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rvbunz 08-31-2013 07:19 PM

M72561,
If You Would Like To Give Me A Call, I Would Be Glad To Help You. It Is Easier Talking Than Back And Forth In Post. So Feel Free To Call@ 910 389 8865.

camaromance 09-01-2013 08:54 AM

Hey Don,


How did the trip to Indiana work out for you? Been meaning to reply to your weight posting. Very interesting how the one side has all the weight.

I'm sitting in the Walmart in Lehighton, Pa on my way back from Syracuse. Spent the week at Ta-Ga-Soke on lake Oneida. Nice place. A LOT of bugs. Holy crap. Defiantly bug zapper territory.

I've been thinking about the lean you have and was also looking for an air ride suspension. I would use it more for leveling the coach before I put down the jacks. Anyway, Firestone's Ride-rite system seemed promising but it excludes Thor motorhomes exclusively. It works on all other F-53 chassis's. I sent an email to Firestone but have not heard anything back yet.

rvbunz 09-01-2013 09:31 AM

Adjust Awning
 
FYI, in case you didn't know you can adjust the awning so that it will give a little better protection from the sun. It will never be like the awnings that don't come out over a slide. you owners manual for the awning shows you how to adjust.

TPB 09-04-2013 11:04 AM

TPB
 
Any one having problems with there Leather captains chairs

DGShaffer 09-04-2013 11:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1709174)
Hey Don,


How did the trip to Indiana work out for you? Been meaning to reply to your weight posting. Very interesting how the one side has all the weight.

I'm sitting in the Walmart in Lehighton, Pa on my way back from Syracuse. Spent the week at Ta-Ga-Soke on lake Oneida. Nice place. A LOT of bugs. Holy crap. Defiantly bug zapper territory.

I've been thinking about the lean you have and was also looking for an air ride suspension. I would use it more for leveling the coach before I put down the jacks. Anyway, Firestone's Ride-rite system seemed promising but it excludes Thor motorhomes exclusively. It works on all other F-53 chassis's. I sent an email to Firestone but have not heard anything back yet.

My appointment is for November 18th. I was going to have a local shop look at it but I was thinking that I wanted Thor to see it first. This issue should be between them and Ford but I know I'll have to fight for this one.

I'm excited about heading to the factory. I can overnight in the RV right in their lot and then find things to do during the day. I might bring my Dog to keep me company :D

JohnG2013KT 09-06-2013 05:20 PM

Awning not closing ..
 
On my 2013 KT, the big awning will not roll up without someone pushing it closed the last 3 feet or so... Anyone have any thoughts or suggestions as to why it's not closing or better yet, how to fix it? ..

Also .. We just returned from a great trip up to the NASCAR race at Atlanta Motor Speedway ... We parked right across the street from the main gate ... so it was easy access .. The only problem was the heat .. man o man . it was hoT... The RV did great and we had a great time ..

camaromance 09-06-2013 05:38 PM

Hey John,

Mine does the same thing. I think the important part is the aluminum clamshell cover wraps around like its supposed to. Also, I never really liked it when it slammed shut anyway. I haven't had any problems with it. Glad you enjoyed Atlanta. It's one of my favorite tracks. Did your AC's keep up with the heat? I was in St. Louis a year ago in 110 degree heat. My AC's couldn't keep up with the heat. I thought I had a problem but everyone in the park was dealing with the same situation so I figured it was normal.

camaromance 09-06-2013 05:51 PM

I just did the round trip from MD to Syracuse, NY. I was towing my Yukon and averaged about 4.6 mpg. Does anyone else get the same? When not towing, I can get around 8.5mpg. My best yet was 10.2 heading through the flat parts of Illinois. I'm not complaining. I knew what I was getting into with a V-10 in a 38' motorhome. I'm just curious to see what others are getting. If you have the 5 star tune, did you see a difference afterwards? I plan on getting the tune prior to my big trip to Tennessee this winter. I'm also looking for a smaller toad, as well. I really like the Subaru WRX Sport. Any other suggestions?

bdickson 09-06-2013 08:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1717094)
I just did the round trip from MD to Syracuse, NY. I was towing my Yukon and averaged about 4.6 mpg. Does anyone else get the same? When not towing, I can get around 8.5mpg. My best yet was 10.2 heading through the flat parts of Illinois. I'm not complaining. I knew what I was getting into with a V-10 in a 38' motorhome. I'm just curious to see what others are getting. If you have the 5 star tune, did you see a difference afterwards? I plan on getting the tune prior to my big trip to Tennessee this winter. I'm also looking for a smaller toad, as well. I really like the Subaru WRX Sport. Any other suggestions?

My overall mpg for 5,000 miles towing a CR-V is 7.3. I installed the 5 Star about 1,000 miles ago. Too early to tell for sure, but I think I'm improving by about 0.4 mpg.

DGShaffer 09-07-2013 07:34 PM

I get near 7MPG but I haven't done a lot of towing, I drive too fast!

