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-   -   Thor Challenger Owners Unite! (https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor-challenger-owners-unite-150811.html)

bronk 03-26-2013 06:26 PM

V-10 Mileage
 
John, As I stated in a previous post, the gas mileage on this trip to Gulf Shores, AL was under ideal conditions, ie; no idle time due to accidents, construction and the like, no dash air to compromise mileage, very few hills once out of northern AL and lastly no time constraints to meet, thus a constant speed of around 62-5 mph. I usually don't do this well (over 8 mpg), so this was a pleasant surprise. Usually when we go to FL or to Maine we have stop and go, as well as times when we have to run the genny or the dash air. Overall, I am quite happy to get close to 8 mpg during those times. IMHO, I don't feel that modifications such as headers or other add-ons justify their high price for product and installation, but to each his own. I am a die-hard Chevy (GM) consumer, but have to admit the Ford V-10 is impressive!

Ron (Bronk)

john109 03-26-2013 07:11 PM

Ron, All things considered 8 is a great number I have a few friends running F-350 pick up trucks not doing much better. Some have said they get 8-10 mpg. So if I can get 8 out of my RV and towing the jeep I will be happy. Now if we can just get the price of gas to come down and things would be great. I just paid $3.70 a gal. today on the cape. I saw a story on the news a week or so back and they were talking about the price of gas in Venezuela it was under a nickle a gallon. Imagine putting 80 gallons in at .05 cents a gallon.:bow::bow::bow: Oh well don't think I will ever get to enjoy that one.

Jim I think Don is bringing up the M.A.G. I think it's a great idea.

camaromance 03-26-2013 08:40 PM

M.A.G. is a great idea. I'm wide open all summer. Haven't made plans past April.

Jimmy D 03-27-2013 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1491029)
Real nice! Thanks for the "Plug" (get it?) :rofl:

Here it is installed. I'm diggin this much better with the stainless hardware!


Do you have your city water hose exit through the same hole as the waste hose? I still have the black tube attached on my Challenger and cant figure out the intended way the water hose should exit the bay with the bay door closed with out drilling a hole.

DGShaffer 03-27-2013 12:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy D (Post 1510483)
Do you have your city water hose exit through the same hole as the waste hose? I still have the black tube attached on my Challenger and cant figure out the intended way the water hose should exit the bay with the bay door closed with out drilling a hole.

I haven't been camping in this thing yet but the plan was that they both fit through the one port. I would imagine that if you continue using their storage pipe that you would just close the door on the water hose

DGShaffer 03-27-2013 12:19 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Here's my idea for the Gas grill mount. I'll have the MH at the house this weekend to finalize the dimensions but I should have a working prototype installed by next weekend

bronk 03-27-2013 01:43 PM

Great Posts!
 
Keep those ideas coming! Creative ideas and applications for modifications for the Challenger are most interesting. Although our floorplans may differ with the various models, many adaptations will work with any layout. As for the price of gas; I paid as little as $3.39 last week in AL and TN with the price here in KY (today - Wed) at $3.43 a gal. I always seems to run higher in the Northeast, especially CN and MA.

As for a "meet and greet" session this summer; we will be in the Bangor, Maine area for most of June and July, so if any of the Challenger United group would like to come to the area, I would be more than happy to recommend campgrounds and/or make reservations, etc. I realize that it is sort of out of the way for some of you, but Maine is really great weather-wise for the 2 DAYS of summer, July 4th and 5th! Just a thought!

Ron (Bronk)

DGShaffer 03-27-2013 06:45 PM

I just found my old Outlaw on the internet for sale at Camping World in Lakewood, NJ. She's pretty clean if you know anyone looking for a class A toy hauler :dance:

Used 2008 Damon Outlaw Class A Gas Motorhomes For Sale In Lakewood, NJ - LAK473977 - Camping World

bdickson 03-27-2013 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronk (Post 1510552)
Keep those ideas coming! Creative ideas and applications for modifications for the Challenger are most interesting. Although our floorplans may differ with the various models, many adaptations will work with any layout. As for the price of gas; I paid as little as $3.39 last week in AL and TN with the price here in KY (today - Wed) at $3.43 a gal. I always seems to run higher in the Northeast, especially CN and MA.

As for a "meet and greet" session this summer; we will be in the Bangor, Maine area for most of June and July, so if any of the Challenger United group would like to come to the area, I would be more than happy to recommend campgrounds and/or make reservations, etc. I realize that it is sort of out of the way for some of you, but Maine is really great weather-wise for the 2 DAYS of summer, July 4th and 5th! Just a thought!

Ron (Bronk)

And we will be resident in Bandon Oregon from this Sunday through Labor Day, volunteering for US Fish & Wildlife Service and Oregon State Parks. Come find us in site B28 at Bullards Beach State Park.

DGShaffer 03-27-2013 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1510792)
And we will be resident in Bandon Oregon from this Sunday through Labor Day, volunteering for US Fish & Wildlife Service and Oregon State Parks. Come find us in site B28 at Bullards Beach State Park.

Full timing and lovin it! Way to go :dance:

bdickson 03-27-2013 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1510857)

Full timing and lovin it! Way to go :dance:

Yep, it's a tough life but someone has to do it! The Challenger 37GT is proving itself ideal for two people full timing.

bdickson 03-27-2013 10:23 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Jimmy D (Post 1510483)
Do you have your city water hose exit through the same hole as the waste hose? I still have the black tube attached on my Challenger and cant figure out the intended way the water hose should exit the bay with the bay door closed with out drilling a hole.

here are pictures of my solution.

DGShaffer 03-28-2013 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1510996)
Yep, it's a tough life but someone has to do it! The Challenger 37GT is proving itself ideal for two people full timing.

I'm glad it's you! Can I assume you still have a conventional home or did you sell everything and hit the road?

My wife and I bought a house in Tennessee about 25 minutes west of the Smoky Mountain National Forrest about a year and a half ago. At first I was trying to find a place with room for an RV but more preferred a place in the hills with a mountain view and finding one with road access for a class A proved futile. When we decide to retire we hope to be able to spend 9 months traveling and 3 months enjoying the home. But you know the old saying "The only thing in life that stays the same, is that everything changes!"

Best wishes for a long, healthy and happy retirement :flowers:

bdickson 03-28-2013 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1511233)

I'm glad it's you! Can I assume you still have a conventional home or did you sell everything and hit the road?

My wife and I bought a house in Tennessee about 25 minutes west of the Smoky Mountain National Forrest about a year and a half ago. At first I was trying to find a place with room for an RV but more preferred a place in the hills with a mountain view and finding one with road access for a class A proved futile. When we decide to retire we hope to be able to spend 9 months traveling and 3 months enjoying the home. But you know the old saying "The only thing in life that stays the same, is that everything changes!"

Best wishes for a long, healthy and happy retirement :flowers:

Nope, sold the house just over a year ago. Some furniture in a storage pod but other than that we are completely full timers.

DGShaffer 03-28-2013 01:32 PM

Yer livin' the dream! Happy trails!

camaromance 03-28-2013 04:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1510784)
I just found my old Outlaw on the internet for sale at Camping World in Lakewood, NJ. She's pretty clean if you know anyone looking for a class A toy hauler :dance:

Used 2008 Damon Outlaw Class A Gas Motorhomes For Sale In Lakewood, NJ - LAK473977 - Camping World

Don, that is too weird. When I was at the dealer looking at my paint job on my KT, I noticed a very familiar looking class c in the next bay that was getting the rear window fixed. It was my old chateau which had sold a few months earlier. It was strange to see both of them there at the same time. I told the tech, I guess it was their day to work on all my broke stuff. It seems I felt like there was still a part of me left in the old one and I kinda missed it a little. That and I couldn't stand to see how dirty it was.

