iRV2 Forums

iRV2 Forums (https://www.irv2.com/forums/)
-   Thor Industries Owner's Forum (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/)
-   -   Thor Challenger Owners Unite! (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor-challenger-owners-unite-150811.html)

Webman9113 06-03-2016 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 3098799)
Pricey indeed! I keep mine covered when we're not driving the coach. They last a lot longer that way.

By the way, the new recliners have been road tested and received two thumbs up :thumb::thumb:! Very comfy... hard to stay awake some evenings when watching TV.

Webman9113, have a safe trip to Yellowstone! We'll be out there in August / September. Really looking forward to the trip!

Yes, I need to get covers for both the wipers and the tires. Plan to order some to reach us on the road. We've field tested our recliners in the storage lot (where we have power so we can run the AC), and we're ready for deployment!

Thanks - we'll try to not cause too much havoc on the road, although with us you can never tell... :D

rvbunz 06-04-2016 04:35 AM

Yellowstone
 
Larry,
Are you going to be at Yellowstone in Aug? We are traveling out that way starting around the 9th of Aug. Stopping at Badlands area, Devils Tower then Yellowstone. Maybe will run into you.





QUOTE=LyonsL;3098799]Pricey indeed! I keep mine covered when we're not driving the coach. They last a lot longer that way.

By the way, the new recliners have been road tested and received two thumbs up :thumb::thumb:! Very comfy... hard to stay awake some evenings when watching TV.

Webman9113, have a safe trip to Yellowstone! We'll be out there in August / September. Really looking forward to the trip![/QUOTE]

LyonsL 06-04-2016 10:54 AM

Yellowstone
 
[QUOTE=rvbunz;3099171]Larry,
Are you going to be at Yellowstone in Aug? We are traveling out that way starting around the 9th of Aug. Stopping at Badlands area, Devils Tower then Yellowstone. Maybe will run into you.
[QUOTE=LyonsL;3098799]

rvbunz, we'll be in Dearborn, MI @ the Ford Museum from Aug. 11 - 14 and then out to the Badlands, Devil's Tower, etc. from there. Looks like we'll be about a week behind you. We're stopping at numerous places on the way to Yellowstone and won't get to Yellowstone Grizzly RV Park until Aug. 28. Then Jackson Hole and back east from there. We won't get to the iRV2 Rally until Tuesday, Sept. 13.

djwatts 06-04-2016 04:21 PM

Rock Guard
 
Can someone tell me if I need to purchase a 20" or 16" rock/splash guard for my 2015 Thor Challenger 37TB? It's currently at Camping World for repair for the 5th time in a year so I can't measure it.

cathor 06-04-2016 05:59 PM

Say I am trying to get a Windgaurd traveler dish on our 2014 HT Challenger. It is prewired for satellite with the box for sat/cable/antenna. There is supposed to be a cable on the roof where they can connect to the dish. Does anyone know where this is or how they connect the dish?

handyman1943 06-05-2016 10:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cathor (Post 3100195)
Say I am trying to get a Windgaurd traveler dish on our 2014 HT Challenger. It is prewired for satellite with the box for sat/cable/antenna. There is supposed to be a cable on the roof where they can connect to the dish. Does anyone know where this is or how they connect the dish?

On my 2013KT, there is a "dummy" sewer vent cover on the roof towards the left front of the unit. I'm told that under it is the cable for the dish. Check with your dealer to be sure. Good luck and happy traveling!

cathor 06-05-2016 09:14 PM

satellite cable
 
Gary,
Thanks! I went on top of the coach, pulled the cap off and sure enough it says drill here to get cable for wind guard satellite. That saved me a lot of headaches and am sure a lot of money.

omarleys 06-06-2016 10:58 AM

Leveling System
 
Have a new Thor Challenge. With a LCI leveling syste. The Auto Level set poit is way off. Does anyone know how to set this correctly?

rvbunz 06-06-2016 03:04 PM

Look in your manuals there should be instructions in there. If not go online and google it and a U Tube should pop up. Good luck

rvbunz 06-06-2016 03:20 PM

DJ,
They should be able to check the height of your coach and recommend the correct size. I just told them to install one on mine when I bought my coach. I don't even know the size to tell you the truth.

rvbunz 06-06-2016 03:24 PM

Getting ready to modify our dining area. Taking the center section of the U shaped dinette, and installing a longer table. I constructed the table, bought formica that closely matches what is currently there, ordered the T molding from Thor via a dealer so the table will match the one that goes between the captain chairs. This will allow us to sit more at the table. The U shape was nice but the table was too small. I'll post pictures when done.

rvbunz 06-07-2016 02:29 PM

TV Mod
 
2 Attachment(s)
Well while I'm waiting on my table to be cut at the shop, I decided to add a TV to the front of the coach. This allows us to watch TV when we can't open the slide. I must say it turned out pretty well. Check it out.

bigdaddy5120 06-07-2016 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 3104838)
Well while I'm waiting on my table to be cut at the shop, I decided to add a TV to the front of the coach. This allows us to watch TV when we can't open the slide. I must say it turned out pretty well. Check it out.

Nice Mod , I like it !

LyonsL 06-08-2016 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 3104838)
Well while I'm waiting on my table to be cut at the shop, I decided to add a TV to the front of the coach. This allows us to watch TV when we can't open the slide. I must say it turned out pretty well. Check it out.

Bob, good job!

IrihRed 06-08-2016 08:10 AM

Denver King Mattress Mod
 
The king Denver mattress just didn't hack it. Rather than spend the $ for a new good mattress (short king hard to find) we added a 2" gel memory topper from Target and then added a 5" down topper from Bed Bath and Beyond. Now we feel like we are sleeping at "The Ritz"! Also there was no need to cut down as most toppers are cut shorter to start. All for 1/3 the cost of a new good mattress. Now Happy Glampers!

janniemac 06-08-2016 08:59 PM

Good Idea! We don't like the Denver Mattress in our 16 Challenger 37lx. Bought a 4 inch memory foam topper at WalMart and it was just too soft--couldn't hardly move around. We took it back and are awaiting an 8" Serenia memory foam mattress ($400). You're right, short kings are almost impossible to find, so this one will be 5 inches too long. Watched a YouTube video and will try to cut it down--looks like cutting through a cake. Hope that will work. We had the Serenia in our Class C (sold last year), and absolutely loved it. Only problem was we kept oversleeping:)

Webman9113 06-09-2016 05:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by janniemac (Post 3106960)
Good Idea! We don't like the Denver Mattress in our 16 Challenger 37lx. Bought a 4 inch memory foam topper at WalMart and it was just too soft--couldn't hardly move around. We took it back and are awaiting an 8" Serenia memory foam mattress ($400). You're right, short kings are almost impossible to find, so this one will be 5 inches too long. Watched a YouTube video and will try to cut it down--looks like cutting through a cake. Hope that will work. We had the Serenia in our Class C (sold last year), and absolutely loved it. Only problem was we kept oversleeping:)

We did the same thing: replaced the awful factory mattress with a California King memory foam mattress from Wayfair, then whacked off the excess with an inexpensive electric carving knife. I actually didn't trim it down to the original mattress size, but to the maximum length I could get with the main slide closed. That added a few much needed inches. :-)

rvbunz 06-09-2016 06:06 PM

Well I had laminated the new dining room table and took it to a wood shop so the could cut the groove for the T molding that goes around the outer edge of the table. Well picked it up today and they screwed it up. Cut it too high and notched the edges. Back to square one, Do it Myself. Pictures will be delayed.

