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-   -   Thor Challenger Owners Unite! (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor-challenger-owners-unite-150811.html)

LyonsL 07-10-2015 04:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2642724)
New one doesn't look much different from old. I don't think a picture would capture the minor differences the mechanic pointed out. Frankly, even when he pointed to a couple of things he said had been beefed up, I couldn't see the difference he was talking about. I believe him, but a picture wouldn't show you anything. Ours was on a 2014 1/2, purchased new in December, 2013, if that helps.

Thanks anyway. Ours was built May/June/July of 2014. Only have 5000 miles on it and have driven in driving rain several times and fortunately no sign of any problems yet.

sbleiweiss 07-11-2015 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2643213)
Thanks anyway. Ours was built May/June/July of 2014. Only have 5000 miles on it and have driven in driving rain several times and fortunately no sign of any problems yet.

Good luck! Ours had 17,000 miles and we too had been in several driving rains without incident before this happened. Why it happened and why it happened when it did is somewhat of a mystery to us. But hopefully they beefed up before yours was built. Good camping!

sbleiweiss 07-13-2015 08:28 AM

New Question - there are two wires near the lower corner of the screen door on the inside of the stair well. they go into a raised ridge on the wall that mates with a similar raised ridge on the screen door. It almost looks like the way alarm systems arm a sliding window or door, but of course I know the door doesn't have an alarm. Does anyone know what these wires and raised ridges are?

ctpres 07-13-2015 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2647066)
New Question - there are two wires near the lower corner of the screen door on the inside of the stair well. they go into a raised ridge on the wall that mates with a similar raised ridge on the screen door. It almost looks like the way alarm systems arm a sliding window or door, but of course I know the door doesn't have an alarm. Does anyone know what these wires and raised ridges are?

That is a magnetic contact that tells step controller to extend or retract the steps whenever door opens or closes. See More Mod's #62 and #57
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2633940


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2506012

If wires go under door trim it needs to be fixed to prevent future problems

rvbunz 07-14-2015 03:14 AM

ctpres, you beat me to the punch. That's correct t s for the stair operaton

sbleiweiss 07-14-2015 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2647511)
That is a magnetic contact that tells step controller to extend or retract the steps whenever door opens or closes. See More Mod's #62 and #57
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2633940


https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2506012

If wires go under door trim it needs to be fixed to prevent future problems

Oh, now I get it. I didn't put two and two together although I remember your wire under door story. thanks.

Thortogo 07-16-2015 09:33 PM

We have a 2012 37dt challenger purchased new in jan. 2013. We have severe ongoing rubbing, or scrapping noises in our dinette slide. Three trips to factory have not solved this..the awful noise continues. Anyone else experience this in same model?


Sent from my iPad using iRV2 - RV Forum

tedgard01 07-16-2015 10:01 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
I assume you mean during the time you are extending them... Where does the sound seem to be coming from (e.g.: top, sides, base). What did they say at the factory? I have heard of some issues with the glides under the slide scraping the floor. I believe that some have solved the issue by adding a thin metal sheet under the glides.


Ted

Chief2600 07-17-2015 06:07 AM

37dt
 
I purchased 2012 37dt in February of 2012. Cross my fingers the only issue I have had with the slides is the super slide would not go out on my third trip due to a screw shorting the wiring harness. Watch for issue with the hydraulic jacks. I have replaced three brackets to date on the front passenger side. System seems to lift rig too high. C w fixed the first one but I had to pay for the other. Currently looking to sell my unit. Wife passed away and not interested in going out anymore.

ctpres 07-18-2015 03:43 PM

Washer/dryer install questions
 
About to install a vented Splendide WD2100XC. If you installed a combo washer/dryer, where did you vent the dryer and what kind of problems did you encounter? Current plan is install without cutting hole in finished side by running vent below thru floor and out.

tedgard01 07-18-2015 05:54 PM

I installed the stackable W/D. Vented through the side. It was higher on the side, because the dryer is on top. No problems at all so far. We liked the dryer separate from the washer. The clothes come out just like home, just a smaller load. We have used the combo before when in Europe, and the always had issues with the clothes either not getting dry or very wrinkled.

Good luck!

LyonsL 07-19-2015 06:44 PM

Washer & Dryer
 
1 Attachment(s)
We also have a stackable washer & dryer and our dryer is vented out the side. The vent is next to the outside light, next to the entry door.
My DW prefers having both because she can wash one load while another is drying. They take about 1/2 the load of a standard full size washer & dryer and they work very well.

tedgard01 07-19-2015 07:45 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2657069)
... The vent is next to the outside light, next to the entry door. ...


Looks exactly like my vent, except because mine is the GT model, the washer and dryer are in a cabinet in the bathroom area on the driver's side, therefore it vents to the other side of the RV.

sbleiweiss 07-20-2015 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2657155)
Looks exactly like my vent, except because mine is the GT model, the washer and dryer are in a cabinet in the bathroom area on the driver's side, therefore it vents to the other side of the RV.

We have the combo in the KT. Vented outside. Works fine. We didn't want to give up the extra pantry space to have the stackables. We moved the drawers that were in the lower pantry to the upper space when the W/D went in.

LyonsL 07-20-2015 04:09 PM

Valve Stems on Inner Rear Wheels
 
I just read an article from a trucking website that stated the valve stems on steel & aluminum 22.5" wheels are brass and can be bent without damaging them. Can anyone tell me if that's true for the valve stems on my coach?

rvbunz 07-20-2015 07:22 PM

Larry, I replaced my stems with stainless steel from I believe Dually Valves. When I finally get my coach I can tell you exactly.

Thortogo 07-21-2015 01:45 PM

So now two years later and three trips back to Thor we still have severe and super annoying noise from large slide while driving and going over the slightest bump in roads. Luv our 37 DT BUT that noise is not acceptable. At a loss at this point.

LyonsL 07-23-2015 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 2658747)
Larry, I replaced my stems with stainless steel from I believe Dually Valves. When I finally get my coach I can tell you exactly.

Thanks Bob but you can disregard that. I just ordered Dually Valves today.