Too funny...

DGShaffer 03-28-2013 05:45 PM

I'm still hopeful that someone local will but it and show up over on the I Love My Damon Outlaw thread so I can tell them all about it's history. :flowers:

DGShaffer 03-29-2013 06:42 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I figured I post these photos for the de-winterizing of our ice makers. The tech that did my PDI showed me how to make a power cord to energize the solenoid in order to flush out the antifreeze as well as to allow you to winterize it with antifreeze. There's a 110 outlet right near the access to the outside of the refrigerator that I used to power the solenoid. I took a spare extension cord and cut the end off to allow me to crimp on two female spade connectors. You simply pull the plugs off the solenoid and connect the 110 power direct and water flows with the refrigerator off.

camaromance 03-30-2013 12:21 PM

Don, that's a nice mod. Wish I had an ice maker so I could use it.

All, Thor just put out a bulletin regarding the fresh water tank overflow. I had an issue with the vent hoses siphoning the fresh water tank dry while on the road. It happened to me a couple of times last season. It was less than awesome to have no fresh water when dry camping after a long day of driving and staying at a truck stop. I ended up clamping the hoses with some vice grips until we got to where were going. The dealer tried to come up with a fix but it didn't work. The system has now caught up to the problem and Thor released a fix that routes the overflow hoses from the fresh water tank all the way to the back shell of the coach, up a few feet and back down to dump out just below the back shell of the coach.

You may want to check on this with your dealers or get some vice grips if you plan on traveling with fresh water. I found that it makes no difference the level of water, it would siphon it bone dry and then air bind the fresh water pump.

I also need to let you know that if you do clamp your hoses, PLEASE REMEMBER TO UNCLAMP THEM BEFORE YOU FILL THE FRESH WATER. If not, it WILL explode and most likely total your mo-ho. The damage will be catastrophic. I seen the damage on diesel pusher and could not believe what I saw. The floor had pushed up a good two feet and pushed the walls through the roof of the coach.

DGShaffer 03-30-2013 05:48 PM

I've sanitized my entire system including the three sections of fill hose I use. Once the bleach did it's thing I filled and emptied the tank and lines at least three times using the water pump and tank drain valve. Having done that, when filling the tank I employed both over fill lines on the tank and once the water got to a level out of reach of the ports they stopped draining on each fill.

It's hard to imagine how they could siphon all the water out unless they had dip tubes running to the bottom of the tank. Am I missing some other way in which this could happen? Did the tank manufacturer construct the tanks with dip tubes to the bottom of the tank thinking that those were fill ports rather than vents?

bdickson 03-30-2013 09:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1513643)
I also need to let you know that if you do clamp your hoses, PLEASE REMEMBER TO UNCLAMP THEM BEFORE YOU FILL THE FRESH WATER. If not, it WILL explode and most likely total your mo-ho. The damage will be catastrophic. I seen the damage on diesel pusher and could not believe what I saw. The floor had pushed up a good two feet and pushed the walls through the roof of the coach.

I gotta jump in here. This sounds like an urban legend. In the first place water is not a compressible medium. The most pressure that could exist in the tank is whatever the campground spigot provides, typically 40 or 50 psi at most. This is the pressure that exists in all the pipe work. Secondly, there is a corrugated overflow hose beside the gravity fill port, so there is no way the tank could become pressurized enough to cause damage like you describe.

camaromance 03-30-2013 11:17 PM

Well I know what I saw so its not an urban legend. I'm not the only one either. If you block off the vent hose and try to fill your fresh water tank, the air displaced by the water going in has nowhere to go until, that is, the tank decides to rupture.

https://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/fres...nt-145374.html

"We did a $30K repair on a coach who installed a ball valve in the drain line to prevent siphoning from his tank"

It's not the pressure, it's the volume of water that does the damage. A 3/4 inch hose at 60 lbs is not that big of a deal. 75 gallons at even 45lbs of pressure in a plastic water tank is another story.

camaromance 03-30-2013 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1513917)
I've sanitized my entire system including the three sections of fill hose I use. Once the bleach did it's thing I filled and emptied the tank and lines at least three times using the water pump and tank drain valve. Having done that, when filling the tank I employed both over fill lines on the tank and once the water got to a level out of reach of the ports they stopped draining on each fill.

It's hard to imagine how they could siphon all the water out unless they had dip tubes running to the bottom of the tank. Am I missing some other way in which this could happen? Did the tank manufacturer construct the tanks with dip tubes to the bottom of the tank thinking that those were fill ports rather than vents?

Don, I have no idea. It happened to me twice and I'm not sure how the vent hoses are attached to the tank. But once the suction starts from the vent hose, it drains it completely. Could be only on he KT, but I have read about others having the same issue.

bdickson 03-31-2013 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1514207)

Don, I have no idea. It happened to me twice and I'm not sure how the vent hoses are attached to the tank. But once the suction starts from the vent hose, it drains it completely. Could be only on he KT, but I have read about others having the same issue.

This must be unique to the KT. On my GT the fresh water tank is on the door side just in front of the back wheels. There are two half inch overflow tubes attached at the top corners of the tank. They do not have internal tubes so there is no way they could siphon. I know they work because a few days ago I set the lever to pressure fill and forgot about it. The tank filled and water started pouring out the overflows. I guess there are two pipes so the overflow is twice as large as the inlet, that way there is no possibility of over pressuring the tank. Camaromance, you are correct, I forgot about the volume of air trapped in the tank which would get compressed if the overflows were blocked. On my coach I also have a gravity fill directly above the tank, and it has a one inch corrugated overflow hose.

DGShaffer 03-31-2013 09:47 AM

Same here with the two vent tubes. During my de-winterizing process I over filled the tank at least four times and the same thing happened and the water stopped flowing as soon as it drained past their reach. Thanks for the heads up Jim!

A vessel not designed to contain pressure can explode with as little as 3 PSI depending on a host of factors. The wall thickness of these tank mean they could take 30 to 40 PSI berore they let go but in that time they are quickly trying to turn from square to round and exerting pressure equally from all sides. I can imagine the destruction that Jim described in that incident without any problem at all.

bdickson 03-31-2013 10:10 AM

Ok, change of topic. We spent the last 2 days at Hendersons of Grants Pass Oregon. Originally just to get the coach 4 corner weighed and to look at steering dampers. I had heard of their Road Performance Assessment and decided to go ahead with it. What we got was a thorough inspection of the underside (I was in the pit with the technician), an alignment check, 4 corner weighing and a 15 mile road test. We ended up getting a Safe T Plus steering control with Air Trim, Roadmaster front and rear sway bars and a SuperSteer rear track bar. The alignment toe in was off by .5 of an inch (the tech could detect feathering on the front tires after only 3,500 miles). The weigh in was good, we are within 100 pounds left to right on the rear and 50 pounds on the front. The only worrying number was total GVW which was 22,350. I'm not too concerned since we had an almost full gas tank and fresh water over half full. Together these account for almost 1,000 pounds. Based on the actual weights the tech recommended tire pressures of 90 front and 95 rear. We drove 280 miles on I-5 in Oregon yesterday through some very mountainous territory and I have to say the difference in handling is nothing short of incredible. Now for the 5 Star Tune when the package arrives from Mike.