DMcRaney 06-10-2016 06:55 PM

Hi DGShafer,

Been going back and looking at old posts. I was hoping you could send me the plans for this. We are looking at a big trip out west this fall and I am working to get our 37GT ready. This would solve one of the biggest pain we have. I don't do metal work, do you have any ruff idea what would be a fair price if I get it made? I live in NC.

Thanks David
dmcraney@mindspring.com

DMcRaney 06-10-2016 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1518738)
Thanks guys, I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. It's too heavy and big to ship but I'd turn over my detailed drawings to anyone that could fabricate one for you. It's made out 1" square x 1/8" wall steel tubing, a little 14 gauge sheet for the mounting angles and gussets, 2x 24" long 1/2-13 all thread, 4 Alcatel bearings, and electricians Unistrut for the glides. It took about 6 hours to design/evaluate and detail, 5 hours to make, and a whopping 15 minutes to install.

The propane is in the next bay and I've been using an Extend-A-Stay fitting to get fuel to the grill since I've had it. It's much easier that way. That grill is three seasons old, I don't use it on every trip but it's been used at least 50 times. I use simple green and spray nine to clean it.

I think that any motor home with slides should be level and supported by the leveling jacks before the slides are put out as a rule. There's too much frame twist to think otherwise. I wonder how much testing was done before they threw a system like that in to their coach. Sounds to me like they're now saying "what do we do now?". Letting the end user pay the price of maintaining and repairing cables just doesn't seem right to me. If they fail, can you run it in manually if it's an emergency?

Hi DGShafer,

Been going back and looking at old posts. I was hoping you could send me the plans for this. We are looking at a big trip out west this fall and I am working to get our 37GT ready. This would solve one of the biggest pain we have. I don't do metal work, do you have any ruff idea what would be a fair price if I get it made? I live in NC.

Thanks David
dmcraney@mindspring.com

TechNot 06-11-2016 05:41 AM

Replacing the modified wave sine inverter with a pure (true) sine inverter will have a huge impact on your electronics operating properly, being reliable and lasting a long time, and even get rid of that awful humming sound. I would recommend looking around as there are many great pure sine inverters out there.

Me personally, I intend to remove the built in Xanrex 1800W modified sine wave and converter with this combo unit. According to the electronics diagram, the charger is right under the bed. That would be annoying hearing the fan run.
2000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger- UL

camato5 06-12-2016 04:33 AM

Replaced JRV212 Stereo/camera unit with new replacement after the JRV212 failed. My Good Sams extended warranty covered it. Jensen sent a JRV9000 as a replacement for the JVR212 because of all the problems everyone has had. JRV9000 is much nicer unit with GPS, Blue Tooth, added to the system.

ctpres 06-12-2016 06:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Techn0 (Post 3110159)
Replacing the modified wave sine inverter with a pure (true) sine inverter will have a huge impact on your electronics operating properly, being reliable and lasting a long time, and even get rid of that awful humming sound. I would recommend looking around as there are many great pure sine inverters out there.

Me personally, I intend to remove the built in Xanrex 1800W modified sine wave and converter with this combo unit. According to the electronics diagram, the charger is right under the bed. That would be annoying hearing the fan run.
2000 Watt Pure Sine Inverter Charger- UL

Not only under the bed - but in small enclosed space with heat generating water heater and no place for heated air to go. Heat and electronics is always a bad combination. Keep us posted with project details when you make the change. Posted price of $800 for sine wave inverter not bad.

ctpres 06-16-2016 05:22 PM

Thor - Thumbs - Up
 
Two times, two Class "A's" with recurring problems. One Damon with leveling system and a Challenger with slide issues. Thor steped up to the plate both times and agreed to cover repairs. That kind of service is worth a thousand words. We remain faithful and happy Thor customers. If a step up to diesel is ever in our future - It WILL be a Thor product - no questions asked.

gavaman 06-16-2016 06:36 PM

Can anyone tell me the use of the two outside speakers next to the compartment of the outside TV? I have a 2016 Challenger 37KT and can't seem to figure out how to turn these speakers on or if they even work with the outside TV.

marcdohc 06-16-2016 08:32 PM

They are from the stereo in the bedroom. A is for the speakers over the headboard and B is those speakers.

ctpres 06-18-2016 10:39 AM

Why?
 
Very happy with our KT. But after almost two years I still have unanswered questions. Our KT has a corner cabinet in the dine section. INSIDE the cabinet is a 110 outlet. That makes THREE outlets on the same small wall. Can anyone tell me why it is there or maybe what practical use you have found for it.

tedgard01 06-18-2016 09:46 PM

Thor Challenger Owners Unite!
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3121118)
Very happy with our KT. But after almost two years I still have unanswered questions. Our KT has a corner cabinet in the dine section. INSIDE the cabinet is a 110 outlet. That makes THREE outlets on the same small wall. Can anyone tell me why it is there or maybe what practical use you have found for it.


Plugging something in... Just joking... But all the plugs in my GT are used for that... Just saying....

ctpres 06-19-2016 07:45 AM

Two different voices for speed warning
 
Had blank screen problem with our Jensen 212 radio and Thor replaced even thou it was about two months out of wty. Did a DIY R/R with the Jensen JRV215N. Easy Job. Tested all features and good to go - to good! I played with the nav system enough to decide our dash GPS was better suited to RV travels. Our dash GPS audio is thru radio. An hour or so down the road we get a speed warning with different voice. Happened again next day. Finally figured out that warning was coming from radio GPS even thou nav program was turned off. No matter what I did I could not shut that lady up. Days later I FIXED the problem by going into radio GPS options and turning off speed warning. Havn't heard from her since then.

Rsapp 06-19-2016 09:10 AM

Window Info
 
Real Scary Issue. On my trip back from the low country is SC we were driving down a two lane road and an oncoming Tractor-trailer threw a rock we think from the rear wheels of the tractor that rock hit the edge of the drivers side tinted window of the HEHR window not the sliding section but the fixed section at the top. I contacted my insurance company and they had Denver Systems contact me and they got the information on what window and my other information. They advised that the entire window will have to be replaced and it may take up to three weeks. I am very thankful I have Comprhensive coverage on the my motorhome since there is going to be a 0$ deductible for the replacement. The window itself is a double pane and it shattered but never fell out at least so far. I placed clear tape over the entire section since the RV will not be sitting idle for at least the next 2-3 weeks but that causes the replacement to be a mobile service or they will have to chase me down. Head4ed to NC for a week on Monday so I hope all will be well with the window during our journey until we can get it fixed.
Just wanted to let everyone know something else to look out for as you travel.

Russell

bigben 06-19-2016 09:21 AM

Rsapp - had something very similar happen to me on a trip to the West Coast with 3 grandkids with us. I used 1/4' plexiglass put into the hole, fastened it in the all four corners after drilling small holes. I then inserted 1/4' x 2 1/2" bolts with fender washer to fasten it in. Used windshield seal between the plexiglass and coach. Drove on for another 5500 miles through rain and heat. Biggest problem was I forgot how many people come up to the that window to talk. Here is the post on the Thor Forum. Driver side window - blows up - Thor Forums

Rsapp 06-19-2016 10:29 AM

Follow up
 
I can see a spot on the window where the rock hit this one. So I hope the shipping tape will hold until we can get back from all our outings, the inside part of the glass is not broken and the rain has not affected yet so I think we are good. I had to drive another 10 miles before I could stop and survey the damage and I was on the phone for a good while with Denver Systems to get all the info. I had to send them dimensions and pics so they can exactly match the window. I thought if you used the Motorhome number from the factory that it would tell the model and the size of the window that was used in the building of the motor home and there was only one style and size of the window by HEHR for a certain type of motorhome. Hope it only takes a short time for replacement.

