepped for washer/dryer... but I think that just means water supply, waster pipe and electrical outlets??

Thanks everyone - these forums are awesome!!

Here is a link that show a quick video of the GT with the slides in. It's still a bit hard to tell if the frig can be opened.

We are picking ours up Friday and I can then answer for sure.

https://youtu.be/8RQKQXtC52E

edit4ever 01-21-2015 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMrB (Post 2391659)
Here is a link that show a quick video of the GT with the slides in. It's still a bit hard to tell if the frig can be opened.

We are picking ours up Friday and I can then answer for sure.

https://youtu.be/8RQKQXtC52E

Awesome... thanks for the link. Hopefully you can grab a few pics once you take delivery... although, you'll have your hands full on that day!

ctpres 01-21-2015 07:16 PM

Challenger 25th birthday?
 
Challenger is or is very near 25 year production run. I can't find anything on when first one made but have found a 1992 for sale on Ebay. Does anyone know when first challenger was made?

LyonsL 01-21-2015 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2392187)
Challenger is or is very near 25 year production run. I can't find anything on when first one made but have found a 1992 for sale on Ebay. Does anyone know when first challenger was made?

The first ones I could find were built in 1991. The M-270, M-290 & the M-310.
Check this site:
1991 Damon Corporation Price, 1991 Damon Corporation Values & 1991 Damon Corporation Specs | NADAguides

ctpres 01-22-2015 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2392253)
The first ones I could find were built in 1991. The M-270, M-290 & the M-310.
Check this site:
1991 Damon Corporation Price, 1991 Damon Corporation Values & 1991 Damon Corporation Specs | NADAguides


That is probably the best we are going to get. Now we need to figure out how we can have a birthday party. Online or maybe even a real Challenger get together somewhere up north next summer. Special factory tour would be cool. I will see if I can get someone Thor interested.

LyonsL 01-22-2015 08:51 AM

Challenger Birthday Party
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2392669)
That is probably the best we are going to get. Now we need to figure out how we can have a birthday party. Online or maybe even a real Challenger get together somewhere up north next summer. Special factory tour would be cool. I will see if I can get someone Thor interested.

A Challenger get together sounds like a great idea! You can count us in! Maybe Thor would sponsor it and help with possible camping locations near the factories, etc.

Chief2600 01-22-2015 11:31 AM

Challenger owners
 
Hi everyone. Just joined the post. own a 2012 challenger 37dt bought new. floorplan is excellent. was reading some of the posts and have experienced some of the same issues. living in jersey:dance:

TheMrB 01-23-2015 07:51 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by edit4ever (Post 2391752)
Awesome... thanks for the link. Hopefully you can grab a few pics once you take delivery... although, you'll have your hands full on that day!

Here are some picture of the refrigerator with the slides in. As you can see, there is a couple of inches between the door and the counter when opening the door.

It was an interesting drive home in the dark, snow and ice with the first time driving a large MH. Didn't have any issues though, except for the drivers windshield wiper trying to jump off the windshield. While driving, the top of the wiper would go all of the way off the windshield. But while stopped at a light it worked normal.

Anyone seen anything like this.

edit4ever 01-24-2015 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMrB (Post 2394735)
Here are some picture of the refrigerator with the slides in. As you can see, there is a couple of inches between the door and the counter when opening the door.

It was an interesting drive home in the dark, snow and ice with the first time driving a large MH. Didn't have any issues though, except for the drivers windshield wiper trying to jump off the windshield. While driving, the top of the wiper would go all of the way off the windshield. But while stopped at a light it worked normal.

Anyone seen anything like this.

Thank you so much and I'm glad you made it home ok! I've wondered what that first drive would be like, but living in So Cal I won't have to worry about the snow and ice. I bet it felt good to park her.

Let us know how your first real shakedown goes! And thanks again for the pics... glad to know you can sneak into the fridge during a quick pit stop.

sbleiweiss 01-24-2015 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by edit4ever (Post 2394985)
Thank you so much and I'm glad you made it home ok! I've wondered what that first drive would be like, but living in So Cal I won't have to worry about the snow and ice. I bet it felt good to park her.

Let us know how your first real shakedown goes! And thanks again for the pics... glad to know you can sneak into the fridge during a quick pit stop.

