Spent a good chunk of yesterday ripping out the sofa bed from our 37KT:

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...11cd2d7ce7.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...1a71c510d4.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...e056fdcd72.jpg

Note the notches in each side of the slide that accommodated the arms of the sofa.

Those things running across the slide floor to the wall in the third pic are the electrical and coax cables. I didn't have a chance to look more closely yet to figure out why Thor would have run them right up through the middle of the floor, but that's a bit of a head scratcher at first glance. I'd like to be able to just route them under the floor, but I suspect that would involve an unpleasant amount of work.

The alternative may be to lay down some 1x2's as a support frame and then lay some plywood over them to support the chairs, extending the width to cover the notches (since the theater seats from Camping World will fill in the entire width of the slide), and extending the depth another 6" or so to accommodate the seats (they're 35" deep; the slide is 29").

Lastly, note the bolt sticking up out of the slide floor near the center of the left wall panel. That's one of the four bolts securing the seat belts, which I removed. Unfortunately, this one is stuck in the aluminum plate on the bottom of the slide that protects it from one of the rollers. In trying to pound the thing out, I popped out one of the screws (well, the head broke off) that holds in the plate - have to get a small pry par with a sharp edge to get that sucker out, then replace the screw.

Recliners
 

Webman - been studying same project for almost a year now. Note that slide floor is about four inches higher that main floor. If seat height of the new one is 22 inches - that means seat will be 26 inches above floor. For some vertically challenged that could be a problem. I have only found a couple recliners that I THINK will work. That four inch rise is the only reason I am not doing the same project yet. The Lambright Lazy Relaxor is my best pick so far. It has a low seat. It has swivel base that can be removed (seat lower yet) leaving two rails that should not interfere with the cables. If I decide to keep the swivel I figure the round base can be notched and a connector added over the notch allowing cables stay where they are. You have a very big mod list. Keep us posted with lots of pictures.

Yes, the height of the slide was a bit disconcerting - I wasn't expecting that. But I only hesitated for about 30 seconds before I muttered to myself "Burn the ships" and pulled out the sofa: the thing was so wretchedly uncomfortable that I'd literally be happier with bean bags!

I guess there's not too much to be done about the height, but for the most part that would really only be an issue for getting in and out of the chair (which I know for some isn't to be taken lightly). On the other hand, I guess it wouldn't be too much of a hassle to have some sort of little removable step sort of thing at the front of the slide.

I also like those recliners you pointed out - they look like they'd be nice! In fact, the Lazy Relaxor Lite says it's 2" shorter seat height. I also like the optional foldup table - that would be nice. Am going to give those some serious thought, especially since we'd likely be able to get them in time for the trip and not have to worry about a backorder. Would still need to do something with the slide floor, or at least the edges where the notches are: they're very rough cut with metal edges. Hmmm...

I've been using the large Hosspads (Hosspad Jack and Leveling Pads - Motorcoach, 2-Pack - Bsrm H MOTORCOACH - Chocks & Levelers - Camping World) for the past two years and they still look new. They're made out of old tires and are 11-1/2" square and 1" thick. They've been great on all surfaces.

The new SnapPads (https://rvsnappad.com/) are also made from old tires. They're 11" in diameter and about 2" thick. They seem just as sturdy as the Hosspads and they have a 2 year warranty. I believe they'll last a long time.

As previously stated, no more getting down on hands and knees to set the pads or to retrieve them when leaving the campground or resort.

I've also had this mod on my list for the past year. The sofa is just too uncomfortable to use on a daily basis. I've got to replace it soon! Please let us know how it turns out!

Well, after looking at the different options for replacing the sofa and then getting back in the RV and looking at the passenger side slide (again, this is a 2014.5 37KT), I've decided to stick with "Plan A," which is to replace it with the recliners and center console from CW. The height of the slide floor is more than I'd like, but it's not really *that* high, at least for my wife and me (although if you have mobility issues, that could be a different story). And you only have to worry about it when you get in and out, so just get a running start getting in, and be prepared to roll when getting out. :D And if the recliners don't get here before we leave, I'll already have the platform installed, anyway, and just get a couple cheap but comfy chairs from Ikea that I can repurpose later.

Seriously, the Lazy Relaxor recliners would be an excellent option, but they would be quite a few more $$ than the recliners from CW, which we got on sale. Also, I asked about removing the swivel ring, and the customer rep who replied said the ring was *not* removable. It clearly is, because you can see the bolt in the pic, but take that for what it's worth.

Anyway, we'll know more on that score tomorrow when the center console is delivered (apparently the right and left recliners are backordered, but they had the console), along with a bunch of other parts. That will at least allow me to figure out what size I'll need to make the slide floor that I'll put over the existing one to make a stable platform for the recliners.

Two small things I got done today:

1. Replaced the burned out lights over the dining table with LEDs (click here for Amazon page). For anyone else who may have to wrestle with these stupid things, to remove the old lights you have to gently but firmly press the bulb into the socket, then turn counterclockwise. To install the new LEDs, insert gently but firmly and turn clockwise until they lock in place. NOTE: the LED lights only work in one orientation. So if yours doesn't light up, just remove it, turn the bulb 180 degrees, and insert again.

2. Replaced the original porch light with a Starlights SL-1000 Smart Light motion sensor light (click here for Amazon page). I hate having to fumble with keys when coming back to the rig after dark, and this should solve that problem. The only downside is that the original light is shaped sort of like an acorn, and Thor painted it after the light fixture was installed, so there's a patch of the white base coat underneath that the SL-1000 doesn't cover. It looks sort of crappy (as does the silicone caulk in the picture - the side of the rig was so hot that the stuff started curing on contact, and I can't apply caulk any better than a spastic 5 year old, anyway), but it's functional. I'll figure out how to make it look better later.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...1cdb7f6695.jpg

BTW, if you're wondering about that funky patterning in the upper side of the rig, that's the legacy of our trip to Vermont, where our entire coach was covered front to back (along with our Jeep) in yellow road paint that was laid down just before a heavy rain. The entire rig had to be buffed off, as did the Jeep (which also had to have all the exterior black plastic parts replaced, because they couldn't get the paint off them). Oy!