DGShaffer 03-31-2013 11:21 AM

Wow Bruce, that sounds incredible! I've never heard of them or that type of service before. Food for thought.

camaromance 03-31-2013 11:27 AM

Through our discussions on water tanks, I have discovered a good data point. If I overfilled my fresh water tank to the point it was coming out of the overflows, it would continue to siphon all the water out every time. If you guys aren't having that issue, then there must be a difference between our coaches. My 2013 KT was one of the first off the line. I bought it in May of 2012. Thor probably figured it out and corrected it.

DGShaffer 03-31-2013 11:58 AM

I'd bet that if you could blow into your over fill tubes you would see bubbles at the bottom of the tank. I would try pulling the threaded fittings that the over fill tubes connect to and see if they have the siphon tube connected to it. If they do than the fix is simply to cut it off and screw it back in. If not, that would mean that it's welded to the fitting that's on the tank. Depending on the room you have up top, if you could remove the plastic pipe fitting and get a drill in there at an angle and drill a small hole in the tube towards the inside of the tank that would be enough to keep it from starting a siphon

DGShaffer 03-31-2013 12:04 PM

We spent our first night in ours last night. Although it was in our driveway it was a good experience. I got a chance to verify that everything works as it should.

I found that the drain from the washing machine has a small leak to the outside that needs fixing and my wife didn't rinse all of the Vinegar out the Kurig coffee maker after she cleaned it.

Other than that, everything worked as it should have so I'm confident that our weekend trip next week will go smoothly.

bdickson 03-31-2013 06:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1514673)
my wife didn't rinse all of the Vinegar out the Kurig coffee maker after she cleaned it.

.

That would be grounds :-) for divorce in our "house".

bdickson 03-31-2013 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1514615)
Wow Bruce, that sounds incredible! I've never heard of them or that type of service before. Food for thought.

I had heard of these guys but hadn't realized just how experienced they are on RV and truck steering and suspension. They came up with the designs for most of the SuperSteer products. Fwiw I asked Robert the owner about the Cheap Handling Fix. He had heard of it, but was very cautious in saying that he felt it could cause long term problems like premature bushing wear, and the possibility of a broken sway bar or link which, although not catastrophic could be serious depending on where the broken pieces got jammed. In his opinion the extra holes are NOT for adjustment, but are there on the front because up until a few years ago Ford put a Z bracket on the front as well as the back.

opcop 04-01-2013 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1514620)
Through our discussions on water tanks, I have discovered a good data point. If I overfilled my fresh water tank to the point it was coming out of the overflows, it would continue to siphon all the water out every time. If you guys aren't having that issue, then there must be a difference between our coaches. My 2013 KT was one of the first off the line. I bought it in May of 2012. Thor probably figured it out and corrected it.

Hey Camaro, my 2012 DT did the same thing. I filled my fresh water tank up until it reached the overflow, but the water did stop coming out originally. By the time I left the high desert in Yucca Valley to the Inland Empire in Rancho Cucamonga, I lost half of my fresh water due to a siphon issue. When I finished that trip I remedied the problem. I went to Home Depot and bought 2 plastic garden hose threaded inserts (used to repair old hoses) and secured them to the ends of both overflow tubes with small hose clamps. I also bought 2 screw on hose caps to seal each overflow. When I fill up the fresh water tank I take the caps off so I don't rupture the tank from pressure build up and then screw them back on when I travel so I don't lose water. It was a cheap fix and works great.

opcop 04-01-2013 01:14 AM

Just got back from my first trip after having my 37DT at Giant RV for 6 weeks doing warranty work. We took our RV up to Big Bear Lake, elevation about 7500 feet, for Easter weekend and my Challenger did great up and down the mountain. My only issue was the shower. Never had an issue with it before, but when I turned it on water began to puddle on the floor in the bathroom coming from under the shower pan and heater vent panel. I finally isolated the problem, it was the stupid plastic water diverter tee inside the faucet that had split down the seam of the tee. The water was filling up inside the faucet handle cover and the water came back out the back and down the interior wall. Had to use the old pitcher of water method to take a shower. I was using a 40 psi water regulator so it wasn't the water pressure. Darn thing just decided to split. I researched the internet and found that our shower faucet is made by Dura Faucet and you can buy the part through them for $8.95. I bought 2, so I have another one as a back up just in case. I checked the warranty from Dura Faucet and it states that they won't warranty the part if it was installed by an RV manufacturer, only if you bought it from them direct. And I'm not dropping off my RV at the dealership again for warranty repair because they will have it for a least 2 weeks and the gas there and back. So I just bought the darn things. Little things like this are a PITA, but at least it's minor. Hope this helps everyone out as an informational update.

DGShaffer 04-02-2013 06:23 AM

Do any of you know if you can adjust the flow rate on the foot flush toilet? When I had mine hooked up to the hose at my house this past weekend I noticed that there were times that the initial release of water was so fast that it ran up over the edge of the bowl. I'm hoping that there's an internal adjustment somewhere.

camaromance 04-02-2013 08:09 PM

Hey, Don. You must have good water pressure like I do. Mine does the same thing when I'm at home. I don't know of any way to adjust it unless you install a valve in the hose before the toilet to regulate the flow. I try not to push down on the flush valve too fast or all the way when I'm at the house.

I got my KT back today from the dealer. Only two things left on the punch list to fix and the slide isn't one of them. It's a very good thing I asked them to look at it. One of the cables for the forward retract had become loose and twisted. If they had not looked when they did, it only had a couple of more cycles before it would have bound up and broke leaving me stranded with a slide I couldn't retract. If you have the full body slide like I do, the tech said it should be adjusted in the first year and once every couple of years thereafter due to the cables stretching. Man, I am so glad I had them look at that.

DGShaffer 04-03-2013 06:23 AM

I'll see what it's like at the campground this weekend I guess an inline pressure regulator at the inlet might be in order.

I'm glad to hear you caught that. I don't have a full wall slide and from the link John posted about how to manually retract my slides, I don't think I have a cable system. Is this an adjustment you can do yourself or does it have to go back to the dealer for adjustment and inspection?

Regarding my Coleman grill slide out tray, I finished designing it over the weekend and I installed it last night after work. It fit as I planned but now I have to attach the grill. I've been having good luck using industrial strength adhesive backed Velcro so I'm thinking this would be a good way to attach it. There are no good ways to screw it down because of the slide out surfaces on the grill, they would get caught up on any screws that were attached to it. But so far it goes in and out just as I planned. I'll have photos once I mount the grill and fire it up.

This thing is pretty heavy and I found myself not spending the time and effort to get it out and set it up on our short weekends so it doesn't get used as often as I like. The Coleman Road Trip grill is more of and extension of the range top in the kitchen so any real cooking I do I tend to do over the camp fire. It's good for breakfast and heating side dishes more that grilling.

I'm so excited my nipples are hard :2funny:

DGShaffer 04-03-2013 05:51 PM

6 Attachment(s)
OK, so I couldn't wait for the weekend :D The silver bracket was an after thought, it catches the frame so it can't slide towards the door and dent it

bdickson 04-03-2013 07:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1518529)
OK, so I couldn't wait for the weekend :D The silver bracket was an after thought, it catches the frame so it can't slide towards the door and dent it

So are you going in to business? I'd buy one!

camaromance 04-03-2013 08:07 PM

Don, that is nothing short of amazing. To be able solve issues like that...that is really something. Is your propane tank near by or do you use the portable bottles?

Your grill looks brand new. Mine has A LOT of miles on it. I was going to get a new one but couldn't justify it. It works as good as the day I bought it. I use mine for everything. Clean up has always been a pain.

