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handyman1943 04-27-2015 08:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handyman1943 (Post 2532043)
I bought them on Ebay for about $12 each last December --
AP Products 013-641 10" x 2-1/4" Brown Metal Floor Register with Damper

I just checked and they are still available. Exact replacement for the ones in my Challenger -- I just moved them to a 2013 Challenger.

ctpres 04-28-2015 07:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikensallyt (Post 2531737)
Reading all the threads I haven't "fingered" out why the recall on the extinguisher Does anyone know why? tks/Mikey

As I remember it was a problem with the trigger/valve. If you stopped squeezing the trigger before the cylinder was empty and tried to do it again there was a good chance the mechanism would fail. Not good if you thought fire was out and it popped back up.

sbleiweiss 04-28-2015 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handyman1943 (Post 2532043)
I bought them on Ebay for about $12 each last December --
AP Products 013-641 10" x 2-1/4" Brown Metal Floor Register with Damper

I found mine in a local Ace Hardware Store.

sbleiweiss 04-28-2015 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2532559)
As I remember it was a problem with the trigger/valve. If you stopped squeezing the trigger before the cylinder was empty and tried to do it again there was a good chance the mechanism would fail. Not good if you thought fire was out and it popped back up.

Just got our new one. The whole process was pretty easy. New one looks jist like the old one and fits in the same holder.

bigdaddy5120 05-03-2015 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2494193)
#56 On delivery vertical rubber seals would not fully pull out on slide extension. I managed to train both front slide seals by manually pulling them out every time. After a month or two both front slides seals worked just fine, the main slide seal still wasn't right. Solution, one inch wide 3M Safety Walk. This is the same texture as the stuff used on your entry steps. Took maybe ten to fifteen minutes per side to clean surface and apply tape nice and straight. Now seal pulls out as it should every time. My finger is pointing at the new 3M tape and the seal is on the left.

Thanks for this Mod. I will give this try.

Bigdaddy51200

herbifico 05-04-2015 12:00 AM

Does the 2016 Challenger have a pure sine wave inverter?
 
Watching a video by Total Value RV from Elkhart, Indiana the narrator said that the 2016 Thor Challenger model they just got in has a "pure sine inverter". Even if he said "pro sine inverter", the Xantrex "pro sine inverter" is a pure sine wave inverter. I would truly like to know if Thor upgraded to a 1800 watt pure sine inverter from the 2015s 1800 watt Xantrex pro-XM modified sine wave inverter.

LyonsL 05-04-2015 08:33 PM

2" X 10" Brown Register with Damper
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2532635)
I found mine in a local Ace Hardware Store.

I did the same. Thanks for the tip.

LyonsL 05-04-2015 08:42 PM

Replaced Bathroom Heater Vent
 
2 Attachment(s)
I was getting too much air out of the heater vent in the bathroom so I replaced it with a dampered vent made by Winnebago.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O4B52XQ/...140_TE_3p_dp_1

It's the same size as the one installed by Thor and it uses the same screw holes.

ctpres 05-12-2015 08:50 PM

5,000 mile report
 
Bought her in Oct 2014 and didn't hit the road until mid Dec. So far only two problems that dampened our enjoyment. Numerous others to be sure but none of them really bothered us. First problem was frig circulation fan went out and was repaired in the campground within hours by frig factory service. Frig got warm but freezer was OK. Recently the passenger side wiper arm wants to rotate over 180 degrees. Not an easy fix as parts must be ordered while we wait so we decided to dodge rain and get it fixed in Elkhart next week. Set factory appointment almost two months ago and Total Value in Elkhart is taking care of a couple problems that showed up after the factory approved our list. BTW - emailed Total Value early Monday and at 8 AM Tuesday they called to wrap up details for an appointment this Thursday. Tremendous response compared to what I got from three CW's and one independent. Like "did you buy it from us" or weeks out for appointment.
Ford part of the coach has been really great (comparing it to our 32 foot 2010 Damon with Workhorse/Chevy chassis, Allison six speed and Goodyear tires.)
Ford engine does make noise when asked to work - but just cruising down the highway it is pretty quiet, much easier to talk. Even though Challenger is quite a bit heavier it has more power for hills and will hold 60 mph towing a Ford Fiesta on six percent grades if asked. Engine braking with the six speed Allison was better and I find myself using brakes more than before. MPG is BETTER and that to me is a big surprise since Challenger is heavier. Just getting her broke in and we are getting at least 1/2 mpg better. At 5,000 mile mark no noticeable use of oil! Michelin tires and 22.5 wheels are a wonder. Much smoother quiter ride and almost ZERO air loss in seven months. Goodyears needed air almost on a weekly basis and suffered from rivering which Goodyear refused to cover under wty.
37KT floor plan is proving to be very comfortable living for two and entertaining four. We have been enjoying it daily for five months now and I am now convinced we can full time in it and really enjoy life on the road. Heat distribution needs improvement - more heat up front and less in the bathroom. Dual airconditioners with separate thermostats is a good setup. When watching TV up front we only use the rear unit and at night we only use the front - makes for a very quiet and comfortable environment. The cockpit table is installed anytime we stop for more than just one night - very useful. Lighting is very good overall, just needs a light over the cockpit table and in the stairwell. Storage is more than adequate. In fact if you fill it all up, you will probably be overweight. One fault for some may be the cargo capacity limits. We had four corner weigh and do need to go on a diet. Since we carry numerous toys, lots of tools and mod material I am not surprised.
Before we hit the Rockies in about one month I hope to have our weight under control.
In summary "We Love Our KT"

bigben 05-13-2015 07:07 AM

Suzie thanks for your update. We just got back from our 1200 mile shakedown - couple of what we call "ankle biters" and 1 "really annoying" issue. None that keep us from being safe and enjoying our unit. The annoying one is the noise in the dining room slider.

Glad to see others enjoying the unit like we are also. We love our Challenger 37TB.

sbleiweiss 05-13-2015 08:23 AM

[QUOTE=ctpres;2553771]Bought her in Oct 2014 and didn't hit the road until mid Dec. So far only two problems that dampened our enjoyment. Numerous others to be sure but none of them really bothered us.

Our experience at 15,000 miles is similar; both with the 37KT and with Total Value RV. Definitely love the floor plan. Leaving today for Jersey City and then Long Island. Wish us luck with NY metro traffic.

TheMrB 05-13-2015 10:53 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Thanks for the post. We bought a GT in January and started a 6 month trip in April. So far our experience is pretty much the same. Had an issue with the furnace where water got in and caused corrosion on the control board. Not fun when the furnace doesn't work in 35 degree weather in Arizona. A1 service in Williams is great.