LG WM3477HW 2.3 Cu. Ft. 24" Compact Washer/Dryer Combo
 

We took delivery of our new 2016 Challenger 37KT. Now time to make it our own. One of the first things that we want to do is add a washer/dryer. Have been Looking for a stackable separate units but doesn't seem to be many available at this time so we are thinking about the LG WM3477HW 2.3 Cu. Ft. 24" Compact Washer/Dryer Combo. Was just wanting to hear any thoughts good and bad about this unit or any other recommendations any of you might have on the washer/dryer subject. Thanks

We have a combo unit, I believe a Splendide, in our coach. We liked it so much we got a larger LG unit for the house. The only major downside is that the combo units take a long time to dry. Also, while they can be installed in a ventless configuration, I suggest you vent it to minimize the heat buildup in the cabinet; in our coach the W/D cabinet is also the pantry, with three shelves above the washer, and we didn't want things getting too warm.

We have used a combo unit and now have a stackable unit. We like the stackable far better. Ours work just like at the s&b, except for a smaller load. The combo had two flaws for us; 1) the clothes took way too long to dry, 2) the clothes came out wrinkled and twisted together. If you have the choice, I recommend the stackable... Either are better than the Laundromat...

I posted this last year but I'll repeat since this thread is current. If you want recliners go ahead. But a much easier fix for the uncomfortable couch is to replace the pillows the rear cushions are stuffed with with new and firmer pillows. DW got ones from Bed Bath and Beyond, replaced them, and the couch is now perfectly comfortable. Just sayin.

For us the really uncomfortable part isn't the back cushions, but the seat. Maybe you have a different sofa; ours is the fold out sofa bed that comes with an air mattress, and the seat "cushions" are total butt breakers, especially after a year or so of use. And being able to recline and kick our feet up a bit is a luxury we've gotten used to after getting a loveseat recliner for our bedroom at home (necessitated by a medical procedure my wife had a couple years back). Of course, we have to hope now that CW will deliver the backordered chairs before we leave, LOL! If not, we'll be picking up a couple cheap but comfy chairs from Ikea...

I think couch is very comfortable and mattress in bedroom is too. Not sure what to do about it. Thought about buying a 3 inch foam to put on top of bed mattress. Need the sofa bed couch for when we have company.

We got a 3" memory foam topper for the original mattress, which helped somewhat, but not much. To replace it I bought a California King (72" wide x 84" long) memory foam mattress that was on sale that had good reviews. Tomorrow one of my projects is to cut it to length - probably around 78", or as long as I can make it without it scrunching up against the bedroom cabinets when the slide is in - with an electric knife. That should be interesting...

As for having company, we still have the drop-down bed over the driver/passenger seats, and we can always throw down an air mattress in the living room if necessary. ;)

I agree. We installed the recliner sofa from CW. What a difference!

We have the same couch. You might try the fuller pillows in the seat cushions. I realize you have already started down this road, but if CW doesn't deliver on time for example, pillows might be all you need, at least temporarily.

I also prefer a recliner to a chair or sofa. I'd like to know if anyone on this forum has the recliner seating in the 2016 Challenger 37KT? If so, is it comfortable? I'd like to find out the make & model of the factory recliner!

Can you tell us the make & model number?

This is the recliner sofa that came in our 2016 Hurricane 35C... we love it!


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I find that I sit more in the middle of couch and I sink in between the cushions! I got a foot stool to put my feet up on, but I'm miserable and trying to sleep on it while my husband drives all day long, is so uncomfortable! It's not wide enough! Every time he makes a turn I feel I'm going to fall on floor��

That's what I hoped to hear! Unfortunately, ours are backordered. I'm just hoping they'll get here before we leave on our trip. But if not, we'll make do and install them when we get back!

I figuratively put the old sofa-bed to the torch: the junk guys came and hauled the pieces away this afternoon, along with the wretched mattress and all the debris from the bedroom in the house I just got done renovating. Freed up a lot of room in the front of the coach to start in on the A/V mods I've got planned!

That's pretty much how my wife felt, as she typically spent more time on the couch - I couldn't stand it to the point that I almost always sat in the passenger seat (while parked, of course), which we spin around when we're parked. But it was really hard on her tailbone, which isn't good, as she's had some medical problems over the years after an accident when she was a kid.

Oh, by the way, here is the link for the Camping World recliners we ordered. You'll need to order a right hand and left hand recliner, and there's also an optional center console. Also please note that the color (a light tan/beige) of the examples shown on the product pages is NOT accurate; click on the color swatch in the "more images" section to get a better idea of what "Beckham Tan" actually looks like. They also offer a one in a slightly different style in walnut.

Speaking of center consoles, the pic below shows ours - the chairs are yet to be shipped - set on the slide (which is retracted in this pic) to give an idea of how far out I'll have to make the add-on slide floor. Also, on the issue of seat height, unless the chair seats are a lot higher than I suspect, I don't think that's going to be a problem. In fact, for folks who have mobility issues, it might actually be a bit better, because you don't have to sit down so far (and then get up/out). But we'll see when the chairs arrive.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...45afca072d.jpg

A few other things I puttered with today.

1. Trimming the bed down to length. As I mentioned earlier, we ordered a California King (72W x 84L) memory foam mattress from Wayfair. After letting it expand for a day or so, I took after it today with an electric knife like you use to carve a turkey, trimming it down to 78" long. With the main slide closed on our 37KT, the cabinets opposite the foot of the bed just press against the foam. Once I have the cloth wrapper sewn closed and zip shut the cover, I'll flip it around and put the cut end at the head.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...2e841b2aa3.jpg

2. Replaced the original bathroom register that brings in warm air with one that allows you to control the flow. Hot air just blasted into the bathroom through that thing, so hopefully the control vanes will keep it from becoming a hotbox and spread some of the heat to the other areas of the coach.

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3. I removed the fill-in panel behind the main TV, resulting in that big open space you see here. My plan is to replace it with 3/4" plywood and cover up the open hole below it, as well. We'll pretty it up by adding a 1/4" plywood square covered with black felt or speaker fabric that will cover that whole section except for a 3" or so "frame" of the original wood, then I'll mount the TV over top of that and hang the sound bar below it.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...2215487bbe.jpg

4. The following diagram shows how I'm setting up our A/V system. Thick black lines are existing coax for park cable only. Thin lines are HDMI. Hollow lines are wireless HDMI broadcasts from an IOGear Matrix Pro. Note that the HDMI splitter from the Dish receiver to the Matrix Pro is required to eliminate problems with HDCP copy protection with some programming (and no, this isn't "hacking" anything, just making sure that you can actually watch the content you already payed for when retransmitting it via the Matrix Pro). Some may notice that I don't have any provision for bringing in on-air TV from the antenna on the roof; that's because I'm going to steal that cable for the directional antenna for our cell booster system.

