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DGShaffer 10-16-2013 01:48 PM

As long as you're not too cold then it's warm enough inside to keep things from freezing. Water has to be below 32 degrees for quite a bit for the cold to take hold and start freezing. Traveling south means that you'll only be in the coldest conditions for a day at the most.

If your planning on camping in sub freezing conditions then that's a whole different animal all together.

DGShaffer 10-16-2013 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkonu23 (Post 1768865)
You sir, have a pair!

Scott

Funny story from that trip. There was a little red car up about as far as what you see in the photo above. A gust of wind caught the powder in the pine trees to the right and I could see a dense cloud of snow crossing the highway. I knew what was going to happen so I started braking and soon I was in the cloud of snow with near zero visibility but I kept smoothly applying the brakes until I was at a full stop. When the snow cleared, there was that little red cart at a complete stop about ten feet in front of me!

DGShaffer 10-16-2013 02:22 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by dunkonu23 (Post 1768865)
You sir, have a pair!

Scott


Anyone that flies a Fury Stratus in 3D does :D

sbleiweiss 10-17-2013 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1768868)
As long as you're not too cold then it's warm enough inside to keep things from freezing. Water has to be below 32 degrees for quite a bit for the cold to take hold and start freezing. Traveling south means that you'll only be in the coldest conditions for a day at the most.

If your planning on camping in sub freezing conditions then that's a whole different animal all together.

I'm not planning on overnighting in sub-freezing conditions, but one nver knows. Weather patterns can surprise you. Maybe not once you are truly in the South, but on the way there and back. And I'm not worried about inside the coach so much as in the basements. After all, all the water tanks are in basements, plus there are lines obviously to and from each of them also running through basements. Also, there are those Fall and Spring trips to a northern destination where the weather might turn ugly in a surprising way. For example, we are heading to Long Island the first week of November. An unusual cold wave early could catch us.Most RV Parks I tried to book at were going to be closed for the season already. That worries me some.

DGShaffer 10-17-2013 11:23 AM

It sounds like you might be safer to just winterize it as you travel and use water from a container until you're satisfied that the temps will remain out of freezing

dunkonu23 10-17-2013 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1768883)
Funny story from that trip. There was a little red car up about as far as what you see in the photo above. A gust of wind caught the powder in the pine trees to the right and I could see a dense cloud of snow crossing the highway. I knew what was going to happen so I started braking and soon I was in the cloud of snow with near zero visibility but I kept smoothly applying the brakes until I was at a full stop. When the snow cleared, there was that little red cart at a complete stop about ten feet in front of me!

Good judgement there! Some folks would have just plowed through. White outs are no fun!

Scott

dunkonu23 10-17-2013 06:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1768906)
Anyone that flies a Fury Stratus in 3D does :D

MA makes good helicopters. If you'd like we can take this to PM's so as to not derail your great thread! (I'm USA Flight Team Manager for ALeeS RC, Inc.)

Scott

DGShaffer 10-17-2013 07:27 PM

There's actually a RC thread on this site. It hasn't been active for a while but it's fun chatting it up abut the hobby.

I was fortunate to shake that RC Heli monkey a few years back. I was in pretty heavy and if I totaled up the money I had in it, I'd curl up under a table and cry! I even built a Hirobo Vertol which was a monster to fly!

I still have my Vario Bell 47-D and my Trex 450SE but haven't flown either of them in years.

I'm actually a rated rotary pilot but haven't flown those either in about two years with my last flight being in a 1957 Bell 47-D over here in Jersey.

Now it's all RV'ing and motorcycling which consumes all my time

dunkonu23 10-18-2013 11:49 AM

It is a very expensive hobby! :) Being a full scale pilot would be cool! I wish I had the time to learn. My wife would probably freak out, though!

PM me about the classic RC Helicopters you have. :)

Scott

Thortogo 10-26-2013 06:42 PM

6th photo down...what is that mounted on cabinet beside bed?

sbleiweiss 10-27-2013 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1770062)
It sounds like you might be safer to just winterize it as you travel and use water from a container until you're satisfied that the temps will remain out of freezing

We would be, but my wife thinks its gross to have antifreeze in our potable water lines, etc. So we rent a space in a heated building, and will have to pick and choose when and where to travel in late Fall, Winter and early Spring. That is why I have been asking the questions that I have; because I am trying to get a handle on how cold (and for how long) the MH can tolerate, unwinterized, how well the furnace heats the basements, any tricks for making this more doable, etc.

So I bought an indoor/outdoor thermometer so that I can have a good feel (while traveling) for the outdoor temperature. I am actually wondering whether to put the outdoor transmitter into the water tank basement instead of truly outside. My thinking is that it is the temperature in that (and maybe other) basement that I really care about.

I am also thinking that maybe it will be wise to keep the galley slide in when the outside temperature dips below freezing, and maybe keeping cabinet doors under the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and to the W/D open when it is below freezing outside.

camaromance 10-27-2013 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1782643)
We would be, but my wife thinks its gross to have antifreeze in our potable water lines, etc. So we rent a space in a heated building, and will have to pick and choose when and where to travel in late Fall, Winter and early Spring. That is why I have been asking the questions that I have; because I am trying to get a handle on how cold (and for how long) the MH can tolerate, unwinterized, how well the furnace heats the basements, any tricks for making this more doable, etc. So I bought an indoor/outdoor thermometer so that I can have a good feel (while traveling) for the outdoor temperature. I am actually wondering whether to put the outdoor transmitter into the water tank basement instead of truly outside. My thinking is that it is the temperature in that (and maybe other) basement that I really care about. I am also thinking that maybe it will be wise to keep the galley slide in when the outside temperature dips below freezing, and maybe keeping cabinet doors under the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and to the W/D open when it is below freezing outside.