As far as the awning issue. Mine runs pretty slow but always seems to make it. I have to ask... are you winding it in the right direction? These will roll up backwards if you let them!

DGShaffer 09-07-2013 07:36 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Time to unload the Kawasaki. I just added this Road King to the garage.

camaromance 09-07-2013 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1718439)
Time to unload the Kawasaki. I just added this Road King to the garage.

Nice bike, don. Big, too. How far can you lean that road king over?

rvbunz 09-08-2013 09:35 AM

We had a long trip this summer while on a 13 day caravan through Yellowstone, Cody and Jackson Hole Wy. We left NC headed to Elkhart, then to Mt Rushmore and on to Buffalo Wy to meet up with the caravan. We averaged about 7.5 mpg towing a 2008 GMC Arcadia. This is about .5 mpg less than I was getting with my 2003 Damon Challenger with the V10 and Banks installed. The new Challenger 37DT is a bit heavier and I do have the 5 star tuning on it. So I think the extra weight takes up that loss of .5 mpg. Comparing the 5 star tuning to the Banks, I think I got more power out of the banks. It is hard to tell since the new coach is on a heavier chassis. But like I have told many at the gas pumps when they ask about my mileage is "That if I have too worry about the mpg, I shouldn't own an RV" I love the traveling and meeting new freinds, and that outweighs the fuel cost. Stay safe and happy travels to all.

DGShaffer 09-08-2013 05:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1718694)
Nice bike, don. Big, too. How far can you lean that road king over?

I'll have to wait to find out, I'm just getting used to it. I does handle a lot better than the old 75 FL Shovel Head I had years back though.

DGShaffer 09-08-2013 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1719019)
We had a long trip this summer while on a 13 day caravan through Yellowstone, Cody and Jackson Hole Wy. We left NC headed to Elkhart, then to Mt Rushmore and on to Buffalo Wy to meet up with the caravan. We averaged about 7.5 mpg towing a 2008 GMC Arcadia. This is about .5 mpg less than I was getting with my 2003 Damon Challenger with the V10 and Banks installed. The new Challenger 37DT is a bit heavier and I do have the 5 star tuning on it. So I think the extra weight takes up that loss of .5 mpg. Comparing the 5 star tuning to the Banks, I think I got more power out of the banks. It is hard to tell since the new coach is on a heavier chassis. But like I have told many at the gas pumps when they ask about my mileage is "That if I have too worry about the mpg, I shouldn't own an RV" I love the traveling and meeting new freinds, and that outweighs the fuel cost. Stay safe and happy travels to all.

Here, here! These things aren't economy cars or an investment in anything other than good times!

camaromance 09-08-2013 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1719578)

Here, here! These things aren't economy cars or an investment in anything other than good times!

That is too true. I'm making up for all the lost time. Good friends, good food, good beer and good times. Love it!

TPB 09-09-2013 10:03 AM

TPB
 
any one out there had problems with the leather on there captain chairs
the factory knows they had a problem but won't stand behind it

bdickson 09-09-2013 07:50 PM

Had a severe thunderstorm come through last evening. Weather channel said winds to 50mph and torrential rain. Certainly felt like it, we were rocking on the jacks for 20 minutes and the rain on the roof was deafening. This morning I noticed a small amount of water on the dash, close to center. There were a couple of drips showing on the plastic trim around the top of the windshield. I popped off the inspection panel in the center glass fronted cabinet and looked around with a light and mirror. No water visible. Then I removed the plastic windshield trim and found it was a little wet on the inside. My thought is that rain was driven in past the windshield seal. Anyone else experienced this?

okiefrank 09-10-2013 12:22 AM

What kind of problems?

okiefrank 09-10-2013 12:28 AM

Has anyone had a problem with the curtains on the front side windows, the folding night shades, I HATE them they are stiff they won't cooperate when we try to fold them, also the roll-up night shade and the roll up sun shade on the windshield. They won't stay in the guides, any suggestions?

bdickson 09-10-2013 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1721756)
Has anyone had a problem with the curtains on the front side windows, the folding night shades, I HATE them they are stiff they won't cooperate when we try to fold them, also the roll-up night shade and the roll up sun shade on the windshield. They won't stay in the guides, any suggestions?

We don't use the side curtains at night. We figured that no one can see in anyway. Our night and sun roller blinds come out of the track sometimes. It seems like the rods are a half inch too short. I'm thinking of replacing them with a longer rod if I can find something suitable.

rvbunz 09-10-2013 10:36 AM

I had to have my front windsdhield shades adjusted twice. The first time a dealer did it and it didn't last, the second time is when I was at Thor and they replaced the rods with longer ons to keep them in the track. It is still not perfect, the rods stay in but the fabric will pop out in the center of the track at times. I put MCD shades on my side windows. The only problem is that they don't cover the whole window.

camaromance 09-10-2013 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1721381)
Had a severe thunderstorm come through last evening. Weather channel said winds to 50mph and torrential rain. Certainly felt like it, we were rocking on the jacks for 20 minutes and the rain on the roof was deafening. This morning I noticed a small amount of water on the dash, close to center. There were a couple of drips showing on the plastic trim around the top of the windshield. I popped off the inspection panel in the center glass fronted cabinet and looked around with a light and mirror. No water visible. Then I removed the plastic windshield trim and found it was a little wet on the inside. My thought is that rain was driven in past the windshield seal. Anyone else experienced this?