Thanks for the information.

bigben 06-19-2016 11:20 AM

When ours blew out, the whole section was replaced. Thor covered it under warranty - never did determine why.

KC 06-19-2016 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3121118)
Very happy with our KT. But after almost two years I still have unanswered questions. Our KT has a corner cabinet in the dine section. INSIDE the cabinet is a 110 outlet. That makes THREE outlets on the same small wall. Can anyone tell me why it is there or maybe what practical use you have found for it.

My wife keeps her Keurig on that cabinet.

KC

Webman9113 06-20-2016 07:52 AM

That looks pretty slick - might do the same with ours. Did the radio include all the harnesses to tie into the existing wiring? And what about navigation system updates?

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3122182)
Had blank screen problem with our Jensen 212 radio and Thor replaced even thou it was about two months out of wty. Did a DIY R/R with the Jensen JRV215N. Easy Job. Tested all features and good to go - to good! I played with the nav system enough to decide our dash GPS was better suited to RV travels. Our dash GPS audio is thru radio. An hour or so down the road we get a speed warning with different voice. Happened again next day. Finally figured out that warning was coming from radio GPS even thou nav program was turned off. No matter what I did I could not shut that lady up. Days later I FIXED the problem by going into radio GPS options and turning off speed warning. Havn't heard from her since then.


ctpres 06-20-2016 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 3123744)
That looks pretty slick - might do the same with ours. Did the radio include all the harnesses to tie into the existing wiring? And what about navigation system updates?

Harness no. They are available but did not come with ours. Just had to study both radio wire color codes. I am sure if I asked Thor they would have sent one - just did not want to wait. Re updates - yes. Micro SD card moved to computer as needed and free updates. Biggest positive difference for us has been hands free phone calls.

Webman9113 06-20-2016 07:13 PM

Cool! I'm putting this on my wish list... :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3123760)
Harness no. They are available but did not come with ours. Just had to study both radio wire color codes. I am sure if I asked Thor they would have sent one - just did not want to wait. Re updates - yes. Micro SD card moved to computer as needed and free updates. Biggest positive difference for us has been hands free phone calls.


LyonsL 06-23-2016 03:37 PM

Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer
 
I'm finally going to install the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer on my coach. It does not appear to be a difficult job. For those of you that have already done so, do you have any tips, tricks or suggestions?

Don and Dale 06-23-2016 03:52 PM

Larry...
Prior to our trip, I did the install on our coach. The only issue I had was torquing the bracket bolts to 240 ft lbs (per their recommendations). I could only get the bolts torqued to ~175 ft pounds with the tools I had. I ended up taking it to Ford big truck dealer locally who did the torque for me. Outside of that, it was an easy install. Granted, I am not a Challenger owner so I hope I'm not out of line here. Hope it helps some.

ctpres 06-23-2016 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 3129186)
I'm finally going to install the Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer on my coach. It does not appear to be a difficult job. For those of you that have already done so, do you have any tips, tricks or suggestions?

I'm 77 and had no problems so you are right it isn't hard. If you can't take coach on the road to mark steering wheel straight position, just run a string across rear wheel and front. When touching front and back of both tires wheels are pretty straight. Fine tuning will probably take more than one attempt to get it hands free straight. String method got it very driveable and first fine tune is even better but still a bit off. Found some differences between printed instructions and youtube video. Phone call did not help much. I think I ended up following printed pictures. Basically tube and arm parallel to ground or level. It does work - third trip thru Rockies and lots of flat land driving with no problem. Less stress driving.

LyonsL 06-24-2016 12:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Don and Dale (Post 3129204)
Larry...
Prior to our trip, I did the install on our coach. The only issue I had was torquing the bracket bolts to 240 ft lbs (per their recommendations). I could only get the bolts torqued to ~175 ft pounds with the tools I had. I ended up taking it to Ford big truck dealer locally who did the torque for me. Outside of that, it was an easy install. Granted, I am not a Challenger owner so I hope I'm not out of line here. Hope it helps some.

Don, thanks for the info. I have (or can borrow) all the needed tools and my torque wrench goes up to 250 ft. lbs.

LyonsL 06-24-2016 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3129514)
I'm 77 and had no problems so you are right it isn't hard. If you can't take coach on the road to mark steering wheel straight position, just run a string across rear wheel and front. When touching front and back of both tires wheels are pretty straight. Fine tuning will probably take more than one attempt to get it hands free straight. String method got it very driveable and first fine tune is even better but still a bit off. Found some differences between printed instructions and youtube video. Phone call did not help much. I think I ended up following printed pictures. Basically tube and arm parallel to ground or level. It does work - third trip thru Rockies and lots of flat land driving with no problem. Less stress driving.

ctpres, thanks for the tips. I plan to install on Tuesday before our trip to Ocean City, MD. We're going out west to Yellowstone, etc. in Aug. & Sept. and wanted to do something before that 4000 mile trip.

bigdaddy5120 07-06-2016 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 3094616)
Here are a couple pics of the "finalized" outside TV installation on our 37KT.

The TV is mounted on an Omnimount that can swing out, drop down, and turn, so you can position the TV so as to see it from just about any angle on the curb side of the rig.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...9b761e189b.jpg

To stow for travel, you just push it back into the enclosure, then secure it with two velcro straps that are pinned in place by the aluminum angle "shelf" I bolted to the original metal TV enclosure.

https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...57c3df6721.jpg

When I get more time, I'll cut away some of the unneeded bits of the metal housing and paint the innards black to pretty it up a bit, but for now it's functional and ready to travel...

What is the model of the mount ?

Webman9113 07-06-2016 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 3148825)
What is the model of the mount ?

It's the Omnimount PLAY20X. :)

ctpres 07-13-2016 07:57 AM

Our Summer Home
 
Have been to well over 200 RV parks and after less than two weeks at Mountian Views RV Park/Resort https://www.mountainviewsrv.com/ we decided to become an owner. This will be a totally different lifestyle for us. Look up Creede CO. and if your travels come close - stop in and visit. Our Challenger is the ONLY gas rig in the resort. Couple neighbors that have toured our KT can't believe it's gas. Once we get concrete pad and landscaping done I'll get back to my mod list.

sbleiweiss 07-14-2016 06:29 AM

Glad you found something you love. We did the same with Sedona AZ.

Rustynail462 07-14-2016 08:37 AM

Just wondering, pricing is from May to Sept... is it open year round...probably missed it some where there ???

ctpres 07-15-2016 07:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustynail462 (Post 3160353)
Just wondering, pricing is from May to Sept... is it open year round...probably missed it some where there ???

Mountain Views is not open in the winter. May to Sep. is it.

DannyHVAC 07-16-2016 05:06 PM

Hello everyone!

Took delivery of my 2017 37kt one week ago. Did a pretty thorough PDI, found a few small things but nothing major.


Then a quick shakedown trip gave us our first Major Issue. When we shower, water leaks out under the hallway wall corner in the dining/kitchen area.