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Webman. Re recliner install. Part of my thinking is that maybe I can move recliner closer to wall by making top of shelf and out TV cabinet thinner. Chair back angles in recline mode and I am thinking I can get a couple inches by moding top of cabinet. Every inch counts and we have no use for cup holder or the shelf.
Re TV hole. What about hinging the cover you are building. Maybe storage shelves for DVD games etc. And easy access for service and future changes

Okay, that clicked, and I just kicked your idea around with the DW. Unless I see a non-starter, I think I'm just going to tear out that cabinet behind the sofa. Its only purpose is as an internal conceal for the external TV, 120V socket, and a few wires. So if we ditch the cabinet, that will, as you noted, make more room for the recliners and reduce the distance they stick out into the living area.

Also, I'd like to be able to mount the external TV on some sort of articulating arm (this is one I've been looking at) so we can adjust it to a position that's comfortable to watch. But the catch has been that those mounts require between 4-6" of space behind the TV, and that obviously won't fit in the existing TV enclosure. So I may just rip that out, too, and figure a way to mount the TV on an arm like that (and a way to secure the TV safely for travel). I may or may not bother making an inside enclosure, because all that will be hidden down low behind the recliners, anyway; even now, as it is from the factory, there's a big open hole behind the TV in the cabinet. The only time we'd have the TV out is when we're at the rig, so any time we're not and the TV is stowed, the outer door would be closed/locked and the interior would be weather tight and secure.

You just hit on what I've been thinking about this morning. I really don't like the idea of permanently affixing the new "wall cover" (not sure what else to call it) to the cabinet that holds the main TV. The big downside to the hinge idea is that I'm not sure if there'd be much swing clearance to get into the cabinet, and the wood the cabinet is made of isn't the sturdiest stuff in the world. Our TV is 39" wide, and it runs edge to edge across the width of the cabinet face.

Actually, the more I think about it, the more I'm leaning toward just removing the TV cabinet altogether and mounting the TV to the top of the desk on a fixed mount (probably with some reinforcement added beneath the desk top). Morryde has a desktop mount that would work.

Anyway, we're going to go over to the rig after bit to take a look see...

TV cabinet removed. Going to experiment with an articulating corner mount to see if that works. Note that the TV will be mounted roughly 6" from the desk top with a new Vizio sound bar beneath it. On the wall behind and above we're planning on mounting a panoramic photo from one of our trips, with a soft light behind the TV illuminating it. So, we'll see how all that turns out.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...359e810c34.jpg

Cabinet behind the former sofa bed removed, which will allow the recliners to get a few inches closer to the wall and save some space. I've got some ideas on how to get an articulating mount installed for the outside TV, but need to wait until the recliners arrive (they've been shipped!) so I can see exactly how much space I've got to work with. Time to rough in the platform they'll be sitting on...

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...19575e7178.jpg

Webman - hate to add to your work but - think about the two outlets under the cabinets. We find they produce an ugly bunch of wire hanging down to powered items on shelf, floor lamp, heater on floor etc. I have plans to add one or two outles down low. From pic looks like window side valance might be eating up a couple recline inches. Our 15 KT came without side valance for rear window. Lyonsl solved the problem see post 1370. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...150811-98.html DW made some of fabric that velcroed to top and were held at bottom with a plastic arm thru pocket in the bottom. https://tweetys.com/side-curtain-hold-down.aspxI like your thinking. Keep the ideas and pic's coming.

Do you mean the outlets inside the cabinet to the right of the fireplace? If so, I agree those probably could have been positioned better (with one low on the outside of the cabinet somewhere - that would've been nice), but I don't think are an issue in this case. I'm not sure yet what I'm going to plug in where, but I'll probably put some of the lower amp stuff (like the powered HDMI splitters and IOGear wireless HDMI transmitter) into a power strip and plug that into one of the outlets in the cabinet, but secure the power strip itself and other low/no maintenance bits behind the fireplace (which is actually very easy to remove once you know how). Then it'll just be the TV, VIP612 Dish receiver, and the Blue-Ray player (and possibly the PS4 if I decide to take it) plugged into those receptacles.

Oh, that reminds me: I'm not sure about your model (ours is a 2014.5 KT), but just an FYI. One of the outlets in the right side cabinet says something about the fireplace (like it needs a special circuit or something; I'm not at the rig now and can't remember, but it's a red and white sticker), which sort of leads you to believe that the outlet it's next to is for the fireplace/heater. In fact, the fireplace is plugged into yet another outlet box at the back of the cavity the fireplace is mounted in. The subwoofer for the sound bar was also mounted in there, right on top of 120V cables and one of the junction boxes. No wonder we kept getting interference on the audio, LOL! But it was plugged into the receptacle next to the fireplace/heater sticker. Go figure...

And one last mod idea for that cabinet: I'm going to install a small fan (a pair, one high and one low, more likely) to draw air across the Dish receiver and/or PS4 if I take it. I'll mount them toward the rear of the cabinet and vent them into the heater space, and just probably leave them on at a moderate speed whenever we're on shore power (as we wouldn't have the receiver or PS4 on otherwise).

Yeah, I addressed the valence issue with CINC-HOUSE, indicating we could get some extra space (depending on clearance to the exterior TV enclosure) if we ditched the valences, but she wants to keep them. Will show her Lyonsl's post to see what she thinks. But I think it probably won't be much of a problem. I figure that by ditching that cabinet I gained around 4" or so even if we keep the valences.

Okay, once I'm done with my Costco hot dog I'll be heading over to the rig. Today's projects: install the Weboost 4G RV and directional antenna, and if I survive that try I'm going to take a crack at adding twin coax leads to the bottom of the driver side slide so I can get dual inputs from our Pathway X2 antenna into the VIP612 receiver...