I have not had any leaks from the windshield. We went through that doratio about a year ago and the windshield was pointed into it. I didn't see any water coming in. That would concern me a little if I thought the window channel was metal but I think the front cap is all fiberglass. I could be wrong though. I had a similar problem on my 70 Camaro with the OEM rubber. The rubber channel ends butted up at the top of the window and the metal trim had a little cap piece there. I ditched the trim and when the window was put back in after it was painted, i used a single piece of channel rubber. Haven't had a problem since but, it doesn't see rain. My point is, you might look to see if the rubber terminates and buts up at the top of the windshield. If so, a little silicon may do the trick. I'm not at home to look at mine but I'll check when I get back.

camaromance 09-10-2013 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1721756)
Has anyone had a problem with the curtains on the front side windows, the folding night shades, I HATE them they are stiff they won't cooperate when we try to fold them, also the roll-up night shade and the roll up sun shade on the windshield. They won't stay in the guides, any suggestions?

I can get my side shades to fold up easy enough but the snap strap that holds them leaves the bottom flared out and aggravates me when I'm driving. My plan is to get a couple of those Velcro cable straps to hold the bottom but I seem to forget to do it until I'm driving.

I had the same problem with the front day and night shades. My dealer added what looks like about a 2" piece of rubber tubing to each of the ends to hold it in the track. They don't fall out of the track anymore but the edge of the shade will sometimes billow out a bit. I consider it fixed well enough.

DGShaffer 09-10-2013 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1721381)
Had a severe thunderstorm come through last evening. Weather channel said winds to 50mph and torrential rain. Certainly felt like it, we were rocking on the jacks for 20 minutes and the rain on the roof was deafening. This morning I noticed a small amount of water on the dash, close to center. There were a couple of drips showing on the plastic trim around the top of the windshield. I popped off the inspection panel in the center glass fronted cabinet and looked around with a light and mirror. No water visible. Then I removed the plastic windshield trim and found it was a little wet on the inside. My thought is that rain was driven in past the windshield seal. Anyone else experienced this?

I had to remove and reseal the marker lights on the Challenger and the Outlaw. I thought it was the windshield on the outlaw and had the dealer try to fix it but it would still drip. That drip kept getting worse as the seal behind the marker lights started failing over time. After that, not a drop on either MH since.

DGShaffer 09-10-2013 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1721756)
Has anyone had a problem with the curtains on the front side windows, the folding night shades, I HATE them they are stiff they won't cooperate when we try to fold them, also the roll-up night shade and the roll up sun shade on the windshield. They won't stay in the guides, any suggestions?


Folding the side shades just takes patience but they fold right back the way they were.

The rode in the shades in the windshield are too short. I bought two aluminum rods from McMaster Carr and cut them almost 2" longer as I recall. Since then not a single issue
McMaster-Carr

bdickson 09-10-2013 08:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1722813)
I had to remove and reseal the marker lights on the Challenger and the Outlaw. I thought it was the windshield on the outlaw and had the dealer try to fix it but it would still drip. That drip kept getting worse as the seal behind the marker lights started failing over time. After that, not a drop on either MH since.

Don, I'm pretty sure it wasn't the marker lights. There's an inspection panel in the center closet and I can see the center 3 lights through it. No water there. I'm going to check the rubber seal when we get to our destination next week.

okiefrank 09-10-2013 09:02 PM

What does the little camp fires after our names represent?

DGShaffer 09-11-2013 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1722941)
Don, I'm pretty sure it wasn't the marker lights. There's an inspection panel in the center closet and I can see the center 3 lights through it. No water there. I'm going to check the rubber seal when we get to our destination next week.

Hopefully it's not the windshield, I've heard of people chasing those leaks season after season. If you can find a shop to pressure test it, that's the surest way to find the leak.

DGShaffer 09-11-2013 06:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1723010)
What does the little camp fires after our names represent?

How many times you've given bad advise :popcorn:

bigdonedmon 09-11-2013 07:31 AM

Sbleieiss
What did thor do to fix your slide noise? Did they fix it. If you go to the Thor owners form on this site and look down to Challenger 37DT slide noise you can see it is a problem. Plesae not what the fix was.

Don

rvbunz 09-11-2013 07:41 AM

To all:
I have started a new thread called Thor Gas Club/Thor Motor Coach Club ( Thor coaches) Check it out and take the poll if interested. It has some updates as to where I am on this topic.

