Containers on shelves in the cupboards don't seem to move. The shelving she has in mind would have some kind of barrier to prevent forward movement. I have until the late spring or early summer to formulate ideas. Ready made don't seem to be available. My criteria would be something contemporary and must be tasteful. I think I will be designing and building something.

UPDATE! LED's I used did not work out. They got very hot in the enclosed space. Double stick tape did not hold and one died. Used epoxy on the one good one. Will find suitable replacement and post when the second one dies.

Main TV mount question
 

I have a 2009 Challenger 371 (forerunner of the 37KT). I want to see if the main TV in the living room has an HDMI port but there is no way to access the back of the TV since it is recessed in the cabinet. Is there a trick to removing the TV from the mount? All I can see through the gap at the top are a row of screws holding the mount to the cabinet. I hope that is not the answer. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Howdy

I can't find the thread that detailed a popular front-end add-on for the Challenger to improve driving stability/control. A specific manufacturer/installer has been referenced several times and darned if I can find it now.

We're going to travel up Texas and across the Appalachians to Charlottesville, Va nd then back west to Montana this summer. About 35-40 days.

Also, does anybody have a link to plain english explanation on how to operate the radio/backup camera console? I can't see the image worth a flip when backing up and the radio controls are confusing as heck.

TIA, D2

I'm afraid that's what we had to do.

I bought some long forcepts from Harbor Freight to plug in HDMI cables into the side of the TV. Use a mirror to see where they are. If you don't have the manual from the TV, you can probably download it from the internet. That will show where all the input and outputs are. Hope that helps. :greetings10:

We had 2010 Damon 3211 and TV mount probably same. Not only row of screws at top but also along bottom. #2 square drive. TWO people needed after last top screw removed - very heavy. Recommend putting table under TV to hold it without disconnecting anything.

troutkiller.

We live in Colorado and sold our 2004 damon intruder 36" and have our eye on the 37YT as well. We also have a 2014 Rubicon X 4dr I'd like to tow (didn't tow with last rv).

How does the 37YT handle loaded up and towing jeep?
Does the inverter run the Fridge as well as entertainment systems...other plugs. O didnt have inverter before so we ran generator alot and hoping to avoid that in new one but we dry camp in the mountains alot. Ideally make a pot of coffee run tv/sat system for a bit then out doors and let solar bring batteries back to 100%

I plan to get the 4 batteries and quote a solar panel system for the roof to keep batteries up as much as possible...anyone have suggestions on solar?

Sounds like she is a little thirsty on the fuel but to be expected.

Any major issues to report since last post? Did you have the issue with some water leak on the slides?

thanks for sharing, Gary

Have you had any issues with the FD? I just purchased a 2013.

Frank McAbee

How to adjust full wall slide cable .
 

I have some play on bottom cable of slide by front door on 2014 37kt . When the slide is out its loose on the outside , in its loose on the inside. Can anyone help with this ?

Wiper problem solved!!!!!
 

Thank You! to all that reported their problem. Proves that the SYSTEM works. If you have moved since purchasing your rig - be sure Thor has current mailing address so you will get the recall letter. News story summary follows -


Thor Motor Coach is recalling 6,561 model year 2014-2015 ACE, Hurricane, Challenger, Daybreak, Miramar, Outlaw and Windsport motorhomes. The vehicles’ windshield wiper systems may have been improperly installed and secured, possibly causing the wipers to fail during use.

One indication of possible failure would be for the wipers to slow down, get entangled, or a shift in the sweep pattern.

Makes/Models/Model Years Included in the Recall
THOR/ACE/2014-2015
THOR/CHALLENGER/2014-2015
THOR/DAYBREAK/2014-2015
THOR/HURRICANE/2014-2015
THOR/MIRAMAR/2014-2015
THOR/OUTLAW/2014-2015
THOR/WINDSPORT/2014-2015

Thor will notify owners, and dealers will inspect and correct the wiper system as necessary, free of charge. The recall is expected to begin May 13, 2017. Owners may contact Thor customer service at 1-877-855-2867.

If your vehicle is included in this recall, it is very important that you get it fixed as soon as possible given the potential danger to you and your passengers if it is not addressed. You should receive a separate letter in the mail from the vehicle manufacturer, notifying you of the recall and explaining when the remedy will be available, whom to contact to repair your vehicle, and to remind you that the repair will be done at no charge to you. If you believe your vehicle is included in the recall, but you do not receive a letter in the mail from the vehicle manufacturer, please call NHTSA’s Vehicle Safety Hotline at 1-888-327-4236, or contact your vehicle manufacturer or dealership.

You probably need to adjust the cable tension. You or someone will have to remove the molding above the slide and adjust the tension on the cables.There are nuts connecting the cables to the chain connected to the motor. These need to be turned using a wrench.

Who knows that they have this?
 

I was talking to a fellow Challenger 37KT owner across from me and I was telling him about the first step mod. He lifted up his second step and asked me if I knew about that? Damn! I've had it almost a year and didn't know about that one!! Don't remember seeing it on here either. Please reply if this is news to you also. Not sure if it's just KTs, but I doubt it.

GT has it. We store things like flashlights, indoor/outdoor thermometers , extra batteries, or anything else that we want to keep in a handy place to open the door and reach in.