I took it back, they said they tightened everything up and sealed it. Now we are 4 hours away on a long road trip and the exact thing keeps happening... Should have checked it before I left the shop!


Anyway- I've checked the access panel under the shower and it is completely dry.


Any suggestions on where to look next?

camaromance 07-16-2016 10:37 PM

Hey, Danny. Sorry to hear your having troubles.

Pour a couple of gallons of water down the shower drain to see if it's the drain that's leaking. If it doesn't, than its the water supply. Try to narrow it down even more by only turning on the hot or the cold. If that doesn't make a difference, than its in the piping that supplies the shower head. It might also be the shower door or panels. They always seem to leak. I sealed All the wall seams with clear silicone. If the leak was before the shower valve, you'd have water leaking as soon as the pump kicked on or if you were connected to a fresh water supply.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Hoegee 07-16-2016 11:14 PM

Try this
 
We had leaking in our 36fd. No leaks if you just run he shower. Got in mine a took a shower. Presto drain was flexing because of poor support. Some foam blocks under the pan and it was fixed

bronk 07-17-2016 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyHVAC (Post 3163979)
Hello everyone!

Took delivery of my 2017 37kt one week ago. Did a pretty thorough PDI, found a few small things but nothing major.


Then a quick shakedown trip gave us our first Major Issue. When we shower, water leaks out under the hallway wall corner in the dining/kitchen area.


I took it back, they said they tightened everything up and sealed it. Now we are 4 hours away on a long road trip and the exact thing keeps happening... Should have checked it before I left the shop!


Anyway- I've checked the access panel under the shower and it is completely dry.


Any suggestions on where to look next?

Had the same issue. Recaulk with silicone around the inside seam closest to the kitchen area. When the shower stream hits directly on this area (seam), it tends to leak. We keep the shower stream headed towards the opposing wall (directly opposite of the shower head). The clear silicone application did stop the leaking, however.

Bronk

sbleiweiss 07-17-2016 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronk (Post 3164575)
Had the same issue. Recaulk with silicone around the inside seam closest to the kitchen area. When the shower stream hits directly on this area (seam), it tends to leak. We keep the shower stream headed towards the opposing wall (directly opposite of the shower head). The clear silicone application did stop the leaking, however.

Bronk

We also had to caulk the seams where the walls meet the floor. I would have thought that they build some overlap into that juncture like I have seen on S&B shower surrounds. Nope. But our leaks were into the bathroom so your issue may be different. Good luck.

DannyHVAC 07-20-2016 11:27 AM

Thanks everyone-

The shower enclosure was the source of the leak, and we did recaulk the seam between the interior shower wall and shower base. I'd love to hit the exterior of the enclosure too, but I'd probably have to remove the cabinet. I'll save that for our next service appt.

gavaman 07-21-2016 09:00 AM

2016 37kt
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by bronk (Post 3164575)
Had the same issue. Recaulk with silicone around the inside seam closest to the kitchen area. When the shower stream hits directly on this area (seam), it tends to leak. We keep the shower stream headed towards the opposing wall (directly opposite of the shower head). The clear silicone application did stop the leaking, however.

Bronk

I had some problems with mine also shows that they don't prep these rv's to well. They forget to open the valve for the hot water, the valve for the refrigerator and one of slide outs kept blowing a fuse. The couch was broken, the button you push for the roof antenna was hidden behind a panel so I had to search for that. It took camping world almost three weeks to fix everything.
I got to use it one night out a month. Thank fully everything works now

bronk 07-21-2016 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DannyHVAC (Post 3170160)
Thanks everyone-

The shower enclosure was the source of the leak, and we did recaulk the seam between the interior shower wall and shower base. I'd love to hit the exterior of the enclosure too, but I'd probably have to remove the cabinet. I'll save that for our next service appt.

What I did to reach the outside of the enclosure was to devise a silicone "delivery system" by fashioning a yardstick (any thin piece of wood would suffice" and applied silicone to an end of stick and carefully and slowly ran the of silicone down the outside seam. If you are cautious and take your time , you will mitigate the amount of silicone you get on the enclosure. Good luck!

Bronk (In coastal Maine for the summer and havin' a wicked good time!!!)

Webman9113 07-23-2016 04:28 PM

Trip-Almost-Over Report
 
Well, our 8 week junket to Colorado, the Grand Tetons, and Yellowstone (along with visiting a bunch of friends along the way) is almost over: we're in northern Georgia, and will be home in Sarasota in just a few days. My wife and I are ready to just turn around and head back to the Rockies, but I guess we sorta have to make money and all that other mundane stuff.

Anyway, I thought I'd give a few observations and comments on the performance of our 2014.5 37KT and the mods I did before we left for the benefit of those who may be considering similar mods:

- WeBoost RV 4G cell booster: an external broadband directional antenna mounted to the TV mast and using the existing TV coax to supply the signal to the internal booster and antenna in the cabinet behind the TV in the bedroom, with my iPhone positioned a few inches in front of the internal antenna. This setup worked *extremely* well and saved our bacon in the numerous RV parks where the wifi was crappy (my wife and I have our businesses on the web, so connectivity is very important). I mounted the external antenna to the TV mast so it stuck up vertically like a shark fin, and that was usually just fine to get a strong signal from any cell towers in the immediate area. For towers that were farther away, I raised the mast and pointed the antenna with the help of the OpenSignal app on my iPhone. We never had less than 4 bars of signal strength on the iPhone, even when the external strength was 1. So this was worth every penny for us. The DOWNSIDE was that the aluminum angle bracket bracket mount for the external broadband antenna was rather brittle, and in the 40 MPH winds that hit us in South Dakota, it bent and partly broke. So I have to find another alternative for that.

- Ubiquiti LocoM2 paired with an Airgateway indoor access point: This also worked great, allowing us to shoot over the tops of other rigs to reach distant park wifi antennas with good signal strength, then providing a single point of access within the coach for all wifi enabled devices. The only downside of this is the typical crappy quality of most park wifi's: you can have a great signal between you and their access point, but if they don't have a router and bandwidth that'll support the load, you might not get much of anything. But for $100 for the two devices (which I typically mount with a velcro strap on a Flagpole Buddy), if the park has decent throughput, you won't have any problem getting a great connection.

- The outdoor TV swivel mount: we didn't use this nearly as much as I'd hoped, mainly because some of the places where we stayed several nights were windy as heck, and most of the others we didn't stay long enough for me to want to wrestle out the chairs (or it was raining, etc.). However, for the times we did use it, it worked really well: it was nice to be able to actually be able to put the TV in a position where we could see it while sitting at the table, in our chairs, grilling, etc. So, it was quite a bit of work and didn't earn itself back on this trip, but I'm sure it will in future and I don't regret doing it.

- The IOGear Matrix Pro wireless HDMI system: while it works really well, we didn't use it as much as I was expecting, mainly because we had our butts in those comfy recliners most of the time, LOL! But it works very well and over time it'll pay for itself in terms of use.

- The Camping World recliners: the two recliners and center console that I installed after removing the old sofa bed made the trip. They are SOOOOO comfortable, and were worth every penny and the modest pain to install them. The only downside is that the fabric on the ones we got is fairly soft and vulnerable to cat claws, but we knew that going into it and just try to keep the chairs covered with a couple of thick throws.