Any word on when you're getting your coach back? Is it going to mess up your plans for your next trip?

bigdaddy5120 07-24-2015 01:22 PM

I completed my awning LED's today. I will get some night shots when it gets dark.

I bought this kit from amazon :Amazon.com: VinusĀ® 16.4-Feet SMD 5050 5M Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Flexible LED Strip Light Lamp Kit with 44 Key IR Remote Controller W/ 12V 5A Power Supply Adapter: Musical Instruments

and this, I am painting this black, I couldn't find a 2.5 meter in black. :
2 5M Extension Cable Connect 4PINS Plug for 5050 3528 LED Strip Lights RGB White | eBay

I got the power from a cargo light, the porch light can be used , I just didn't want to mess with that. I will just have plug it into the control box when I want to use them, and store the plug in the awning track when not in use.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...71e3340684.jpghttps://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...a7852682f5.jpghttps://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...e90afdb19f.jpghttps://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...d1b0fa7046.jpg

bigben 07-24-2015 03:32 PM

Our experience
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Thortogo (Post 2659946)
So now two years later and three trips back to Thor we still have severe and super annoying noise from large slide while driving and going over the slightest bump in roads. Luv our 37 DT BUT that noise is not acceptable. At a loss at this point.

Okay - here is our experience.

First off our service manager is a very skilled and knowledgeable guy. He and his staff diagnosed it and then fixed it - we thought. That's the bad news. Good news was he figured out what was wrong, fixed it but the repair didn't hold. But even at that, we for sure know our issue. The issue is on the the slide motor mount and the nylon (spelled plastic) alignment/retaining pins.

Going back in for the repair the service manager is gonna do.

IMO 90% of the fix if is knowing what is wrong.

bigdaddy5120 07-24-2015 08:41 PM

Here is a night shot. I plan doing the steps outside and inside . I will tap the power from the step light for the outside and plan on tapping power for the inside from the living room switch. These lights do allot of colors, fades and flashes .
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...0af6931ecb.jpg

ctpres 07-29-2015 10:42 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
4 Attachment(s)
#65 After seven months on the road DW made a MAJOR decision. She was willing to give up half the pantry space in return for a combo washer dryer. As we all know nothing will go away, she will just relocate stuff to other cabinets and relegate some to the basement. More mods on that later. This is not a hard project but it did take me a couple days. Hopefully this information will help someone get it done in hours. Materials:four inch hole saw, hand truck, vented Splendide 2100XC combo washer/dryer, drain pan (optional) and Westland paintable vent kit vid403A. Notes: Chrome vent cover is available. I opted for vented version of dryer as it got best drying reviews and costs less..

Remove pantry doors, drawers, drawer slide rails, shelf, shelf rails and service panel on rear wall. Measure up 34" plus or minus from washer platform and cut off and remove bottom of panel trim. Objective of this step is to allow washer to slide back more allowing doors to close. I verified washer dryer breaker labels and relocated dryer outlet to pantry wall aft side bottom right corner. Now we have a dedicated 15 amp circuit for a space heater. Follow directions for drain pan installation and screw it to washer platform, but do not install the front piece at this time - wait till machine is in place and a couple of test cycles have been run. I ran the pan drain hose almost straight down and thru rotocatst basement floor right next to washer hot/cold drain lines. Next is the scary part. Line up a spot on outside and inside wall that is in line with center of dryer vent. If using the chrome vent cover that can be about where the vent will be. I opted for the paintable cover and the spot ended up in two colors meaning the cover would need two colors and I would be faced with problem of making the color junction look right. I just dropped down a couple inches so the cover can be one color.
Use a very small and short drill bit and drill test holes in space two inches around the inside wall spot. I found a steel plate on the left side and needed to move my spots a inch aft. Once you have measured spot inside and outside several times. Drill a small pilot hole from inside spot thru wall to outside. On outside confirm hole is centered on where you want the cover. Put painters tape over outside area where four inch hole will be and drill hole from outside. Due to heat generated by hole saw, it took three or four passes to finish the hole.
Washer drain standpipe had NO support so I added a couple ty-wraps. Install washer hoses on faucets and run water from both down drain standpipe to: confirm hot and cold faucets, clear any sediment from lines and test drain pipe for leaks. The drain trap threaded connection did have a very small drip leak. Removed added some plumbers grease to threads and reinstalled. Install vent pipe without screws and attach flex pipe. Cut service panel to fit space between top of faucets, ceiling and install.

Bring washer in: retract slide if necessary so door will open fully, use hand truck and two people, weighs around 150 pounds so not a big deal. Once inside remove four shipping bolts and and tubes. Put up on platform and just about 2/3's of the way in. Connect other end of vent pipe, water hoses and plug it in. Space behind washer is very limited so I ran hoses and power cord up above washer and secured with ty-wraps. Slide washer in far enough to be sure: doors will close and there will be room to install front edge of the drain pan. Run test cycle and a couple of loads to be sure nothing vibrates or leaks and everything works. If using the drain pan, install front ledge per instructions.
There is an optional anchor bracket to keep washer from moving around but I decided not to use it. I had trimmed the drain pan so the front joint and rear edge would almost touch front and back of washer. I cut three 1x2's to fit top sides and rear, covered with thin carpet and screwed them to the walls with carpet just at top edges of washer. Carpeted strips are to help keep some of the sounds contained and will keep washer from tipping forward. Do not push against washer top so machine vibrations are not transmitted to the walls. Reinstall drawers and doors. I put first drawer about one inch above top of washer so thin things - like place mats would have a home. I kept four inch wall plug from hole for color match sample when ready to paint the cover. Level vent pipe flange on outside and screw to wall. Screw holes in fiberglass should be just a little bit smaller than screw. Back screws out and put thin bead of silicone caulk behind top edge only and finish setting screws. Caulk sides and bottom. Reason for not caulking top is it is almost impossible to do it without interfering with the way cover hooks to the top. Once cover is painted I will caulk it.
Will post a couple more pics and details on drain tomorrow.
--

sbleiweiss 07-30-2015 09:53 AM

On the road and two questions have come up.