Webman re "Do you mean the outlets inside the cabinet to the right of the fireplace?" No. Sorry our KT has two outlets in curb slide that are mounted under the cabinets. Anything plugged in leaves wire hanging down along sides of window.
Re fireplace outlet. One outlet is not on the inverter and that one is just for the fireplace. Ours came with fireplace on inverter. I just moved it to the dedicated single plugin outlet. All the others should be on the inverter.

Ah! Gotcha. I think ours is the same, but we hardly ever use those outlets. But I agree that they're not exactly in the best spot!

Okay, I'll have to check that. All the receptacles in ours are double sockets, but I'll double check which isn't on the inverter and make sure the fireplace is plugged into that one.

Today's project was installing the Weboost RV 4G cell booster. Since my business relies entirely on the web, having decent internet connectivity is particularly important to us while we're doing our gypsy thing. As I'm sure you all are painfully aware, most RV park wifi networks are terrible, so we usually wind up relying mostly or entirely on our Verizon 4G/LTE. Of course, that has its downside, because the walls of the coach are blocking a lot of the signal, often reducing speed to a crawl. Thus, my decision to invest in a cell booster.

After a lot of hemming and hawing, I settled on the Weboost RV 4G. There are other units that I'm sure would work as well, but this just happens to be the one I chose. I also decided to get a different (enclosed yagi directional) external antenna, and I'm glad I did. While I'm satisfied (thus far) that the unit will do what it's supposed to do, the included outdoor antenna is crap. Or, at least, the enclosure is crap, as I haven't tested the antenna itself. The front face of the thing just snaps on - and off - but doesn't have enough mojo to hold together under the slightest stress. Just sticking it into the included mount caused the enclosure face to pop off. Not cool. I'll be sending Weboost a note about that.

Like other typical cell booster systems, this has an external antenna (which I replaced with a directional antenna), which gets your signal to/from the cell tower, the booster unit itself, and an internal antenna that gets the signal to/from your phone inside the coach. I mounted the directional antenna on the TV mast, pirating the RG6 cable that would otherwise have fed on-air TV into the coach. I'll try to remember to post a close-up pic later; you'd think that in half a dozen trips up/down the ladder I would've remembered to take my iPhone for a pic, but, well, senility. I just drilled a couple holes through the trailing bar of the mast and attached the antenna by its included mount with some stainless steel bolts. However, the washers I used weren't nearly big enough, so during another trip to the big box store I'll be getting some bigger ones. And *don't* over tighten the bolts: that antenna mast is made of perilously thin stuff, and it'll just compress on you.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...984f7849f5.jpg

That part was pretty easy, if stinking hot here in Florida at mid-day. Then it was time to find a spot for the booster unit and internal antenna in reach of a coax port and power...and far enough away from the outside antenna that interference wouldn't be a problem.

This is the biggest bugaboo with cell boosters, and the reason why so many people have problems with them. The outside antenna has to be far enough away from both the booster and inside antenna that they don't interfere with one another; the booster has to be a certain distance from the inside antenna for the same reason, and the antennas should never face each other. The only option that sort of gets around some of this is the cradle mount type booster, but I opted to steer clear of those because they can get up to 150 degrees (!). I have an iPhone 6+, and it doesn't like heat.

Anyway, I decided to pirate the coax cable going to the rear TV; the coax for the TVs now will only support park cable, anyway, which we almost never use, so it wasn’t much of a loss. Also, the cabinet the bedroom TV is mounted on is, in our coach, never used, as it’s a bit of an odd space. But it has everything necessary: a coax feed, power, enough space to separate out the booster and inside antenna, and is totally out of sight. The pic below shows the booster on the left where the coax comes in (I took the coax from the TV antenna, which in our coach is a brown cable, and used a joiner to screw it together with the coax that goes to the bedroom TV), and you can just see the inside antenna poking out on the right side. That antenna is pointing to the back of the coach, away from the outside antenna and the booster. Things are still messy because I haven’t tidied up the cables and secured everything yet. My iPhone would go just a few inches to the right of the antenna, sort of in the middle of where the right cabinet door is.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...34bffbcbb0.jpg

Now, if you’re wondering about connecting via wifi to your phone or hotspot and having it all the way at the back of the coach while you’re using your computer up forward, I’ll show you what my plan is for that later. :-)

Anyway, the results of all this messing around: standing well clear of the coach and other obstructions in our RV storage lot, I was getting three bars/dots on my phone, which was talking to a cell tower about 330m away (I know that from the Open Signal app on my phone - awesome app!). Inside the coach, with no boost, I got two. Turning on the booster and putting my phone in the cabinet close to the indoor antenna, I got…four! Dots/bars are really very general indicators, but four is a heck of a lot better than two.

The one gotcha is that if the cell tower is somewhere behind the coach and you have to point the outside antenna rearward, it will likely cause some interference with the inside antenna. I turned the external antenna to face the rear of the coach, and one of the LEDs on the booster went from green to flashing red, meaning it was experience some feedback, if you will, in that signal band. I’ll putter around later with ideas to put up a better “fence” to further isolate the two antennas, but I’m happy with it for now.

I have had it !!
 

I keep the roof clean, MH waxed but I still get black streaks from AC and rain. Has anyone installed a gutter system to help with this issue . I am looking at this :
https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Prod...=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Please share your thoughts , I know I can't be the only one having this problem.

Thanks

I was actually going to look into the same thing. Will be interested to hear what anyone has to say on these...

Good news and bad news today on the ongoing project list.

Bad news first: it turns out the VIP612 Dish receiver is *not* compatible with the Pathway X2 (rats, thought I'd checked on that before I ordered it), so I'll be sending that back. A slight disappointment, but not a disaster. So instead of having one unit, I'll put back the VIP211K that we had in there and add the VIP211Z that we've had in a closet for a while, so we can watch one program and record another at the same time (doesn't seem like it should happen a lot, but it does, LOL).

Good news:

1. Getting two RG6 cables into the TV cabinet for the satellite receivers turned out to be easy-peasy. The cable run for that cabinet comes up through the floor on the right side from the forward most basement compartment. I just had to poke the cables through the foam sealant and - presto! - done. Then you just zip tie them to the existing cable run and run them into the cabinet, again, following the cable run, and they come out in the space behind the fireplace.

2. The IOGear Matrix Pro worked great to get HDMI to the TVs. I still have to play around with them more, but if I understand the instructions correctly, you can choose any source for any of the TVs, so you can watch (should you so desire) different things on different TVs. If you use more than one receiver, though, just make sure you go through the pairing process to match the additional receivers to the transmitter.