Its been talked about. I sense most people keep road related safety stuff in it; flares, etc. Too small for anything bigger.

We have it on our DT

The "step box" in our KT is our "junk drawer", flash light, screw driver, small hammer, adjustable wrench, duck tape, stapler, tie straps, etc.

Thinking of getting rid of LP! Thoughts?
 

After being on the road FT almost 10 months, we are thinking of removing gas burner and stove and the large LP tank. Use induction cook tp, convection/micro and a toaster oven. As for heat we have never needed more than the fireplace heater and a $10 space heater in the bedroom since we follow warmer weather as much as possible. In kitchen we would install 2 induction burners with storage for pots/pans underneath where the stove was. The basement compartment install a pull out tray for the gas grill with normal LP gas cylinder and some additional storage for outdoor cooking items. I am slightly paranoid about gas inside, as a kid our house had gas line explode and the house burn down, not good memories! Has anyone else done this or considered it?

Similar situation "including about ten months FT" and have considered induction cooking. Bought single burner for testing and DW not wanting to even try it so far. The only negative thing I thought about was need to always keep gas tank well above 1/4 full in case generator needed. Boondocking not on our list of things to do. We have two 1,500 watt electric heaters plus the fireplace and have been comfortable into the 40's without gas. But have used it to warm things up in a hurry in AM. At 9,000 feet in July things can be pretty chilly in the AM. I have not got that far in thinking about "all electric" so far. Glad you brought it up and plan to follow this discussion.

Hey everyone,
Just wanted to say I have read most of this thread and there is an amazing amount of information here, and yes it took me about a week to read the entire thing. Why did I spend a week reading this thread? Because I am a crazy researcher and strongly considering purchasing the challenger 37KT.

My fiance and I are strongly considering moving full time into an RV for a few years and we want to get the correct unit first instead of upgrading over time since we are planning on hitting the road next spring.

A couple of questions though, I have seen one person mod in a table in the kitchen area and using the desk, I like that idea but I am looking to see if anyone has done anything different? I work in IT currently and planning to still work on the road, so I need a desk, I would also like to avoid setting up and tearing down everytime. I'm considering removing the small corner counter under the TV in the dining area and building a small desk in that area. I have some ideas and think it would work for me but wanted to see if anyone else has setup a spot for a desktop computer?

Another question is cats...We have 2 cats and the litter box placement is an important consideration for us. in the shower does not seem like a good idea for us as we want it accessible both when stopped and when driving. Also dont want to mess with the moving it constantly. 2 places we were considering were in the bay in front of the steps...one person early in the thread was talking about that, but decided it would be a challenge cutting a hole from the steps to the bay. Has anyone done that successfully? My other thought was removing the fireplace, or taking the door off of one of the cabinets in the entertainment center and putting it there. Any other thoughts?

third. The weight limits on the 37KT, based on reading and searching the CCC looks to be in the 2000-2300 lb range, am I right on that? I know we wont be able to load up my collection of rocks but in general for 2 people is the weight limit enough and have you noticed any issues being close to weights? Yes we will be towing a car, probably similar to a honda fit, or maybe a CRV.

fourth, The challenger is a great motorhome and the 37KT is a great floorplan, but what do you not like about your rig?

Thanks everyone for your info and we will see about joining the group in the future!

I use table between driver and passenger for desk when camped. Most use the bay behind door for cat litter if in bay. We put it on floor in front of shower and move to shower. We love KT floorplan. My greatest dislike is probably the gas port in back instead of on side. Also the fact that the two grey tanks aren't connected or one larger one.

Good morning, this is in response to Fluffybunny (I had a little chuckle as I typed that!) As you noted the KT is a great floorplan for going FT. We are almost 10 months on the road and from a floorplan standpoint the only thing we would like to see Thor change is the bedroom. If the headboard was on a slide out it would increase the space greatly and with small windows on the side of the slide provide cross ventilation in nice weather.


BTW we are the folks who put the butcher block counter in the dinning area. It works great for us. We each have a desktop computer, one on the forward end of the butcher block and the other in the front on the passenger side dash. We don't teardown when traveling or entertaining. Just put a towel down and put it down flat for travel. Also on Sundays we usually host what we call a "Trailer-Trash Brunch" and use the butcher block counter for the buffet when the weather doesn't permit or we are lazy with the office end still in place. We also eat most meals in the captains chairs with the small table or outside.


Everyone seems to find what works best for them. One item that the KT floorplan provides very well is the separation of areas. I wake early and work in the front on my computer and watching "Morning Joe" and even with the door to the bedroom open sound does not travel to the bedroom (just the smell of fresh brewed coffee!). I attached pics of what the two stations look like this morning.


As for the weight issue we are fairly close to our weight max when we weighed all four corners, keep our tire pressure at 90 psi. Much of the weight is in the basement lowering the center of gravity and the coach drives so much better than when empty. Added Sumo Springs for stability and ride improvement and well worth the cost in our opinion.