Where is the reservoir for the jacks hydraulic fluid? Do people really check the fluid level monthly like the manual suggests? If you do, do you find you have to add any fluid? The reason I am asking is ours are making a funny noise when retracting, especially from fully (or nearly so) extended.

Second issue is with fireplace heater. I never did move it forward like some have suggested, but we really didn't have much of a problem with it overheating. Now it kicks off after about 5 seconds. Couldn't possible overheat in such a short time, could it? It is effectively worthless like this. Any ideas?

Thanks as always.

ctpres 07-30-2015 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2673216)
On the road and two questions have come up. Where is the reservoir for the jacks hydraulic fluid? funny noise when retracting, especially from fully (or nearly so) extended.

Second issue is with fireplace heater. I never did move it forward like some have suggested, but we really didn't have much of a problem with it overheating. Now it kicks off after about 5 seconds. Couldn't possible overheat in such a short time, could it? It is effectively worthless like this. Any ideas?

Thanks as always.

On KT fluid tank and motor is in basement coach battery compartment which under frig.
Noise? no idea and we never had to add with maybe 100 up and down cycles
Fireplace could overheat in seconds if blower motor failed.
I have service manual for Dimplex DF2524L and DF2524G. PM w email and I will send.

mikensallyt 07-30-2015 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2636129)
I think they are the same, although I can't see well with the lighting in your picture. We ordered the cross bar and will try it. thanks for the tip.


So a new thing on my door opening/closing operation. I can close the screen door with no problems. But now with the outer door I really have always held onto the door when opening it. But I've felt a lot of wind pulling it and pulling it away from me where it just slams open. Now lately I have to slam it to close it and with force. Something just isn't right. I've always held onto the door btw. It seems to be hanging up/jamming on the bottom left side where it meets the door frame. I've checked the locks and that is not the source. One thing I want to mention is that several months ago the door would not open after it was unlocked. I called a locksmith and he opened it in no time (I felt like a fool while paying him) and it worked fine for me for awhile. I don't see any screws causing the problems. But I don't like how you can open the door and it swings so wide open with a lot of force (hard and fast). Any suggestions. Tks/Mikey

tedgard01 07-30-2015 09:45 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2672747)
#65 After seven months on the road DW made a MAJOR decision. She was willing to give up half the pantry space in return for a combo washer dryer....


As usual, you did a great job! Thanks for the pic's. I'd love to see how the paintable vent turned out. I assume you could switch it out for the chrome one if needed...


Ted

ctpres 07-30-2015 10:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikensallyt (Post 2673674)
So a new thing on my door opening/closing operation. I can close the screen door with no problems. But now with the outer door I really have always held onto the door when opening it. But I've felt a lot of wind pulling it and pulling it away from me where it just slams open. Now lately I have to slam it to close it and with force. Something just isn't right. I've always held onto the door btw. It seems to be hanging up/jamming on the bottom left side where it meets the door frame. I've checked the locks and that is not the source. One thing I want to mention is that several months ago the door would not open after it was unlocked. I called a locksmith and he opened it in no time (I felt like a fool while paying him) and it worked fine for me for awhile. I don't see any screws causing the problems. But I don't like how you can open the door and it swings so wide open with a lot of force (hard and fast). Any suggestions. Tks/Mikey

There are two T head bolts protruding from lock that slide into slots on door jamb receiver. Close door slowly and shine light to see if bolts drag on either top or bottom of the two slots. If they do just get big phillips head screw driver - back two receiver screws out enough to move the receiver up or down to point bolts do not touch edeges of the slots. The adjustment should be made with coach on jacks and level. Once adjusted and off jacks they will probably drag again. Coach frame flexs so I am not sure you could adjust for smooth operation on and off jacks. Hope this helps.

sbleiweiss 07-31-2015 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2673468)
On KT fluid tank and motor is in basement coach battery compartment which under frig.
Noise? no idea and we never had to add with maybe 100 up and down cycles
Fireplace could overheat in seconds if blower motor failed.
I have service manual for Dimplex DF2524L and DF2524G. PM w email and I will send.

Thanks Chuck. We have the manual for the fireplace, although apparently we have a different model than you do (DF2500L). Blower seems to be working.

mikensallyt 07-31-2015 04:48 PM

@ctpres tks I will try this. And will let you know if it worked. :)

LyonsL 07-31-2015 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2675083)
Thanks Chuck. We have the manual for the fireplace, although apparently we have a different model than you do (DF2500L). Blower seems to be working.

Sounds like the thermostat has gone bad. Does the blower shut off after 5 seconds or just the heating element?

ctpres 07-31-2015 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikensallyt (Post 2673674)
But I don't like how you can open the door and it swings so wide open with a lot of force (hard and fast). Any suggestions. Tks/Mikey

See post 1789 it worked for us, https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2634026

sbleiweiss 08-01-2015 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2675332)
Sounds like the thermostat has gone bad. Does the blower shut off after 5 seconds or just the heating element?

I believe that just the heating element shuts off. I think the blower stays on, although I haven't left it very long to test that.

sbleiweiss 08-01-2015 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2675332)
Sounds like the thermostat has gone bad. Does the blower shut off after 5 seconds or just the heating element?

No, I was wrong. Both the heat and blower go off after about 5 seconds.

sbleiweiss 08-01-2015 11:51 AM

Everyone has a signature line below their messages except me. How do I program a sig. block?

Scarab0088 08-01-2015 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2676151)
Everyone has a signature line below their messages except me. How do I program a sig. block?

The signature block is accessed in your User Control Panel. See:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/faq.php?f...atures_avatars

Or, post #3 here:
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f62/add-a...ml#post1136013

And please notice posting an image to your signature block is a function added with Supporting Membership.

