I have a 2014 37KTt and over the weekend a few minor things happened.
#1 The auto leveler would not allow the rear jacks to go down, but manually I could put them down. Could this be a fuse somewhere.

#2 The shower door decided to stick really bad where it had to be lifted to close,is there a way to adjust the door.I pulled the trim off the top of the shower and accessed underneath but there was nothing there to adjust.

#3 A little water seeped from the seal under the toilet seat .I would be surprised if that seal only lasted 2 years.

#4 The screws that hold the electric awning cap on the ends are coming out and 1 is lost. I'm not sure if loctite will do any good or if I should just use a dab of silicone.

as always any comments would be appreciated

ctpres, both of the frayed cables on my coach were caused by the cables rubbing on the steel framing of the slide, not a failure of the compression fitting. If you have a cable starting to fray or break, then it's rubbing on the frame of the slide. The corresponding bracket needs adjusted or the opening in the frame needs enlarged when you replace the cable.

Great photo’s!!

Thanks for all the likes :) It was allot of work but worth it .

Thanks for the information. I will check out my 2013 tomorrow! Will let you know what I find.

Wow, that's a tough weekend. I might not be calling these a few minor things. We have the same problem with the shower door. As far as we can tell after checking with dealers and the shower surround manufacturer, the only adjustment available involves loosening the entire surround; something we have not been willing to do after having a RV tech do a nice job caulking it.

Well, everything is fixed now.
i did call thor about the shower but I really wasn't buying their solution to the problem, so I was able to shim the hinge side up, re-caulked the plate on the inside of the shower where the door closed and everything is perfect.
I replaced the awning self tapping screws with larger ones and a little bit of lock-tite. The jacks are working fine now and i'm not sure if the toilet seal needs replacing because it is just a foam gasket. The water may have come from the shower door not closing .I did but a new foam gasket for the toilet and will replace it if necessary. We still love the coach and can deal with these minor issues

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 

Yep.... We love ours as well, but the RV life is one of expecting a few thing from time to time. Having a truck, a car, and a house on weeks in motion will result in something needing attention. Just the nature of the lifestyle.

Best of luck on the journey.

We had the exact same problem in our 2013 Tuscany. We were able to remove the screw at the top of the shower door, take out the door, shim up the bottom with a few nylon washers, reassemble the door and it fits perfectly now. That required 2 hours of work, two of us had to work to get this done.

Thor gave us the name of the Shower Enclosure manufacturer, we called them and they told us to remove the entire shower assembly.

Shower Enclosures America 800-536-7324 ext 3110 Triko Mernia

Praxis Group is the shower door - 1322BN-1T part number

Don't bother when this happens to your shower door, you CAN get the top screw out but it's not easy.

Rear Ladders Breaking -
On our 2014 1/2 KT the rear ladder extends below the bottom of the vehicle. As such it has twice bottomed out when crossing from a road into a driveway with a larger than average dip. this time it broke the ladder. Has anyone found a fix for this? It needs a shorter ladder. This was a ridiculous design choice. Does anyone know of a ladder available that will fit the same brackets but is shorter? Alternatively I am thinking of just removing the broken ladder and leaving the brackets in place to cover the existing holes. Any thoughts on that? Thanks.

See post #1743 https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2584154

Thermostat issue
 

We live on the edge of civilization .. here in Central Florida ... and from time to time lose power ... When this happens and the electricity finally comes back, the thermostats in the MH reset to 72 .. We normally keep them around 78-80 ... when the coach is not in use .. Does anyone know if there is an adjustment that can be made to the thermostat or is it time to invest in an upgrade?

Suspension and Tire Problem -

It has been a difficult trip. We have been noticing a strange and early wear issue on one front tire. On the trip home it has been getting worse to the point that we stopped at a truck tire repair place and had it checked out. They checked for things like a bad shock or steering knuckle, but found dry kingpins. They said this was causing the tire to bounce and tear up. They said we stopped just in time because it was already seperated and a blowout waiting to happen. they greased the kingpins but said they should be replaced, and sold us one new tire to limp home on.