We travel with a cocker so I will be no help on litter box location. But I would not remove the fireplace, it is our best friend on cold nights and cool mornings! With a small space heater in the bedroom we have only fired up the LP furnance once


All this being said, we spent lots of time and agonized over many different floor plans and we are very happy with our decision with the KT which works the best for us. Would we like a DP with air suspension, of course, but could not find a floorplan with a mid door that worked for us. We only travel around 3-4 days a month so the floorplan is a priority. We also rarely travel more than 150 miles a day and always stay put 3-10 days per stop. Our trick for travel days is two laundry baskets, put all the loose stuff in the baskets and store on the bed when rolling down the road.


Hope some of this helps but each of us will find what works best for their lifestyle. Ron.
https://ssl.gstatic.com/ui/v1/icons/...s/cleardot.gif

missing pics?
 

Not sure what happened to pics from this morning so I will try again! Ron.

Thanks so much for your input. The table between passenger and driver is a good thought I didn't think too much about using that one, I was more thinking the passenger pull out table up there but I would like to have my desktop setup and leave it. I was looking at that two grey tank thing, seems a little annoying in that you would have to hook up to multiple outlets to fully drain. Didn't think too much about the gas port, but I could see how that would be bothersome as well.

Thanks so much for your info Ron. Glad you liked my name, I used to play first person shooter video games and it has stuck since then. It would pop up and say player A was shot by a fluffy bunny(me) I shortened it to fluffy bunny. got a few laughs out of that back then too.

that butcher block idea table is a really good one and since you said you travel with your computers on that table..that might work out for us. As I mentioned I work in IT and I'm also a PC gamer(if you cant tell I'm younger than most people on here ;)) so having a spot for a desktop computer is really important to me especially one where I don't have to tear it down every time we move. I will have to look back at your posts to go over your install again and look out for all the details. I seem to remember you documented the install and parts pretty well which is very nice for those of us going back and looking at it later!

You mentioned you added the sumo springs, I was looking at those just the other day and they look very helpful, did you also do the CHF?

As for your agonizing over floor plans, thats where I am right now. I have spent at least 2-3 hours 3 or 4 days a week for the past 4 months looking over floorplans, youtube tours, and visiting a few dealerships trying to figure out what would work for us. the 37KT is our favorite. as you mentioned we love the separate rooms. That is really good to know that sound doesn't carry as much as I thought it would.

Thanks again for all of your info it really helps.

-Richard

This would put a slide over the water bay and electric bay. I would hate that. Agree that cross ventilation would be nice.

200K MSRP Challenger?
 

Prices for 2018's starting to hit the market - no pictures yet. I have seen $191K plus. Any bets what year or how soon Challenger will break 200? Sure will make it hard for salesmen to call it entry level!

Fluffy Bunny, used to play? If you're on Xbox One, look me up, FearThis123. I used to put the litter box in the shower but it was a pain moving and cleaning up. Now I keep it on the side of the bed in the back. It stays put and the cat can get to it anytime.

Dave, used to play FPS games, I still play games but on PC, really gotten into indie games and tycoons. Don't have the fast reflexes to be good at first person shooters anymore.

That is a good idea for the litter box, Didn't think about that, will have to add that to the list.

remove the cover, then remove the three screws pull straight down cut the black and white wires, replace with like unit. might have to get the whole puck assy as opposed to just the led wafer.

Yes thanks. We found them and have replaced 5. Bought enough to replace every light in the coach as need be. As I recall we found them for $5 each on e-bay.

More mods fixes and upgrades
 

#101 How I leveled our Challenger for leveling system calibration. Full timing means not always having the right tool for every job so we improvise a lot. In this case the end result is better IMO. Use fresh water hose as level. Fill with water and have helper hold one end at bottom edge of wall to basement trim line near front cap. Hold other end at*rear trim line (closer to rear cap the better) and refill with water moving end*up or down till hose full and no water running out of either end. Difference in distance from trim line is amount of change needed to make level. Say rear three inches below trim - will need to drop front three. Same for side* to side level just run hose under coach.

More mods fixes and upgrades
 

#102 One reported problem is popping jacks and I think I get it now. The most frequent possible solution mentioned is mounting bolts not torqued correctly. I just found this Lippert solution - https://www.lci1.com/assets/content/s...heets/0295.pdf Adding anti-stiction fluid on the Thor forum. After a lot of reading - adding stiction fluid solution to popping creaking jacks makes more sense than mounting bolt torque. Temp changes cause fluid to expand and contract. Eventually enough pressure change and ram or jack leg moves. If ram can not move (it is sticking in place) with small pressure changes, it will jump and pop when it finally does move. The pressure change could also be from weight transfer due to walking around inside. We frequently get jerky and uneven drops when retracting jacks. Freaks DW out it is so violent sometimes. The retracting problem helps me believe jacks are sticking. Anti-Stiction fluid is a special lub that helps overcome the sticking. So what I am doing to reduce popping: #1 Always add blocks to fill void between ground and jack pad before leveling. That reduces volume of fluid under pressure and consequently the impact of expansion and contraction due to temp changes. And it gives a more stable RV due to less room for flexing jack shaft. #2 Added "Maxima Fork Oil Grade 15" motorcycle fork oil - an LCi approved anti-stiction fluid. Just follow instructions in the link above to reduce the pressure needed for ram movement. The anti-stiction fluid will help with the walking around and retraction problems. I don't think it is possible to totally eliminate the popping but I know we have a much quitter coach. I used a large syringe for removing fluid.Turkey baster would work but could not use it again for cooking.