Thanks for contributing.

ctpres 08-01-2015 01:26 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
3 Attachment(s)
#65 Continued: Posting pic of paintable vent temp installation. Note that whole vent is located within one color. Second pic shows relocated dryer outlet in it's new and useable location. Just cut right size hole - move outlet - existing wire plenty long and add snap on cover plate. Part of washer install involves figuring out how to drain both grey tanks at the same time during long term parking. Got lucky on this one. Since we use Sewer Solutions, it was as simple as adding a Y PVC coupling with hose adapter in the drain for the main tanks and a dump cap with hose fitting. Replace male hose end with female and done.

ctpres 08-01-2015 03:16 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#66 Installing washer/dryer resulted in loss of half of pantry space and need to move things around. Up till now cabinets on either side of fireplace held seldom used items. Getting items from back was a problem. Solution - drawers. At a cost of about $50 per drawer delivered from:Kitchen shelves pull out sliding shelves from $12.95 cabinet accessories pullout shelf shelving ideas roll out shelfs and about 15 minutes per drawer to install - this goes down as an easy one.
Measuring drawer size is the critical part so do it several times and be sure to reduce width if edge of door does not fully clear the opening. Follow website instructions on how to measure. You will probably need to add vertical spacers so rails will mount in line with door opening. In my cabinets that was 3/4" on one side and 1-1/8" on the other. Look at pic #2 - top shelf just over top of white thing and you can see the top end of front and rear spacers.
In case you wonder why fireplace is on - we need it just about every morning to take the chill off here in Sequim, WA

tedgard01 08-01-2015 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2676416)
#66 Installing washer/dryer resulted in loss of half of pantry space and need to move things around. Up till now cabinets on either side of fireplace held seldom used items. Getting items from back was a problem. Solution - drawers. At a cost of about $50 per drawer delivered from:Kitchen shelves pull out sliding shelves from $12.95 cabinet accessories pullout shelf shelving ideas roll out shelfs and about 15 minutes per drawer to install - this goes down as an easy one.

Measuring drawer size is the critical part so do it several times and be sure to reduce width if edge of door does not fully clear the opening. Follow website instructions on how to measure. You will probably need to add vertical spacers so rails will mount in line with door opening. In my cabinets that was 3/4" on one side and 1-1/8" on the other. Look at pic #2 - top shelf just over top of white thing and you can see the top end of front and rear spacers.

In case you wonder why fireplace is on - we need it just about every morning to take the chill off here in Sequim, WA


Very nice... I need to keep this link.


Ted

sbleiweiss 08-02-2015 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2676151)
Everyone has a signature line below their messages except me. How do I program a sig. block?

I added a signature, and am posting this as a test to see if it took.

ctpres 08-04-2015 09:28 PM

More mod's fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#67 When I installed washer dryer we not only lost half our pantry space but we lost a place to keep our keys. Decided next best place would be inside stairwell cabinet. Since one thing always leads to another I ended up relocating the drop down bunk controller. In it's original place it occupied over 1/3 of the bottom shelf. I simply trimmed the end and installed some paneling to cover exposed bare wood. To be sure I didn't put a screw thru the front of door I added a thin spacer behind key holder. And done. Time - under two hours, cost $0.00, new home for keys and more storage.

tedgard01 08-04-2015 09:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2676258)
#65 Continued: Posting pic of paintable vent temp installation.....


That vent looks great!


Ted

sbleiweiss 08-05-2015 10:43 AM

Fireplace Update - Apparently it is our heater assembly that is bad. Dimplex is happy to send us a new one for $85. Anyone here installed one of these?

LyonsL 08-06-2015 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2682376)
Fireplace Update - Apparently it is our heater assembly that is bad. Dimplex is happy to send us a new one for $85. Anyone here installed one of these?

I haven't replaced the heater assembly but it should be an easy repair. Remove the front glass panel and then the 4 screws holding the fireplace into the cabinet. Slide the fireplace out of the cabinet and you should have easy access to open the cabinet and replace the heater assembly.

sbleiweiss 08-06-2015 05:09 PM

Where is the water pump located on the KT?

bigdaddy5120 08-06-2015 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2684618)
Where is the water pump located on the KT?

On my 2014 it is under the bathroom sink cabinet. I'm not sure on a 2014.5 .

ctpres 08-06-2015 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2684618)
Where is the water pump located on the KT?

On our 2015 KT it is in wet bay - right side mounted on bottom.

sbleiweiss 08-07-2015 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2685027)
On our 2015 KT it is in wet bay - right side mounted on bottom.

Chuck: Do you have to take the panel off to get to it? My panel essentially stretches across the entire bay.

ctpres 08-07-2015 10:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2685436)
Chuck: Do you have to take the panel off to get to it? My panel essentially stretches across the entire bay.

Nope - full width panel comes down maybe 2/3's and pump is in open space below panel. It is mounted on a small board that is screwed to rotocast floor of compartment. Can take pic later today if you like.

sbleiweiss 08-07-2015 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2685576)
Nope - full width panel comes down maybe 2/3's and pump is in open space below panel. It is mounted on a small board that is screwed to rotocast floor of compartment. Can take pic later today if you like.

Found it. Don't need pix. Where is filter and how do you take it out to clean it? Sorry to be asking so many dumb questions.

ctpres 08-07-2015 08:18 PM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2685825)
Found it. Don't need pix. Where is filter and how do you take it out to clean it? Sorry to be asking so many dumb questions.

My guess is you have two filters. One - the large whole house filter used to filter city water and a very small debris filter attached to the water pump inlet hose from fresh water tank. Have not followed plumbing lines yet but suspect tank water is also filtered by whole house filter.
Whole house filter is in the long white plastic cyl. in pic 1. Pump filter is very small object connected to pump at end of yellow thing in pic 2. Note: older pump filters have a clear bowl. Both filters unscrew. Large filter may need plastic wrench to remove, is not cleanable but can be removed for inspection and is replaceable. Small pump filter can easily be removed for cleaning and would not normally need to be replaced.

opcop 08-08-2015 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thortogo (Post 2659946)
So now two years later and three trips back to Thor we still have severe and super annoying noise from large slide while driving and going over the slightest bump in roads. Luv our 37 DT BUT that noise is not acceptable. At a loss at this point.