Thanks
Bob

DGShaffer 09-11-2013 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdonedmon (Post 1723312)
Sbleieiss
What did thor do to fix your slide noise? Did they fix it. If you go to the Thor owners form on this site and look down to Challenger 37DT slide noise you can see it is a problem. Plesae not what the fix was.

Don

My local dealer tried to fix it by supposedly following Thor's advise and shimming it. That didn't help but now it leaks like mad.

The noise has subsided now that it has over 3,000 miles on it but I'd prefer the noise over a leak! Not really since the noise was driving me nuts!

I have a November appoint out at the factory where this is to be addressed. I'll be asking them what the cause and solution for the squeaking is when I'm out there. I have a feeling it's rubber on the paint although I tried putting powder on the seals with no luck

sbleiweiss 09-11-2013 08:54 AM

Thor cut and welded a new section into the middle of both rods for us and so far no problems. They also adjusted the tracks a little bit to make them deeper.

DGShaffer 09-11-2013 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1723424)
Thor cut and welded a new section into the middle of both rods for us and so far no problems. They also adjusted the tracks a little bit to make them deeper.

Holy smokes! Cut, extended and welded a $8.00 piece of aluminum. Labor must be cheap as hell out there!

okiefrank 09-12-2013 12:32 AM

What kind of noise are you talking about?? My 37GT has a noise in the Drivers side slide like it is breaking in the middle ,squeeking and knocking. Dealer lubed it ,was ok for a few miles.

okiefrank 09-12-2013 12:38 AM

Who puts those things on the page?

okiefrank 09-12-2013 12:47 AM

I have not given advise ?? only questions.

DGShaffer 09-12-2013 06:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1724636)
I have not given advise ?? only questions.

I was only funnin with ya Frank :D

The campfires are some sort of quantitative display of how many posts a person has made.

Less campfires = more time you enjoy your RV
More campfires = more time you spend on your computer

I have too many campfires!

DGShaffer 09-12-2013 06:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1724625)
What kind of noise are you talking about?? My 37GT has a noise in the Drivers side slide like it is breaking in the middle ,squeeking and knocking. Dealer lubed it ,was ok for a few miles.

When I first picked mine up the squeaking rubber noise was deafening! It's subsided after many miles but is still there when driving through towns and over uneven road surfaces.

There isn't any banging noise, just the sound of rubber squeaking constantly :cry2:

sbleiweiss 09-12-2013 08:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1723428)
Holy smokes! Cut, extended and welded a $8.00 piece of aluminum. Labor must be cheap as hell out there!

Thor is a big bureaucracy. They can only work with the parts Thor has, which in this case is the length rods originally installed. Hey, at least they did something, even if not efficient.

sbleiweiss 09-12-2013 08:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1724625)
What kind of noise are you talking about?? My 37GT has a noise in the Drivers side slide like it is breaking in the middle ,squeeking and knocking. Dealer lubed it ,was ok for a few miles.

It was a loud clanging noise. Not really sure what was causing it. Thor first tried shimming it. This did not cause any leak for us, and it improved but didn't really solve the problem. When we next had it in for a more extended time they actually removed the room and put in a different (larger I think) set of rollers; at least that is what they told me. The dealer didn't want anything to do with this problem and didn't seem to be focused on what Thor said caused the problem either.

camaromance 09-13-2013 01:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1724625)
What kind of noise are you talking about?? My 37GT has a noise in the Drivers side slide like it is breaking in the middle ,squeeking and knocking. Dealer lubed it ,was ok for a few miles.

Okie, I would get that looked at. What you describe sounds like the rollers are not aligned with the aluminum support plate on the bottom of the slide. If you look under the slide when it's extended, you will see at least two aluminum plates. The rollers are supposed to be aligned with these plates. If not, the weight of the slide will not be supported correctly and it will break the wood apart, hence the cracking noise you hear when you're extending it. This seems to be a common problem and requires the plates to be removed and relocated to align with the rollers. I bet if you look, you will see the rub marks from the rollers on the bottom of the slide.

okiefrank 09-14-2013 12:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1725999)
Okie, I would get that looked at. What you describe sounds like the rollers are not aligned with the aluminum support plate on the bottom of the slide. If you look under the slide when it's extended, you will see at least two aluminum plates. The rollers are supposed to be aligned with these plates. If not, the weight of the slide will not be supported correctly and it will break the wood apart, hence the cracking noise you hear when you're extending it. This seems to be a common problem and requires the plates to be removed and relocated to align with the rollers. I bet if you look, you will see the rub marks from the rollers on the bottom of the slide.

The sound I hear is when the slide is in and traveling down the highway it kinda sounds like it is in a bind and rubbing on something.

okiefrank 09-14-2013 12:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TPB (Post 1720540)
any one out there had problems with the leather on there captain chairs
the factory knows they had a problem but won't stand behind it

What kind of problems?

camaromance 09-14-2013 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1727182)
The sound I hear is when the slide is in and traveling down the highway it kinda sounds like it is in a bind and rubbing on something.