More mods fixes and upgrades
 

#103 Finally got our shower set-up to be more user friendly. Our faucet assembly was installed upside down, that resulted in frequent handle bumping and unexpected hot or cold water. Also put unnecessary stress on the hose. Now the hose hangs down and the shut-off valve is easier to reach on the bottom. The shower hose guide on the wall was removed for more reach with the hand held shower head and we added a 3m Command satin finish soap dish that mounts with water resistant command strips. Installed it between the two shelves. Commandâ„¢ Bath Satin Nickel Soap Dish So far the soap dish is the most appreciated addition. Lots of air around the bar so it does not sit in a puddle and get soggy.

Nice job!

Nice, I did almost identical the first week. I used a different soap dish. One that cups the soap so we can drive with it too.

I didn't remove the hose keper, but I pulled the hose out of it. I didn't want to leave holes.

I want to install an adjustable bar so we can angle the shower head as desired and my son can lower it to his height.

We get a little water leakage out of the door. When he showers it sprays over his head on the door and can make a mess. The bar will let it point down off the wall and lower to not go over his head.

Likewise. I wish ours had the two shelves you do. Thanks for the pix.

More mods fixes and upgrades
 

#104 This one is a "two-fer." For almost two years I have been looking for an elusive bump-bump that only happens during some quicker than normal stops. And once in awhile the windshield sun shade falls out of the track due to the bar being a bit short. During a recent stop I happened to be looking at the traffic light and saw the shade swing forward - fall back and bounce off the pillar cover that also acts as a track to the powered shade. I put some one inch sticky one side felt furniture pads on the ends of the bar. Only had half of the pad stuck on the end - the other half stuck out past the end making the bar longer. It works - no more bump-bump and shade stays in track.

More mods fixes and upgrades
 

#105 We keep our KantLeak selector valve in City Fixtures position at all times. Works fine on pump or city water modes with no valve changes required other that to fill fresh water tank. Recently I was replacing water hose gaskets and had city water shut off at the post. DW needed water and just turned on the pump as usual. Water started pouring out the city connection. Check valve failed. Put male hose plug on city water connection and kept on working. Could not see just exactly how city fitting was secured to panel. Even using camera I could not figure it out. Bought Valterra A01-0170LF White 2-3/4" MPT Lead-Free Flush Mount Water Inlet. To install I had to remove the KanLeak panel and disconnect at least three water connections in the rear before there was enough slack to see back of valve. No c-clip and no nut - bad news. Valve was secured with a push-on lock washer. The only way to get the valve out is to use a screwdriver and pry the lock washer off. NOT an easy job. Just a little work with a file to enlarge the hole and new valve slipped right in. Three screws and done. Disconnecting hoses was easy as they all were hand tight fittings. Just mark or somehow remember where each hose came from. Other than the lock washer it was an easy job. Buy a male hose cap for your plumbing box in case your valve fails. Cheap part to save a camping trip if your check valve fails. One pic shows old valve and lock washer. The other - the new valve.

Look at this shower caddy. It really does hold quite a bit of stuff. Uses command strip mounting. We used one for about two years with no problems.
Commandâ„¢ Bath Shower Caddy

We use one that hangs on the shower wall with a over door type hook at top of wall. Would be nice to have shelves like yours though.

Hey everyone, I ended up putting a deposit down today on a unit and starting to get all of my items I will need ordered. One question I have that I've never really figured out is how does everyone manage the dual grey tanks? Do you wye them together outside of the coach? Or do you move the sewer pipe when you want to empty the 2nd grey tank?

Also just wanting to make sure I'm correct, the kitchen sink + washer dryer if you ahve it would go on the front grey tank(the one by itself) and the shower bathroom sink go to the rear grey tank(one near the black tank)

Also any recommended brands for sewer hoses? and would you recommend that I get the hose support? This is my first RV so wanting to set myself up the best I can. I am for sure going to get the clear elbow to see when water runs clear when dumping.

On my 15KT the only thing that goes in the front Gray tank is the washer. Kitchen and bathroom both empty into back Gray.

KC

I would highly recommend having Thor send you your diagrams so you can see the glow and then doubling checking within the first couple of weeks.

When do model year prices typically change?
 

New to the forum and planning, within the next year or so, to acquire what will most likely be a used Challenger 37GT. This would be our first RV.

We have explored the 37GT pretty thoroughly online and walked in, sat in and poked and prodded a 2015 at a local RV show. We're hoping to acquire a "broken-in" 2016 at somewhat close to the current 2013-2015 prices, which seem to be pretty flat. With what appears to be a new model year just around the corner, might this be possible later this year or is that just wishful thinking?

Also, can someone elaborate on the transmission differences that started to appear between 2015 and 2016? I'm curious whether it's proven to be an improvement or just change for the sake of change.