I would be suspicious of the advice, except the place that diagnosed the kingpins and greased them seemed to know what they were talking about, and didn't charge me anything. The place that had one tire that would work wasn't the one that did any diagnosis.

But does this make sense, and who was supposed to grease these kingpins that I didn't even know existed?

My propane carbon monoxide detector went crazy and would not stop going off on Friday and when I pulled it I must have blown a fuse . Does anyone have a wiring diagram of a 2013 Thor challenger 37dt.? Right now my detector described above has no power as well as the level indicator and the outside radio( all 12 v ?) I checked all of the 12 v fuses on side of bed as well as the fuses under the hood. Anyone have an idea

There is also some fuses to the left of the brake peddle. I can't offer any other information on the fuses .

Carefully pull any slack wire out from behind detector looking for fuse. Damon put fuse behind detector and I don'd know if Thor changed that.

Grey water tanks
 

I have a 2016 challenger 37kt which has two 40 gallon grey water tanks. One for a wash machine which I don't have and the other is for the sinks/shower.
Is they a way to run a hose/tub of some sort to be able to use both tanks as one?

Grey Tanks
 

I don't think you can tie both tanks in together. Why would you want 80 gallons of grey water?

For one time situation you could. Kinda messy but doable. Just buy two dump end caps with hose fittings and using an adapter connect tanks with garden hose. Perm connection is also doable but I would let a shop do that.

We wanted (want) to do the same thing. Thor gave us a ridiculous price ($2000+) to try to do it with no guarantees. Total Value gave us a reasonable price and we said go. when the contractor came to spin in the connections he refused to do it. So I have not found a way.

Why want to do it? For camping at CGs with only dump stations and not sewer at the sites (or boondocking).

More mods fixes and upgrades
 

#72 While our KT handles pretty good on the road I had concerns about our ability to handle steering in the event of a sudden steer tire failure. After a lot of reading here on IRV2 I decided Safe-T-Plus was the best for us. I won't go into details of DIY installation other than my own install tips and Safe-T-Plus documentation problems. Read F53 kit installation instructions and watch youtube video. Following applies to 21-430/blue unit with F53-2.5 kit on 2015 Thor 37KT Challenger on 2014 Ford F53 chassis with 22.5' tires.
PROBLEM #1 . Video shows 3/4 bolts with nut on top and washer on bottom
Printed instructions show nut on bottom and washer on top
PROBLEM #2 Video shows washers on unit bushing and printed instructions show it on top of plate on the large end and on unit bushing on the small end. The final answers were.The 3/4 bolt can go ether way, just make sure to check clearance. The small end of the STP can go on the top or bottom of the tie rod bracket. Which ever makes the unit more level. On the large end the washer goes between the bolt and the anchor bracket (see 4a); on the smaller end the washer goes between the bolt and the bolt and the end of the unit (see 4b)
It's a real shame to spent that kind of money and get such sloppy instructions.
Decision to buy and install came during three month stop so there was no chance to find steering wheel centered position on the road. I got around that by running a string from rear tire around front tire just below chrome cap. Then all I had to do was turn wheel so string touched front tire equally on front and back edges. Removing and reinstalling the 3/4 inch nuts use PB Blaster or WD40 on 3/4 ubolt threads then clean with wire brush makes nut removal much easier. If impact wrench not avail. add 1/2" breaker bar to list of tools needed. Tightening the 3/4 inch bolts with coach on the ground I could not hold open end wrench on top and operate wrench on bottom at the same time. I solved that by just wrapping some stiff wire around end of open end wrench and tie rod.
First day on the road was almost 400 miles. String trick above got me so close to straight that I did not want to waste time trying to adjust it. I must say it makes driving a lot easier. Worth the money for that alone.

ctpres, thanks for sharing. This is one of the items on my to-do list and it's good to hear that it's worth the time & money!

ctpres Thanks for sharing. Can you take some pictures of the install. The wife and I were just talking about adding this.