Oh. Well I guess I'll get another fire for the bad advice. :)

Thortogo 09-14-2013 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1721756)
Has anyone had a problem with the curtains on the front side windows, the folding night shades, I HATE them they are stiff they won't cooperate when we try to fold them, also the roll-up night shade and the roll up sun shade on the windshield. They won't stay in the guides, any suggestions?

Have dealer put a longer pole through the night shade......seems the one with ours was too short also but is fixed with that longer pole. Don't seem to have problem with side curtains ... I rather like them....but yes, they are not the easiest to close.

Mike 1000 09-15-2013 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1724708)
When I first picked mine up the squeaking rubber noise was deafening! It's subsided after many miles but is still there when driving through towns and over uneven road surfaces.

There isn't any banging noise, just the sound of rubber squeaking constantly :cry2:

The "sound of rubber squeaking constantly" sounds like what my 37DT does, although it is quiet on a smooth road until the slightest bump or twist, then I get the loud creaking noise. I have wondered it it is the rubber seals squeaking. It is at the dealers right now and the noise is one of about 19 items on the list I gave them. I hope there is a fix; it is very annoying!

bigdonedmon 09-18-2013 11:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1725999)
Okie, I would get that looked at. What you describe sounds like the rollers are not aligned with the aluminum support plate on the bottom of the slide. If you look under the slide when it's extended, you will see at least two aluminum plates. The rollers are supposed to be aligned with these plates. If not, the weight of the slide will not be supported correctly and it will break the wood apart, hence the cracking noise you hear when you're extending it. This seems to be a common problem and requires the plates to be removed and relocated to align with the rollers. I bet if you look, you will see the rub marks from the rollers on the bottom of the slide.

There is a thread on this form named Challenger slide noise where problems and salutions are discussed.
It appears to be a problem with the Schwintec slides.

bigdonedmon 09-18-2013 11:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1721944)
We don't use the side curtains at night. We figured that no one can see in anyway. Our night and sun roller blinds come out of the track sometimes. It seems like the rods are a half inch too short. I'm thinking of replacing them with a longer rod if I can find something suitable.

Go to a local hardware store and buy small plastic protectors for the 1/4" rods. Push a plastic protector onto each end of the rods. That will give you a little more length. Auternatively buy a small clear piece of surgical hose (1/4" soft plastic) cut it to size and slide a short piece onto each end leaving a (1/8" to a 1/4") extending over the end.:cool:

bigdonedmon 09-18-2013 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1723331)
My local dealer tried to fix it by supposedly following Thor's advise and shimming it. That didn't help but now it leaks like mad.

The noise has subsided now that it has over 3,000 miles on it but I'd prefer the noise over a leak! Not really since the noise was driving me nuts!

I have a November appoint out at the factory where this is to be addressed. I'll be asking them what the cause and solution for the squeaking is when I'm out there. I have a feeling it's rubber on the paint although I tried putting powder on the seals with no luck

Please keep us posted. If you could give us in as much detail as possible what the fix was. I have been asking everyone with this problem to do the same.

bigdonedmon 09-18-2013 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1723424)
Thor cut and welded a new section into the middle of both rods for us and so far no problems. They also adjusted the tracks a little bit to make them deeper.

Do you have any pics (pictures) of the repairs. I am trying to get everyone to note here what the fix was on their slide repairs in as much detail as they have. Good Luck!

DGShaffer 09-18-2013 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdonedmon (Post 1733009)
Please keep us posted. If you could give us in as much detail as possible what the fix was. I have been asking everyone with this problem to do the same.

I'll be doing that.

sbleiweiss 09-19-2013 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdonedmon (Post 1733010)
Do you have any pics (pictures) of the repairs. I am trying to get everyone to note here what the fix was on their slide repairs in as much detail as they have. Good Luck!

I don't have a pix, and would have to remove the rod from the shade to take one. But I understand they simply welded a small additional piece of aluminum onto the rod to make it longer. Just took it camping last night and so far both shades have worked fine now. But if Thor wasn't doing this for me I would just order those $8 longer aluminum rods that someone posted the link to and put them in myself.

DGShaffer 09-19-2013 09:25 AM

The rods supplied from the factory already have soft rubber end caps on them and for us end users, simply replacing the rod with a longer one would cost less than the fuel to take it to a dealer for repair.