The one thing I couldn't figure out how to do before we left that I REALLY wish I'd been able to do was making the compartment on the passenger side just forward of the entry door into a cat box area. But I couldn't quite figure out how to make a passageway from the entry step well to the compartment that would get around the intervening framing, etc. But that's something I plan to sort out before we go out again!

Not many things went wrong (knock on wood, as we're not home, LOL). Aside from the aforementioned aluminum mounting bracket for the external cell booster antenna, we've only had two bloopers:

- Just this morning, the entry steps broke. This didn't come as a complete surprise, as we got the recall notice, but I didn't have time to get it fixed before we left. So I need to figure out how to jerry rig it until we get home.

- I discovered, much to my chagrin, that the front left tire is going to have to be replaced when we get home: the tread has worn down to the point where it won't be safe to take it out again. Aside from not having been rotated (my bad: we're at 13,000 miles now), the only thing I can think of is an alignment issue, because the other tires all have tons more tread still on them. So that'll be a chunk of change before we can head out again.

Also, I was wondering if the level of our coach is "normal" - when it's sitting on a level surface, I would estimate that the front is probably 4-6" lower than the rear. We spent a little extra time early in the trip finding an "optimal" level position for the coach, which leads us to have to put 3-4" of blocks under the front tires and jacks in most places to keep everything in contact with the ground while getting the inside level. Any comments on that??

Anyway, that's it for now! More to come, I'm sure... :-)

camaromance 07-24-2016 08:01 AM

Hey, congrats on a successful trip. It doesn't just happen, it takes a lot of work and planning to pull off an 8 week trip.

I'm interested in learning more about your wifi and cellular mods. Some places we go in PA do not have Verizon coverage. Hard to believe in this day and age.

Regarding the litter box mod, I did that to our 37kt a few years ago. I had to "trim" some of the framing with a side grinder and fab a little tunnel but I've had no issues since doing it. It was hard to start cutting through a brand new coach but is was well worth it not having to step in litter and sweeping constantly.

The cats took right to it, as long as we're parked. I fenced it in with 1" mesh from Lowes to keep the cats from wandering all over the stow. I also made a door on the forward stow so I can open both doors while camping. That cats tend to hang out there and it's a great conversation starter.

sbleiweiss 07-24-2016 09:31 AM

Great report. Thanks. My comments:

Tell us more about the wear on the tire. Could be other things than just alignment.

When I have seen/heard about making a litter box in storage area it has been in the area behind the door, not in front of it.

That forward slope is definitely not normal. Has it been that way since new? Maybe related to the tire wear?

Webman9113 07-24-2016 02:38 PM

Yeah, lots of planning...and then it's gone in a flash! That's just no fair...

Anyway, if you scroll back in this thread a bit (it's not too far back), I did writeup on the wifi and cell booster installations. But if you have any questions after scoping those out, just lemme know!

And do you have any pics of your litter box mod you could post? I think I have an idea of what I'm going to do, but seeing what you've done would help a lot... :)

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 3176148)
Hey, congrats on a successful trip. It doesn't just happen, it takes a lot of work and planning to pull off an 8 week trip.

I'm interested in learning more about your wifi and cellular mods. Some places we go in PA do not have Verizon coverage. Hard to believe in this day and age.

Regarding the litter box mod, I did that to our 37kt a few years ago. I had to "trim" some of the framing with a side grinder and fab a little tunnel but I've had no issues since doing it. It was hard to start cutting through a brand new coach but is was well worth it not having to step in litter and sweeping constantly.

The cats took right to it, as long as we're parked. I fenced it in with 1" mesh from Lowes to keep the cats from wandering all over the stow. I also made a door on the forward stow so I can open both doors while camping. That cats tend to hang out there and it's a great conversation starter.


Webman9113 07-24-2016 03:03 PM

Regarding the quirky front tire, I'd estimate that the other tires have roughly 1/2" of tread. I mean, these tires only have 16K on them now - it's not like they've been around the country twenty times. By contrast, the two center grooves of the front left tire have about 1/4", and the two outer grooves have roughly 1/8". The wear in the each of the outermost grooves seems to be about the same.

Having looked at some pics about tire wear issues (as I don't know much about tires beyond that they're supposed to be round, LOL), I'd say the symptom that seems most likely is under inflation. That's puzzling, as one of the things I've been pretty anal about is monitoring the tire pressure. I used to keep them at 90, as per the placard, but dropped them to 85 for this trip because we don't travel with oodles of extra weight and the ride is better (and before anyone asks, no, I have to confess I haven't had the rig weighed).

As for the litter box, we have big cats and the litter box wouldn't fit in the small compartment aft of the door, LOL! Besides, if I did that I'd have to reroute the water lines from the washer.

I'll have to post a pic of the "slope," but I actually think it is normal: I've looked at some side shots of Challengers, and they look visually about the same. And yes, it's always been that way. Another way to see what I mean is to measure the distance from the front jack pads to the ground, and the rear jack pads to the ground: our front jacks are lower. I'll do that tomorrow if I get a chance while we're on the way from Tennessee to Georgia. :)

Crap, I really don't want to go home... <sigh>


Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 3176305)
Great report. Thanks. My comments:

Tell us more about the wear on the tire. Could be other things than just alignment.

When I have seen/heard about making a litter box in storage area it has been in the area behind the door, not in front of it.

That forward slope is definitely not normal. Has it been that way since new? Maybe related to the tire wear?


Webman9113 07-24-2016 03:25 PM

Oh, another break on this trip: the mounting brackets for the roller blinds on the side bedroom window. The blind just fell off. Turns out the brackets are made of sturdy metal...except for the spring loaded clamp that actually holds the blind to the bracket. That's made of brittle plastic, and the blinds are actually pretty darn heavy.

I was going to just swap the brackets from the living room blind, but when I tried to remove the blind, guess what? The plastic bits broke!

Anyway, after toying with the idea of trying to make some sort of metal bracket, I came up with an easier solution: I used the same screws that were holding in the brackets (#10 x 3/4"), some #10 washers, and some lengths of 1" nylon strap that I cut from some spare tie-downs I carry. Then I just put the screws through the strap about an inch from the ends (which I melted to keep them from fraying) and tightened them down, the washers clamping the strap to the wood. I did that on the "outside" side first, propped the blind into position, then put in the "inside" screws, then trimmed off the excess strap.

I'll have to do the same with the living room blind, but didn't feel like messing with it until after we get home.

sbleiweiss 07-25-2016 08:26 AM

Agree about underinflation. That would explain the extra wear on the outer edges, but not the one tire wearing more than all the others. 85 pounds sounds light to me. We were following Thor's placard saying 90 pounds all around, but two different tire techs recommended 100 for the front. We compromised by carrying 95 in front, still 90 in back. I would still investigate the excessive wear on the one tire.

We had one shade fall off the same way. Thor sent us extra brackets to do the repair. The manufacturer recommends three brackets and Thor only put on two.

Webman9113 07-25-2016 11:14 AM

Hmm, okay, I'll give that a try - 95 in front and 90 in the rear before we leave our next stop. And yeah, I could understand both front tires being more worn, but not so unevenly. Regardless, I'll have someone check it out when we get home. One thing I didn't mention earlier was that the only thing not stock on the front end is a Safe-T-Plus stabilizer that LazyDays installed.

I certainly agree that even the smaller shades should have three brackets - those things are surprisingly heavy. Huh. I just took a look at the long blind in the dining room area - only 2 brackets, too. That thing should have four. Hmmm...