The cable slide system is easy to identify. If you put out your slides and see 3/8" wire rope attached to the four corners, then you have the accu-slide system. Only my full body slide is that way. The other two slides are like yours. I would be hesitant to try and adjust them myself without going to the class in Indiana. It only takes an hour to adjust it if you know what your doing. Unfortunately, I don't. I have read about a lot of issues with this system. However, the tech said as long as I pay attention, I'll notice when something isn't right, bring it in and get it adjusted and it shouldn't be a problem. The other advice he gave me was to never put the full-body slide out unless the coach is level with the jacks down. It weighs too much to do otherwise.

camaromance 04-03-2013 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by opcop (Post 1515363)
Hey Camaro, my 2012 DT did the same thing. I filled my fresh water tank up until it reached the overflow, but the water did stop coming out originally. By the time I left the high desert in Yucca Valley to the Inland Empire in Rancho Cucamonga, I lost half of my fresh water due to a siphon issue. When I finished that trip I remedied the problem. I went to Home Depot and bought 2 plastic garden hose threaded inserts (used to repair old hoses) and secured them to the ends of both overflow tubes with small hose clamps. I also bought 2 screw on hose caps to seal each overflow. When I fill up the fresh water tank I take the caps off so I don't rupture the tank from pressure build up and then screw them back on when I travel so I don't lose water. It was a cheap fix and works great.

Nice. That would suck showing up in the desert with half the water you thought you had. The dealer installed the mod from Thor. I'll know in a week if it fixes it.

DGShaffer 04-03-2013 08:38 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks guys, I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. It's too heavy and big to ship but I'd turn over my detailed drawings to anyone that could fabricate one for you. It's made out 1" square x 1/8" wall steel tubing, a little 14 gauge sheet for the mounting angles and gussets, 2x 24" long 1/2-13 all thread, 4 Alcatel bearings, and electricians Unistrut for the glides. It took about 6 hours to design/evaluate and detail, 5 hours to make, and a whopping 15 minutes to install.

The propane is in the next bay and I've been using an Extend-A-Stay fitting to get fuel to the grill since I've had it. It's much easier that way. That grill is three seasons old, I don't use it on every trip but it's been used at least 50 times. I use simple green and spray nine to clean it.

I think that any motor home with slides should be level and supported by the leveling jacks before the slides are put out as a rule. There's too much frame twist to think otherwise. I wonder how much testing was done before they threw a system like that in to their coach. Sounds to me like they're now saying "what do we do now?". Letting the end user pay the price of maintaining and repairing cables just doesn't seem right to me. If they fail, can you run it in manually if it's an emergency?

camaromance 04-03-2013 09:57 PM

Don, the slide has two cabling systems, one for extending and one for retracting. The reason it was developed was to save space. The entire system is very compact. Thats how they were able to design the full body slide as big as it is. It's like they designed the slide first and then developed this system as an afterthought when they discovered the conventional slide systems were too big or not powerful enough to reliably operate it. I'm stuck with it and I guess I'll always hold my breath now when I'm using it.

bronk 04-05-2013 02:17 PM

Fresh Water Tank Leak
 
First, Don, many kudos for a well thought-out design and build for the grill!! Now, "United Challenger Owners"! I have a serious leak in my fresh water tank ( a 2011 Challenger 3710). I looked at the tank today to see if there is some way to remove it and replace it with a new one from Thor. I don't see how to get the tank out of the space. There doesn't seem to be enough space between the upper edge of the door opening for the tank to fit through the door space. There is a block of wood that helps secure the tank that is attached by screws and this looks easily removed, but there is a metal cross piece that won't allow the tank to be dropped enough to exit the space. Any owners with advice or knowledge of how to get this tank out would be appreciated. I hate going to Elkhart to get this done if I can manage it myself.

Thanks in advance, Ron (Bronk)

camaromance 04-05-2013 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronk (Post 1520704)
First, Don, many kudos for a well thought-out design and build for the grill!! Now, "United Challenger Owners"! I have a serious leak in my fresh water tank ( a 2011 Challenger 3710). I looked at the tank today to see if there is some way to remove it and replace it with a new one from Thor. I don't see how to get the tank out of the space. There doesn't seem to be enough space between the upper edge of the door opening for the tank to fit through the door space. There is a block of wood that helps secure the tank that is attached by screws and this looks easily removed, but there is a metal cross piece that won't allow the tank to be dropped enough to exit the space. Any owners with advice or knowledge of how to get this tank out would be appreciated. I hate going to Elkhart to get this done if I can manage it myself.

Thanks in advance, Ron (Bronk)

Bronk, try looking at this place.

Potable Water Bladder Tanks - Go-To-Tanks

They make custom bladders so if you are able to find out the dimensions of your tank, you might consider purchasing one. I think the only way to replace a fresh water tank is to go through the floor. I've seen videos of rv construction and the tanks are one of the first things installed.

With a bladder, you could cut out just enough of the ends of the water tank on the top of each side to pull the bladder through. Then hook up your fresh water fill inlet and supply. I helped install these on old boats back when the tanks were built into the hull. Your old fresh water tank will serve as a perfect frame to contain the bladder and I am sure it would be a much cheaper alternative then having the dealer do it. Also, I think the current process to replace the fresh water tank is to cut out the old one an install a smaller one in its place that fits through the available opening. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

DGShaffer 04-06-2013 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronk (Post 1520704)
First, Don, many kudos for a well thought-out design and build for the grill!! Now, "United Challenger Owners"! I have a serious leak in my fresh water tank ( a 2011 Challenger 3710). I looked at the tank today to see if there is some way to remove it and replace it with a new one from Thor. I don't see how to get the tank out of the space. There doesn't seem to be enough space between the upper edge of the door opening for the tank to fit through the door space. There is a block of wood that helps secure the tank that is attached by screws and this looks easily removed, but there is a metal cross piece that won't allow the tank to be dropped enough to exit the space. Any owners with advice or knowledge of how to get this tank out would be appreciated. I hate going to Elkhart to get this done if I can manage it myself.

Thanks in advance, Ron (Bronk)

I'm just getting back online. the first question I have is, can you see the leak? Is it from wear? a split seam? A crack at a fitting?

These tanks are made of a thermoplastic material meaning that they can be welded using common plastic welding techniques (super heated air).

The upside is that although it may have to be removed, it may not need to be replaced.

camaromance 04-06-2013 09:12 AM

Good point Don, I guess it depends on how bad the leak is. These tanks are supposed to last for years. I wonder if Ron has some interference that has rubbed through the tank? 2011 is not that old and the tank shouldn't be breaking down already.

bronk 04-07-2013 11:17 AM

Don and Jimmy, Many thanks for your input and suggestions. I think what has happened is; While we in FL, one of the campgrounds had very high water pressure, and I may have overfilled the tank thus causing a rupture. Unfortunately, I can't see it from the visible side, but believe that it is a slight crack on the back side (facing the inside of the compartment). It was "pilot error" on my part. I have since used a pressure regulator for water that is under high pressure. Lesson learned. As to the fix: The tank is resting on a piece of 1/2 plywood and I believe that I can cut a piece of the wood out that will allow the tank to be dropped down into the compartment below. I will be able to inspect, repair or replace, then simply put the tank back up through the opening and add another piece of plywood over the existing plywood that is left around the edges of the piece removed. There is plenty of room to move the tank around to get to inlet fittings,etc., so this shouldn't be an issue. Also, there is ample room at the top of the tank to accomodate the extra thickness of the new plywood. I think that I will call Damon to ask their advice on removal before beginning, however.