I have a 2013 37gt with 10000 mile and two front tires that where worn out. The alignment shop said that the toe was out even though the MH drove straight down the road. I watched the alignment. After two new tires and alignment I drove the MH for the first time and saw the steering wheel was off, so back to the dealer and he said that he thought the front end was off from the mfg. so the steering wheel would be straight. All I need to do is adjust the wheel and I should be good. Long story short check the alignment its most likely the problem. There is only one adjustment on the front end.

Yes, toe of the allignment is what my Ford dealer is telling me too. I hope for both of our sakes that they are right. Ford also found my kingpins with too much play up and down. They are shimming them under warranty, but said this would not have caused the tire problem.

On a related note, relevant to all Challenger owners, I am having a hell of a time finding a replacement Michelin tire. They are out of stock and out of production. To make matters worse, no other tire company makes the size that Thor uses on the Challenger.

My kingpins are ok, but yes the tires are harder to find my dealer said he only had 4 and I bought 2. He said he didn't now when they would be making more. These tires are hard to find no matter where you go that is why I carry a spare with me at all times. I used a boat trailer crank to lift the tire and rim up under the back of the MH then used chain booms to hold it in place. I also have everything to change the tire myself if need be.
I think there is other tire mfg. that make a tire that will work but it is wider or taller and you wouldn't be able to use just one. My two tires and alignment was $1240.00. Not the greatest deal but this is the only dealer in my area that can do both tires and alignment.

We limped home from Wyoming on a Goodyear that was taller and wider. Tire experts are telling me that it wouldn't be good even to put two of them on (both fronts). I am not sure what to believe, but Ford found the tire for me. A Ford dealer in GA had one. Apparently Ford pays to send tires around from dealer to dealer. I will post the cost for allignment and one tire when I learn it. Thor also found a dealer in Elkhart that could get seven of them. I am going to buy one of those to and carry a spare. I am not going to mount it as it seems there are always truck tire places around that can do that. It is getting the tire in the first place that can take days.

Levelling - Is there a way to calibrate the auto level feature to make it match what a level tells you is really level? It would be nice if you could trust when the center light comes on, indicating the coach is level. We can't.

Yes there is a calibrate procedure. Does your LCI control have an LCD display?

From the LCI manual:

Level Zero Point Calibration
Before auto leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the
system will return when an auto leveling cycle is initiated.
To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a
manual leveling sequence to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point
configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off.
2. Perform the following:
• Press the FRONT switch 10 times (on Winnebago units press the FRONT button 5 times).
• Press the REAR switch 10 times (on Winnebago units press the REAR button 5 times).
3. At this point, an alarm will sound and the display reads ZERO POINT CALIBRATION PRESS ENTER.
4. System can be operated in the MANUAL MODE to attain level condition during this period.
5. Press ENTER to set the zero point.
6. Screen will then display PLEASE WAIT.
7. Alarm will sound and the screen will display ZERO POINT SUCCESSFUL.
8. Control will then turn “OFF”.
For DIESEL UNITS with Air Bag Suspensions ONLY:
• The leveling control will automatically program for air bag control. If the unit does not use air bags,
the display will read, “NO” for air bag control.

No. We have no LCD display. Only the center light and one light next to each button (front, rear, left, right).

Try this and good luck.
"
Before auto-leveling features are available, the Level Zero point must be set. This is the point to which the system will return
when an auto leveling cycle is initiated.
To set the zero point (controller module must be fully secured in production intent location), first run a manual leveling sequence
to get the vehicle to the desired level point. Then activate the Level Zero point configuration mode.
This mode is enabled by performing the following sequence:
1. Turn panel off. Then turn panel on.
2. Perform the following:
-Press the FRONT switch 5 times.
-Press the REAR switch 5 times.
3. At this point all LED outputs will blink, and the buzzer will be off.
4. You are now in IDLE mode ready to set Zero Point.
5. With a carpenter’s level, manually level the coach. This will give the leveling controls the reference point for the
Zero Point Configuration.
6. When coach is completely leveled manually press the RETRACT ALL switch 3 times to set the zero point.