As for the wiper, we have the same issue on the drivers side. The taper(washer?) is split. Hoping to get it fixed in Phoenix.

ctpres 05-17-2015 07:57 AM

The Wiper problem update
 
Just wrapped up two day stay at Total Value in Elkhart for some wty work and a wash job. Big problem was wiper failure on passenger side that I previously mentioned. I was was worried they would replace with the same part that seems to be weak design. Nope we got a whole new motor and drive assembly. They also did an oil change, fixed a leaky toilet bowl seal and gave our baby a bath - LOOKS GREAT.
BTW if you need service and are near Elkhart, I recommend Total Value. Second time for us and great work both times. AND get a wash job while you are there - only two bucks a foot. Our wty appointment at Thor was moved to their new service facility in Wakarusa - headed there today and will report on that when done.

handyman1943 05-17-2015 11:57 PM

What sort of gas mileage are you getting? Ours has less than 900 miles and we just finished a 450 mile trip and only got 5.5MPG.

ctpres 05-18-2015 08:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handyman1943 (Post 2561300)
What sort of gas mileage are you getting? Ours has less than 900 miles and we just finished a 450 mile trip and only got 5.5MPG.

On flat to nearly flat land we are getting mid 7 mpg. East coast mountains ran mid 6 mpg. That is with loaded weight right at max, cruising around 60/65 mph and towing a Ford Fiesta. Will report here on mileage in about a month for the west coast mountains. 5.5 doesn't sound right to me unless you are running 70 or more

ctpres 05-18-2015 07:04 PM

Thor wty service
 
1 Attachment(s)
New Thor service center Wakarusa, IN
Day one. Arrived Sunday afternoon to find parking place totally empty. Picture is of facility from the street - no signage yet. Facility opened for live customer business today and we were first in line. Not everything moved yet so it could get a bit complex till all moving is done. For example paint shop still at old location so we will need to move coach to the old facility to get a little paint work done. Coach parking spaces based on water/electric spacing NOT painted stripes. Park on concrete side - not blacktop. Dump is in front left corner. Dump parking spot needs some more fill - if it rains it will be a bit messy. When leveling you will be better off using manual level due to slope of parking space. Auto level will probably put your front wheels off the ground and jacks at max extension. Within thirty minutes of parking a security guard stopped by and gave us a phone number to call for any problems or emergencies. They patrol the area routinely - nice touch. Shop manager met us a little before 7AM and outlined the way things would work each day. Assigned tech met us at coach 7AM sharp to discuss each item on the list and within 15 minutes Larry had coach in service bay and was hard at work doing everything on the list that did not need parts to be ordered. When finished for the day he will return coach to parking space and plug it in to electric and lock the door with keys inside. So be sure you have a door key with you if you leave. Very interesting that he noticed a trim ring for windshield was missing and ordered it. Customer lounge (entrance at front of building) is a bit short on reading material right now, has small 20" TV but 40 inch should be there any day. Coffee and vending machines in the break room. Day one results: some of the ordered parts already arrived and were installed - fireplace and video switcher replaced, windshield trim ring installed, loose ladder mounts secured, entry door strut replaced and rearview mirror anti vibration clips installed. Materials ordered for the rest of work expected in a day or two. One problem was with slide arm shuddering on extension and retraction. No known fix for problem so Carefree (awning mfg) is sending rep over to look at it. Parts in hours or a few days and experts on call. I would say it was worth the trip to Elkhart for our wty work. More tomorrow. BTW Cooks Pizza in Wakarusa is worth the trip, great custom made to order large pizza and two drinks for under $20. Sorry no beer.

happycamperj 05-19-2015 04:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2561539)
On flat to nearly flat land we are getting mid 7 mpg. East coast mountains ran mid 6 mpg. That is with loaded weight right at max, cruising around 60/65 mph and towing a Ford Fiesta. Will report here on mileage in about a month for the west coast mountains. 5.5 doesn't sound right to me unless you are running 70 or more

I agree completely. We averaged mid 7 driving from Oregon to Tennessee last year. Tried to keep it between 65-70 also.I got 6 in "local" driving. We have a 2014.5 Challenger 37gt, with around 7,000 miles on it, pulling a Honda CR-V. Hopefully that 5.5 will improve after you get a few more miles on yours.

bdickson 05-19-2015 04:40 PM

Our 2013 37GT pulling a CR-V gets 7 to 7.5 without generator, 6.5 to 7 with genny running.

ctpres 05-19-2015 05:38 PM

Day 2 Thor Wakarusa service center
 
Work completed today: Door close/open step switch replaced (frequently failed with steps open), LED light strip in rear awning replaced (one three light segment out), convection microwave replaced (only had one glass panel in door), two full length trim pieces replaced on main slide (were warping and could not be held in place with pin nails or staples), one drawer travel lock on slide mechanism was replaced and one dash a'cond vent with broken louvers was replaced. Carefree awning rep showed up and determined awning shudder being caused by bad strut - will return with replacement. All work so far has been completed in a professional manner - tech even laid out cardboard panels on floor in work areas to protect floors.

handyman1943 05-19-2015 06:27 PM

gas mileage
 
In reading the owner's manual, I found a section that suggests a procedure to retrain the engine and transmission after the battery has been disconnected. Will try that before our next trip this weekend and hopefully mileage will improve. Mostly flat land and towing our Vue.

M72561 05-19-2015 07:15 PM

battery issues
 
We have owned a 2014 37KT for 2 years and get away in it as often as we can.We have always had issues with the chassis battery dying when we left it parked for 2 weeks or longer. We have replaced the battery under warranty as well as the alternator but the problem persists.I have a trickle charger I keep on it now when parked but it has died twice. I did have a banks power pack system installed shortly after I bought it and wonder if that could be the issue.I always cut off the house batteries when storing and they have never seemed to have a problem until today.The battery switch in the stairwell is not clicking when I switch it and I can't AUX start with the batteries or turn on the generator.I called Thor and they thought a 50,or 100 amp breaker must be tripped with the 100 amp being up front which I will manually have to move the RV about 2' backwards so I can open the front up. I have had an RV carport built and it just barely fits in. Anyone with similar battery issues

ctpres 05-20-2015 06:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M72561 (Post 2563962)
Anyone with similar battery issues

We had problem with chassis battery discharging when parked for a while AND house batteries in store mod. Finally figured out that dash radio had two power leads, one direct to battery and the other to ignition on 12v source. I guess Thor wired both to battery just so radio could be used when parked. Problem with that is radio has very high current drain even when off - just feel front of it. A separate switch on radio ignition lead would solve that.