Really enjoy the positive nature of this group and have picked up several helpful tips I hope to put to good use soon.

fluffybunny - your understanding of storage is correct relative to our Challenger 37TB. We have a bath and a half so we also have 2 black tanks - so that is 2 gray and 2 black tanks. When we are staying in place for more than 2 days, I will use the "Y" adapter and hook up 2 hoses. Using the "Y" is no problem, unhooking and cleaning is a messy operation. I carry a plug for the "Y" adapter that I use after flushing and walking the line down to the funky "Y". Remove the flushed line then and replace with the plug. As I said - Kinda Messy. I have a dual fresh water hose connector with quick disconnect and a "pocket hose" that I keep for flushing.

Using the hose support will depend on a few things:
1. Some campgrounds require.
2. Poor slope angle to the sewer connection.
3. Length of stay (again over 2).

We carry 3 10' Camco's and 2 15' Rhino's. When storing the Camco's in the rear compartment, I will use a five gallon Home Depot bucket to store and coil the Camco's. And I collapse and store the Rhino's in back of the sewer plumbing. So in the rear compartment, we have 3 Camco's, 2 Rhino's, a 25' hose support, "Y" connector, a plug and a wound up "pocket hose".

Hope all this helps.

2016 KT, no washer, the kitchen sink goes to the front tank, the bath sink and shower go to the rear. Keep the front grey tank, as that gets the most use, connected to sewer and only dump bath and black tank once a week or before a travel day. We rarely use the shower (except for dirty laundry) as the campgrounds we stay in usually have nice clean showers that are larger with more hot water. Would like to add a dishwasher drawer to the lower part of pantry but haven't done it yet.

I'm responding to two new posts in one. Only my W/D drains to the front grey tank. I do not use the slinkys, but many do. I have the older transmission, but read mostly positive things about the new ones. I believe there was a problem with towhaul not working right on the early new transmissions. Something to check if buying a newer used unit.

Six-speed transmission
 

Thanks for the warning. That would be just my luck. I'll research that topic more. Part of the reason I want to go with a coach used enough to have found and, hopefully, corrected major issues.

I realize this isn't Challenger-specific, so sorry if it's out of line. (It's just a remnant of the post about the use of Y-connections, etc.) I can see the need for different lengths, but any particular reason for the different brands of hose?

Thor challenger 2015 model 37nd
 

WE HAVE THOR CHALLENGER 2015 MODEL 37ND.... WE HAVE a leak under the sink vanity...

I checked the water pipes going to sink... no issue....

I will begin taking the cabinet apart in the morning... I was wondering if anyone else had a problem in that area or is they have the plans for the water pipes for the RV... thanks


Ed Agostini
Texased42@gmail.com
713 408 6239

If coach not level water could be coming from another place. Before taking things apart - look on both sides of vanity - dry things up and see what happens.

Home for the summer!
 

WOW - big news. Just settled in for the summer and found an orange wire on post next to our utilities. FIBER! Can't believe it. In the middle of nowhere, at 8,800 ft elevation, the nearest stoplight is over 40 miles away and we get fiber service. If you travels take you thru CO. this summer - stop by and visit us at Mountain views RV Resort, Creede, CO. Thor Diesel Club liked it enough to have mini rally here last year. They actually invited us even thou we buy gas. Maybe we can do another get-to-gether next spring at Tampa RV show Jan 17-22.

I have a 2012 Thor Challenger 37DT with three slides, 14500 miles . Interested in selling if anyone is interested. New washer/dryer combo never used, dual bathroom vanities, sealy posturepedic queen mattress, exterior entertainment center. Email: johnsonr2600@gmail.com

What's your asking price?

Asking 95,000. Showroom condition. Only used five times to florida. Has sony surround system, auto front sunshade/night shade, v10 gas engine, all bugs worked out. Expandable L shaped living room couch, half round dinette, fireplace, table between front seats, many extras.

oil pressure sensor
 

I have a 2014 37 KT and about 200 miles after a recent oil change The following happened. I had camped for a few days and was heading home and the low oil pressure warning came on and then went off after about 5 minutes of driving. I checked my oil and it was fine and drove home without any issues. I just completed another 900 mile round trip and had similar issues. I am positive it is a faulty sensor and was wondering if anyone had replaced one and how much it cost. The coach ran fabulous and even delivered 7.8 mpg towing a toad.

Thanks

Mark

Check and see if you have a Fram oil filter on your rig. They have been known to cause this very issue

It was a oil filter from NAPA with a generic #. I did check into that before.

Thanks

Hey veryone, thanks again for your help throughout this proccess. We picked up our RV Wednesday! We purchased from MHSRV in DFW and we are still here onsite getting used to the unit and having a few minor issues fixed. There has been nothing major AT all, but have most of the first trip bugs worked out now at this point, which is very nice before we even leave the lot. We have broken down camp a couple of times and driven it around to get used to it.

We are enjoying it a lot, my wife and I both are loving it.

There are for sure some mods and changes we are going to do, but we are taking it easy and getting used to it first. One thing I'm going to be doing in the near future is adding a switch for all of my dash gadgets, I have the TPMS already and will be adding a GPS later on, also want to hard wire in my siruis XM radio.

Has anyone added a shelf somewhere to mount all of your gadgets? or do you just use like 3M tape to mount items to the dash? The suction cup mounts don't work on that material on the dash. I have had motorcycles before and have a lot of RAM mount stuff, so I might try and figure out how to get a RAM mount bar or something on the dash.

https://scontent-lax3-2.xx.fbcdn.net...f2&oe=59AEA110

Congrats fellow Challenger owner. Go to tmcoc.org and join the Thor Motorcoach owners club

She's a beauty. Enjoy her.