M72561 09-20-2013 07:44 PM

1 st long trip
 
We just returned from a 12 day 2200 mile trip from NC to eastern maine then central maine back down thru the shenandoahs and back to the outer banks. We did the following mods to our 2014 Challenger 37kt before taking off #1 CHF, #2 Banks power pak ,and #3 Safe-t steer. There were 4 of us and the coach ran perfect but we did have a few odd things happen .Almost every night the microwave would come on 3 different times for about a minute at a time,and the door locked all by itself when I was refueling at a gas station,thank god I had the drivers side window open and was able to get the keys out of the ignition.I would strongly suggest a stow away key for the door handle lock. We are very happy with the coach and love being on the road. We also rented a car once in portland maine which we put 2100 miles on in 8 days going in and out of Canada. Happy motoring

bronk 09-21-2013 08:45 AM

Happy to hear that you had an enjoyable trip to Maine! We, too, have a Challenger (2011 3710). We are originally from Maine and just returned to KY after spending the summer in the Bangor area. Just a thought concerning extra keys - we have always had an extra set with us for all of our RV's. We use a "Hide-a-Key) magnetic holder and place it in a inconspicuous location under the coach. I have seen too many RV owners have to hire a locksmith or break a window to get back in once locked out. Again, pleased to hear about your trip and best wishes for many more!

Ron (Bronk)

sbleiweiss 09-21-2013 09:11 AM

Are you sure the door really locked? They are prone to sticking. As someone (with 8K miles on a 2013 37DT) who hasn't made any mods, why do you need/want those things? What do they do?

M72561 09-21-2013 12:32 PM

the door was locked which is very hard to believe if you ever spend time to see how it works. The modifications were made reduce swaying,driver fatigue and add HP torque and better gas mileage. My coach has 4500 miles on it now after this trip.I am now looking into an airbag assisted ride to fine tune the comfort even more. The CHF was free, and I have about 4k including labor in the other 2 fixes. THe motorhome drives much better and the power pak system reduces a lot of strain on the engine. I would do it again in a heart beat

rvbunz 09-21-2013 01:03 PM

M72561- I had the banks installed on my last coach and really noticed a difference. We just got our new coach in June and wasn't sure I wanted to spend the 3k to get another banks so I put on the 5 star tuning. It seems to work well. Not sure it is as good as the banks but the cost was much less. If you get an airbag assist and it improves your ride I would like to know what you get. I looked into the Firestone air rite but you can't use them on Thor coaches. So keep us informed on what you find and use. Good luck

M72561 09-21-2013 03:31 PM

Bob,

I was just starting to research the air bags and came across the firestone product. I guess I will need to do more indepth research to see what can be used on a Thor. What is the reason it can't be used

thanks

rvbunz 09-22-2013 09:25 AM

I was told by an air step supplier that the Thor chassis are differnent from other manufactures and the bags won't fit.

JohnG2013KT 09-25-2013 11:46 AM

Deadbolt issue ..
 
Is anyone else having issues with throwing the deadbolt? ..

Twice now, I've had the door fly open .. when I thought it was latched? .. So now, I don't dare take off unless the deadbolt is locked? ..

However . it's getting more and more difficult to get it to lock? .. I have to repeatedly shut the door .. (and of course the steps fold up) then try the deadbolt .. It seems that there is a small sweet spot for the door/latch where it clears the bracket on the door frame?

Any thoughts?

bigdonedmon 09-25-2013 12:08 PM

I have a 2013 Challenger 37DT. I can't seem to get my steps to retract when in storage and the step up button pushed and the storage button engaged. Any suggestions?

DGShaffer 09-25-2013 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1742399)
Is anyone else having issues with throwing the deadbolt? ..

Twice now, I've had the door fly open .. when I thought it was latched? .. So now, I don't dare take off unless the deadbolt is locked? ..

However . it's getting more and more difficult to get it to lock? .. I have to repeatedly shut the door .. (and of course the steps fold up) then try the deadbolt .. It seems that there is a small sweet spot for the door/latch where it clears the bracket on the door frame?

Any thoughts?


You might try adjusting the two pins on the door, they can be turned in and out for adjustment. The plate on the frame of the door opening is adjustable up and down

DGShaffer 09-25-2013 01:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdonedmon (Post 1742425)
I have a 2013 Challenger 37DT. I can't seem to get my steps to retract when in storage and the step up button pushed and the storage button engaged. Any suggestions?

When you get out for the last time when putting it in storage, close the screen door and this will retract the steps so you can reach through the opening and hit the storage switch. Now the steps are in and you can close and lock the outer door.

bigdonedmon 09-25-2013 01:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1742511)
When you get out for the last time when putting it in storage, close the screen door and this will retract the steps so you can reach through the opening and hit the storage switch. Now the steps are in and you can close and lock the outer door.

DGShaffer,
Thanks a lot, you are the best....I am on my way to get my steps in...

bdickson 09-25-2013 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1742511)

When you get out for the last time when putting it in storage, close the screen door and this will retract the steps so you can reach through the opening and hit the storage switch. Now the steps are in and you can close and lock the outer door.

On my 37GT I'd need a five foot long arm. The storage switch is on a panel at ceiling height above and just to the side of the door.