LyonsL 05-20-2015 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M72561 (Post 2563962)
I always cut off the house batteries when storing and they have never seemed to have a problem until today.The battery switch in the stairwell is not clicking when I switch it and I can't AUX start with the batteries or turn on the generator. Anyone with similar battery issues

All of the problems listed above occur when the main breaker for the coach batteries trips OR the coach batteries go dead. I keep my coach plugged in to shore power now when it's stored but previously I would remove the coach batteries and keep them indoors and trickle charged when storing the coach for long periods.

ctpres 05-20-2015 07:39 PM

Day 3 Thor Wakarusa service center
 
Day 3 Thor Wakarusa Service center
Work completed today: Main slide trim removed again and reinstalled - tech was not happy with results first time, shower: basin standing water - door sag - panel to wall separation and minor leak resolved Larry also put a block behind front edge of shower basin - at the service panel to stabilize it and keep it from being moved inward when feet hit it , added large diameter washer to frig locking head to better secure both doors ( original size head could let one door open under way ). I will say our tech does not seem to be under any pressure at all (from mgt/boss) to get it done and hurry on to the next one. I take that as a very positive sign.
Unrelated to service but maybe interesting. We toured Wakarusa plant today and got to see a couple Challengers in various stages of completion. Amazing what minor and to me major changes have been made in less than a year. Some so simple like why didn't I think of that? Example - house battery rack has room for four batteries but only two provided and they were mounted inboard. 2016's batteries mounted outboard ie. right next to door - so much easier to check water! If cables are long enough mine will be moved next time I check battery water levels. Stainless sinks, new and better looking kitchen sink faucet, KT - main TV down almost to counter top level and storage cabinets with glass in doors above. No more ugly weird hole below TV, painful ledge at entry door threshold is gone and that step if now flat. One KT I saw on line has two media room style recliners instead of couch. I know there are more changes but we really did not have time to poke around. If you are ever near Elkhart stop by Wakarusa plant for a tour. Currently available - no apt necessary - Mon Tue or Wed - and start at 3:45PM, but be ten or so minutes early to fill out some paperwork. Eye protection provided, no open toe shoes and no pictures allowed. Note: if ordering a Challenger they can keep you up-to-date on build progress and even schedule a visit so you can see your baby being built.


Thor plant 850
606 Nelson's Parkway
Wakarusa, Indiana 46573
(574) 266-1111 for more info.

ctpres 05-20-2015 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by M72561 (Post 2563962)
The battery switch in the stairwell is not clicking when I switch it

Have not tested it yet but suspect current BCC is same as it was with Damon products. As I remember it the store relay needs 12v or a minimum of something like 10.6v to operate and that comes from chassis battery. So if chassis bat is below 10.6 the relay can not operate. With house batteries in store mode the only solution was to get chassis bat over 10.6 by connecting to a charger or jumping from a good bat.

sbleiweiss 05-21-2015 02:37 PM

Several months ago someone in this group posted instructions on how to remount the fireplace a little farther out to keep it from overheating. Can you repeat the information, and tell us if the fix has solved the problem? Thanks.

ctpres 05-21-2015 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2566607)
Several months ago someone in this group posted instructions on how to remount the fireplace a little farther out to keep it from overheating. Can you repeat the information, and tell us if the fix has solved the problem? Thanks.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2313071
Never had thermal shutdown after mod (post #1316) in the link above.

ctpres 05-21-2015 07:41 PM

Day 4 Thor Wakarusa service center
 
Good and bad day. Gas cap door hitting rear cap and chipping paint - fixed. Propane leak test OK, water system pressure test OK, minor flaw in soft ceiling fabric repaired, unsuccessful previous repair to floor fixed. Previous dealer caulk job at front cap to roof radius cleaned up and re-caulked - looks much better. Tech took coach to another location for exterior water leak testing in a rain bay, everything from floor up OK but five basement compartments leaked so we don't get to leave as soon as I hoped like before Memorial day traffic around Chicago - that is bad. Meeting in AM tomorrow to discuss a couple items that were not fixed and why. That is also bad.

LyonsL 05-21-2015 08:03 PM

1 Attachment(s)
[QUOTE=ctpres;2565435]Day 3
Unrelated to service but maybe interesting. We toured Wakarusa plant today and got to see a couple Challengers in various stages of completion. Amazing what minor and to me major changes have been made in less than a year. Some so simple like why didn't I think of that? ...KT - main TV down almost to counter top level and storage cabinets with glass in doors above. No more ugly weird hole below TV.

ctpres, thank you for all of your fixes, mods and updates. They've been a big help to me and I greatly appreciate them.

I installed a DVR for our TV's in the "ugly weird hole below the TV" that you mentioned. My DW was not happy with the appearance of "the hole" so she hung a piece of black fabric on the inside (attached with velcro). Now we still have easy access but it looks very nice now!

LyonsL 05-21-2015 08:12 PM

Changed location of night shade switch
 
1 Attachment(s)
The night shade switch in our 2015 Challenger 37KT was located on the left side of the steering wheel and was difficult to reach after parking and setting up the coach. I removed the dash cover and was able to move the switch to the right side of the steering wheel after unwrapping two sections of wiring harness, extending three wires and rerouting the wires. Now the night shade switch is easier to reach while driving and when the coach is parked.

sbleiweiss 05-22-2015 08:07 AM

I installed a DVR for our TV's in the "ugly weird hole below the TV" that you mentioned. My DW was not happy with the appearance of "the hole" so she hung a piece of black fabric on the inside (attached with velcro). Now we still have easy access but it looks very nice now![/QUOTE]

Total Value RV installed a door over that ugly hole. It is long and horizontal of course, but otherwise matches all the doors and woodwork in the MH.

sbleiweiss 05-22-2015 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2566955)
Good and bad day. Gas cap door hitting rear cap and chipping paint - fixed. Propane leak test OK, water system pressure test OK, minor flaw in soft ceiling fabric repaired, unsuccessful previous repair to floor fixed. Previous dealer caulk job at front cap to roof radius cleaned up and re-caulked - looks much better. Tech took coach to another location for exterior water leak testing in a rain bay, everything from floor up OK but five basement compartments leaked so we don't get to leave as soon as I hoped like before Memorial day traffic around Chicago - that is bad. Meeting in AM tomorrow to discuss a couple items that were not fixed and why. That is also bad.