Bob, I'm new to the forum and haven't learned how to post, hopefully you can answer a question for me> what 120v outlets are energized by the inverter and is the 12 volt plug by the passenger seat supplied from the engine battery or the coach batteries.

Thanks Robert McAbee
2013 Challenger 36 FD

Bob,
I'm not sure what outlets would be powered by your invertor. In my 2013 Challenger DT, the TV is powered and the outlet above our sofa near the TV, and I believe the outlet where my TV components are.

In our 37kt, the fridge and tvs are powered from the inverter. Plus one outlet by the passenger seat.

In the bedroom I can open the cabinent and have easy access to the tv plug. In the living room I had to remove the fireplace and plug in a power strip. Then put it in the cabinent by the tv. So our satalite, DVD player, and game systems can be powered.

Hey everyone, have a couple of questions for you.

1st, my 37KT is in service for a bit, getting washer dryer installed and a couple of minor things fixed. I didn't get a chance to take some measurements before I brought it in, can someone measure from the outside wall on the slide to the opening to the bedroom? Basically where that corner table is under the TV I need to know how long that wall is, I would really appreciate it if someone could tell me that.

2nd.
Planning for our full timing we are going to be spending thanksgiving to christmas home in Arkansas, one thing that I am concerned about is the water system freezing. In arkansas it can be anywhere from the 40s to 50s all the way down to to the 30s. We usually dont have any hard freezes or temps down into the 20s that time of year, and we will be heading further south before it gets really cold. What do we need to do to prepare for that? Its my understanding that the bays and water tanks are heated, but not sure how well that works.

Thanks for your advice and help.

Wall 26 inches
Freezing weather. I find very little if any heat reaching either wet bay when the propane furnace is running. I put our outdoor remote temp sensor in both bays when furnace was turned on and saw virtually no change after several hours. I bought two personal 200 watt space heaters for under $8 each at Walmart and connected them both to a 110 freeze switch (like DAYTON Freeze Protection Thermostat,120VAC, 48GP69, OR https://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovato...9N67NBY5QF8KNN ) that turns on at 40 degrees and back off around 50. I did not bother with heated fresh water hose. Just turn off park water and use onboard tank. We only had freezing temps in early AM.
If your washer dryer is a combo unit there is an unused 110 circuit avail that can be moved from behind wisher to dine area slide wall. That gives you a dedicated breaker controlled circuit just for electric heaters. We find two 1,500 watt heaters with occasional boost from fireplace good to upper thirty's. Only use propane in AM to get things warmed up quick. Enjoy your new Challenger and come see us in Creede.

If you're not as handy as Chuck (I'm not) an extension cord from your outside outlet under the MH and into the wet bay via the hose opening works for those electric heaters too. We just use one of them in the wet bay. A few hours below freezing and then warming up during the day is no worries. It is only extended below 32 that you have to worry about. If you do stay connected to park water just leave a slow drip overnight in one sink. It will keep your hose and the park water source from freezing down to about 20 outside anyway.

If you're talking about the dining room space it's 105 1/4"?

I tried to attach a blueprint from Thor for the 110/12 volt layout but it wouldn't go through. Message me with your email if you want it and I'll send it that way. BTW all, you can request prints from Thor anytime through customer support and they'll email you a pdf. I have a whole collection now from EVERY TIME SOMETHING HAS GONE WRONG WITH THIS pos! :facepalm:

Theater Seating Upgrade
 

I finally got rid of the uncomfortable factory theater seating in my 37KT. I went with a residential duel power reclining love seat. I went with the chocolate brown to offset the front seats. Got pretty lucky when I found this one with the stitching that matched the front seats. I did what I learned here on the thread with extending the slide floor out with ¾" plywood. I had to extend it out about 10". Wrapped the plywood extension and slide floor with 1"x4"'s to finish it off. I found some in stock carpet at the local box store that was a pretty close match to the carpet in the coach so I decided to wrap the slide floor in carpet, even though you only see the edges of it in my opinion it gives it a much more finished look. I am very happy with the outcome of the project. Love seat is super comfortable. Hear are a few pictures once i got it wrapped in carpet and the finished project with the love seat in place. I didn't take any of just the plywood extension because its been posted here before.


Attachment 165198

Attachment 165199

Attachment 165200

Attachment 165201



Sorry that a couple of the pictures are sideways, technical issues on my part I guess.

Eating up Batteries



I have 2014 37 KT which I have owned for since May 2013 . In those 4 years I have replaced the chassis battery twice and the alternator once. I now think my starter is bad and the chassis battery is done. The above replacements were covered under warranty .
I just replaced the house batteries on my own and now I'm having intermittent low oil pressure warnings on my dash. The coach runs great when it will start and I think the low oil pressure may have to do with the recent oil change. I keep my coach in a shed and have a trickle charger on the chassis battery and also plug the coach in to charge the house batteries. I also replaced the POS Jensen radio that drew power off the chassis battery .There is NO draw on the battery and Thor has no idea what it could be Is anyone else having similar issues

I would do another oil change ASAP. Wrong oil or even fluid, not enough, to much. Who knows but it would be cheap insurance. What does the oil pressure gauge say when low pressure warning shows up? Batteries always mysterious. Hope someone else can help with that problem.