DGShaffer 09-25-2013 06:58 PM

The power to the steps on my Outlaw wasn't cut off when the battery cutoff switch was switched off. I was surprised when I closed up my DT for the first time. Luckily it's within reach through the screen door or the steps would be out all winter

sbleiweiss 09-26-2013 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1742511)
When you get out for the last time when putting it in storage, close the screen door and this will retract the steps so you can reach through the opening and hit the storage switch. Now the steps are in and you can close and lock the outer door.

By storage switch do you guys mean the battery use switch? I don't know of any switch called storage switch.

DGShaffer 09-26-2013 09:22 AM

That's the one.

okiefrank 09-27-2013 12:31 AM

Storage switch
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1743366)
That's the one.

The storage switch on my 37GT is located above the door and cannot be reached from the outside.

DGShaffer 09-27-2013 06:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by okiefrank (Post 1744370)
The storage switch on my 37GT is located above the door and cannot be reached from the outside.

That's too bad they decided to move it.

Mgoldfinger 10-06-2013 08:08 AM

Question to anyone with experience on this...my headlights are not bright enough for me and I am looking for an upgrade. Any recommendations? I'm thinking an HID kit is going to give me the highest lumen output.

DGShaffer 10-06-2013 08:15 AM

Are they aimed properly? My Outlaw had them focused at about 6 feet so a proper adjustment did wonders!

If you do go HID, get a quality kit. The Chinese ones will leave you in the dark!

camaromance 10-07-2013 01:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1756373)
Are they aimed properly? My Outlaw had them focused at about 6 feet so a proper adjustment did wonders! If you do go HID, get a quality kit. The Chinese ones will leave you in the dark!

Hey Don,

How far out did you adjust your headlights? I rarely drive at night and I noticed this weekend that my low beams are focused way too close in. I felt like I needed mid beams between my low and high beams.

DGShaffer 10-07-2013 01:07 PM

I just kept going up until I was happy. No one flashed their lights at me so I figured I was good

rvbunz 10-07-2013 02:24 PM

Hey fellow Challenger owners, what are your thoughts of forming a Thor Motor oach Owners' Club? The diesel coach owners' have a club, so I'm trying to start an all inclusive club that benifits all Thor owners. I would love to see my fellow Challenger owners interested. I have two threads , 1. TMCOC flyer, and TMCOC Membership drive. Check them out.

okiefrank 10-08-2013 12:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1757919)
I just kept going up until I was happy. No one flashed their lights at me so I figured I was good

If you go on line and look up headlight aiming it shows how to aim them.

rvbunz 10-08-2013 12:43 PM

Hey Challenger owners, have you looked at the post in the Palazzo owners thread where Gary compiled everyone's name, and model they have. If you would care to PM me your Challenger Model and I will compile and post a list like Gary did for the Palazzo's.

DGShaffer 10-08-2013 01:36 PM

I noticed that and was curious what the reasoning behind it was.

DGShaffer 10-12-2013 02:45 PM

Hopefully one of you can help with this one. Three weeks ago I parked my MH and left the parking lights on and forgot to hit the disconnect switch. The batteries were completely drained.

Everything came back ok except for the awning? I doesn't make a sound when I hit the switch in either direction. Could this be related to something needing to be reset?

camaromance 10-13-2013 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1763917)
Hopefully one of you can help with this one. Three weeks ago I parked my MH and left the parking lights on and forgot to hit the disconnect switch. The batteries were completely drained. Everything came back ok except for the awning? I doesn't make a sound when I hit the switch in either direction. Could this be related to something needing to be reset?

Don, I did some research this morning. If we have 120v awning, it might be a tripped breaker. I don't think we do because the awning will operate without being plugged in or on shore power. The only other thing I found was it might have a blown fuse. These are all things you've probably looked at already. I read a post where someone followed the wire back, unplugged it from a junction box and applied another 12v source to retract a failed awning. That might narrow down the issue. Let me know if you figure it out. My initial guess is its a blown fuse, either in the panel or inline with the circuit somewhere. Good luck.

DGShaffer 10-13-2013 09:10 AM

I reset all the breakers and checked all the fuses. I can't find the controller. Any ideas on where to find it?

camaromance 10-13-2013 11:06 AM

It might be behind the switch. I'll look later.

DGShaffer 10-13-2013 06:29 PM

Mine isn't so I'll have to keep looking. I'll call Thor tomorrow and let you know how I make out. Thanks for taking the time to jump in!

camaromance 10-13-2013 11:06 PM

Mine wasn't either. I followed the wire run to the drivers side and lost it in a big conduit. I'm sure it's something simple. It's not like the motor is just going to quit working because the battery ran down. I wonder if there is a reset on the motor?

Don't feel bad. I always forget to turn my parking lights off, too. Mine is always plugged in somewhere or the genset is running.

DGShaffer 10-14-2013 05:36 AM

It was three weeks since the Hershey show and that's when I put it away. I can't remember but something odd must have happened. When I went to pick it up, the first thing I noticed were that my steps were still deployed. Then I noticed the door was unlocked, then that the key was in the ignition, then that the battery was stone dead!