Let us know where around Chicago and when you expect to be. We will be returning from our New York trip on the Wednesday after Memorial Day. You will probably be long gone by then, but if not we would love to meet up.

ctpres 05-22-2015 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2566999)
. I removed the dash cover and was able to move the switch to the right side of the steering wheel

THAT is a good idea. I looked at adding a switch in parallel in open space next to mirror controls but I think your solution may be a lot easier.
Question - the usb charging station in picture is that factory or a DIY?

ctpres 05-22-2015 04:09 PM

Day 5 Thor Wakarusa service center
 
Should have been on the road today but routine end of service water leak test yesterday afternoon revealed five leaking bay doors. New gaskets on all five, lubed clicky/noisey leveling system feet and in process found one VERY loose foot and Larry tightned it up. Notes to self and others: check for loose pads/feet once in awhile. Almost fifty thousand miles of Lippert leveling system use and I never knew they could come loose. Also the rain bay leak test system recycles water! That means if you show up with a really shinney and clean coach it probably won't look as good after the test. Reviewed all items submitted for repair and action taken. Happy with all repairs - but several items had note " working as designed" ie. if built to design spec's and it worked that way no action was taken. In all cases but one I was willing to accept that answer.
In all, our wty service visit went well and Larry (our tech) did a great job. We will be happy to continue recommending Thor support, the Challenger line and our KT floor plan to others. Now if we can just get "around" Chicago tomorrow without incident or agrivation - I will be a Happy Camper again.

ctpres 05-22-2015 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2567460)
Let us know where around Chicago and when you expect to be. We will be returning from our New York trip on the Wednesday after Memorial Day. You will probably be long gone by then, but if not we would love to meet up.

Sorry but by Wed. we should be in SD on our way to Sequim, WA for the summer. If anyone will be in or near Sequim this summer - let me know.

LyonsL 05-23-2015 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2567478)
THAT is a good idea. I looked at adding a switch in parallel in open space next to mirror controls but I think your solution may be a lot easier.
Question - the usb charging station in picture is that factory or a DIY?

That is a factory installed USB charging port. There are 4 more inside a cabinet in the entertainment center and 4 more in the bedroom.

The photo does not show it but there is also an HDMI port above the shown USB port.

LyonsL 05-23-2015 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2567449)
Total Value RV installed a door over that ugly hole. It is long and horizontal of course, but otherwise matches all the doors and woodwork in the MH.

Nice touch! Is it hinged at the top or the bottom?

sbleiweiss 05-24-2015 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2568934)
Nice touch! Is it hinged at the top or the bottom?

It's hinged at the bottom with a handle (same as throughout MH) centered and horizontal at the top.

ctpres 05-29-2015 10:21 AM

Factory service update
 
So far everything that got fixed or improved has been satisfactory. EXCEPT: 1. The door open sense switch was replaced and wired EXACTLY like it was in the factory. Wrong thing to do. When it failed the first time I just assumed it was the switch and made a temp repair with a new switch. Within hours of leaving with the new factory installed switch we stopped for gas and steps would not close!!!! Tech note - steps close on open circuit and extend on an short circuit. If your steps won't close - try cutting one of the two step switch wires. If the steps won't extend try cutting both wires and shorting ends together. Now why it failed - wires from switch were run across door frame and UNDER door trim. Pressure squeezed insulation resulting in bare wire and allowed metal trim to short the pair. When switch removed insulation damage could not be seen without close examination. If you door switch wires go under the trim, I highly recommend that the wires be routed over the trim or some physical protection be provided for the wires. As a temp repair all I had to do was loosen the trim and put electrical tape on the wires. When we get to our summer location I will drill a small channel between the trim and door frame.
2. The missing window trim that got installed came out in one corner on the second day. Let me tell you that was exciting. Flopping in the wind it sounded like a tire shredding. Temp fix was to remove it. Will find an auto glass shop and get to reinstalled. Suspect there is some kind of adhesive that should have been used.

sbleiweiss 05-30-2015 08:47 AM

You are the man Chuck! Its a good thing you are so handy. Best of luck on the rest of the cross country trip. Sorry we couldn't meet up in the Midwest this time.

ctpres 05-30-2015 09:52 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
[ moderator edit ]
Once in a while we have no choice but to accept a spot with only thirty amps service. Usually that is not a problem. Our old coach was 30 and we had no problem heating with electric and knew just how many devices we could use at the same time. Last two mornings we popped the park 30 amp breaker "living normally." I was ready to head for the office to report a weak breaker when I decided to think about it some more. Finally figured it out. Electric water heater equals one space heater. According to spec's the heating element is 1,400 watts. Solution - just turn off electric water heater and go back to living normally.

sbleiweiss 05-31-2015 07:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2579285)
[ moderator edit ]
Once in a while we have no choice but to accept a spot with only thirty amps service. Usually that is not a problem. Our old coach was 30 and we had no problem heating with electric and knew just how many devices we could use at the same time. Last two mornings we popped the park 30 amp breaker "living normally." I was ready to head for the office to report a weak breaker when I decided to think about it some more. Finally figured it out. Electric water heater equals one space heater. According to spec's the heating element is 1,400 watts. Solution - just turn off electric water heater and go back to living normally.

Biggest issue you overlooked is AC. Your scenario works okay in cold or moderate weather; but not in hot. Give me 50 amp anyday.

ctpres 06-02-2015 08:58 AM

Customer not always right!
 
1 Attachment(s)
In response to customers comments about it being hard to reach the first step of the ladder - Thor made it longer so the first step is closer to the ground. Guess what - it was right the first time. Next time you walk by rear end look at how low the bottom step is - it extends well below the hitch receiver. While at the factory another Challenger was in with ladder broken off at the bottom. Happened going into a gas station. We talked about possible fixes and the best I could think of at the time was to add a hinge. Only found one that looked like it would work.
206198ALT - RV Ladder Hinge 1 PAIR - Price: $13.95 - Factory RV Surplus - 1611 W Bristol St, Elkhart, IN 46514 (800) 325-1461 (574) 262-3327
My "DO" list just got longer

ajfarmer 06-02-2015 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2584154)
In response to customers comments about it being hard to reach the first step of the ladder - Thor made it longer so the first step is closer to the ground. Guess what - it was right the first time. Next time you walk by rear end look at how low the bottom step is - it extends well below the hitch receiver. While at the factory another Challenger was in with ladder broken off at the bottom. Happened going into a gas station.

My ladder bottom is already scraped flat due to two gas station exits that had more of a dip than I realized. When I hear it scrape, I consider it an early warning before I strike the hitch, or worse, the rear cap trim. :whistling:

camato5 06-03-2015 06:44 AM

FYI all, they make a steel wheel that pins to your hitch that acts as a "tail dragger" to keep the hitch off the road or driveway. They are sold at Camping World and other RV stores. I use mine all the time to get across a high water bridge we built on my property. Its a little steep climb but that wheel takes all the abuse and saves my hitch and chrome tailpipe

sbleiweiss 06-03-2015 08:18 AM

Yes, I damaged the bottom of mine when backing into a site in Mesa that had the sites raised so stormwater could run down the street. I don't think it would have hit except I thought I would be smart and take advantage of the fact that the site (same raised lip) accross the way was empty. I pulled into it; then backed across street. Combinations of lips did me in. Haven't had the problem in a gas station (knocking on wood).

ctpres 06-03-2015 05:48 PM

Drive with open frameless windows?
 