3. A bonus win for the Weboost RV 4G cell booster + directional antenna mounted to the TV mast: even when it's retracted (the antenna is pointing up like a shark fin, vs. out where it can point at a cell tower), I'm still getting 4 bars vs. 2...

Young Family hitting the road!
 

First of all, I'd like to say thank you to the long list of people that have contributed to this thread!

My Wife, 4-year old son, and I have made the decision to explore the country full time... and after much research... we've decided on a 2017 Thor Challenger 37KT. The separate room layout is awesome! We ordered a few weeks ago, and should be accepting delivery early July.

That being said, I welcome any advice you would give a young family hitting the road... and also what MOD's are a must have!

I know I'll need a WiFi/Cell Booster to stay connected with my career, I'm looking at the PDQ Connect One Source system.

Thanks again everyone, and looking forward to future conversations!

Welcome aboard Danny and Congrats on the new RV, we love our KT and the layout.

Our unit is newer as well to this point I bought a Progressive EMS system to protect my electrical system. Mine is hardwired.

We also us plastic/rubber tubs to keep water stuff and sewers stuff in, they work well.

I would also suggest going over the Motorhome Magazine to see what you can tow behind your Challenger and get a set up for a Dingy towed. You have around 4k you can tow.

KC

Well, you guys convinced me. I ordered the Heritage tan recliners & center consol from Camping World on Friday and they were just delivered this morning! Faster than I anticipated.

Hope to remove the sofa today or tomorrow and install the recliners a.s.a.p.

I'll keep you posted with any problems / solutions & pics.

I also have the same problem. I had our coach professionally cleaned & waxed while we were in Florida this past winter. The guys did an excellent job and gave me some advice concerning the black streaks. They said the streaking is caused by the rubber roof and told me to use "Mop & Glo" on the roof twice a year and that would solve the streaking problem. I haven't tried it yet and would want to get advice from others before applying it but it could be a solution!?!

Congrats on the new coach & welcome to the forums!

We're not full timers but we travel a lot and live in the coach about 7 months during the year. The more we use it, the more mods we make! You will probably do the same.

Hope you enjoy the coach and the new life style!

DannyHVAC - If you have not already done so - highly recommend reading this thread from day one. There is a wealth of information. As to early mods, I think it best if you use it for a while before jumping on the mod wagon. Keep a list of the interesting ones and be sure it is right for your family before making any changes. Research PDI and know how to test everything BEFORE you sign. Amazing how fast things get fixed during delivery process. Spend first couple days exploring and learning all about your new house on wheels. Open all cabinets, compartments and drawers to see what's in or behind them. Keep a by location list of modules, fuses, tanks, valves etc. Once you start loading her up such things will be much harder to find. Welcome the the Challenger owners thread. Tell us what you like and don't like and take pictures. Questions? Don't hessitate to ask us.

Glad to see someone else aware of the 4k limit on what you can tow and carry on board. This rig can sure pull something a lot heavier, but is it a good (safe) idea ?

Thanks KC-
I've added surge protector to my list.

And as far as towing, we will be dinghy towing my wife's 2007 Mini Cooper Convertible. I know BMW and Motorhome Magazine do not really "approve", but several mfgrs make the base plate and I've read about many others towing Mini's successfully. And its only 2800lbs.

ctpres-
I looked up a bunch of info about PDI last night, thank you. I feel much better prepared now.

[QUOTE=DannyHVAC;3050982My Wife, 4-year old son, and I have made the decision to explore the country full time... and after much research... we've decided on a 2017 Thor Challenger 37KT. The separate room layout is awesome! We ordered a few weeks ago, and should be accepting delivery early July.[/QUOTE]

Congrats! We love our 37KT - looking forward to the time when we can full-time in it. And you've come to the right place for info/ideas... :-)

The recliners from CW arrived today, and boy do they look nice! Seem to be very well made and infinitely more comfortable (from our quick sit test in the living room) than the old sofa bed. Now I just have to wrestle them into the rig and get them installed, along with the center console. Will post pics as I go, but I first want to get the main TV remounted. Unfortunately, no work on the coach today - had to hang around for the freight delivery guy because it's been raining cats and dogs here in Sarasota and I didn't want the chairs to get soaked.

At this point, the major projects I have on my list are:

- Main TV reinstall
- Recliner install
- Set up the second bin on curb side (nearest entry door) to accommodate a litter box and make a kitty door in the stair well
- Install the interior/exterior wifi system
- Build slide/drawers for some of the basement compartments
- Cheap Handling Fix

There are numerous other smaller things (like installing a Harbor Freight air hose reel as a cord reel, as one example), but those are the major ones. I've only got 31 days before we leave for Yellowstone!

The Mini sounds like a good choice !
:):)

2015 Challenger 35 HT:House Battery Upgrade
 

Hey everyone I am in the process of upgrading my batteries. I spend at least 20 weekends a year at a variety of Motocross tracks, which have no hookups. I also do some trips to the Glamis, Ocotillo Wells and again no hookups. With the supplied 2 6v wet cell batteries to power the Residential Fridge, i am limited to how long I can dry camp.

I did a good amount of research and found a great AGM 6v GC-2 battery with a price that is not to crazy. $184 each if 4 ordered. Also they don't require a core exchange for AGM.

2 Year Warranty
Voltage: 6 volt
Capacity: 210Ah
Maintenance Free
Absorbed Glass Mat Technology
CCA: 710A, CA: 855A
Reserve Capacity at 25A: 475 Minutes
Reserve Capacity at 75A: 124 Minutes
Terminal: Dual SAE and 5/16"" Stud

Amstron AP-GC2 Sealed Lead AGM Battery (6V 210Ah)

The AGM batteries dimensions are very close to OEM and will fit in the bay perfectly, just will need a longer ground cable and additional battery cables to put in series/parallel.

I am having 2/0 cables made up. If you need custom cables click on the link below. I have used this company previously and the cables great.
Note: 2/0 is not 2 gauge but 00 gauge which is larger the 2 gauge.

2 0 Gauge AWG Copper Battery Cable Marine Car Truck RV Solar Custom Made | eBay

I will give you an update as soon as I get the cables delivered and get them Installed. I will also add pics of my install so you can see the battery wiring.