Again thanks for all the feedback!

Ron (Bronk)

DGShaffer 04-08-2013 07:27 AM

3 Attachment(s)
Well, our shake down trip was uneventful other than leaving my propane lighter and fire poker in the garage at home.

The CG we stayed at was a short 20 minute ride from the house just in case anything were to go drastically wrong. When we arrived on Friday night there was a line to get in which was very odd as this was small to begin with. But we soon learned that the following morning was the opening of Trout season and this river was stocked. I was told that next weekend the place would be wide open.

The place was nice and quiet and our site backed up right on the river so it was exactly what we look for in a CG, being a County park, there were no seasonal sites which we also fine enjoyable. There was a nice fairly rugged hiking trail across the river which we spent a good amount of time on all three days. All in all, a great first weekend get away.

The grill slide worked out fantastic. I cooked four meals on it and it is plenty far enough away from the slide and at a height off the ground that made cooking and cleaning it fairly easy. I was worried that it may have been too low when I first put it on the slide.

Here are some photos. The one is of our view from the bedroom window looking out at the river (or as I posted on our FB page, the view from our weekend getaway home on the river). The other is from the hiking trail looking down at the MH, and the other of the grill being used to cook lunch.

I hope you all enjoyed your weekend as much as I did.

I Love my Challenger!

DGShaffer 04-08-2013 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bronk (Post 1522845)
Don and Jimmy, Many thanks for your input and suggestions. I think what has happened is; While we in FL, one of the campgrounds had very high water pressure, and I may have overfilled the tank thus causing a rupture. Unfortunately, I can't see it from the visible side, but believe that it is a slight crack on the back side (facing the inside of the compartment). It was "pilot error" on my part. I have since used a pressure regulator for water that is under high pressure. Lesson learned. As to the fix: The tank is resting on a piece of 1/2 plywood and I believe that I can cut a piece of the wood out that will allow the tank to be dropped down into the compartment below. I will be able to inspect, repair or replace, then simply put the tank back up through the opening and add another piece of plywood over the existing plywood that is left around the edges of the piece removed. There is plenty of room to move the tank around to get to inlet fittings,etc., so this shouldn't be an issue. Also, there is ample room at the top of the tank to accomodate the extra thickness of the new plywood. I think that I will call Damon to ask their advice on removal before beginning, however.

Again thanks for all the feedback!

Ron (Bronk)

Hopefully you'll be able to get it out without too much trouble. Getting it repaired is an option by the sounds of it.

Is your unit one of those that have the siphoning issue so that you have to block off the vent hoses? Because mine has the power fill option at the city water connection I have two overfill vent lines and I'm assuming it's so that it can vent at a rate sufficient to keep from over pressurizing the tank.

camaromance 04-08-2013 06:41 PM

Don, I'm really glad your first trip had no drama. That will be me next week, Tuesday to Sunday in PA. It's our usual first camp weekend after tax season. I haven't seen my wife in what seems like a couple of months. Your grill looks great.

I purposely overfilled my fresh water this weekend after de-winterizing it. The siphon issue is resolved, the overflow did its job and quit running water when the level was equalized.

Just a few more days, some shopping for food, beer, and a few odds and ends and I am heading for the mountains.

Great looking dog, BTW.

DGShaffer 04-08-2013 07:26 PM

Good to hear that issue was resolved. I can't imagine having to live with a band aid repair like having to clamp off a line and risk blowing up a water tank. That would drive me nuts!

Where in PA do you go? I'm heading back up to Promise Land State Park in Greene Township PA on the 19th. They put $3.4m into renovating the park and the Pickerel Point CG is absolutely amazing. What's most unusual is that the have a bunch of Full hookup sites that can accommodate big rigs. Since it's reopened, getting a good site on a holiday weekend takes some serious planning.

Enjoy your well deserved break.

camaromance 04-08-2013 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1524646)
Good to hear that issue was resolved. I can't imagine having to live with a band aid repair like having to clamp off a line and risk blowing up a water tank. That would drive me nuts!

Where in PA do you go? I'm heading back up to Promise Land State Park in Greene Township PA on the 19th. They put $3.4m into renovating the park and the Pickerel Point CG is absolutely amazing. What's most unusual is that the have a bunch of Full hookup sites that can accommodate big rigs. Since it's reopened, getting a good site on a holiday weekend takes some serious planning.

Enjoy your well deserved break.

Heading up to Rivers Edge in Connelsville, PA. We were supposed to stay there last year but the Youghigheny river washed them out. Look forward to getting some time in on the river this year, though. Good luck, brother.

I'll (the wife) will take pictures. Take care....

JohnG2013KT 04-12-2013 09:49 AM

New to forum and RVing - 2013 Challenger KT
 
Hello Everyone ... Earlier in the week I stumbled on this forum .. and have thoroughly enjoyed the conversations .. We are busy outfitting the RV .. for our first trip to Talladega for the race in May ..

As RV newbies (we lived on a sailboat for a few years, so we are somewhat familiar with this life .. lol) we have questions and concerns, so finding this site has been a good thing ...

I do have a question .. I would like to store a table below, but am not sure how to secure it? .. Anyone have any thoughts ? Looking at some of the pics .. it appears that you guys are using sheet metal screws to secure blocks/brackets?

Thanks again everyone .. for the helpful information ..
John

camaromance 04-12-2013 10:51 AM

Hey John, welcome to our challenger forum. First of all, congrats on getting to dega, my all time favorite track. I hope to get there in the next couple of years so you'll have to let me know what it was like.

Regarding your question. I'm not sure what type of table you are storing. I have a few stored below, a fold up plastic one I use is the biggest. It folds in half to four feet, so I guess it would be fairly big. Anyway, I don't strap it down and it seems to not move around much at all. I have chairs, a canopy tent and some fold up end tables, too. Unlike a boat that you have to stow for sea, I haven't had a lot of issue with my stuff gong adrift. But if your set on mounting things, Don would be the right guy to ask. He's a genius when it comes to that sort if thing.

DGShaffer 04-12-2013 01:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1528770)
He's a genius when it comes to that sort if thing.

:popcorn:

I've been making a few things for the storage bays in this and my Outlaw. I don't care to think of things traveling from one side to the other either. Although like Jim, things have seemed to stay put. I guess it's because you really don't corner too fast in these things. I often thought that if you were to use a section of a high pile carpet laid across the center rise between the bay doors it might help to keep items from sliding.

If you are referring to the screws I have securing my grill slide and the catch, they are sheet metal screws but they're also stainless steel. The plastic that the bay compartments is soft and almost self healing so it tends to create a seal after the screw goes in. If you were to use steel, it would surely rust and leak a bit over time. I always use stainless hardware, even inside. the space in between the interior and exterior can build up condensation over time and steel screws will rust there as well.

JohnG2013KT 04-12-2013 03:56 PM

Thanks guys for the feedback ..
 
I was thinking about the 4ft folding table from Walmart as well .. guess I'll give it a try ..

So Don .. You mean to tell me that this thing won't heel over like my sailboat ? ... That will make the wife ..very, very happy..

camaromance 04-12-2013 06:02 PM

John, That's the same table I bought. You have a 13 KT like I do so it fits perfectly, longways on the lower shelf of the forward stowage. Can't take credit, I didn't measure, it just kinda worked out that way. That's a perfect example of karma. I must have let someone merge in front of me in traffic.

DGShaffer 04-12-2013 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1529034)
So Don .. You mean to tell me that this thing won't heel over like my sailboat ?