Have not seen anything in Thor printed material re: do or don't and only a few forum comments about not doing it for fear of damage. So I decided to go for it and drive with them open while we are still under wty. Started in windy MT and have over 500 miles of use so far with no problem or hint of problems. We will use them from now on whenever we want air flow and save the a'cond for hotter days. We do open them all the way.

sbleiweiss 06-04-2015 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2586470)
Have not seen anything in Thor printed material re: do or don't and only a few forum comments about not doing it for fear of damage. So I decided to go for it and drive with them open while we are still under wty. Started in windy MT and have over 500 miles of use so far with no problem or hint of problems. We will use them from now on whenever we want air flow and save the a'cond for hotter days. We do open them all the way.

We often leave a BR window open for the cats when we are underway on a hot day. Have not had any problem.

tedgard01 06-06-2015 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2584154)
In response to customers comments about it being hard to reach the first step of the ladder - Thor made it longer so the first step is closer to the ground. Guess what - it was right the first time. Next time you walk by rear end look at how low the bottom step is - it extends well below the hitch receiver. While at the factory another Challenger was in with ladder broken off at the bottom. Happened going into a gas station. We talked about possible fixes and the best I could think of at the time was to add a hinge. Only found one that looked like it would work.
206198ALT - RV Ladder Hinge 1 PAIR - Price: $13.95 - Factory RV Surplus - 1611 W Bristol St, Elkhart, IN 46514 (800) 325-1461 (574) 262-3327
My "DO" list just got longer


Did you order these? Are they made of metal?


Ted

tedgard01 06-06-2015 06:58 AM

Someone asked about the passenger side windshield wiper flipping over to the driver side. It was some time ago, and I could not find the post.

Regardless, I had this happen as well. I just wanted to report that after this was "fixed" under warranty when on a trip at Albuquerque, NM, it happened again.

I took it in to be repaired this time and they said it is because of the mechanism within the engine compartment versus the outside wiper arm or those related parts.

Thor has stepped up and will replace the entire wiper mechanism this time, even though it is out of warranty by a couple of months.


Ted

ctpres 06-06-2015 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2590097)
Did you order these? Are they made of metal?


Ted

Have not ordered yet. No address long enough till we get to Sequim, WA for the summer. Shopping list is REALLY long and hinges are on the it.

ctpres 06-06-2015 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2590113)
Someone asked about the passenger side windshield wiper flipping over to the driver side. It was some time ago, and I could not find the post.

Regardless, I had this happen as well. I just wanted to report that after this was "fixed" under warranty when on a trip at Albuquerque, NM, it happened again.

I took it in to be repaired this time and they said it is because of the mechanism within the engine compartment versus the outside wiper arm or those related parts.

Thor has stepped up and will replace the entire wiper mechanism this time, even though it is out of warranty by a couple of months.


Ted

You are not the first to report the same problem and second failure. Seems to me windshield wiper failures like this could end up in a recall! Time will tell

tedgard01 06-06-2015 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2590312)
You are not the first to report the same problem and second failure. Seems to me windshield wiper failures like this could end up in a recall! Time will tell


Yes. It is obvious thar they are totally under engender for the windshield, especially in wind and "driving" (pun intended) rain.


Ted

tedgard01 06-07-2015 03:33 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Engender.... WHAT, no one commented on that..... lol


Ted

ctpres 06-11-2015 03:44 PM

Windshield sun screen hint
 
Screen has built in stop to prevent lowering past a set point while in motion. If driving early or late in the day with low sun angles, a couple inches lower may be needed. While stopped with engine off lower shade to desired position and head on down the road without sun in your eyes.

tedgard01 06-12-2015 04:23 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2598970)
Screen has built in stop to prevent lowering past a set point while in motion. If driving early or late in the day with low sun angles, a couple inches lower may be needed. While stopped with engine off lower shade to desired position and head on down the road without sun in your eyes.


Don't let it get too low, I believe that there may be some states with legal requirements that could be impacted if it is blocking too much of the windshield.... At least I was told that....

I have glasses, so normal sunglasses just don't work, but I bought some of those sunglasses that wrap around your regular glasses for these times. That works well for me, in combination with the lowered shade.


Ted

handyman1943 06-12-2015 11:59 PM

I do like the sun shade bu still rely on my cap with a bill on it. I tend to get migraines when exposed to too much light and I can tilt the cap to the front or to the side to block the sun wherever it is.

ctpres 06-13-2015 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handyman1943 (Post 2601136)
I do like the sun shade bu still rely on my cap with a bill on it. I tend to get migraines when exposed to too much light and I can tilt the cap to the front or to the side to block the sun wherever it is.

Agree - I also wear duck bill cap when driving, but those of us with skin cancer must take EVERY action possible to stay out of sun.

ctpres 06-16-2015 07:49 PM

A Mod just waiting to happen
 
Was enjoying our super quiet RV park with the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. On couch looking up and saw holes at both ends of roller shade recess. Gee what can I do with those when lightning struck! Tissue box, grabbed one and sure enough it is just the right size to fit in the hole. All I need to do is fab a hinged or removeable shelf with dispenser sized hole to hold tissue box upside down in the hole. OK guys go for it, It's on my list.

tedgard01 06-16-2015 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2606522)
Was enjoying our super quiet RV park with the sound of ocean waves breaking on the beach. On couch looking up and saw holes at both ends of roller shade recess. Gee what can I do with those when lightning struck! Tissue box, grabbed one and sure enough it is just the right size to fit in the hole. All I need to do is fab a hinged or removeable shelf with dispenser sized hole to hold tissue box upside down in the hole. OK guys go for it, It's on my list.


Pic please.


Ted

ctpres 06-18-2015 11:20 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2606753)
Pic please.


Ted

One of my RV-n PITA's is "set-a-bouts" the things we get out of storage and put back every time we hit the road. I am always happy when I can get rid of one more. The space is deep enough for a full size box.

tedgard01 06-18-2015 10:08 PM

Thanks!


Ted

sbleiweiss 06-19-2015 08:19 PM

Who was it that had the wipers screw up recently. Just happened to us too. I would like to compare notes, especially about fix, and Thor warranty.

tedgard01 06-19-2015 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2590113)
Someone asked about the passenger side windshield wiper flipping over to the driver side. It was some time ago, and I could not find the post.