After having the front end aligned on the MH I noticed that the steering wheel was not centered anymore so I took it back to the alignment shop and they said that I needed an adjustable drag link (this was a lie they don't make one) after researching this I found that on the newer MH you cant take the steering wheel off to realign the wheel you have to take the splined knuckle off the top of the steering box which I did and the wheel is back to straight again ( I think I only moved it one spline it does take two people to do this the DW was great help). Unless you are a fix it yourself type of person you should have the alignment shop do this for you.

My letter to Mr. Thor
 

Just got home after a ten month, 10,258 mile trip around the US in our new 37KT - During this trip I have been making a list of mostly minor changes we would like to see. Here they are in no special order:


Add felt pads to inside edegs of bottom door guides. One less rattle.


Replace huge deck plate in power bay with 50 amp cable hatch. Keeps rodents and bigger bugs out.


Get Ford to deliver chassis with long stems on inner dual.


Relocate dash night shade switch. Current spot very hard to reach with table installed and chair in table use or TV viewing position. Just swap positions with a switch on the other side of steering wheel.


Rear window valance off center just a bit to the curb side will allow full opening of closet door

Snap buttons on aft end of driver/passenger curtains. Would allow easy opening of curtains from either end. Reaching across dash to open or close especially on the drivers side is a real bear. Better ventilation (no curtain blocking window opening) and can open window for ventilation with curtain still covering front half of window as sunscreen. Plus it's a lot easier to close curtain on aft end at night


Add reading light on bottom of drop down bunk centered on table


Outside TV hatch goes beyond horizontal on open. Two problems with that: Sudden rain or leaky awning water will hit hatch and run back to hinge side then down in enclosure splashing on TV. With coach up on jacks it is impossible for average height person to reach hatch to close it. Shorter strut or relocate strut ends so open position is below horizontal. Lower angle should keep water out of enclosure, provide better shading of screen for daytime viewing and put hatch within reach of more people for closing.


Change ionization smoke detectors to photoelectric. Frequent false alarms result in battery removal and loss of important protection. False alarms were so bad for us that I had to remove battery from mid coach detector. We could not even make toast without setting off both detectors. I converted the two original detectors to photoelectric and added one in front. Not one false alarm since. There was nothing wrong with the ionization detectors - they were working as desigend - going into alarm on thinks we can't see


Vent microwave/convection to outside.


Put frig on floor - adequate return air for furnace not that hard


Require EVERY vendor supplying appliances, furniture and major components to have a website with manuals and self help info.


Thor produced DVD in player with every new coach for sales demo and buyer use later. Tells Thor story, explains features of the coach and how to use the various systems


Tag line for advertising series "Leave your suitcase at home." Take you next vacation in a Thor and "leave your suitcase at home" or Who needs a suitcase when you travel with Thor.


Customers at Thor factory for service often run out of things to do. Let them inspect finished products while they wait


Light in shower for use at night


Rear ladder a few inches shorter. Bottom of ladder is well below lowest point on hitch. Many have been damaged/broken with modest grade changes like entering gas station.


Move smoke detector at entry (37KT) to front room. Better yet have fire protection for every floor plan approved by a certified fire alarm planner. RVIA/UL standard is a joke. One time cost of a few hundred bucks for each floor plan is insignificant.


Ventilation is a problem with frame less windows - not enough surface area and they block any wind. Add another ceiling vent in front over the drop down bunk


Rear window fire exit idea. Hinge the whole rear window on street side - make ledge below window on rear cap flat with 3M stair tread. Open widow stand on bed step out on ledge and climb down ladder. Plus with frame hinged it should be possible to have operable window for ventilation


Cross ventilation on KT limited with only two operable windows street side vs. six on curb side. How about long narrow window at head of bed just below cabinets


Do not change floor plan. It is great.

ctpres - NICE review - thank you. We took a mini version of your trip (about 8500 miles) with three of our grandkids. And you are right - leave the suitcase home.

Funny thing, we believe the kids were kinda "burned out" on traveling and seeing things after 45 days. But after getting back into school and talking with their friends and teachers - they are ready to go again. Seems everyone went WOW.