I can recall one incident where I wasn't paying as much attention as I should have and ended up entering a long tight curve a bit on the hot side. I can remember thinking.... God I hope these tires hold!

I'm sure she had quite the list. It kind of reminded me of the scene in the movie RV where all the crap flew out of the overhead storage. :bow:

camaromance 04-12-2013 09:03 PM

Don, I've been in that same situation. I was fully puckered. I hate decreasing radius turns.

DGShaffer 04-15-2013 05:03 AM

I just purchased and hooked up a new Tailgater satellite dish. I tend to camp in more remote locations and state parks so rarely do I get any distractions other than Korean TV. We're outdoors most of the time but there are enough times where we would enjoy watching the news to make it a worth while investment.

Anyone that's thought about it can fine a lot of useful tips over on a thread that Bruce started here https://www.irv2.com/forums/f53/dish-...st-156508.html

DGShaffer 04-15-2013 06:18 AM

2 Attachment(s)
The DT is DeTailed and ready for summer! Away and towards the sun it looks like two different motor homes?

camaromance 04-15-2013 06:30 PM

Don, that is one beautiful ride. Those 22.5s in aluminum really set it off. I spent all week spit shining mine. The wheels are gleaming. I'll take some pictures before I leave tomorrow for our first trip this season. BTW, I noticed some surface rust on the lower edge of the stow lip. It's the black part the stowage door rubber attaches to behind the doors. I "carefully" spray painted it with some gloss black. I'll post some of those as well. Looks a lot better than the uneven flat black from the factory.

camaromance 04-15-2013 06:31 PM

Don, you're witty. I just got the DeTailed. Mine is Klean Too.

bdickson 04-15-2013 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1532725)
Don, you're witty. I just got the DeTailed. Mine is Klean Too.

Mine is Greatly Tweaked.......:D

DGShaffer 04-15-2013 06:58 PM

Klean Too :D

Man... two winters ago I drove my Outlaw down to Key West at Christmas. That was the year we got that bad snow storm. I was driving in snow from near your area all the way in GEORGIA! That was a rough one and I was pulling my VW Jetta on a dolly. After that trip the underside of the Outlaw started rotting away! Every inch was just tore up from the salt. In retrospect, I should have had it power washed underneath at the beginning of the next season. I even had electrical connections failing from the salt and the oil filter on the generator rotted completely through and dumped all it's oil. Here are a couple of photos from that trip including one of the jetta in the rear view camera :eek:

I love the last photo. Cindy is looking like she wanted to get out and walk and the dog is thinking "what the hell is with you man... Pull over!"
https://dgshaffer.com/bikephotos/christmas-10/12.JPG

https://dgshaffer.com/bikephotos/christmas-10/05.JPG

https://dgshaffer.com/bikephotos/christmas-10/06.JPG


https://dgshaffer.com/bikephotos/christmas-10/07.JPG

DGShaffer 04-15-2013 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1532752)
Mine is Greatly Tweaked.......:D

This is a whole new thread! :rofl:

JohnG2013KT 04-15-2013 08:21 PM

Bummer ... absolutely no power in RV ..
 
OK ... Walked out to the RV ... to install some wine glass racks ... and much to my surprise .. There is absolutely no power .. house batteries are dead, starting battery is dead ..?? Or at least they appear dead .. Can't even honk the horn ...

The RV is brand new ... we've only driven it from Camping World home .. less than 25 miles .. Did not have anything running or lights on .. not even the fridge .. Our 120v supply isn't in yet .. so we were cautious about lights, etc .. The last time we had any lights on was last Thursday evening .. At that time, I fired up the gen set to recharge the house batteries .. Everything seemed normal .. ?

It seems odd that the starting battery would also be down .. I thought that the starting battery was isolated from the house?

Anyone got any ideas? ...

John

camaromance 04-15-2013 09:05 PM

Not sure, John. It does seem odd you would run them down that quickly unless the batteries weren't that charged to begin with. Even though everything is off, there are a lot of things still sucking the juice out of your batteries. The carbon monoxide alarm is a huge culprit along with the radio and if you inadvertently left the inverter on. Not sure if you have one of those. Hope all is well now. One good road trip and everything should charge up. The alternator on the engine will charge both sets of batteries but plugging it in will only charge the coach batteries. I remember one season in my class c, I had to flip the switch and use the coach batteries to start the engine for a few days until I got enough run time to charge the engine battery. I know, too lazy to hook up the charger. I was testing my alternator over an extended period.

camaromance 04-15-2013 09:19 PM

Walmart has everything you need to plug into your house 120 supply. You'll need a 50amp to 30 amp pigtail and a 30amp to 15amp plug converter. I've been keeping my RV coach batteries charged for a few years doing it that way. It works fine for just some lights, the fridge and charging the batteries. Not much more though. You might consider using the battery disconnect on your switch panel if your not going to plug it in. That will disconnect everything from your batteries. Sorry if you know this stuff already. I had to learn everything the hard way.

camaromance 04-15-2013 09:27 PM

Don, I think the road salt is what got to mine. We were camping all the way to Christmas on those salty roads in PA. Glad I found it in time. I absolutely despise rust. I guess that's why I could never get on the Rat Rod patina band wagon. Every time I see on of those, I'm like, paint that sh!t, man.

DGShaffer 04-16-2013 04:51 AM

as Jim detailed, parasitic draw will kill your batteries so unless you knew the condition of the batteries when you picked it up and were monitoring them since it's been parked, the coach could have easily killed the batteries. Did you try starting the generator? That little motor doesn't take much to start it and that will charge the coach batteries back up so that you can use the AUX Start button to start the chassis motor.

Did you turn off the battery disconnect switch near the entry door? Keeping that off will go a long way towards extending the life of the coach battery bank. Also check the water level in the batteries, they will run dry if you're not careful.

Always remember that if there is a little juice left but it won't start the main engine, there may be enough to fire up the generator. Let that run for 5 minutes and you're good to go.

Another tip. You'll notice that if you hit the battery disconnect switch and close the doors, the entry steps will not retract. What I do is to close the screen door, let the steps retract, then reach through the pass through in the screen door to flip the switch to Disconnect.

Good luck getting it squared away John. And never park it anywhere with less than a 1/4 tank of fuel or your generator will not run! It's a safety feature so that leaving the generator running won't exhaust all your fuel and leave you stranded.

JohnG2013KT 04-16-2013 07:12 AM

Thanks guys .. for the info
 
Appreciate the advice .. going to WalMart this morning .. At least I can keep the batteries topped off ..until I can get an electrician out here ...

I have to first dig a trench about 120' .. ouch! ... Of course, that's one benefit of living in Florida ... digging a hole/trench isn't all that hard to do ... but (whine, whine, whine) it's hot .. ha..ha..

Thanks again .. .

John

DGShaffer 04-16-2013 07:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1533264)
Of course, that's one benefit of living in Florida ... digging a hole/trench isn't all that hard to do

John

I'm thinking that you would just drag a stick through the sand right? :rofl:

bdickson 04-16-2013 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1533267)

I'm thinking that you would just drag a stick through the sand right? :rofl:

Yeah, but if you go too slow it just fills in again behind you.

okiefrank 04-20-2013 07:27 PM

Battery discharge,
 
When we bought our new 2013 37GT in November, the service person said turn off the disconnect switch, which I did, the batteries went dead, Back to the dealer for repair, The disconnect switch has a relay in it, the relay stuck and was using the battery voltage until it ran down, they replace the relay. I have since had solar panel on and am installing 2 more 6 volt batteries. We do not need a washer or dryer so I had my contractor son build full extension slide out drawers and shelve in the space,, works beautiful.

bdickson 04-20-2013 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1538513)
When we bought our new 2013 37GT in November, the service person said turn off the disconnect switch, which I did, the batteries went dead, Back to the dealer for repair, The disconnect switch has a relay in it, the relay stuck and was using the battery voltage until it ran down, they replace the relay. I have since had solar panel on and am installing 2 more 6 volt batteries. We do not need a washer or dryer so I had my contractor son build full extension slide out drawers and shelve in the space,, works beautiful.