Regardless, I had this happen as well. I just wanted to report that after this was "fixed" under warranty when on a trip at Albuquerque, NM, it happened again.

I took it in to be repaired this time and they said it is because of the mechanism within the engine compartment versus the outside wiper arm or those related parts.

Thor has stepped up and will replace the entire wiper mechanism this time, even though it is out of warranty by a couple of months.


Ted


Here was my post... Is that what you wanted.


Ted

ctpres 06-20-2015 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2611158)
Who was it that had the wipers screw up recently. Just happened to us too. I would like to compare notes, especially about fix, and Thor warranty.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2520875

Had it fixed (invoice says R/R wiper motor) at Total Value in Elkhart, IN under wty. Almost zero rain since so no way to know if really fixed or just another bad part waiting to fail.

sbleiweiss 06-21-2015 09:05 AM

Thanks Ted (and Ken). Mine is out of warranty too. I am waiting to hear back from Thor about whether they will fix it for me. Ted, has your fix held up to a strong rain storm since the fix? Was it also the "RR motor" that they replaced?

sbleiweiss 06-21-2015 09:16 AM

Sorry, meant to say Chuck, not Ken. Happy Fathers Day!

sbleiweiss 06-21-2015 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2590312)
You are not the first to report the same problem and second failure. Seems to me windshield wiper failures like this could end up in a recall! Time will tell

Have you guys reported it to the NTSB? Does the NTSB even deal with RVs? I would think so. Sure sounds like recall material to me.

ctpres 06-21-2015 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2613138)
Have you guys reported it to the NTSB? Does the NTSB even deal with RVs? I would think so. Sure sounds like recall material to me.

Yes RV's are covered.
I did think about reporting to NTSB. Decided not to unless I hear Thor is not taking care of similar in and out of wty wiper problems. Considering number of RV's on the road by Thor, their recall's seem to be much lower than other major mfg's. If the small sample of IRV2 forum member failures and Thor's response is representative of all owners - then I think they are on top of the problem. Time will tell.

ctpres 06-21-2015 12:57 PM

Home | National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2613222)
I did think about reporting to NTSB.

OPS think that should be NHTSA. Filing an individual report requires full name and personal information which can be supplied to mfg. Not sure how much detail Thor keeps on owners but I would think long and hard about filing if I still had any wty left.

mtm737 06-26-2015 10:36 AM

Road Logic
 
Just got our 2013 GT back from CW, nothing major, but lo and behold, now the night shades will not lower past the "road position" and the slides won't extend! Does anyone know if there's a road logic? I have depowered the coach, and held my mouth funny, all to no joy. Any thoughts? Thanks

tedgard01 06-27-2015 09:46 AM

Is your key in the on position?


Ted

mtm737 06-28-2015 08:56 AM

No, the key is off. I've depowered the coach, disconnected the battery terminals, put the drivers seat all the way forward. I'm confused. The coach just came back from CW cuz the dash fans weren't working. Now, If I could get CW to return my phone calls.

ctpres 06-28-2015 06:08 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#58 Since delivery the center bottom of the shower base - where it meets the floor would end up pushed in by feet bumping it, leaving a weird looking curve where it meets the floor. Solution: remove service port/cover in front - pull bottom edge of base back into position. Position small block of wood on floor - touching inside edge of base and screw to floor.

tedgard01 06-28-2015 06:09 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by mtm737 (Post 2624300)
No, the key is off. I've depowered the coach, disconnected the battery terminals, put the drivers seat all the way forward. I'm confused. The coach just came back from CW cuz the dash fans weren't working. Now, If I could get CW to return my phone calls.


Is it possible that your batteries are low? I had something like this happen, I ran the generator and the engine far a couple of hours and everything started working correctly again...

Also, one time I could not get the house batteries to charge, or keep their charge. The engine would start and so forth, but I was having real issues on the house side. Like I would get a low battery fault on the inverter.

I found out that there is a fuse in the house battery bay that had to be reset. It will be close to the house batteries, and in fact, it will have the battery cable connected to it and then the main wire coming out the other side going to the house.

It is a high amp fuse that flips when you have a significant voltage draw that may cause some damage. It may be hard to see, but if you follow the battery cable it will most likely be attached to the main frame of the chassis. Mine is attached on the inside of the frame, on the side of the frame that is under the coach, but it is easily reached. If looking in the bay, it is on the right side of the house batteries. The fuse looks like a small flat box, maybe an 1 1/2" or 2" square, but only about 1/2" thick.

On the bottom edge of the fuse is a toggle bar that you simply push up on it to reset the fuse. The switch is a flat piece that is almost the length of the box. I have to reach in, behind the chassis frame, feel for the fuse box connected to the battery cable, and then feel for the toggle bar and push up on it. Again, I can not see the fuse, I have to reach in and feel for it.

Obviously, you should turn off the generator and the motor of your coach before doing this. I don't think you can get shocked, but I don't really know that for sure, I can at least tell you that I did not get shocked when I did this. I did not have to disconnect the batteries or anything. Anyway, please be careful.

I hope that helps.


Ted

sbleiweiss 06-29-2015 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mtm737 (Post 2624300)
No, the key is off. I've depowered the coach, disconnected the battery terminals, put the drivers seat all the way forward. I'm confused. The coach just came back from CW cuz the dash fans weren't working. Now, If I could get CW to return my phone calls.

If Ted's fuse idea doesn't solve the problem I would call Thor's technical customer service. they have been good about leading me to the source of problems like this (not this exact problem thankfully).

tedgard01 06-29-2015 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2625057)
#58 Since delivery the center bottom of the shower base - where it meets the floor would end up pushed in by feet bumping it, leaving a weird looking curve where it meets the floor. Solution: remove service port/cover in front - pull bottom edge of base back into position. Position small block of wood on floor - touching inside edge of base and screw to floor.


Thanks for sharing. Mine don't seem to be causing an issue, but who knows what the future holds.


Ted

ctpres 06-29-2015 06:21 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
3 Attachment(s)
#59 Pulled this item off old coach before trading her in. A'cond drip down side is always a problem. Just got our baby all cleaned up and shined only to see the A'cond pumping a steady flow of water down the side. Think narrow strip of awning from the roller tube. Picture one shows the piece inserted into street side awning track. Picture two attempts to show how flap stands out and away from side of coach. Picture three shows one end of my invention. Level coach with street side just a little lower. Install drip guard and slide it along awning track to spot where water is running down the side and done. If anyone replaces their awning - the old one will provide enough for several RV's. I had this one made at a flea market in RGV.

ctpres 06-30-2015 07:21 PM

Happy Birthday Challenger
 
I got no response from Thor on my question about what year the first Challenger was introduced. So I am making our Challenger's family birthday "July." For the whole month we will celebrate twenty five years of continuous production and improvements. We will give all guests, or anyone who even says that's a nice looking coach, the complete tour. It's really enjoyable showing off our baby so we will have lots of fun. Wonder how many I can sell in a month?