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 3177773)
Agree about underinflation. That would explain the extra wear on the outer edges, but not the one tire wearing more than all the others. 85 pounds sounds light to me. We were following Thor's placard saying 90 pounds all around, but two different tire techs recommended 100 for the front. We compromised by carrying 95 in front, still 90 in back. I would still investigate the excessive wear on the one tire.

We had one shade fall off the same way. Thor sent us extra brackets to do the repair. The manufacturer recommends three brackets and Thor only put on two.


sbleiweiss 07-28-2016 09:29 AM

Schwintek Slide Problem
 
Finally happened to us. One of our Schwintek slides starting screwing up. Once we had to wait for a mobil tech for three days over a holiday weekend before being able to head out. We retimed the motors by holding the switch after it finished its cycle, and it worked maybe a dozen stops. Then it happened again. Front of slide would move freely but back would bind.

Took it to a local RV dealer who said if it needed parts they would have to order them, and we didn''t have time to wait. Still we had them look at it, and yay, they were able to fix without parts. Here is the story as I understand it.

First there are rivets holding the room in position. Those rivets broke, allowing the room to shift. The room was pushing against the rear motor. Every time the rear motor turned, the room was rubbing against the wires coming from the motor and finally tore the insulation and caused it to short out. They were able to rewrap the wires (solder maybe?) and get us on the road. Of course they had to replace the rivets too.

So far so good. My guess is that I broke them cutting a turn too short into a gas station and jumping a curb with the rear tire.

Rsapp 08-03-2016 12:50 PM

2015 Thor Challenger 37KT
 
What is the bulb size on the fixture over the dining table and is it screw out or do they have the pins that you push in and twist? I had one blow this morning and I don't want the bulb to break to take it out so I thought if someone had replaced theirs they could help.

Thanks,

gavaman 08-03-2016 06:32 PM

Does anyone know what type of Washer and Dryer would fit into a 2016 Challenger 37Kt? Would it have to be a a washer/dryer all in one or separate? Any idea on the cost and best place to buy the item?

Webman9113 08-04-2016 04:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsapp (Post 3192071)
What is the bulb size on the fixture over the dining table and is it screw out or do they have the pins that you push in and twist? I had one blow this morning and I don't want the bulb to break to take it out so I thought if someone had replaced theirs they could help.

Thanks,

On our 2014.5 KT the dining room bulbs are the pin type; I don't know for sure, but I suspect the 2015s are the same. We replaced them with these LED bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKMXIFI

Note that if you decide to go with those (we love 'em), they'll only work in one orientation. So if you plug them in and they don't work, reverse them. :)

Webman9113 08-04-2016 04:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gavaman (Post 3192464)
Does anyone know what type of Washer and Dryer would fit into a 2016 Challenger 37Kt? Would it have to be a a washer/dryer all in one or separate? Any idea on the cost and best place to buy the item?

I don't know what washer + dryer would fit, but we got one of the Splendide combos and love it. Camping World installed it in the bottom of the cabinet, venting it to the outside, then moved the three slide-out shelves above it so we retained the pantry. Worked perfectly for us. :)

TechNot 08-04-2016 06:02 AM

The Splendide 2100XC is the vented version washer/dryer combo. The 7100XC is the non vented version. I would recommend the vented version. Either way, there is a learning curve to washing and drying as they are not like regular washers and dryers. I have heard of people double stacking singles washer and dryers in there but unsure of what models plus that is more weight and less room for anything else. Best of luck.

sbleiweiss 08-04-2016 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsapp (Post 3192071)
What is the bulb size on the fixture over the dining table and is it screw out or do they have the pins that you push in and twist? I had one blow this morning and I don't want the bulb to break to take it out so I thought if someone had replaced theirs they could help.

Thanks,

In ours it is the kind with pins that you push up and twist. We have had to change those bulbs many times. I am not at the RV now or I could tell you the size, but you will see it when you remove it.

sbleiweiss 08-04-2016 07:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 3192893)
I don't know what washer + dryer would fit, but we got one of the Splendide combos and love it. Camping World installed it in the bottom of the cabinet, venting it to the outside, then moved the three slide-out shelves above it so we retained the pantry. Worked perfectly for us. :)

We did this exact same thing. Total Valu RV did it for us. I know the closet is made for the stackables too if you prefer. But we like retaining the shelves above the W/D.

KC 08-04-2016 03:10 PM

On our Slow rise shades, there is Velcro on the shades. Does anyone have Velcro on the window as well?

KC

ctpres 08-04-2016 04:46 PM

Thor 1 Atwood 0
 
Atwood wty is worthless. Our furnace died under Atwoods two year wty. After being sent three wrong parts we were told by Atwood that our furnace is obsolete! We would have to pay for new furnace with new door which would have to be painted. BIG BUCKS. Decided to call Thor for help with Atwood. Couple phone calls later our mobile service tech can order part from Thor stock thru Total Value and Atwood WILL reimburse us.
Thank You Thor!

sbleiweiss 08-05-2016 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Webman9113 (Post 3192891)
On our 2014.5 KT the dining room bulbs are the pin type; I don't know for sure, but I suspect the 2015s are the same. We replaced them with these LED bulbs:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EKMXIFI

Note that if you decide to go with those (we love 'em), they'll only work in one orientation. So if you plug them in and they don't work, reverse them. :)

So these screw into and work in the existing fixture; you only need change to a different bulb? If I am understanding that right, this is a great bit of information; less heat and last way longer.

DannyHVAC 08-05-2016 11:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gavaman (Post 3192464)
Does anyone know what type of Washer and Dryer would fit into a 2016 Challenger 37Kt? Would it have to be a a washer/dryer all in one or separate? Any idea on the cost and best place to buy the item?

We also went with the Splendide 7100 combo and reinstalled shelves above. About a month in and we are still on the learning curve for the drying cycle. We do a small load every day, as we have a 4 year old boy who loves to play outside. We are full timing, so we went with the combo for extra cabinet space.

We bought it from camping world online when it was on sale and had it shipped to our house. Our local dealer installed it (not camping world) and reinstalled the shelves above for us.

DannyHVAC 08-05-2016 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC (Post 3193742)
On our Slow rise shades, there is Velcro on the shades. Does anyone have Velcro on the window as well?

KC

We had one slow ride shade broken on our initial walk through... And the new replacement shipped with velcro on it. None of our windows or other shades have Velcro through.

Webman9113 08-05-2016 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 3194719)
So these screw into and work in the existing fixture; you only need change to a different bulb? If I am understanding that right, this is a great bit of information; less heat and last way longer.

They're direct replacements for the ones we had in ours, but just remember that they're the push-and-twist pin type, not threaded screw base... :)

We also got these - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BSFW5PY - to replace the bulbs in the reading light fixtures over the bed and sofa.

KC 08-07-2016 02:09 PM

Does or has anyone had issue with hard opening entry door? Our mid coach entry door is very hard to open and close. Dealer has worked on it on 2 occasion and we are still having issues.

KC

sbleiweiss 08-08-2016 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC (Post 3198062)
Does or has anyone had issue with hard opening entry door? Our mid coach entry door is very hard to open and close. Dealer has worked on it on 2 occasion and we are still having issues.

KC

We had this on occasion but adjustments seem to have mostly fixed problem now. It is harder or easier in different setups, based, I assume, on how level the coach is or how much twist is in the body.