Could be your oil pump is acting up. If you have sufficient oil I would have the oil pump checked.

Hi Don, A strange thing happened while reading your posts. When I got to page 8 the Adult Blocker on my computer kept me from going any further. Maybe it didn't think the Crapper Flapper was appropriate for kids. Just a guess. I'll finish reading your posts on another computer.
Your posts caught my attention because I purchased a 2013 Challenger 37DT three years after you purchased yours. I expect your posts will give me a lot of needed information when it comes to keeping the rig on the road.
My newest challenge has to do with slideouts. My galley slide will not go out. Maybe my coach batteries are not fully charged. I'll get them fully charged. Is there a way to manually push the slides in, in the event this happens when trying to check out of a campground?
Thanks for the great posts. Bob

Yes, the procedure is in one of the manuals about the slides. There is a control in each compartment where the slide is. You have to deactivate it.

John, How do you get to the slide motors? My kitchen slide will not go out. Bob

It's in your manual. If you don't have the manual let me know I'll pull mine out and text it to you

Extremely unhappy with Thor
 

Hey folks, I haven't chimed in in a while. I think the last time was after I got back from Indiana. Thor sent a driver to my home in Mashpee, Massachusetts to drive the 2016 37KT back to Indiana because the repairs needed were too much for CW in Berkley, Mass.
After repairs we're done we flew out to Indiana and drove the rig home. Some of the issues were the hydraulic system would come on in the middle of driving down the highway at speed, the windshield wipers would get tangled up, the usual too much heat in the bathroom and not enough in the living room, various leaks in Windows showers and sinks. It was another half a dozen things that I can't remember.
The main thing is that the coach drove down the road crooked. There's a few phrases for this issue, crabbing or some call it dog walking. This usually occurs after an accident, it's a giveaway that the frame is not square.
When Thor had it last year it Indiana they sent the rig to Ford, Ford sent the rig to a company called Quality Automotive to fix the crabbing issue. The problem is due to the rear axle not being perpendicular to the frame. When the fix was being done I tried to find out the approach they were taking, Unfortunately they would not tell me. They did not eliminate the crabbing although they did get it much better.

Well, this January I noticed the handling had gotten very sloppy. I had a friend drive and I got behind the rig and could see that the crabbing had gotten just as bad if not worse than it used to be and that the coach had a lot of swaying in the rear. I called the Thor and told them about it. Knowing the issue was serious Thor sent a so-called expert to fly out the Massachusetts to check it out. He drove behind me and then he drove the unit. I asked him what he thought and his words were and I quote "It's Crooked"
Thor had me bring it to a local truck repair shop in Mass. They discovered that the leaf springs had been twisted to compensate for the crabbing and a had bent the shackles and blown out the bushings. This damage was the result of the technique that Quality Automotive used to try to make the axle perpendicular to the frame. They simply loosen the bolts Twisted the axle and then tighten the bolts putting more torque then the bushings and metal shackles could take.
Thor did pay to have this fixed, but not before they blamed the damage on me. I installed a super steer track bar to help eliminate the absurd amount of rear sway the coach had and they tried to say the damage was caused by the trac bar. The mechanic told me there was no stress on the bar this problem was created by the technique that was used to adjust the axle. Thor decided to add a leaf spring on each side two help stiffen up the sloppy handling.
Unfortunately now the ride is ridiculous, the rear end is two inches higher than the front end in this a ridiculous amount of body roll and sway. Thor has refused to pay the money to fix this problem that they've created.
Not only do I still have the crabbing problem, I now have a RV that every time I want to set it up I have to lift the front wheels off the ground to inches just to get her level. My wife refuses to drive in it because she doesn't feel confident in the drive as well as it makes her sick from all the swaying back and forth.
Thor says it's a Ford problem, Ford says it's an altered chassis. Dealing with Thor has been frustrating and unrewarding.
I consider this the worst purchase of my life.
Marc DeNardo

Sounds like it is lemon law time.. or let the bank have it.

Hello Morazzi,
I have a 2012 Challenger 37DT and had one motor go out in my kitchen slide. I used the following link to get my slide back in:
I had to use the last step by taking out the motor set screw and lifting up the motor about a 1/4" to disengage it from the rack. This video doesn't really show you well how to do that. Hopefully the first method of unplugging the motor leads will do it for you. The motor control box will be in the basement compartment under that slide mounted on the ceiling of the bay. I will try to find the other videos I used to disengage the motors. I actually replaced the motor myself for very low cost. Saved me a 75 mile trip to the dealer and my deductible on my extended warranty was $100, plus the time they would have kept it. If you are somewhat mechanically capable, then this may be the way to go.

Morrazi,
I did find the other videos regarding the Schwintek slide motors I used:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xojUdPDWNS0
Also:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DviEbWT3lUo
If you do replace your own motor make sure you get the same model. Lippert makes 2 motors that look the same but have different gearing. I found a pair of new motors on Amazon Prime for $175. Now I have a back-up motor. Like I said, well worth my time and money and my rig was back on the road in no time. Hope all works well for you. I love my 37DT floorplan.