Rascal55 07-01-2015 09:17 PM

Battery Isolater/Control module
At the front of the engine compartment on the drivers side is a module with fuses and solenoids. The chassis battery and house batteries are connected to this unit. I feel this maybe the battery isolater. It is chattering a lot, it seems the solenoid is kicking in and out rapidly. We are not having any electrical issues inside the coach. It does not do this all day long, but enough to be of concern. I feel it is a problem on the circuit board and not the solenoids themselves. Any similar experiences or thoughts out there?

ctpres 07-01-2015 09:50 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
4 Attachment(s)
#60 Decided to try my hand at making a dash cover. Turned out to be pretty easy four hour and $20 project.
Step 1. Cut a template for one of the windshield col. covers see results in pic. one. Step 2. Run a tape measure all the way across dash from equal points at both ends and tape it in place for a measuring reference point. See pic. two. Step 3. Every six inches measure distance from edge of tape measure to windshield. Use distance in center and draw a line on the back side of the carpet. Then transfer six inch measurements to line and connect the points. See pic. three. Then cut. Since carpet was so thin I was able to use a good pair of scissors. Step 4. Remove dash pod and test fit - if trimming is necessary hold carpet on place with two or three screws in holes from dash pod. Pic four shows results of some minor trimming. Only thing left to do is cut along sides of desk. I did not cut across - left carpet over desk top. If we want to use desk we just flip the flap forward. I considered removing desk and using the housing to trim the edges. Just decided to protect everything from the sun. Will post a couple more pictures tomorrow with more detail.

Rascal55 07-02-2015 08:07 AM

Battery Isolator Module
 
2 Attachment(s)
Here are two pictures of the module in question.

ctpres 07-02-2015 10:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rascal55 (Post 2629879)
Battery Isolater/Control module
At the front of the engine compartment on the drivers side is a module with fuses and solenoids. The chassis battery and house batteries are connected to this unit. I feel this maybe the battery isolater. It is chattering a lot, it seems the solenoid is kicking in and out rapidly. We are not having any electrical issues inside the coach. It does not do this all day long, but enough to be of concern. I feel it is a problem on the circuit board and not the solenoids themselves. Any similar experiences or thoughts out there?

PM Me with email and I will send you 12 page BCC service manual.

ctpres 07-02-2015 03:20 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
3 Attachment(s)
#60 Cont. Pic one shows better detail after final trim. Pic two shows results of cut to accommodate the workstation with flap folded back. Three shows top extended and surplus carpet folded and tucked under edge of desk top. When done ie. to late, I realized desk cut did NOT need to be all the way to the end. If you do this I would stop cut at edge of desk when extended and test. BTW don't cut desk opening until mat is finished and secured by the instrument pod screws. I think stopping the cut earlier will look much better. Pic three also shows visual results of cut going to far.
I am still thinking about how to finish the cut edge on passenger side. I experimented with a scrap - folded end back under and glued with hot glue gun - that looks pretty good. I am going to leave it as is for a while to see if carpet will hang naturally and follow curved surface of dash. Nothing has been added to hold carpet in place other than the pod screws and good fit around the col. covers. It does not move around.

handyman1943 07-02-2015 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rascal55 (Post 2630281)
Here are two pictures of the module in question.

I recently replaced the lower solenoid because it had failed and my chassis battery was very low on charge even though I was plugged in. It was the lower of the two solenoids. I will assume that you are plugged in to a land line. If you unplug and the chattering stops, it probably means that the solenoid is about ready to die. Cost around $25 and was a relatively easy replacement.
Also, if the solenoid is very warm and chattering, that probably means that it is about read to quit on you. Good luck!

ctpres 07-03-2015 05:16 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#61 Found these big S hooks in a dollar store and got the idea to use them for extra towel or wash cloth hooks. Work great inside or outside of the shower and can be moved around or removed as needed.

Rascal55 07-04-2015 09:18 AM

Battery Control Module
 
Thanks for all the replies to my dilemma. There has been no chattering or bad noises coming from this area for the last few days. Could the problem have been a moisture or humidity issue? We have had some heavy rains recently and the fact that the unit is very exposed and unprotected put that thought in my head.

ctpres 07-04-2015 03:28 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#62 I had mentioned earlier about second step failure due to bad wire routing during installation. Wire was pinched between door frame and door trim - insulation flowed resulting in bare wire shorting to door frame/ground. Results steps open and won't retract. Finally got around to taking care of it and in the process discovered large air gap between sides of door edge of door cavity. 3/8" or so on sides and about 1" at top. Filled top with foam insulation and sides with 1/2 backer rod - pic one. To fix wire problem I cut channel in back side of trim to reduce stress on wire, added some electrical tape around both wires and reinstalled the trim with less tension/pressure on the screws on either side of the wires.

ctpres 07-04-2015 04:27 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#63 One of my punch list items at the factory was to get entry door strut replaced. I figured it should be a damper and slow the opening as opposed to pushing it open with significant force. Tech agreed but soon learned they are built that way. So no fix. It is up to owner to be careful opening the door and not let it fly open which would eventually lead to one of the end studs being broken or worse yet being pulled out of frame making repairs near impossible. Holding on to the door handle to slow opening is not easy. My solution - Camco screen door cross bar, part number 42183. Avail at Walmart for under $15. I found opening door on exit was usually done standing on the second step so I positioned the bar at a comfortable height. Now we unlatch door and hold cross bar to let door open slowly. For us, using it to open or close the screen door is secondary.

sbleiweiss 07-05-2015 04:54 PM

Our screen door and main door often come apart when we don't mean for them to. I would be concerned that using that bar of yours to control the opening of the door would fail if the main door could let go and swing wildly without the screen door. Do yours come apart like I am describing?

ctpres 07-05-2015 09:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2635341)
Our screen door and main door often come apart when we don't mean for them to. I would be concerned that using that bar of yours to control the opening of the door would fail if the main door could let go and swing wildly without the screen door. Do yours come apart like I am describing?