Hello Thortogo,
I have the same year and model coach and I experience the same noise from my driver's side large slide. Sounds like the rubber seals are rubbing against the box making a squeeking noise. I plan on buying a pair of inexpensive slide locks that sit on top of the box when closed. I had a pair on my old TT super slide to keep the box tight which worked great. I will try the same with this coach and see if the noise goes away. Just a thought.

Opcop

sbleiweiss 08-08-2015 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2686410)
My guess is you have two filters. One - the large whole house filter used to filter city water and a very small debris filter attached to the water pump inlet hose from fresh water tank. Have not followed plumbing lines yet but suspect tank water is also filtered by whole house filter.
Whole house filter is in the long white plastic cyl. in pic 1. Pump filter is very small object connected to pump at end of yellow thing in pic 2. Note: older pump filters have a clear bowl. Both filters unscrew. Large filter may need plastic wrench to remove, is not cleanable but can be removed for inspection and is replaceable. Small pump filter can easily be removed for cleaning and would not normally need to be replaced.

I should have been clearer. I am talking about the pump filter. Thanks for the pix and the description. If I want to clean that filter (the manual says to do it regularly), what do I actually have to do? Do I have to somehow stop the water flow? Won't there be a big leak if I disconnect without doing something first?

ctpres 08-08-2015 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2687283)
I should have been clearer. I am talking about the pump filter. Thanks for the pix and the description. If I want to clean that filter (the manual says to do it regularly), what do I actually have to do? Do I have to somehow stop the water flow? Won't there be a big leak if I disconnect without doing something first?

Pump has valve that prevents city water from flowing into tank so that should not be a problem. Water from fresh water tank will flow so you might need to temp install a plug -1/2" I think - or keep open end higher than water level in tank if possible. Filter is only for debris large enough to damage pump or prevent pump valves from sealing and is usually nothing more than a stainless screen. After the first time (learning how to) cleaning should only be a matter of seconds and water loss will be minimal. All I do in unscrew cap, remove filter and flush everything with water from outdoor shower.

sbleiweiss 08-08-2015 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2687357)
Pump has valve that prevents city water from flowing into tank so that should not be a problem. Water from fresh water tank will flow so you might need to temp install a plug -1/2" I think - or keep open end higher than water level in tank if possible. Filter is only for debris large enough to damage pump or prevent pump valves from sealing and is usually nothing more than a stainless screen. After the first time (learning how to) cleaning should only be a matter of seconds and water loss will be minimal. All I do in unscrew cap, remove filter and flush everything with water from outdoor shower.

Mine looks different than yours. On the right side (where your yellow marker is, although I don't have that yellow marker) there is a similar looking line coming in, but it doesn't have the black valve looking thing that looks like it has the screw top. Is that the filter housing? And why wouldn't mine have it?

ctpres 08-08-2015 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2687455)
Mine looks different than yours. On the right side (where your yellow marker is, although I don't have that yellow marker) there is a similar looking line coming in, but it doesn't have the black valve looking thing that looks like it has the screw top. Is that the filter housing? And why wouldn't mine have it?

Yellow marker was just used to point at filter housing.

Screw top is the removable filter

Why you don't have one? Ask dealer or Thor. New one is only five or six bucks and really ought to be there to protect pump.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V2W0GE/...I1R6BO6H7PO3M0

sbleiweiss 08-08-2015 08:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2687633)
Yellow marker was just used to point at filter housing.

Screw top is the removable filter

Why you don't have one? Ask dealer or Thor. New one is only five or six bucks and really ought to be there to protect pump.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V2W0GE/...I1R6BO6H7PO3M0

Yours came standard witih the MH? I am thinking the factory screwed up and left it off of mine.

LyonsL 08-09-2015 08:09 AM

Interior Entry Light
 
3 Attachment(s)
At night, we don't usually use the overhead LED lights in the coach. That's not really a problem except when entering or leaving the coach. The entry steps are very dark and the inside door handle is hard to see. I wanted to install an interior LED light above the entry door and I found our perfect solution at Lowe's.

The Sylvania Motion Detecting LED light attaches with a magnet, is battery operated, very bright, has an adjustable "on" timer and has a photo optic cell so it only comes on when it senses motion and when it's dark. It's bright enough to light the entire stairway and door handle but not too bright to blind you.

After attaching a small round metal disc under the cabinet above the entry door with included adhesive & small screw, the light simply hangs onto the disc with it's built-in magnet. It seems like it won't stay on when attached but it's been road tested and hasn't fallen off!

I mounted the light so the motion detector is pointed towards the door. That way the light does not come on every time you walk past the doorway inside the coach but only when you go down the steps. When entering at night, it turns on as soon as you open the door. I have the "on" timer set at 10 seconds and that works for us.

tedgard01 08-09-2015 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2688248)
... I wanted to install an interior LED light above the entry door and I found our perfect solution at Lowe's...


Thanks, that is nice! I am going to Lowe's to find one today!


Ted

ctpres 08-09-2015 11:10 AM

LyonsL - great find! I have been buying individual electronic parts to do same thing but like your find much better. Thank you.

Vinster30 08-09-2015 05:50 PM

The light is a great MOD. Will be doing the same. Thanks
:goodjob:

bigdaddy5120 08-09-2015 06:24 PM

@LyonsL - Thanks for great easy mod . I done this today ! :goodjob:

handyman1943 08-10-2015 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2688248)
At night, we don't usually use the overhead LED lights in the coach. That's not really a problem except when entering or leaving the coach. The entry steps are very dark and the inside door handle is hard to see. I wanted to install an interior LED light above the entry door and I found our perfect solution at Lowe's.

The Sylvania Motion Detecting LED light attaches with a magnet, is battery operated, very bright, has an adjustable "on" timer and has a photo optic cell so it only comes on when it senses motion and when it's dark. It's bright enough to light the entire stairway and door handle but not too bright to blind you.

After attaching a small round metal disc under the cabinet above the entry door with included adhesive & small screw, the light simply hangs onto the disc with it's built-in magnet. It seems like it won't stay on when attached but it's been road tested and hasn't fallen off!