Rsapp 08-08-2016 07:06 AM

Entry Door
 
I have been having the same issue on my KT. I read somewhere that it was out of adjustment but since u have had it checked twice it makes me wonder about it too. I usually have the problem when the Rv is not level. I have done a check on my leveling jacks and it shows it is 0 leveled as the directions state for the jacks but I think mine is still off level a very small amount and may be causing my issue. Just wanted u to know I was having the same issue.

ctpres 08-08-2016 08:03 AM

Hard to oppen door
 
I also had problems adjusting door. Finally settled open easier when level and harder off jacks. If changes in latch plate do not help - look at screen door latch. If out of adjustmrent the screen door latch will still hook on th the receiver on door frame. Easy test is to have someone inside hold screen door handle down when you open door. Adjust by moving hook on door.

ctpres 08-08-2016 08:55 AM

Re Velcro on slow rise shades. It is there to stop rattles when underway. I had to move a couple pieces so they lined up with the metal frame.

logalinipoo 08-09-2016 02:37 AM

2016 37kt probs
 
Sorry I haven't had time to read all through this thread. I'm working on it, but I have a few probs I need to get addressed.

We've been fulltime for over a month. And everything has been pretty good, but now we're in Colorado with a few problems.

First, the kitchen sink fell on the drive here. Does anyone know what glue or epoxy to use on the brackets? I've tried looking around and every one keeps pointing me to constriction adhesive. I tried it and 2 days later it was not strong enough to hold the sink.

I can't figure out how to work the furnace. I'm making due with the fireplace, but can't find the furnace control anywhere. Both thermostats just have options for cool and off.

I too have experience the shower leak, but I find its water from the door seals. Not too big of a deal

Finally I bought a wineguard travler, and I'm trying to figure out where to mount it on the roof. I found the orange wire for satalite behind the fireplace and traced it to a turn out of the ba see mentioned up with the antenna wire. But I only have 2 vents on my roof and haven't seen where the dish should mount or where the wire goes. I guess it's time to pull vent covers and maybe ac unit covers. If anyone has an idea or better yet pictures tg as t would be great.

Logan

ctpres 08-09-2016 08:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by logalinipoo (Post 3200392)
I too have experience the shower leak, but I find its water from the door seals. Not too big of a dealLogan

Try adding a little caulk at joint for door frame corners (where door sill meets upright wall panels). The joint at hinge pin is really hard to caulk. I ended up using a very thin flat stick as caulk tip will not fit in the small space.

sbleiweiss 08-10-2016 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by logalinipoo (Post 3200392)
First, the kitchen sink fell on the drive here. Does anyone know what glue or epoxy to use on the brackets? I've tried looking around and every one keeps pointing me to constriction adhesive. I tried it and 2 days later it was not strong enough to hold the sink.

I can't figure out how to work the furnace. I'm making due with the fireplace, but can't find the furnace control anywhere. Both thermostats just have options for cool and off.


Logan

All I can say is WOW about the sink falling. I have no idea but would be freaking about that. The furnace control on ours is part of the thermostat between the kitchen sink cabinet and the bathroom door (opposite the table). If both of your thermostats are cool only, then I think the Thor factory installed the wrong thermostat in your dining room. I would call Thor, and maybe a dealer or mobile tech in Colorado could change it out on warranty.

ctpres 08-11-2016 09:08 PM

Challenger Club - Thinking out loud
 
Just attended a Thor Diesel owners rally at Mountain Views RV Park in Creede CO. I came away from the get together with the idea that maybe it is time to try a Thor Challenger Owners Club. History says Thor will not support such a club so I am thinking why advertise for Thor in this potential club name. How about simply the Challenger Owners Club? To start - no dues, no officers​ and all Challenger owners are members. In the begining just a ​gathering of two or more Challenger owners​ sometime next summer. If more than one or two are interested I will meet with the owner of Mountain Views and see what kind of deal I can put together.

For info on the community
Population, Economy & Lifestyle

For info on the RVpark/Resorthttps://www.mountainviewsrv.com/

ctpres 08-19-2016 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3193857)
Atwood wty is worthless. Our furnace died under Atwoods two year wty. After being sent three wrong parts we were told by Atwood that our furnace is obsolete! We would have to pay for new furnace with new door which would have to be painted. BIG BUCKS. Decided to call Thor for help with Atwood. Couple phone calls later our mobile service tech can order part from Thor stock thru Total Value and Atwood WILL reimburse us.
Thank You Thor!

OP here with follow-up. Now Atwood -1. Following applies to Atwood 8535. Furnace problems all pointed to a bad board. No ignition and furnace blower shut down in about 15 seconds. IT DID NOT try again for one hour and again on about one hour cycle with no ignition/spark, 15 second blower shut-down and no diagnostic light. $400 plus board arrived and tech installed . Guess what - same problems on the new board. I expect Atwood is calling it obsolete due to design or component problems. Finally discovered mud dauber nest that could not be seen from outside. Since I installed screen within days of purchase - dauber nest probably in there on delivery. Furnace worked fine until we got to our summer spot at 8,000 feet. Thinner air coupled with small mud dauber nest resulted in sail switch failure to move enough ie. not enough air flow. So if you have the same board and your furnace will not ignite on first attempt and there is no diagnostic light you can wait one hour for it to try again or turn off heat, open outside furnace enclosure and reset system with the test/reset switch. If still under wty expect Atwood to treat you the same. Maybe - with more pressure - they will change the policy. Wonder how many like mine are out there?

Nanaimo 08-20-2016 10:49 AM

Hi Everyone!
Looking at purchasing a new 2015 37 GT. Dealer still has two of them. Any heads up you can think of or little things to try to get included.
Thanks to all in advance.
Going to have first look now, will let you know how it goes.
Thanks, Wayne and Maryann

KC 08-21-2016 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nanaimo (Post 3217297)
Hi Everyone!
Looking at purchasing a new 2015 37 GT. Dealer still has two of them. Any heads up you can think of or little things to try to get included.
Thanks to all in advance.
Going to have first look now, will let you know how it goes.
Thanks, Wayne and Maryann

I don't have a GT but I do have a 15 KT. My advice is go through it with a fine tooth comb. Make sure everything gets fixed. Also make sure any recalls get fixed!

Look at Magnashade for side window covers while driving. There flip shades work great. We don't use our accordion shades at all.

Good luck.

KC

ctpres 08-22-2016 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KC (Post 3218938)
flip shades work great. We don't use our accordion shades at all
KC

Re not using accordian shades. Don't understand how solar shades give privacy at night. The video does not explain.

KC 08-22-2016 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3220044)
Re not using accordian shades. Don't understand how solar shades give privacy at night. The video does not explain.

We don't find it an issue, it helps during the day and while driving to keep the heat and sun out of the front of the RV.

KC

wldracing 08-22-2016 01:00 PM

I have a 2015 Thor Challenger 35 HT

If you live on the West coast before you even step in the coach it already has at least 2000 miles.