My wipers do the same thing (2014.5 KT). I recently posted asking whether anyone had found a way to adjust them, or to replace them with better wipers, but the only response I got was to treat the windshield with something like Rain X. Someone actually recommended another product like Rain X but I don't recal its name. I sure would like better wipers.

TheMrB 01-25-2015 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2395256)
My wipers do the same thing (2014.5 KT). I recently posted asking whether anyone had found a way to adjust them, or to replace them with better wipers, but the only response I got was to treat the windshield with something like Rain X. Someone actually recommended another product like Rain X but I don't recal its name. I sure would like better wipers.

I looked at it some more and it appears the wiper arm, or the stud it goes on, is stripped. I can turn that arm a good bit by hand. The passenger side doesn't turn at all which I would think is normal.
One of my punch list items for sure.

ctpres 01-26-2015 05:28 PM

Roof SAT update
 
As Promised project update follows: Winegard Carryout G2 works as advertised. Our rooftop install is working great. We started off using Directv receiver from home. Since antenna installation default is Direct service - antenna setup was very easy. Initial loading of program and TV schedule was uneventful. Experienced some momentary signal fade as extremely heavy rains passed thru. Otherwise reception has been excellent. There are very short bursts of hunting as antenna changes from one satellite to another - but the "hunting" process was not even noticeable in the picture or audio. So far the only distraction has been 3AM antenna hunting after receiver went into sleep or standby mode as per factory default. I changed timer to eight hours as a test after Wineguard responded to my question about why it was hunting or making enough noise at night to wake me up. They said "turn off power to antenna." I did not like that solution as first time power on next day sequence is very lengthy while antenna starts satellite search from scratch. Very time consuming and noisy process if someone is sleeping late. Eight hours is maximum selection time before standby without selecting never. If eight hours doesn't work I will switch to never sleep. Twelve or even sixteen hours would be a nice option. Decided to switch to Dish service as they seem to be much more mobile or RV oriented - especially with the "pay as you go" program. Managed to find one of the few remaining VIP211K receivers and with one exception have been very happy with it. Switching antenna from Direct to Dish was a ten minute process. Remove antenna dome - change two dip switches - reinstall dome. So far the only problem has been that 211K has a fairly low HDMI output power level. Our Monoprice 2X4 hdmi splitter/switcher frequently gets stuck in a bad picture mode and picture quality is un-watchable when TV is turned on. If another TV is turned off or on picture is lost on other sets for a few seconds. These are problems we did not have with the older DTV receiver. Symptoms are pink or purple background and negative like image. Only solution so far has been to power switcher off and on and disconnect one of four connected TV's. Good feature with 211k is that it has it's own built-in OTA antenna input and tuner. Just scan for channels as you would on a TV and behold OTA channels show up on program guide and most channels display program content. Very handy - getting SAT and OTA program content on the same screen.

Vinster30 01-26-2015 09:27 PM

1 Attachment(s)
First modification to the coach. Installed two RCA to HDMI converters and one more Monoprice switcher. Built a shelf for the Dish DVR receiver and covered to resemble the speaker bar. Can now have two different programs on any of the four TVs. Can also watch one show and record another. Here is a photo of the modified entertainment center.

ctpres 01-27-2015 07:17 AM

Looks great
 
1 Attachment(s)
Vinstr30 - now what you need is a way to control sat from bedroom. Two ways I am looking at. One is the IR wireless/radio systems by Radio shack, Jensen, Startech.com and others. But since we have HDMI to every TV I am thinking about trying the IR extenders that use the CEC channel in the HDMI cable. No power required and cost about twenty bucks. One in picture came from Ebay seller "usaokeba" for $16.99 (cheaper ones avail.) and free shipping. I should have one of each type on hand for testing in a week or so.

Vinster30 01-28-2015 08:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I have the Dish 625 DVR receiver with two UHF remotes. The second tuner UHF remote can be purchased for about $40. We watch most of our camping TV outside, the remote works great.

LyonsL 02-01-2015 09:25 PM

Replace the sofa with double recliner?
 
We are considering replacing the factory sofa in our 37KT with a double recliner with a center consol. Something similar to this:

Flexsteel 1262 Theater Seating - Theater Seating

Has anyone else done this and if so do you have any recommendations?


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