Again, thanks for the recap. We have the 37TB but several of your suggestions are applicable.

Great list Chuck. We have done several of your fixes aftermarket, some DIY, some at Total Value RV.

My theromostat is against the cabinet wall under a cabinet, there's no or little air flow air back there. It reads 5-7 degs warmer than 2 thermometers I have in open areas. It will be relocated by moving it to the edge for the cabinet wall inward toaward the center of the coach. Later this week.

Great post Chuck!!!

KC

Seems to be more of a problem with the thermostats. Agreed they must be in place to measure moving air but mine are three to five degrees high with a fan blowing on them. Factory service center says mine are acceptable.

Vent microwave / convection to outside
 

ctpres, this was also on my to do list since the day that we bought the coach & I just finished the project. It was not a difficult job but it took a lot of courage to cut the hole in the side of the coach.

I bought & attached a damper to the rear of the microwave after removing and changing the direction of the blower motor. I also made a short section of ducting to fill the gap between the damper and the outside vent cover. All told the job took about 3 hours.

The attached photos show the inside & outside of the coach after cutting the hole in the wall and the finished project. I've also included a photo showing the thickness of the coach walls (for those that are curious).

LyonsL GREAT job and it looks fantastic. Do you have part numbers and source for vent and damper.

The damper is a standard model that fits a lot of microwaves. It's Whirlpool Part #8206442. I saw it on the Whirlpool website for $50 and other sites for $35 but I found one at a local appliance repair shop for $20.

I bought the outside vent here: Microwave Oven Vent. It's solid black plastic but it's built well and looks good compared to others that I saw.

I've added a better photo of the outside vent.

Big slide cable size?
 

Does anybody know what size the cable is? Ordering DIY repair kit and not sure which size swaging tool I need 3/16 or 5/32.

Great idea!! I would also be interested in any source of parts you could provide.

5/32 is the size you need.

I promised to report the cost of my alignment and one new Michelin, mounted and balanced. The Ford dealer charged me $640 for this work. Kingpins were shimmed under warranty.

Anyone been to Thor warranty work since it moved to Wakarusa? What can you tell me about it. We head there tomorrow for a Monday morning appointment. Are there enough spots for all appointments? Is there a lounge to spend time in while the MH is being worked on? Any restaurant recommendations in the area? thanks.

We were one of the first to be serviced at the new facility. Lounge has TV, pretty fast wifi and seating for maybe a half dozen. We spent about five nights there and ate out at least once a day. Can't say any one place to eat was great. Every place we tried was good. Don't miss the factory tour. I was really disappointed in that no pictures allowed. Some GPS's don't like the address. We just put in a lower number and it worked OK. Once you get on the street it is at the end on the left side. Parking spaces slope quite a bit so getting level might not happen without front tires being in the air. Dump is in front corner and on a slope also. Let us know how the punch list turns out.

Thanks. Will do.

Theater Seating
 

Has anyone purchased a 2016 37KT? And if so, did you get the theater seating option. Wondering if it is worth it. I have a 2015 and would like to replace the couch, with perhaps the 2016 seating.

2016 k37 seating
 

We are expecting delivery of our 2016 any day. We ordered the standard couch because we wanted the seat for three people with seat belts. Really like the theater seats as well.

Sanford
37kt

We're also interested in that option. We were at the Thor Service Center recently but did not have the time to tour the factory. Any information on the theater seating would be greatly appreciated.

I have a 37GT that came with a couch, recliner/fold out bed it was a nice couch but not very comfortable, so I took it out and installed a couch made for a house with electric recliners and center cup holders plus it fits me Im 6'3". Sold the old couch on craigslist and paid for most of the new couch. If you do this make sure the couch will come apart and fit through the door.

We restuffed the pillows on the couch that came with our KT. Bought the right size and firmness pillows at Bed, Bath and Beyond. It is much more comfortable now.

Sounds like you didn't have to use a chain saw to get the old couch out the door! I want to do the same, but wondered if the couch would fold out and go through the door. Also wondering if the replacement couch was a Lazyboy or some other brand that the back would come off to help getting it in the door. I would appreciate seeing pictures of your new furnishings ! Thanks.