More TV work today. Moved the old sound bar from the main TV to the bedroom TV. Have to hide the wires and reinforce the mounting (don't trust screws in the thin wood at the bottom of the cabinet), but at least it's off the floor!

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...fd6ea9d333.jpg

Remounted the main TV on a 3/4" plywood sheet with 1x3" supports. After a lot of pondering, I decided that I'm going to make a shelf at the top of the plywood, then extend the "new" cabinet using 1/2" plywood to the ceiling, then cut out a large door to make a cabinet/cubby above the TV. Then I'll probably cover the plywood with black speaker cloth or similar and mount a print of one of my panoramic shots on the new door.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...4aa2a260cc.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...b268efbdf7.jpg

But I'm going to wait on that until I get the recliners installed. Will start in on that tomorrow...

House battery charger
 

Do the winter stay at a well known RV dealer, it appears my house batteries are toast. Specific gravity is flat lined on all cells. In checking the battery charging, I have found that when engine is running I see over 13 volts across batteries. When shore power of 20 amps is applied, there appears to be no charging voltage across batteries. I thought the inverter was the charger for the batteries. A call to Thor indicated there is a charger in the 2015 Challenger. I checked the breaker and DC breaker and fuses and found no problem. I isolated one of the batteries and connected a battery charger to it and the charger breaker blew in about 3 min. So now I need to find the on board charger and see if there is a reset on the device, install new batteries and all will be good. Has anyone had any adventures with the battery charging system and can provide feedback?

If the battery store mode was selected the batteries would not be charged.
Did you check battery store switch located in stairwell? Don't remember exactly but think if battery control center/BCC is in store mode there must be something like 10.6 or more volts on house batteries before the relay will switch to use mode.

The converter and alternator charges the batteries depending if you are driving or plugged into shoreline. Check the 100 amp fuse in the battery bay. Press the red button then push the fuse in. There is also a 50 amp reset button on a grey small box in the BCC. This is located at the bottom left of the BCC. The BCC is located in the front right side (if you are facing the front of the coach) of the coach in the engine compartment. See attachments for BCC troubleshooting and diagram. Before trouble shooting disconnect the negative from the Chassis Battery See the troubleshooting guide to check voltages at certain points to verify voltage. If you are not getting 12v at the BCC before the disconnect there is a problem before the BCC. If you are handy with a voltmeter you can troubleshoot this.
Note: Troubleshoot at your own risk

Recliner installation
 

Here are some pics of test fitting one of recliners and center console we bought from Camping World for our 2014.5 37KT to replace the sofa bed. My only concern right now is whether I'll be able to both chairs and the console into the space. It *should* fit, but it's going to be awfully close. Worst case, we'll have to do without the console...

View with the slide in - plenty of walking room.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...6dab998322.jpg

View with the slide out.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...c3b40c3dd3.jpg

The full upright chair back is maybe 1.5-2" from the valence and roughly 6" from the wall. Note that this is with the chair just sitting on the floor on its feet. I need to add a support platform of 3/4" plywood under the frame (not the feet) that'll maybe raise it half an inch or so.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...8e6a2cab1d.jpg

Recliner put all the way back/extended, slide out. In this position the top of the back is roughly 1" from the wall and maybe the same from the top of the TV box, which I'm planning on removing this weekend so I can try and install an articulating mount for the TV. The front feet on the recliner frame are about 3" beyond the front edge of the slide.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...c37d19f5d0.jpg

A view of the clearance with the chair extended all the way.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...bcfdce2a81.jpg

A view of the slide looking forward so you can see the height/clearance involved. It's about 4" from the main floor to the top of the slide floor.
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...f7960c98ba.jpg

Does anyone have a CB radio mounted in their Challenger? I've got a Cobra from one of our former RVs and would like to install it in our 37KT, but can't decide where. Also, any tips on where to tie in to the 12V system and/or install an antenna? I was assuming a Firestik, but am open to suggestions...

Webman - looking good. Ideas - I was planning to use angle iron to support front legs, each piece would reach from back foot to front foot. Much thinner. As for cleaning up the cutout on slide floor. Looks like some mitered 1x4 nice wood to frame the cutout and cover the front. With a little luck it would stain to match cabinets. If top of the side window valances could be cut off a couple inches - raising the bottom - would that help? How about a charging station the the console storage?

Thanks! Can you explain your angle iron idea a bit more? I can't quite visualize what you mean.

I haven't decided yet what I'm going to do to pretty up the slide base edges, but the wood would certainly be an option and would be easy enough to do. I was also thinking of finding something like black lawn edging (just as an example) to make sort of a skirt around the edge.

I think I'm going to leave the valences alone at this point. With the recliners fully extended, the top of the back is about 1" from the slide wall, so I don't think there's any point in trying to move the recliner closer. But taking the wall cabinet out definitely gained a lot of space.

Webman - Angle iron. Maybe 1x1 and about 1/8" thick. Two pieces per chair and probably console. One end starts at rear foot and extends over the front edge far enough to support the front foot. Think rail that chairs would slide on twords the TV enclosure. One side of angle iron screwed or bolted to floor and the other standing vertical on outside edge of chair. Actually if front foot overhang not excessive maybe and 12 to 18" or so long piece would be enough. Dinner is served - will think some more.

Ahhh, okay. Gotcha. Something like this from HD, maybe? Okay, I'll toy with that. I think that would work as long as the chair rails stay "inside" the boundary of the floor, which they seem to be. Should also be able to secure the chair to the rail, at least in the front, with screws that go into the outer set of feet. Those are just attached to the front/rear rails; the inner feet have screws that actually help hold the bottom of the chairs together. If that doesn't fit, I suppose it's nothing that a drill and a few bolts can't fix... :)

Oh, one thing just struck me about the rail idea: the two sets of cables that run up from the middle of the slide floor will likely interfere with the inner rails. That's why I was thinking about the plywood platform to begin with, because the rails on the chair need to clear the cables. And, at least in our rig, there is NO slack in the cables to move them out of the way. But I'll double check when I go to the rig tomorrow...

Webman - For strength and looks I was thinking solid angle like this
Crown Bolt 1 in. x 72 in. Plain Steel Angle with 1/8 in. Thick-42050 - The Home Depot
The wire on floor may end up being biggest problem.
Only the aft end chair angle would show much - thin piece of wood trim would solve that.