No, the doors have never seperated on their own. I think the screen door to door latch is fairly secure. If yours looks like attached pic may it just needs adjusting. I guess, if we were to wait until door already half way open and grabbed handle to stop it there could be a problem. We just release door latch with one hand and move same hand to the bar before door gets any momemtum. Note that the outside screen door handle is captured by the hook on the door.

sbleiweiss 07-06-2015 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2635714)
No, the doors have never seperated on their own. I think the screen door to door latch is fairly secure. If yours looks like attached pic may it just needs adjusting. I guess, if we were to wait until door already half way open and grabbed handle to stop it there could be a problem. We just release door latch with one hand and move same hand to the bar before door gets any momemtum. Note that the outside screen door handle is captured by the hook on the door.

I think they are the same, although I can't see well with the lighting in your picture. We ordered the cross bar and will try it. thanks for the tip.

Sanford 07-08-2015 07:12 AM

2016 Challenger
 
we are negotiating for a new Challenger at this time. Would love to hear from all regarding workmanship and quality with Thor MH. We are downsizing from a FR Charleston diesel pusher. How does the gas engine perform? Any other info appreciated. Concerned about CW maintenance and service after the sale. Reviews are not good for the CWs in our area.

tedgard01 07-08-2015 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sanford (Post 2639276)
we are negotiating for a new Challenger at this time. Would love to hear from all regarding workmanship and quality with Thor MH. We are downsizing from a FR Charleston diesel pusher. How does the gas engine perform? Any other info appreciated. Concerned about CW maintenance and service after the sale. Reviews are not good for the CWs in our area.


Comparisons depend on your previous DP. Your Ford V-10 will give you the performance of a 365 horse power engine. If you are comparing it to a 450+ DP, with air suspension and air breaks, expect to be underwhelmed. But it should be comparable to a 350 horse power DP.

I think it will take some getting used to the drive. That Ford V-10 is a good engine, the engine/transition will take a bit of a learning curve. I'd suggest, especially if you will have a toad, that you need to get used to using the Tow/Pull button. This will result in better shifting action when using the cruse control. If you don't use cruse that much, then it is fun learning to finesse the shifting by watching the RPM's in relation to the gas peddle on hills.

Most people find the Ford chassis to be a good ride, but they also think the breaking is a bit on the weak side. Again, especially when pulling a toad, using the Tow/Pull button will be a real plus when going on down a grade, due to the fact that the Grade Brake will automatically kick in and keep your speed in check. It is also very helpful (and safer) when you have to break quicker, the Grade Break helps you stop quicker.

Anyway, there is a lot to enjoy in the floor plan and under storage capacity as well. It is a great coach, but definitely not comparable to a large luxurious DP buss.

Have fun.


Ted

sbleiweiss 07-09-2015 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sanford (Post 2639276)
we are negotiating for a new Challenger at this time. Would love to hear from all regarding workmanship and quality with Thor MH. We are downsizing from a FR Charleston diesel pusher. How does the gas engine perform? Any other info appreciated. Concerned about CW maintenance and service after the sale. Reviews are not good for the CWs in our area.

Thor is known for giving the many featurs of a more expensive MH for less money. They also produce some of the best floor plans available. We have never owned another brand, so I really don't know how to compare, but it seems that Thor accomplishes what they do by cutting corners in quality control. Again, I am guessing that some of the other companies are better about this, but I don't know it for sure. Thor is pretty good about fixing the issues in warranty after purchase, although a longer warranty period would be nice.

sbleiweiss 07-09-2015 10:26 AM

Update on our wiper problem

Thor sent us a complete new wiper assembly, free of charge, as a good will gesture. We are past warranty. However, they wouldn't pay for the install and they denied that this is something they have a known problem with. On this forum we know better than that.

Anyway, it was relatively easy to replace. I am not that mechanical so I had an auto mechanic do it. It took him about two hours. He said that it looked like the manufacturer had made some improvements to the assembly since the one that crapped out for us, so we are hopeful that this issue will not reoccur.

The problem seemed to be with the linkage bar (the bar that holds the whole assembly together and connects the two arms). It was bent at both ends. Still not sure why a simple windy rainstorm would have caused this much stress on the system.

LyonsL 07-09-2015 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sanford (Post 2639276)
we are negotiating for a new Challenger at this time. Would love to hear from all regarding workmanship and quality with Thor MH. We are downsizing from a FR Charleston diesel pusher. How does the gas engine perform? Any other info appreciated. Concerned about CW maintenance and service after the sale. Reviews are not good for the CWs in our area.

Sanford, it was nice meeting you & the DW while staying on Emerald Isle. I believe you will be happy with the Challenger if you buy it. You can take it to any dealer or repair facility that services Thor products so you don't have to return to the CW if you buy it there. Check the Thor website for Thor Challenger Dealers to purchase a new Challenger: RV Dealers Thor Motor Coach
There's one in Virginia that is closer to you than the CW in Myrtle Beach.

LyonsL 07-09-2015 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2641106)
Update on our wiper problem

Thor sent us a complete new wiper assembly, free of charge, as a good will gesture. We are past warranty. However, they wouldn't pay for the install and they denied that this is something they have a known problem with. On this forum we know better than that.

Anyway, it was relatively easy to replace. I am not that mechanical so I had an auto mechanic do it. It took him about two hours. He said that it looked like the manufacturer had made some improvements to the assembly since the one that crapped out for us, so we are hopeful that this issue will not reoccur.

The problem seemed to be with the linkage bar (the bar that holds the whole assembly together and connects the two arms). It was bent at both ends. Still not sure why a simple windy rainstorm would have caused this much stress on the system.

sbleiweiss, would you be able to post a photo of the bad part? I'd like to compare it to the one on my coach to see if I have the bad one or possibly a newer version.

sbleiweiss 07-10-2015 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2641425)
sbleiweiss, would you be able to post a photo of the bad part? I'd like to compare it to the one on my coach to see if I have the bad one or possibly a newer version.

New one doesn't look much different from old. I don't think a picture would capture the minor differences the mechanic pointed out. Frankly, even when he pointed to a couple of things he said had been beefed up, I couldn't see the difference he was talking about. I believe him, but a picture wouldn't show you anything. Ours was on a 2014 1/2, purchased new in December, 2013, if that helps.

ctpres 07-10-2015 04:08 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#64 Finally getting around to working on conversion of the remaing incandesant interior lights to LED. For the reading lights over dash, couch and head of bed. I picked white light for reading and found pretty cheap ones on Ebay. Look for "1156 Ba15s Bright White 22 3020-SMD LED." Under $1.10 each in quantity of ten on Ebay. End fired (all LEDs on the end so no light/power is wasted in the metal housing,) one watt, 130 LM and 7000K. Installing these can be a bit difficult and probably best if done by someone with VERY small fingers. Now if I can just find suitable replacements for the ones over the table.


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