I would also be interested in photos, if possible, and any information on the make & model of the recliners.

All I did was measure the length width and height of the area (don't forget the curtains stick out away from the wall) and went to the local furniture dealer and told him what I was going to do (he had done this before to my luck). We measured a lot of couches until we found the one that would fit (it was the first one we looked at of course). It did come apart in several pieces 5 I believe. The color is a close match and is very comfortable. The dealer help me take it apart and get it in the MH (we had it delivered) then I did the rest. I did screw it to the floor and it is farther away from the wall so it will recline and miss the curtains. The old couch came apart in several pieces and out the door just fine. It does recline all the way and has a place for the remotes. I saw several of these type of couches at different furniture dealers. Hope this helps I sold the old couch for 750.00 and paid just under 1000.00 for the new one.

Still trying to figure out the forum. I hope the pics come this time!!!

Yes, three pix. Very nice!

Thor 37GT - question about seat height on your new couch. Did you do anything to compensate for slide floor height. Our slide floor is 4 inches above main floor. Everything I have looked at raises level of seat so high that entry exit seems like it would be a problem. BTW looks great and is exactly what I want to do.

My Thor support experiance
 

Cable broke on big slide. Called support and was talking to a tech in minutes. Explained problem and he proceeded to tell me how to locate and unhook controller and with two people push slide in!!!! Realized he was talking about Schwintech slide. Once more it is a cable slide. He starts talking about hydraulic slides. Once more - this is a cable slide. OK you can call a mobile RV tech and if he can fix it in one hour - Thor will pay. Explained that just getting wood trim off without damage is over an hour. At this point I should have asked to speak to a different tech - in frustration I just gave up and told him I would handle it. Maybe I should not have called on Friday?

This is the one thing I never thought of, but it has also not been a problem. I am 6'3 and the DW is 5'1 and we haven't had a problem with it. You could take some blocks and put them under a chair to see if it will work for you. I measured the couch and the seat is 24" above the floor of the rv. Hope this helps we really like our couch over the stock it is a night and day type of thing.

I have gotten good techs and bad, both on the phone and at the service center. Thor's quality control in hiring techs is the same as it is in turning out new product, inconsistent. I would love to know if other MH companies do better or just the same.

Thanks for the photos and information. This is the next item on my to do list!

Be very careful removing the trim. It's not wood but compressed cardboard. I reinstalled the larger, wider sections with screws and used an electric brad nailer for the smaller trim pieces.

FYI for the Atwood hot water heater. I lost the hot water heater today for electric and gas . I done some searching online and found this youtube video and it is a thermal fuse out on the water heater . I replaced the thermal inline fuse and this solved the problem. I hope this will help someone.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u29Sl9j0TM4

Got the new unit Tuesday. Pleased so far. However, unit did not arrive as viewed on Thor's site. Some changes better, others not to my liking. They were minor, and no "deal breakers", but surprising. If I had a do over, I would have gone to the plant early on. Just a word to the wise.

What did you get? What did Thor change?

Cable Slides - I know many have had cables break. Thankfully I am not yet one of those. But today I did notice one of the four cables (front lower) was visibly slack, not fairly tight like the others. should I be concerned or do something? Thanks.

I am tired of the black streaks (I wash the roof twice a year) and AC water running down the side of the challenger. Has anyone installed gutters and drip extensions on the challenger ? If so what did you use ? I found the EZE gutters but it looks like they go around windows . I want something to go the whole length of the motor Home . I need something in Black .

Thanks
Bigdaddy51200

From install man.
When the room is seated full out, the OUTSIDE cables should be slack enough to move the cable
approximately ½” up or down (1” total movement) by hand. The holding power is actually on the
INSIDE cables pulling the standoff brackets tight against the frame.

When the room is seated full in, the INSIDE cables should be slack enough to move the cable
approximately ½” up or down (1” total movement) by hand. The holding power is now on the
OUTSIDE cables pulling the standoff brackets tight against the frame

I am convinced if we keep an eye on cables we can avoid total cable failure. Should you do something - IMO yes and do it before cable breaks.