Are you saying there was a recal on the fire extinguisher

Was hoping to get the recliners installed today, but my clever plans ran afoul of reality. After fiddling around quite a bit, I decided I'm going to have to go back to my original plan and lay down a plywood "over-floor" with cutouts for the cables that run up through the slide floor. I'll give that a try tomorrow.

But the good news is that the CW recliners and center console fit perfectly in the curb side slide of the 2014.5 37KT (width a tad over 68"). That was my biggest worry, because the dimensions were really close. I'd post a pic, but I'm having trouble pulling it over from my phone. The joys of technology...

Replacing the sofa with recliners & center console
 

Webman9113 & ctpres, I want to thank you for all of the postings and suggestions about replacing the sofa with recliners & a center console. It's been on my wish list since I bought the coach but I didn't have enough information to get it done.

I decided not to remove the cabinet behind the sofa and I also left 2 of the seat belts for possible future use. I decided to install 2 pieces of 3/4" X 24" X 24" plywood to mount the recliners on and it worked out great. I liked ctpres' suggestion to use angle iron but the plywood gave me the extra height that I needed to clear the electrical cables (which run under the center console).

I'm not finished with the project yet but the recliners are installed and we love them. I think I'm just going to install some wooden trim around the base and paint it black.

Although the recliners sit higher than the sofa did, it is very easy to get in & out of them. Since I did not remove the cabinet behind the sofa and I mounted the recliners on plywood, the seats are 3-1/2" higher and stick out into the living room an additional 7" compared to the sofa. That might seem like a lot but it is not that noticeable!

Also, the color of the recliners matches the piping on the driver & passenger captain's chairs. As a bonus, we now have some extra storage space behind the recliners and under them! It's a win-win for us.

LyonsL, looks awesome. Enjoy!!

Loft bunk stuck
 

I have a 2014 Thor Challenger 37GT. Spent the day getting it ready and ran into a big problem with the loft bunk. We where showing our little girl where she will be sleeping (this was actually one of the reasons we got it, she is just now big enough for it) came down great.

She played up there for a few minutes and we went to put it back up. It started to go back up and made it maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 of an inchwhen the passanger side just stopped. It seems like it has something jammed in there. We can then put it back down no problem.

Has anyone run into a problem like this? Ideas?I am going to work on it tomorrow. I was thinking about firt trying to pull the power from that side and see if I can push it up (barring any ideas from you good folks.)

If that does not work I will have to look at taking it apart. This is something I don't want to do, because while I can take things apart like a champ, my track record putting things back is spotty

That looks great! You wound up with something similar to what I'm planning to do. Question, though: how did you secure the chairs to the plywood or floor? I haven't quite figured that out yet... :-)

Not sure who you were addressing this to, but yes. Go to the fire extinguisher's manufacturer's website for information and a replacement.

The recliners are in! Thanks to LyonsL for the tip on the 2x2x3/4 plywood panels. That was sort of the direction I was moving in, anyway, but they had them precut at HD, so that made it easy. I had to cut out a channel in each one for the cables, then screwed the panels into the floor. Just as with LyonsL's, the chairs fit perfectly. I'm going to secure them with bolts in the front and hex head screws in the back, with 1/2" spacers between the wood and chair railing. I haven't done that yet, because I need to move them out of the way so I can fit the new outside TV mount (have to wait a few days on that, as I ordered the wrong one from Amazon and have to get the next larger size). I'm also planning to put the sound bar subwoofer behind the chairs to get a little rumble... ;-)

Platform panels...
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...9ab06a6c04.jpg

Recliners (slide out)...
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...fabb62919b.jpg

Recliners (slides in)...
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...bae534b90e.jpg

Please post a photo with both slides out:)

KC

Recliner
 

Where did you get the recliners and the cost?

Will do, next time I'm at the rig, which will be tomorrow, LOL! But there's LOTS of room with both slides out, even with the recliners full back/footrests out. We were using footstools with the old sofa bed, and I don't think the footrests are any farther out...

I got mine at Camping World on sale, from the Heritage collection, although they have others like these. :cool:

OK Webman - they look fantastic. The one burning question I have is, how high are the seats and are you having any difficulty getting in or out of recliners. Guess with that we need to know about how tall you and DW are. Again great looking. Bet you both are looking fwd to many comfy hours of reading, naping and TV viewing in the new recliners.

I didn't want to go back to the house, LOL!

They now sit higher than normal chairs, obviously. I'm 6' 1" and my feet dangle if I just sit on the edge of the chair. My wife is 5' 2" and hasn't had a chance to test sit, but obviously her feet will dangle farther.

However, that's only a potential issue getting in/out, and I would say only for someone who has mobility issues, regardless of height. Once you're in the chair and kick back, it's all good. :cool:

gavaman, Camping World has them on sale right now. They are the Heritage Beckham Tan recliners and center console. I highly recommend them!
Search - beckham - Camping World

ctpres, my factory sofa seat is 20-1/2" high. The new recliners are 24" high. I'm only 5'8" & the DW is 5'4" and we have no problem getting in or out of the recliners. Your feet will probably be off the floor when seated but if you simply lean forward you can stand easily.

Also, when both slides are out, I have 60" of space between the front of the recliners and the fireplace. Webman9113 removed the cabinet behind the sofa so he probably has 3 or 4" more.

Sorry for the late response but I see that you figured it out. I did the same and used #12 X 2" stainless steel hex screws in the back rails and bolts, washers & nuts in the front rails.

Thanks again for all of the posts!

LyonsL


Your recliners look great. It looks as if you did not modify the cup shelf nor the external TV enclosure. Will the recliners recline with the limited space? I think it is only 28" on ours 2015.


richbirk

Great minds think alike! :D

Today's project is (hopefully) installing the full motion mount for the exterior TV. I'm using an Omnimount Play20X. *Technically* I should probably use the 25X (the number representing the weight in pounds the mount can support with full motion), but the TV is right on the limit and I'm not really worried about the mount supporting it in anything but the full "down" position. That's where it would be any time it's opened up, because the factory mount position is just too high for comfortable viewing (at least for me). It would have been better if the TV at least tilted down, but there's not enough clearance inside the mounting box even for that.

So, today we'll get into a bit of metal cutting, as I'll have to remove a substantial portion of the back of the TV enclosure so the arm will fit through...