Not like me, I'm a creature of habit and doing things in succession to ensure that every step is completed.

DGShaffer 10-14-2013 08:47 AM

Well, a quick call to Thor and I've learned that the Awning controller is under a hidden panel in the compartment over the entry door. Short of a loose connection they either work or they don't. Since the fuses are good, that leaves either a bad controller or a bad connection somewhere. I have a trip to the factory on 11/18 so I'll let them figure it out

camaromance 10-14-2013 10:55 AM

Was the battery circuit drawing max current, trying to charge, when you tried to operate the awning? If so, the the amperage on your 12 volt system could have been high. That can blow fuses, lights, controllers, all sorts of bad electrical gremlins.

OC Bill 10-14-2013 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1765873)
Well, a quick call to Thor and I've learned that the Awning controller is under a hidden panel in the compartment over the entry door. Short of a loose connection they either work or they don't. Since the fuses are good, that leaves either a bad controller or a bad connection somewhere. I have a trip to the factory on 11/18 so I'll let them figure it out

We will be at the factory also on 11/18, see you there.

Oops, see you have a Challenger, maybe not the same location as for the Palazzo.

Bill

DGShaffer 10-14-2013 06:53 PM

This is the address of my appointment location:
701 County Road 15 Elkhart In.

tcopeland 10-14-2013 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OC Bill (Post 1766092)
We will be at the factory also on 11/18, see you there. Oops, see you have a Challenger, maybe not the same location as for the Palazzo. Bill

Everyone is together . We had all models there with us.
You need to elect a mayor for the village.

sbleiweiss 10-15-2013 09:00 AM

I have a new question especially for other Challenger owners. We have a 2013 Challenger 37DT. This is our first MH and this will be our frst winter. We are not winterizing but instead keeping it in a heated building. But we want to use it for trips south during the winter (from Chicago area). That leads me to two questions. First, I know that the basements with water in them are heated by ducts from the furnace. But how cold can it be outside and still rely on this system to avoid freezing? My second question is do these MHs tolerate any snow/slush on the road at all? Any tips/info/suggestions will be much appreciated.

rvbunz 10-15-2013 10:01 PM

The actual address for the service facility is 520 County Road 15. The plant is 701. All coaches are serviced there.

rvbunz 10-15-2013 10:07 PM

sbleiweiss, keeping your coach in a heated building will allow not to winterize. As far as keeping the pipes from freezing when you are traveling I would recommend wrapping them with insulated wrap you can get at Lowes, Home Depot or in your area Menards. I would think the bays where yor water is should be kept warm. Would be nice is a light could be keep in there for warmth, but I would worry about it when driving. as far as driving in the snow, you should use caution as always. Don't want to get in a skid. I don't know if I would drive in snow, I'd wait for roads to be completely plowed. Safe travels when you hit the road. Check us out at www.tmcoc.org

DGShaffer 10-16-2013 11:38 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1767273)
I have a new question especially for other Challenger owners. We have a 2013 Challenger 37DT. This is our first MH and this will be our frst winter. We are not winterizing but instead keeping it in a heated building. But we want to use it for trips south during the winter (from Chicago area). That leads me to two questions. First, I know that the basements with water in them are heated by ducts from the furnace. But how cold can it be outside and still rely on this system to avoid freezing? My second question is do these MHs tolerate any snow/slush on the road at all? Any tips/info/suggestions will be much appreciated.

The bulk of your plumbing is inside the coach and if you're traveling in it you'll be fine. I've had my low point and fresh water tank drains ice over but you would be surprised how hot the engine and exhaust get the underside of the coach. I travel from Jersey to Gulf shores each Christmas and never have a problem.

I was on 95 heading south through the big storm of 2010 (I think). We were in snow verom Maryland until Georgia, there were cars all over the sides of the highway but the MH just kept on rolling and I had my Jetta on a tow dolly

sbleiweiss 10-16-2013 11:42 AM

Do you mean the kind of insulation wrap that people put on pipes in basements or the kind that plugs into electric? If electric, how do you connect it?

sbleiweiss 10-16-2013 11:44 AM

Do you do anything special to prepare for this trip? Full water tank or less full? Do you put your galley slide out if camped in sub-freezing weather? Any special treatment of black and grey tanks?

dunkonu23 10-16-2013 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1768710)
The bulk of your plumbing is inside the coach and if you're traveling in it you'll be fine. I've had my low point and fresh water tank drains ice over but you would be surprised how hot the engine and exhaust get the underside of the coach. I travel from Jersey to Gulf shores each Christmas and never have a problem.

I was on 95 heading south through the big storm of 2010 (I think). We were in snow verom Maryland until Georgia, there were cars all over the sides of the highway but the MH just kept on rolling and I had my Jetta on a tow dolly

You sir, have a pair!

Scott


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