See post 1778 6/29/15https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2626628

Thanks, But that only works for the AC run off , I also want to take of rain water to. I am tired of cleaning the black streaks caused from the rubber roof . I think I am going to look at the EZE gutter.

Outer Trim on Slide
 

Just when you think everything is fixed... I washed the coach and noticed a piece of the outer trim on the large slide was starting to separate from the slide.

This has never happened to me before and I'm not sure what caused it. Anyone have any ideas?

Also, I believe the trim is attached to the slide with 3M tape. Can anyone verify that for me? I have to repair this before our trip south in 4 weeks.

Chuck:

I am confused by your answer. At first you say a little slack on outside cables when slide is extended (my situation) is fine. Then you say I should do something about it. What am I misunderstanding?

You said ONE of the four was SLACK. I would bet that when slide is in - one inside cable - probably lower rear is slack. As I understand the cable system - tension should be about equal on all 8 cables (four pull in and 4 pull out.) If tension gets to far out of whack slide will not travel in or out square. At a minimum I would check ends of all eight cables for strand breaks - where they attach to slide and measure deflection/tension on all eight cables then call Thor. If it does need adjustment the most difficult part will be getting wood trim off and back on.

A'cond filters
 

Process of removing filter, washing, waiting for it to dry and reinstalling a PITA. Decided to buy a couple more filters so I could simply rotate them. Cheapest ones I could find were around $7.00 each. Problem solved found "FROST KING WINDOW AIR CONDITIONER FILTER WASHABLE AND REUSEABLE 15"X24"1/4" on Ebay for $5.00 and in one minute with a pair of scissors I now have three new filters.

kwikee steps problems
 

I had problem with the steps not coming out , CW installed a new control board about 2 weeks ago but they couldn't get them to work with the step switch, I had to unplug them while deployed to get them to stay out.

I was there yesterday for 10.5 hours for them to work on the steps again, replace the microwave , work on the awning, and repair a leak I thought was around the windshield. They only managed to get the microwave replaced, leaked repaired( around the maker lights) and to screw the steps up even worse. The steps wouldn't deploy at all and they didn't know how to fix them( they let me know this about 30 minutes before they closed ) to say I was pissed was understatement. I looked at the steps today and found they had no power , so I started looking for a popped fuse and found one under the hood. I replaced it and it immediately popped. So I opened up the switch and noticed there is three wires going to the switch that only has 2 prongs for wires . I figured out which one was the power and the ground. I hooked those up and the fuse held and the steps came back alive but the switch still won't make them stay deployed .
Could this be a bad switch ? Anyway to check ? what about the third wire ?

Look at wire route from door frame switch to where it goes under stairwell carpet. If it goes between door frame and door trimm - that needs to be fixed. Wire will be pinched between the metal pieces and either shorted or cut for open circuit. One of above results in steps won't extend and the other steps won't retract. See post 1680
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2506012
And 1788 for how I fixed it
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...50811-128.html

Thanks, but mine doesn't run under that metal piece . I checked that when you posted it a while back. Also the door switch was replaced also.

Try cutting door switch wires close to controller and see what happens when shorted together or open. If OK then wire damaged between switch and step control. If still have problem then there probably is a bad wire crimp at plug between wire and metal pin

Progressive Industies Surge Protector/EMS - Has anyone used these on their Challenger? If you hardwired it, how hard was it? How did you do it? If you use the portable, do you find it presents any problems, as in theft or weather issues?

I have the portable and it just saved me about two weeks ago. The park I was staying at got a large surge and many people lost things in thier coaches and it took the electric compnay 5 hours to restore power . I didn't have any issues and the product worked as designed . The only problem with the portable is remebering to use it . I plan on installing the hard wired version this winter to take care of that problem. There are youtube videos showing you how to install it . I plan on just cutting my cord , installing and mounting to the sidewall of the bay. Keep us posted if you do something else. I think Ctpres installed some type of surge guard in his 2015.