I mounted the light so the motion detector is pointed towards the door. That way the light does not come on every time you walk past the doorway inside the coach but only when you go down the steps. When entering at night, it turns on as soon as you open the door. I have the "on" timer set at 10 seconds and that works for us.

Great idea, I will be doing the same. Thanks for the information.

opcop 08-10-2015 03:51 PM

Cabinet over entry door modification
 
3 Attachment(s)
This is especially for the 37DT owners. My family was tired of watching TV in the bedroom while on the road because it separated the kids from us. Due to the main LR TV being covered up by the driver's side slide, the kids had no other choice but to use the bedroom. Then I came up with a solution. That stupid, very narrow, almost useless cabinet over the entry door now had a purpose. I took out the middle self inside the cabinet, then mounted a piece of plywood into the aluminum studs in the wall, mounted an articulating TV bracket to the plywood, then attached a very thin Vizio brand LED TV. I drilled a hole in the top forward side of the cabinet and the one next to it to run the power cord and the HDMI cable to the TV/Cable/DVD box in the front overhead cabinet. Works like a charm. Now my family can actually watch TV from the dining booth and we are all together. View my pics below. The trick is to make sure your plywood, bracket, and TV total dimensions don't exceed the cabinet depth.

opcop 08-10-2015 04:35 PM

Fresh water tank vent tubes
 
1 Attachment(s)
I've talked to other Challenger RV owners while on the road and they have had the same problem I did. The fresh water tank, when full for dry camping prior to travel, lost about a half a tank of water due to siphoning pressure and the two overflow vent tubes being open. My solution; I inserted a plastic replacement threaded garden hose end into each tube, secured with a small hose clamp, and screwed on caps to stop water from escaping. I obviously fill the tank with at least one cap off, but once it's full I screw the cap on. Once I arrive at my camp site, I then remove one cap so the water has ventilation for the water pump to pump the water. So far so good. A cheap fix at Home Depot.

LyonsL 08-11-2015 06:08 PM

Major problem with large slide!
 
4 Attachment(s)
Sorry for the late posting but life gets busy sometimes.

The DW & I attended a rally in Goshen, IN in early June. It was a good rally and the trip was uneventful until we arrived home.

We backed into our driveway, leveled the coach and put out the large side on the right side of the coach when we heard a very strange sound and the slide seemed to move slowly. We found out that the slide moves in and out with cables and unfortunately one of the cables snapped. That meant that the slide was stuck in the "out" position and we couldn't get it back in or drive the coach. (Figures it couldn't happen in Goshen when we were 20 minutes from the factory repair center!). So here we were stranded in our own driveway. Well that was the good part. The bad part was we couldn't find anyone in our area that could drive to our home and repair the slide. The dealer in Ohio where we purchased the coach said they would do the warranty repair but it would take awhile before they could get someone out to us and it was going to cost us $971.00 to pay for the repairman's travel. One repair shop 50 miles north of us could do it for $200.00 in travel expenses but their guy was booked for the next six weeks!

I called the Thor factory but they could not help us find a repairman. I told them I would have to do the repair myself and they agreed to ship the cable repair kit to me. They said that it would take one or two weeks for the parts to arrive. Unfortunately we had a trip planned to North Carolina in three weeks so I found a video online that showed how to do the repair and I ordered my own repair kit from Amazon.com. The parts arrived in two days and I had it repaired two days later.

It was a lot of work to replace the broken cable. You have to remove all of the interior wooden trim hiding the slide mechanism before you can replace the cable. Threading the new cable is also a challenge. Not a lot of room to work with and there's also a lot of reading and video viewing to help understand what you need to do.

I ordered two repair kits from Amazon.com (one for a spare) and a large crimping tool (which is absolutely needed to do the repair). Total cost for a kit & crimping tool is about $100.00. I keep both in the coach & hope to never be stranded again!

(The repair kit from the factory arrived in about 10 days so now I have two spare kits.)

The slide is controlled by the BAL Accu-Slide system. you can view their repair video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lQWBI0gnhpI

The cable repair kit & crimping tool can be purchased here:
Amazon.com: BAL 22305 Cable Repair Kit Accuslide: Automotive
Tie Down 43005 26" Hand Swaging Tool, Cap: Sizes 1/16 to 3/16 Inch w/ Cutter (Grainger 6MR91) - Wire Cutters - Amazon.com

On a positive note, Thor did agree to go over my coach and make sure that the cables & system are adjusted and working properly. I have an appointment at the Thor Factory Service Center on August 24th.

ctpres 08-11-2015 08:32 PM

opcop: just an idea - try backflow preventer with hose fittings - seems to me it would work and you would not have to be remembering to remove and replace.

ctpres 08-11-2015 08:37 PM

LyonsL - sorry you had the problem - but you gave us all enough info should we have same problem. BTW - not sure that it matters but sure looks like compression job failed rather than cable broke.

opcop 08-11-2015 10:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2692765)
opcop: just an idea - try backflow preventer with hose fittings - seems to me it would work and you would not have to be remembering to remove and replace.

Nice idea. Now to find a small backflow that doesn't hang down too far. Thanks for the idea.

JohnG2013KT 08-12-2015 11:09 AM

'Plugging' overflow lines
 
OPCOP -- I tried a similar fix to the siphoning problem ... I simply fashioned a 'plug' .. to push into each tube .. AND at the same time, I cut a big red rectangle (cut from the side of a plastic Folger's coffee can) and attached it to the hose fill bib .. with a warning to "OPEN" overflow tubes before filling" ..

All went well .. filled my tank, plugged the overflows and shut the access door .. Got to my first stop .. checked water levels. And while the tank level was down some .. When I opened the compartment where the water tank is .. to get some BBQ tools out .. much to my surprise .. .everything was soaked!!!

I assume that the overflow tubes are sealed into the tank ... just pushed thru a hole ... Not sure what to do now ..

ctpres 08-12-2015 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 2693579)
. Got to my first stop .. checked water levels. And while the tank level was down some .. When I opened the compartment where the water tank is .. to get some BBQ tools out .. much to my surprise .. .everything was soaked!!!..