Check windshield wipers are fully functional
Check that the Front end cap and front windshield are properly mounted.
Check that the Front and Back sway bar mounts are tightened to torque specs.
Check that the Leveling systems functions through all leveling functions
Check that the electric bunk moves up and down and stays level.
Check that both A/C units cool
Check that when you open the slides (if sink is in the slide) that it drains properly while extend or in the stow position (hose from drained can get crimped or even ripped off)
Check that the speakers from the radio in the bedroom A/B connect to the Bedroom and Outside (They had my dash stereo connected to the speakers on the outside...so when I was driving with the music on the music was playing outside.
Check that generator turns on and off from all locations-Make sure the oil and oil filter are changed before delivery
Check that all paint surfaces have no blemishes
Have them run the heater and A/C if saw dust blows out of vents ...have them clean it out.
Check that all your chairs if any (fold-able for dining) are functional with no cracks
Make sure that your factory ford chassis warranty starts on the day of your purchase not the day the dealer to inventory.

Take your time with the walk through...Have a complete checklist and take pictures, be prepared to crawl under the rv and check brake rotors, sway bars, shocks, etc. After the rv is leveled take a look that there is no damage to levelers or any portion of the leveling system. Check all fluids and engine oil, Tire pressure.

I have listed a few things that I had major issues with before I took delivery.

If you have issues document through email to the dealer all of your concerns, cc any and all parties so you have a paper trail. Remember you only have a 12 month factory house warranty. Get everything taken care of before the 12 months.

Within the 12 month period attempt to use your rv as much as possible to identify any issues that would only arise while dry camping, extended driving, or full hook up camping.

Good luck and stay after the dealer to get anything and everything fixed...Look to make a few trips back to the dealer.

Wes:dance:

https://photos.smugmug.com/Challenge...IMG_1844-L.jpg

happycamperj 08-22-2016 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wldracing (Post 3220499)
I have a 2015 Thor Challenger 35 HT

If you live on the West coast before you even step in the coach it already has at least 2000 miles.

Check windshield wipers are fully functional
Check that the Front end cap and front windshield are properly mounted.
Check that the Front and Back sway bar mounts are tightened to torque specs.
Check that the Leveling systems functions through all leveling functions
Check that the electric bunk moves up and down and stays level.
Check that both A/C units cool
Check that when you open the slides (if sink is in the slide) that it drains properly while extend or in the stow position (hose from drained can get crimped or even ripped off)
Check that the speakers from the radio in the bedroom A/B connect to the Bedroom and Outside (They had my dash stereo connected to the speakers on the outside...so when I was driving with the music on the music was playing outside.
Check that generator turns on and off from all locations-Make sure the oil and oil filter are changed before delivery
Check that all paint surfaces have no blemishes
Have them run the heater and A/C if saw dust blows out of vents ...have them clean it out.
Check that all your chairs if any (fold-able for dining) are functional with no cracks
Make sure that your factory ford chassis warranty starts on the day of your purchase not the day the dealer to inventory.

Take your time with the walk through...Have a complete checklist and take pictures, be prepared to crawl under the rv and check brake rotors, sway bars, shocks, etc. After the rv is leveled take a look that there is no damage to levelers or any portion of the leveling system. Check all fluids and engine oil, Tire pressure.

I have listed a few things that I had major issues with before I took delivery.

If you have issues document through email to the dealer all of your concerns, cc any and all parties so you have a paper trail. Remember you only have a 12 month factory house warranty. Get everything taken care of before the 12 months.

Within the 12 month period attempt to use your rv as much as possible to identify any issues that would only arise while dry camping, extended driving, or full hook up camping.

Good luck and stay after the dealer to get anything and everything fixed...Look to make a few trips back to the dealer.

Wes:dance:

https://photos.smugmug.com/Challenge...IMG_1844-L.jpg

I might add another item to your checklist. Make sure you stay within your weight limits on what you load on board and what you tow behind. Unless yours is different, you only have about 4,000 lbs. between what your coach weighs and your gross combined weight is. Your Challenger will pull more than that, but it will make a difference if you travel much out West, or if you have any issues with Thor or extended warranty problems that might come up related to the coach's components being overloaded.

071011sm 08-23-2016 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 3118804)
Two times, two Class "A's" with recurring problems. One Damon with leveling system and a Challenger with slide issues. Thor steped up to the plate both times and agreed to cover repairs. That kind of service is worth a thousand words. We remain faithful and happy Thor customers. If a step up to diesel is ever in our future - It WILL be a Thor product - no questions asked.

Took posetion of our new 37TB last month. A week later we took off on a 3 weeks trip across US/Can (ON-MT and back across Canada). Few issues along the way; slides were dead due to blown RapidCamp fuse. This is part of awning fuse and not labeled. Was Sunday morning and quick call to 1-800-THOR solved the issue.
We travel with toddlers and one was playing with switches located at the bottom where the stairs are. Not a smart location. This will prove to be a disaster few days latter. Set camp in SLC, UT. We learn after that toddler found genset on/off switch. We are connected to shore power at the same time! Few sparks latter from the Auto Switch we are now in trouble. AS is fused together to genset only position. Another call to Thor locates the issue and luckily AS wasn't fried. Duct tape and cardboard and temp switch cover was invented.
On another occasion steps self retracted as we were passing through toll booth. Blocking toll booth on interstate Hwy is not part of our plan. Another call to Thor fixes the issue temporarily but we were on our way.

Overall Thor customer service is simply amazing. Very professional and knowledgable. To actually have 24/7 emergency live help speaks volume.

Rsapp 08-24-2016 11:27 AM

Info on Access Panel under BR sink
 
I have a 2015 Challenger 37KT. As I was preparing to leave a campground I noticed water on floor under this panel. I was wondering if anyone had ventured into this access panel and if so what was behind that panel. Also I have tried a number of ways but I can't seem to keep the sewer odor from the bathroom area. I have done all the treatments at different time and no help. I did notice that when the exhaust fan is on it pulls the odor through the BR and it gets worse. I placed water in the black tank with cleaning chemicals RV people recommend and drove home hoping the agitation will help my issue.
Thanks for any assistance any of you may send.
That is not the first time it has been cleaned this way.

ctpres 08-24-2016 12:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsapp (Post 3223626)
I have a 2015 Challenger 37KT. As I was preparing to leave a campground I noticed water on floor under this panel. I was wondering if anyone had ventured into this access panel and if so what was behind that panel.

There is nothing but water and elec. wire under bathroom sink. My first guess would be hot water heater connections at the tank. Take bottom drawer out of night stand between bed and bath. If floor wet there and front end of coach was even a little downhill water could in fact be from water heater. Left side under bed storage has a removable panel for servicing water heater. The hot and cold connections are hand tightened. If one is wet a little extra turn will stop that. We had shower leaks but that could be seen around base of shower. I removed the front panel under sink and we use that space to store toilet paper. See https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post2365088 for picture

ctpres 09-02-2016 08:59 AM

How about sharing tips for using your Challenger. Anything that makes life easier, more comfortable etc. Here is a couple for KT owners
When days are longer and we want to sleep longer we close the rear bathroom door to keep out early morning light from the sky light.
When using furnace we keep front bathroom door closed and rear open. That forces heated air thru the bedroom and keeps the thermostat from cycling so often

--

sbleiweiss 09-03-2016 06:45 AM

A deflector on the register at the dining room also keeps the thermostat from cycling so often. And of course an adjustable register in the bathroom helps.

Another tip. I carry two water hoses; one 10 foot and one 20 foot. I use whichever one fits. And in the unusual case that I need longer I can attach the two to make 30 feet.

ctpres 09-05-2016 08:47 AM

One more Challenger comfort item. When only one a'cond needed we use the rear/bedroom a'cond during the day and the front at night. Much less noise and not much difference in air temp.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:22 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.