Rich, that's correct, I left the shelf and cabinet in place. I positioned the recliners so that they would fully recline without rubbing against the shelf or cabinet. I'm not sure what your limited space of 28" refers to. If you can clarify, I will gladly answer your question.

Recliners
 

I'm kinda late to this thread but really want to get rid of my sofa also.Did the old sofa and the new recliners fit through the door.

Since you left the shelf in behind the recliners can you actually use it or are the recliners to high

The sofa bed comes apart pretty easily. It's secured to the floor with angle brackets and some screws, then the arms come off with a few bolts, and the bed section separates from the front frame with a few more. The pieces are easy to get through the door. The recliners are each in two pieces, the seat and back, and also fit through the door pretty easily, although the seat part is fairly heavy (I'm going to guess maybe 40 pounds or so?) and awkward. The console is also in two pieces, but is much lighter.

The shelf is a few inches lower than the seat backs but the DW still uses the shelf to charge her cell phone & tablet. If parked for a long time, she also puts decorations on the shelf. You can only see the shelf if you put the recliners in the fully reclined position.

That looks awesome

The outside TV mount mod is just about done. To recap, the factory outside TV is mounted way too high for comfortable viewing (unless you're standing up right in front of it), and it doesn't so much as tilt down. There have been a lot of times when we would've liked to watch some tube outside, but it was totally impractical.

Sooo, it needed an articulating/full motion mount, and I built one for to support an Omnimount 20X, which works perfectly for the factory TV in our 2014.5 37KT. Keep in mind, I am *not* a very handy person, so I'm sure someone who is could come up with something a lot more elegant/better looking. But my goal was to replicate the strength of a wall stud, which is what this mount would normally be attached to, because the arm exerts a lot of torque when extended. It was a little tricky because I also had to work within the space constraints of the recliners.

Anyway, here's what it looks like. Nothing fancy, just bits of 2x4 cut to size, a few supporting hardware pieces, and lots of screws. The main bit of work was to cut out a chunk of the metal TV enclosure, which was lots of fun. I also still have to pretty things up a bit and rig up a travel lock of some sort, which I'll do next.

In travel position, the TV is essentially in the factory position. When you want to use it, you just pull it out and position it as you like. The double jointed arm extends maybe 20" or so and lowers roughly 10", and tilts up and down so you can position it just about any way you like.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...115c58ed5a.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...2b00d64da9.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...41410c6eac.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...acd0f89e21.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...ab2a566730.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...b780a79ec8.jpg

Question: does anyone know what the purple (?) wire on the left side of this pic is for, and what it's supposed to be attached to? These wires are just inboard of the steps...

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...467926e4e9.jpg

It is for the step light if you have kwikee steps , mine wasn't hooked up either from the factory .

Now that's bizarre. I'll have to check, but I'm pretty sure the step light is working. D'oh!

I looked it up in the manual, I'm sure you have the same steps as I do . Let us know what you find out .

Will do!

Where is the purple wire supposed to hook up to ? Can anyone show a pic of that ? Thanks !

Very Nice!! Thanks for sharing!!

Can the TV move around while in the compartment when traveling?

KC

It won't when I'm finished with it. I'm going to add some sort of "bumper" on the bottom of the original enclosure (maybe foam blocks velcroed to the metal?), and probably secure it with a pair of velcro straps. I haven't really settled on anything yet, as my main goal was to get the mount set up and build an enclosure to seal it off so bugs won't pour in and the cats won't get out when we're using it! But I'm definitely open to suggestions if you or anyone else has ideas on how I can lock the sucker down in travel mode. I also have to drill a hole on the left side to get the TV power cord and HDMI cable out, but that's no big deal.

Here are a couple pics of the enclosure from the inside. Good grief, I haven't done this much woodworking since 8th grade shop class (and it probably looks like it, too)... :D

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...201d4d2b2a.jpg

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...fa9bfe105e.jpg

BTW, that little silver box you see is the HDMI receiver that feeds the signals from the Dish receivers and Blu-Ray player to the outside TV.

Oh, and a question for those who have already done the recliner mod: my slide has two metal plates running from front to back right where the rear holes need to go to secure the rear recliner frame. Did you guys encounter that? And if so, did you just drill through the plates?

Yes, I just drilled through the metal and used sheet metal screws where needed.

The TV mount looks good! Looks like a lot of work but worth it.

Cool. Another trip to Lowes for more screws, LOL!

Thanks! It's been a pain, but at least we'll be able to use it. I never even bothered opening it up after the first time or two because we couldn't see the darn thing very well (not that we're total couch potatoes, but still).

Next up is installing a pet door/tunnel from the stairwell to the basement compartment to use as a litter box "room"...

Hey Webman,

When you leaving for Yellowstone? We are actually heading out of Florida end of May and should be in Yellowstone early June. Really like the work you've shared here, maybe you can give us some ideas for ours!

Awesome! We'll be rolling out of Sarasota on 4 June and will reach Jackson on the 23rd. We've never been to Yellowstone before, and will be doing sort of a round robin from Jackson to West Yellowstone, then up to Gardiner and over to Red Lodge before we start heading east on our return leg in early July.

this board has been awesome for ideas (especially from ctpres and LyonsL)! I just wish I hadn't put some of these things off so long, because the rig is going to be soooooo much more comfortable to live in, especially the recliners and memory foam mattress. I don't consider myself a handy person, but after having to tackle a huge home renovation project (we had to have our entire drain system replaced, and just decided to go ahead and remodel the house in addition to repairing the collateral damage to the floors - but there's no way we could afford to have someone else do it all), the stuff I'm doing to the RV seems like no big deal. And thank God for YouTube how-to videos. How did we get by without them before? :D

I've still got a long list of mods, mostly minor once I get the living room TV cabinet and basement litter box compartment sorted out, that I hope to have done before we leave, so we'll see how many I actually finish.

Attention all Challenger owners.
 

There is a cool website that lets you see where your RV friends are, and in general enjoy membership in numerous groups of like minded RV'rs.
RVillage
I though it would be fun to meet other Challenger owners as we travel so I formed a new group called "Challenger Owners Unite"
RVillage - Group Profile - Thor Challenger Owners Unite

Check it out. If you like it - sign up for free and encourage others to join. The more members in the group the more fun we can have traveling.

That's cool! Going to check it out...