Not sure what happened but maybe temp or altitude changes changed air pressure in tank and some weak point failed. Probably not a good idea to seal air tight - must have some air in source to compensate for water used in transit.

ctpres 08-12-2015 07:15 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#68 Incandescent 1076 bulbs in fixture over dinette are failing like popcorn. I ended up buying a dozen while I search for suitable LED replacement. Removing burned out bulb was always so difficult I was afraid bulb was going to shatter in my hand. So today I decided to check it out. On inspection I found soft metal contact on burned bulbs had melted from heat and flowed to from a great bond around socket contact making it hard to rotate bulb. See pic 1. Heat generated by bulb was contained/trapped in socket by a metal can so I removed can for better air circulation. Replacing with LED is best answer but the dual contact base is pretty rare in LED world and finding one with enough lumens for reading (old eyes) is even more difficult. In the meantime the cooler bulbs will last longer

ctpres 08-13-2015 12:16 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#69 Finally got around to making our solar/privacy shade screen. Material needed 6'x15' shade cloth and enough 1/4" braided cloths line from Home Depot for under $30.00. 3/16 rope will do but you will need to double up on fabric around rope so it will stay in the track. Fold long edge of fabric over rope and sew it closed. Cut ends of rope even with fabric and hand sew thru rope and fabric to keep rope from sliding out. To install screen retract awning till open slot is almost vertical (see pic one) and there will be enough open space on end to slide screen into track. The material is thin enough that we can fully retract awing without removing the screen. Install once and done.

ctpres 08-13-2015 02:47 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#70 A couple of our basement latches would stick in the open position. First I just bumped the latch assembly with my fist and latch extended for closing. Next shot at quick fix was to slightly loosen the two square drive screws nearest latch. Eventually I had to get serious and take them apart. Remove the four square drive screws and hold outside assembly in place as last screw is removed. Pull out on hinge end of outside assembly tilting it and it will come out. Remove Phillips head screw holding the X shaped cam and TWO washers. Lift X cam off pivot. Turn assembly over and slide latch bar out and remove spring. Wipe/clean off all old lube and crud, re lube on wear points especially X cam shaft surfaces and wear side of the flat washer. Reinsert latch bar and push it in enough to reinstall X cam, (spring should not show) flat washer and screw with lock washer. Operate numerous times to spread lube and to be sure latch is not sticking any more before reinstalling in door. First latch might take thirty minutes but the rest in more like five minutes. Hint Memory trick - security guard is on duty when he/key is standing or vertical and off duty when key is horizontal.

opcop 08-13-2015 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 2693579)
OPCOP -- I tried a similar fix to the siphoning problem ... I simply fashioned a 'plug' .. to push into each tube .. AND at the same time, I cut a big red rectangle (cut from the side of a plastic Folger's coffee can) and attached it to the hose fill bib .. with a warning to "OPEN" overflow tubes before filling" ..

All went well .. filled my tank, plugged the overflows and shut the access door .. Got to my first stop .. checked water levels. And while the tank level was down some .. When I opened the compartment where the water tank is .. to get some BBQ tools out .. much to my surprise .. .everything was soaked!!!

I assume that the overflow tubes are sealed into the tank ... just pushed thru a hole ... Not sure what to do now ..

I don't know if the overflow tubes are just pushed into the tank or not, but I assume they are sealed and connected at the top. I have not had that leak issue with my caps on. One thing I did forget to mention is that I open up both the hot and cold valves to one of my bathroom sinks when in transit. I do this as a precaution in the event pressure builds up in the tank. Even though the WP shouldn't allow the air pressure to flow through when it's off, I find it a comfort just in case. Maybe I'm just lucky so far. Just remember to shut off the valves when you turn on the WP. I hope your water tank hasn't developed a crack.

opcop 08-14-2015 12:24 AM

Just my 2 cents about the Lippert auto jack levelers
 
I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this issue. On several occasions I used my auto level feature on my Lippert jack system and found the auto level actually lifted my wheels off the ground. Sometimes it was the front, sometimes the back and the spot was relatively level already. I didn't like the feeling of the coach so I re-did it manually. The final straw was when I pulled into my campsite which was all gravel with a very minor slope down towards the driver's side. I used the auto level function and the jacks began to lift my front wheels off the ground, except this time I felt the front of the coach start to slide toward the driver's side and I immediately hit the "retract jacks" button and allowed the coach to sit on the ground again. I got out of the coach and looked at the front jacks for damage. I noticed the passenger side bracket that mounts to the frame bent outward slightly. I put the jacks down just touching the ground and found the passenger front jack leaned outward about 2", but the jack itself was not damaged. I had to buy a new bracket from Lippert to make it straight up and down again.

Now I just manually lower my jacks. I start with the rear jacks first just touching the ground then the front jacks. After they have all touched the ground I can make my adjustments left/right, front/back as needed. Doesn't take long and now I don't have the wheels coming off the ground. I know the system can be adjusted so it wont do this, but I find comfort in doing it myself because the feeling of the couch sliding sideways was quite unsettling. Has anyone else had this same issue?

Rascal55 08-14-2015 07:34 AM

I found the water ran out of the overflow tubes when going up or down steep grades. I put ball valves into each overflow tube and when traveling turn the valves to off. This stopped the water from leaking out the tank. Just remember to open the valves before using water from the tank or filling the tank.

Rascal55 08-14-2015 07:37 AM

I now always level my coach manually. I found that using the automatic feature generally raised the coach more than needed.

tedgard01 08-15-2015 12:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2695475)
#70 A couple of our basement latches would stick in the open position....


I have this problem as well, so I will try your fix and tips.. Thanks.


Ted

tedgard01 08-15-2015 12:23 AM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rascal55 (Post 2696504)
I now always level my coach manually. I found that using the automatic feature generally raised the coach more than needed.


X2. It is even easier to get level... But I will use the auto level when I am on a concer at pad that is very level.


Ted

Hoegee 08-15-2015 07:25 AM

Having the same issue I my 36fd. Turns out Thor is aware of this and had a printed fix it sheet that intails running a line to the rear of the coach behind the turn signal

tedgard01 08-15-2015 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoegee (Post 2697965)
Having the same issue I my 36fd. Turns out Thor is aware of this and had a printed fix it sheet that intails running a line to the rear of the coach behind the turn signal


Which post was this response for....?