I don’t have one but Im getting one installed into my RV. My dealer has told me that the installed one can also protect your RV from its own Generator issues.

KC

Here are some install videos :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDKoccBlsbE

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OBtY49r2jU0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUI9o2B3FUA

Anybody know where transfer switch is on a 2014 37KT ? The power cord goes up into the floor, and that appears to be under the bed. Can anyone confirm this ?

See post 1358
https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2328021

Only reason I used that brand - it was a lot cheaper. Has done it's thing a couple times already do to low voltage and bad park power at our ped.

I have the portable one and have been using it for a few years without any problems. I bought it when I owned my previous coach and it saved that coach from electrical damage twice. It has saved my Challenger at least once in the past year.

I bought it because of the lifetime guarantee. I don't mind the portable one because I always use it and I plug it into the park power pedestal and check for problems before I plug in the coach. It found problems with the electrical service a few times so I notified the campground office and moved my coach to a different site.

It's weatherproof and I secure it to the electrical pedestal with a heavy duty cable lock. If it does get stolen someday, I'll probably replace it at that time with a hard wired one.

Would there be a way to remove the stock refrigerator from the 2016 coach? With just two of us, we don't need such a large fridge. Seems a smaller one but save energy both on shore power and battery...

I doubt it saves much money or power. I haven't done it, but it should be easy enough to switch. That is one of the selling points for residential refers.

I recently installed an ice maker in my 2013 KT. I removed both doors and moved the unit out of its space. Listed weight is 145 pounds and I was able to move it easily with the help of a friend. I'm sure that with the doors off, it will fit through the entry door with no problem. Good luck.

Camping World installed new Kwikie steps under warranty. When I arrived at our park I discovered the steps wouldn't stay out when the "Step" button was pressed. I spent a lot of time on the phone with Lippert and discovered I had the wrong door magnet - I don't think Camping World used the one shipped with the new unit - of course they couldn't find the it! Lippert sent a new one to me and I scheduled another appointment at Camping World to install. I also gave a manual to Camping World for reference. I wanted them to fix the problem. The motor has to be matched with the door magnet. The steps work fine now.

Papa D

Ice Maker for 2013 kt
 

Which ice maker did you install and where did you buy it. I have a 2014 KT and have not had much luck finding the ice maker for the whirlpool fridge.

I bought mine on Amazon for around $70. There is currently one listed for $69.88 with free shipping -- model 24ECKMF. Good luck! Here's the link to Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=sr_1_4&sr=8-4

Replacing broken ladder on 2014.5 Challenger KT - So like many others with the dumb ladder design that extends below the MH body, we broke ours bottoming out into a gas station. Good news is the manufacturer will custom make one for us 6 inches shorter for not too much more $$ than the exact replacement. I don't want to drive to Elkhart for this, and hope to install the swap myself. I am hoping to re-use the existing legs that attach the ladder to the MH so as not to have to reseal a bunch of connections. But the ladder connects direct to the roof at the top. It came from the factory all covered in some kind of roofing cement or caulk at those two connection points. What product is best to use in place of that cement or caulk covering?

How hard is it to winterize ? I normaly only use the pink stuff in the drains and blow out the lines .

Last chance for wty work
 

Took our one year old baby in to CW Katy TX for two final wty items: Slide cable broke for second time and windshield trim came out for third time. I could fix both but due to problems expected putting slide wood trim back on like new I decided to let CW try. Will let y'all know how it turns out. CW completion est 2-3 weeks.

Good luck with CW! I will never step foot in one again after my last 2 trips in for service. I found another dealer that takes my extended warranty and I will be using them.

House Batteries Question - I am getting a build-up of white powdery stuff on the metal clamp that attaches the nylon strap that holds the two house batteries in place. I gather this means my batteries are overcharging (they are plugged into 50 amp in the garage). Don't Challengers have a smart charger that is supposed to avoid this?

Best thing you can do at this point read voltage at battery terminals. If you don't have a multi meter - time to get one and learn how to use it. I think your inverter display will tell you bat voltage. Our coach in shop so I can't verify that. I don't think what you are seeing is positively a result of over charging.