Marcdohc, sorry I missed you at Cape Cod Camp Resorts. I walked down to see you so we could compare notes and you had left. I did speak with your friends however and we would have had plenty to talk about! Maybe we'll meet sometime. Btw, your twin KT owner

I'd be talking to an attorney. That story is everybody's worst nightmare

37kt
 

Hi Dave, I saw your Rig sitting there, look like a mirror. I'm hoping yours drives straight down the road though. My friends told me they talk to you sorry I missed you.
Next time, Marc

Thank you
 

Thanks for your help. It looks simple enough to do. The hardest part is being able to read the front of the controller. I'm thinking about turning it and mounting so it can be easily read from the front. Bob

Broken Main Door Lock
 

Our main door lock broke today. It would not open from the inside or outside. Handles felt like they were working fine but the door latch was obviously still in place. Had to take the lock apart from the inside (after climbing in passenger side window). Then could see what wasn't working and could move it with a needlenose pliers to open the door. Taking the lock apart was very difficult because one of the three screws that holds it closed is blocked by the screen door. I managed to force it past the screen door or we would really have been in trouble. Thor's emergency line had no answers. Get it past the screen door or tear the door apart with a pry bar.

We are now only functioning by using the deadbolt. The other (main latch) is inoperable. I will need a new lock. Anyone else been through this?

This happened to us last summer. My wife was locked in but luckily I was close by. The original lock was no longer available but the replacement fit exactly although it had a rounded frame and so the paint had some white showing. Not too unsightly. I ordered the new lock from Amazon as the delivery was faster than what I was quoted locally.

Thanks Rascal. Maybe ours is still made (hoping). I am going to get the part number from Thor on Monday.

More Mods Fixes & Upgrades
 

# 105 We keep our KantLeak selector valve in City Fixtures position at all times. Works fine on pump or city water modes with no valve selector changes required other than to fill fresh water tank. Recently I was replacing water hose gaskets and had city water shut off at the post. DW needed water and just turned on the pump as usual. Water started pouring out the city connection. Check valve failed. Put male hose plug on city water connection and kept on working. Could not see just exactly how city fitting was secured to panel. Even using camera I could not figure it out. Bought Valterra A01-0170LF White 2-3/4" MPT Lead-Free Flush Mount Water Inlet. To install I had to remove the KanLeak panel and disconnect at least three water connections in the rear before there was enough slack to see back of valve. No c-clip and no nut bad news. Valve was secured with a push-on lock washer. The only way to get the valve out is to use a screwdriver and pry the lock washer off. NOT an easy job. Just a little work with a file to enlarge the hole and new valve slipped right in. Three screws and done. Disconnecting hoses was easy as they all were hand tight fittings. Just mark or somehow remember where each hose came from. Other than the lock washer it was an easy job. Buy a male hose cap for your plumbing box in case your valve fails. Cheap part to save a camping trip and your fresh water.

Slides Not Working
 

On my 2013 Challenger 37DT the galley and bedroom slides not going out. I did not see 12 volts at the controller. Should be a fuse problem? I've looked everywhere for slide fuses. Any ideas?

I'm not aware of any slide fuses, I also looked when I had my issue. Check your master on/off key switch at the slide control panel. Maybe you have a bad connection causing the slides to not function correctly. Also, did you disconnect the slide motor leads at the the controller box in the basement? If you did, make sure they are reconnected to supply power back to the motors. Hopefully this is useful.

PattyP
Member


Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
We have slideout problems too. We have a 2015 Thor Challenger and only have a problem with large bedroom slide. It makes a noise going in and out. Took it to Camping World shop and they say it is a 20 hour repair job! Extended Warranty Company says they will only pay for 10 hours of labor will leave us with over a $1200.00 repair! Plus $50.00 deductible! What can we do?

:sad:PattyP
Member


Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 48
We have slideout problems too. We have a 2015 Thor Challenger and only have a problem with large bedroom slide. It makes a noise going in and out. Took it to Camping World shop and they say it is a 20 hour repair job! Extended Warranty Company says they will only pay for 10 hours of labor will leave us with over a $1200.00 repair! Plus $50.00 deductible! What can we do?

Your problem sounds like it could be a frayed cable. I recently had mine repaired by a family owned dealer. Took them approximately 4 hours. Mine was covered by warranty. My experience with CW has been slow service and high prices. You may want a second opinion.

20 hours labor on a slide sounds like a lot. Just replaced the motor and gear box on ours, plus adjustments to make it run in and out smoother. Total 3.5 hours.

Do you have the cable system in the bedroom slide. If so you may want to ask Larry Lyons here on IRV2. Here has done work on that slide himself.

Slideout problems
 

It is the cable system that has the problem.

Look up Larry and send him a message

Goodbye ACE 29.2. Hello 2013 Challenger 37GT next week.

The couch was replaced with 2 comfortable recliners and 2 end tables and lamps. Now, a question. Does anyone know if the setup in the photo is a factory option or do you think the previous owner install this themselves? Having this does away with a spare bed but we really don't need it since we never travel with anyone else.

Don't think that was factory. Chairs look too nice. Welcome to the Challenger family