Can we see a picture of the washer closet refit please. I did the same to my 37GT but I'm not a contractor, so I'm sure yours came out better!

okiefrank 04-21-2013 12:12 AM

Drawer inserts
 
Sure thing will take pics tomorrow,, ordering a 5 star Monday..

okiefrank 04-21-2013 12:23 AM

Albuquerque camping world..
 
Do you remember who the tech's name at the shop who did the work.. I think Ramon did my work. Bill Culiflo also works there ... I had a mishap in my old 2002 Cruisemaster year before last and had a fire in the compartment where the sewer and water hook up are located ,, the exhaust got hot and set the hoses on fire in the compartment, did not know it until I opened the door and saw the mess, the fire burned a hole in the black water tank and the contents put out the fire. It was a crappy fire......Camping world repaired the tank after ordering the wrong replacement. Took 18 days for the fix. That is tough with COPD and having to take Oxygen part time for the altitude.

JohnG2013KT 04-21-2013 09:53 AM

Throwing in the towel on sewer hookup ..
 
When I initially joined the forum, there were several posts concerning the sewer hookup.. I was experiencing the same issue so I followed along .. hoping that I would be "lucky" and Thor had solved the problem for 2013 models ..

I spent an hour yesterday at Camping World, going thru an assortment of sewer kits, going back and forth out to one of the Challenger's they have onsite ... I found (by accident) a bayonet in the bag from Thor .. which has very short shoulders and in theory would allow the bayonet and hose to clear the flange .. Using that, I found that a Blue Line sewer hose would work .. So $40 later, I went home with a 'solution' ...

But alas, no luck and I am now throwing in the towel ...

Not only is clearance an issue, with attaching the bayonet. In my case, the hookup is offset from the flange and seems to be angled "up" rather than down towards the actual opening? Making it impossible to feed a hose up threw the pipe and connect it ..

So .. Thinking about Don's flange solution, I went back to my boating days and thought a using a plastic deck plate .. A quick trip to West Marine and $10 and I have a 6" threaded deck plate.. I really hate to start hacking on my new RV .. but I don't see any other way to make the existing configuration work ..

One question for those that have already done this .. When you say you cut out the existing flange and pipe, I am assuming that what you did was remove the brass screws and cut the pipe right at the elbow ??

Thanks again guys ..

John

PS .. I am very disappointed with Camping World .. When I picked up the RV, the holding tanks were 2/3 full ... I was very anxious to get it home, so I told the service guys that I would have them empty it when I brought it back in a couple of weeks for some warranty work .. After all of this, now I know why they hadn't dumped it .. They had no way of doing it?

JohnG2013KT 04-21-2013 09:59 AM

Warranty issues?
 
One more question .. Does removing the flange and pipe void the factory warranty for the sewer system? Has anyone experienced any issues with Thor on this?

okiefrank 04-21-2013 11:32 PM

Drawers pull outs
 
1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1538787)
Sure thing will take pics tomorrow,, ordering a 5 star Monday..

Here is a photo of drawers

okiefrank 04-21-2013 11:54 PM

Pull outs
 
The photo is of the pull out drawers, The top shelve brackets were moved up from the bottom, there is a board that covers the opening where the washer would hook up. I removed the chain that kept the closet door from hitting the mirror and moved the mirror about 1 1/2 " forward and installed a rubber bumper on the mirror frame where the closet door would hit, now the door opens to where it should. The three bottom drawers are full extension guides. I also found if you leave any item on the dining table there is a chance it will roll back and wind up in the TV compartment, all the way to the floor. I also installed a shield to prevent this problem.

DGShaffer 04-22-2013 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1539051)
When I initially joined the forum, there were several posts concerning the sewer hookup.. I was experiencing the same issue so I followed along .. hoping that I would be "lucky" and Thor had solved the problem for 2013 models ..

I spent an hour yesterday at Camping World, going thru an assortment of sewer kits, going back and forth out to one of the Challenger's they have onsite ... I found (by accident) a bayonet in the bag from Thor .. which has very short shoulders and in theory would allow the bayonet and hose to clear the flange .. Using that, I found that a Blue Line sewer hose would work .. So $40 later, I went home with a 'solution' ...

But alas, no luck and I am now throwing in the towel ...

Not only is clearance an issue, with attaching the bayonet. In my case, the hookup is offset from the flange and seems to be angled "up" rather than down towards the actual opening? Making it impossible to feed a hose up threw the pipe and connect it ..

So .. Thinking about Don's flange solution, I went back to my boating days and thought a using a plastic deck plate .. A quick trip to West Marine and $10 and I have a 6" threaded deck plate.. I really hate to start hacking on my new RV .. but I don't see any other way to make the existing configuration work ..

One question for those that have already done this .. When you say you cut out the existing flange and pipe, I am assuming that what you did was remove the brass screws and cut the pipe right at the elbow ??

Thanks again guys ..

John

PS .. I am very disappointed with Camping World .. When I picked up the RV, the holding tanks were 2/3 full ... I was very anxious to get it home, so I told the service guys that I would have them empty it when I brought it back in a couple of weeks for some warranty work .. After all of this, now I know why they hadn't dumped it .. They had no way of doing it?

The outlet connection will rotate down if you hold it tight and rotate it by hand. I have mine angled down and have added a 45* clear elbow that I leave in place and simply put the plastic cover on the end of the elbow when not in use. https://www.irv2.com/forums/f121/thor...ml#post1490944

Yes, the assembly is glued together so you have to cut it apart at the elbow. Once the screws are removed it comes right out

So far it's working out great with the larger than average fittings on the Rhino Flex piping. There's also room to run the fresh water hose in along with it.

Removing the storage pipe can't affect the warranty in any way since it's simply and added on part of the bay and not the plumbing system.

I have another door assembly here if you want it

JohnG2013KT 04-22-2013 07:15 PM

A big Thank You !!!
 
Don ... Thanks for the tip about rotating the fitting ... After work I went out and it did indeed rotate .. So now the issue with it being pointed too high to attach the bayone is solved ... Unfortunately, the flange is not aligned with the cleanout ... off an inch or so .. So I wasn't able to hook it up ..

Talked with Thor today .. taking the RV to an independent authorized warranty service center close by (NOT Camping World) tomorrow morning .. to see what he can do ..

Thanks again ...
John

bdickson 04-22-2013 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1540958)
Don ... Thanks for the tip about rotating the fitting ... After work I went out and it did indeed rotate .. So now the issue with it being pointed too high to attach the bayone is solved ... Unfortunately, the flange is not aligned with the cleanout ... off an inch or so .. So I wasn't able to hook it up ..

Talked with Thor today .. taking the RV to an independent authorized warranty service center close by (NOT Camping World) tomorrow morning .. to see what he can do ..