Ted

sbleiweiss 08-15-2015 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2697821)
X2. It is even easier to get level... But I will use the auto level when I am on a concer at pad that is very level.


Ted

Me too. Manual works better and is easy enough.

Chief2600 08-15-2015 02:16 PM

I have a 37dt challenger as well and experienced the same problem. Bent and replaced three brackets on passenger side. Use manual only. CW said I was doing it wrong and warranty did not cover

tedgard01 08-15-2015 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chief2600 (Post 2698536)
I have a 37dt challenger as well and experienced the same problem. Bent and replaced three brackets on passenger side. Use manual only. CW said I was doing it wrong and warranty did not cover


CW is wrong. What did they say you were doing wrong? There is nothing is the warranty saying you have to level using either the manual nor the auto level... I've never heard such hogwash. I'd make them prove that.


Ted

opcop 08-15-2015 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2699166)
CW is wrong. What did they say you were doing wrong? There is nothing is the warranty saying you have to level using either the manual nor the auto level... I've never heard such hogwash. I'd make them prove that.


Ted

When it happened to me, I didn't even bother calling Thor about the warranty because I figured that's what they would say. Anyway, I ordered the bracket straight from Lippert for about $49. In the long run it was far cheaper than driving the MH 95 miles from Yucca Valley to Giant RV in Murrieta, Ca, then most likely leaving it there, and drive back to get it just for warranty work if they even approved it.

Chief2600 08-16-2015 07:47 AM

l ippert jacks
 
CW service didn't specify what I was doing wrong and l told him he didn't know what he was talking about. I took pictures of brackets and sent to Thor. They run a loom of wire along the frame and then attached the brackets. The brackets are only bolted with four bolts instead of the six that are required which makes the brackets weak. They should have mounted brackets first so they would be fully supported by the frame.

Hoegee 08-16-2015 07:53 AM

Water tank
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by tedgard01 (Post 2698202)
Which post was this response for....?


Ted

Sorry, thought I quoted but I guess not.
Was referring to water tank loss
Mike

tedgard01 08-17-2015 12:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoegee (Post 2699509)
Sorry, thought I quoted but I guess not.

Was referring to water tank loss

Mike


No problem, just curious which to associate it to... Thanks.


Ted

tedgard01 08-17-2015 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chief2600 (Post 2699502)
CW service didn't specify what I was doing wrong and l told him he didn't know what he was talking about. I took pictures of brackets and sent to Thor. They run a loom of wire along the frame and then attached the brackets. The brackets are only bolted with four bolts instead of the six that are required which makes the brackets weak. They should have mounted brackets first so they would be fully supported by the frame.


Hummm, I better look at mine....


Ted

handyman1943 08-18-2015 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoegee (Post 2699509)
Sorry, thought I quoted but I guess not.
Was referring to water tank loss
Mike

WE HAD THE SAME PROBLEM WITH OUR "NEW" 2013 kt KT but our dealer fixed it by routing the rear drain to the rear of the unit and up inside the rear cap. He also put a shutoff on the front drain. I normally open the valve on the front drain when filling the tank so I can see the water come out when the tank is full, then I shut the valve off. If I forget to open the valve, water just comes out the rear line instead when the tank is full. Works great for us.

ctpres 08-22-2015 01:16 PM

More Mod's Fixes & Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#71 Was looking for some kind of cell phone holder for the toad and came across this neat little gizmo. Small for smart phone but just right for my billfold.
Found it on Ebay under "mesh net organizer." Around five bucks and a lot less from China direct. Has 3M double stick tape on back. Put it in cabinet above entry door with car keys. Just grab and go.

sbleiweiss 08-26-2015 01:14 PM

Speaking of mods and fixes, I am noticing that many brands of motorhome have windows that open much farther than do the windows on Challengers. Has anyone looked into whether ours could be adjusted or modified to open farther?

LyonsL 08-28-2015 07:46 AM

Major problem with large slide
 
On a positive note, Thor did agree to go over my coach and make sure that the cables & system are adjusted and working properly. I have an appointment at the Thor Factory Service Center on August 24th.[/QUOTE]

Back from the Thor Factory Service Center in Wakarusa, IN and ALL IS GOOD! They found another frayed cable and replaced it, realigned two outside brackets, enlarged some of the openings in the inner slide frame where the cables were rubbing and properly adjusted the tension on all 8 cables. The super slide moves very smooth now! Hope that is the last of problems with that slide.

ctpres 08-28-2015 12:53 PM

Big news!
 
:dance:
Suzie has finally decided to FULL TIME! Now begins the long process of gifting, selling and donating. We will soon find out if the many changes I made over the past year are keepers or mistakes. Stay tuned.

ctpres 08-28-2015 05:11 PM

Do not miss this!
 
Thanks to dooubrasky we now have program instructions for the Rapid Camp.
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/rapi...ml#post2719285

bigben 08-29-2015 07:28 AM

ctpres - ENJOY the full time. We are 2/3s, still have a home base but truly enjoy our time in the coach.

bigdaddy5120 08-29-2015 08:28 PM

I got the beast washed and waxed with RejeX today , I am now ready for football season ! Roll Tide !
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...4a30f73d23.jpghttps://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...ec61945e0f.jpghttps://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...26204eeae5.jpg

ctpres 08-30-2015 01:35 PM

IMPORTANT pre departure inspection item
 
Several have had problem with cable breaking on big slide. Pictures looked like at least one was a failure of the compression process at external cable end fitting. Decided to make it part of my routine visual inspection. Guess what I found today? One or two strands broken at one fitting. Now to find a GGOD shop between NW WA and Houston and hope I can get it fixed before more fail.

bigben 08-31-2015 07:12 AM

bigdaddy5120 - SWEET

wingtrike 08-31-2015 07:43 AM

Bigdaddy5120: Nice unit. We have one identical to yours..

MH safely,

Alex


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