Thanks again ...
John

The alignment on mine was off, but I was able to attach a bayonet with a little difficulty. I bought a short Rhino hose, cut off the bayonet end, fed the hose through the black pipe and reattached the bayonet with a hose clip. At the outer end, I attached a 45 degree clear angle fitting which I attached to the end of the black pipe with 4 stainless steel screws. I discarded the screw on cap and instead used a bayonet cap. Now I just swing out the black pipe and attach the slinky to the clear elbow without having to feed it through the tube every time. I think this may have been what Thor supplied the loose bayonet fitting for.

DGShaffer 04-23-2013 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1540958)
Unfortunately, the flange is not aligned with the cleanout ... off an inch or so .. So I wasn't able to hook it up ..
John

It almost sounds like they drilled the hole in the bottom of the bay in the wrong spot. Hopefully they can remedy this easily but I fear they'll have to elongate the hole and put in a patch of sorts. Let me know if you need any help with this.

camaromance 04-23-2013 10:24 AM

Don, just got back from PA. What a great trip. I'll post some pics soon. I did have one issue. I drove I68 north through rocky gap towing my Yukon. I had no problems going out or returning until I got a couple of miles from the house. When I pressed the brake pedal, it sounded like gravel from the front brakes. It was really bad. I took it to the Ford dealer today and on the way there, everything seemed to be normal. It was like nothing had happened. The brakes seemed fine with no fade or anything. I'm having them pull all the wheels and inspect the brakes anyway. Any ideas?

DGShaffer 04-23-2013 11:10 AM

Seems like just yesterday you left :cry2: Vacations never seem long enough. We were in Northern PA over the weekend an I woke up to a frozen water line!

Hopefully it isn't anything serious. Apart from a mounting bolt missing from a caliper, I can't imagine what it could have been. Could you feel it in the pedal?

camaromance 04-23-2013 12:45 PM

Don, yeah, I could feel it in the pedal. I could also feel it in the floor. I'll know something soon. I hope they find something (under warranty, of course) I would hate to not know what it was. Did your frozen line cause any damage? We got down to 28 but I also had the furnace running. When is this winter going to end?

DGShaffer 04-23-2013 02:24 PM

It was just the hose from the spigot outside. A flip of the water pump switch and we were back in business.

28 is pretty chilly! We were on a lake so the wind was a killer. We spent most of the weekend hiking with the dog so we were good.

Can't wait to see your photos from your trip

JohnG2013KT 04-23-2013 06:50 PM

Sewer hook probs solved ..
 
Took the RV over this morning to an outfit in Auburndale/Winter , Florida.. The tech jumped right on it .. and had it fixed in under 30 minutes ... He used an impact snip and trimmed just enough off of one side to allow the flange to move over approx 3/4" ... NOW .. at last, I can dump the holding tanks .. What a relief .. ha...ha ..

Now .. On to other issues .. When dry camping ... do the 110 volt outlets work? .. Fridge and TVs all come on, but the outlets do not appear to work? .. Gonna make it mighty hot at Talladega when we can't run the gen set from midnight to 6 am .. without a fan?

Any thoughts?

Nimrod ...

bdickson 04-23-2013 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1542274)
Took the RV over this morning to an outfit in Auburndale/Winter , Florida.. The tech jumped right on it .. and had it fixed in under 30 minutes ... He used an impact snip and trimmed just enough off of one side to allow the flange to move over approx 3/4" ... NOW .. at last, I can dump the holding tanks .. What a relief .. ha...ha ..

Now .. On to other issues .. When dry camping ... do the 110 volt outlets work? .. Fridge and TVs all come on, but the outlets do not appear to work? .. Gonna make it mighty hot at Talladega when we can't run the gen set from midnight to 6 am .. without a fan?

Any thoughts?

Nimrod ...

If the TVs work when dry camping then you have an inverter. Some Challengers have a 600 watt under the bed, newer ones have an 1800 watt in the second compartment on the drivers side. Not all of the outlets work on inverter. In the bedroom of our 37GT for example, the outlet beside the bed does not work, but the one at the vanity below the TV does. You'll need to use a circuit tester to figure which ones work on inverter.

DGShaffer 04-23-2013 08:07 PM

I figured they were going to have to elongate that hole the way you described it. Thankfully they did it in a hurry. Did they re-attach the sewer pipe carrier?

Your inverter can only handle so much load so with that, it's only wired to a few outlets. I haven't tried locating myself yet so I can't tell you where they are. All you can do is take a receptacle tester and start plugging it in. I think the ceiling exhaust fans are 12 VDC so they'll keep the air moving a bit.

This is one of the reasons why people that boon-dock often retrofit their rigs with multiple battery banks and higher output inverters. Short of that, plan on sweating

camaromance 04-23-2013 09:27 PM

I use a Genturi exhaust stack on my gen set when we dry camp at Dover. It reduces the exhaust noise by more than half. I also put a rug on the ground under the gen set which really muffles the reflected noise. Not sure I could handle Alabama with no AC. John, maybe winter will still be here by the time you get to Talladega.

DGShaffer 04-24-2013 06:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1542503)
John, maybe winter will still be here by the time you get to Talladega.

It's been pretty damn cold here in Jersey. I'm hoping for some warmth today. I'm planning a MC trip out to Boston for the 4th of July, I'm hoping I won't have to wear heated gear!

JohnG2013KT 04-24-2013 02:23 PM

Genturi ..
 
Stopping by CW on the way home .. to get the Genturi system .. Seems like the best solution .. Hopefully that will allow us to run the gen set at night in Talladega .. ?

Curious about what you guys are doing about satellite service? ..

The Tailgater seemed like a good solution initially .. But after finding out that it supports just one receiver, that's not gonna work .. Suffice it to say .. I didn't buy an RV with 4 stinkin TVs just so I could watch Dancing With The Stars ... I perfer to allow my lovely wife to sit on the couch watching the Stars sweat while I'm outside watching a baseball game ..

DirecTV is what I have at home, but they don't offer the ability to start/stop service without limits ..

Comments?

JohnG2013KT 04-24-2013 02:25 PM

Genturi Question
 
Jimmy ...

Did you buy an extension for the genturi? .. Not at home so I cannot go out and measure it ... .?

John

DGShaffer 04-24-2013 02:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1543313)
Stopping by CW on the way home .. to get the Genturi system .. Seems like the best solution .. Hopefully that will allow us to run the gen set at night in Talladega .. ?

Curious about what you guys are doing about satellite service? ..

The Tailgater seemed like a good solution initially .. But after finding out that it supports just one receiver, that's not gonna work .. Suffice it to say .. I didn't buy an RV with 4 stinkin TVs just so I could watch Dancing With The Stars ... I perfer to allow my lovely wife to sit on the couch watching the Stars sweat while I'm outside watching a baseball game ..

DirecTV is what I have at home, but they don't offer the ability to start/stop service without limits ..

Comments?

"Dancing With The Stars" :dance: :rofl:

Did you see if the Direct TV company has the ability to relocate your receivers into your RV? Some companies also only charge a small amount to give you added RV service.

I bought the Tailgater. The campsite I had over the weekend was so tree lined that it was useless anyway!

camaromance 04-24-2013 04:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1543318)
Jimmy ...

Did you buy an extension for the genturi? .. Not at home so I cannot go out and measure it ... .?

John

Mine came in a bag with 2 exhaust stacks and the sleeve that goes over the exhaust on the gen set. I haven't used it on my KT yet and its at the dealer. Actually got up from my seat to go measure it, made it halfway to the door before I realized it. Getting old sucks. It cleared the roofline on my class c but now that you mention it, I'm not sure it would clear the KT. CW should be able to tell you. Just looked online. The Genturi is 124"or 10'3". That would not clear the roofline by 6 inches as recommended. I would get the extension.


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