My dealer told me that you have to have continuous sub freezing weather for three days before water lines freeze up. I've camped and traveled several times in cold weather and never had a problem with lines freezing. The furnace does a really good job when your parked and engine heat will keep you safe when driving. Your water tank will be safe. If you're particularly concerned, place the outside thermometer in the plumbing compartment. There are a lot of exposed hoses behind the panel. You might also consider bypassing the built in water filter. Once bypassed, unscrew, drain, and remove the filter. I did a trip in northern PA in December a couple of years ago. It was very cold, sub freezing for the week I was parked. I placed my outside temp sensor in the plumbing compartment and found that if I left the compartment lights on, I generated enough heat to keep the compartment above freezing. It was in the low teens and the compartment never got below 40 degrees. Of course, I had the furnace going, too. The only real effect we experienced was the hot water didn't last as long. You can run the water heater on both electric and gas to help with this. Good luck.

Thortogo 10-27-2013 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thortogo (Post 1781941)
6th photo down...what is that mounted on cabinet beside bed?

I should have read on where you said you added the vacuum!

Thortogo 10-27-2013 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1782643)
We would be, but my wife thinks its gross to have antifreeze in our potable water lines, etc. So we rent a space in a heated building, and will have to pick and choose when and where to travel in late Fall, Winter and early Spring. That is why I have been asking the questions that I have; because I am trying to get a handle on how cold (and for how long) the MH can tolerate, unwinterized, how well the furnace heats the basements, any tricks for making this more doable, etc. So I bought an indoor/outdoor thermometer so that I can have a good feel (while traveling) for the outdoor temperature. I am actually wondering whether to put the outdoor transmitter into the water tank basement instead of truly outside. My thinking is that it is the temperature in that (and maybe other) basement that I really care about. I am also thinking that maybe it will be wise to keep the galley slide in when the outside temperature dips below freezing, and maybe keeping cabinet doors under the kitchen and bathroom sinks, and to the W/D open when it is below freezing outside.

We always keep all slides in when it gets very cold and fortunately always have plenty of move around room in our challenger. Also opening some of the cabinets too.

DGShaffer 10-27-2013 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1782708)
My dealer told me that you have to have continuous sub freezing weather for three days before water lines freeze up. I've camped and traveled several times in cold weather and never had a problem with lines freezing. The furnace does a really good job when your parked and engine heat will keep you safe when driving. Your water tank will be safe. If you're particularly concerned, place the outside thermometer in the plumbing compartment. There are a lot of exposed hoses behind the panel. You might also consider bypassing the built in water filter. Once bypassed, unscrew, drain, and remove the filter. I did a trip in northern PA in December a couple of years ago. It was very cold, sub freezing for the week I was parked. I placed my outside temp sensor in the plumbing compartment and found that if I left the compartment lights on, I generated enough heat to keep the compartment above freezing. It was in the low teens and the compartment never got below 40 degrees. Of course, I had the furnace going, too. The only real effect we experienced was the hot water didn't last as long. You can run the water heater on both electric and gas to help with this. Good luck.

Thank you! :thumb:

DGShaffer 10-27-2013 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thortogo (Post 1782721)
I should have read on where you said you added the vacuum!

I wasn't quite sure what or who you were referring to here. I bought one of those Dyson rechargeable vacuums and carry it in between the house and motor home. I just ordered a second cradle to keep it charged. Those things are pretty amazing and really work well. Their light weight keeps them from damaging anything when they're being pushed around.

DGShaffer 10-27-2013 05:31 PM

I learned a good lesson today and one that you should be interested in. This could have been much worse than it was.

When we set up this weekend at a campground, the next morning I noticed that I didn't have any hot water so I went outside and opened the cover to the hot water heater.

I found what I thought were wires melted from over current. There's a fused link (or an over temp link) in the wire that I was able to remove and then reconnect and the wire.

Once I connected it the igniter started clicking and the propane lit up. The flame was really weak and spilling out of the tube and started burning the wires again!

It seems that Spiders had built a nest in the tube! Once I removed the Web it fired up like normal.

The moral is that when I set up, turn on the hot water and check the flame through the inspection port. We use our MH almost every other weekend so this can happen in a short amount of time so be aware.

camaromance 10-27-2013 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1783236)
I learned a good lesson today and one that you should be interested in. This could have been much worse than it was. When we set up this weekend at a campground, the next morning I noticed that I didn't have any hot water so I went outside and opened the cover to the hot water heater. I found what I thought were wires melted from over current. There's a fused link (or an over temp link) in the wire that I was able to remove and then reconnect and the wire. Once I connected it the igniter started clicking and the propane lit up. The flame was really weak and spilling out of the tube and started burning the wires again! It seems that Spiders had built a nest in the tube! Once I removed the Web it fired up like normal. The moral is that when I set up, turn on the hot water and check the flame through the inspection port. We use our MH almost every other weekend so this can happen in a short amount of time so be aware.

Wow, Don. Close one. I'll be checking mine before we go in a couple of weeks. Thanks for posting. I guess it's that time of year when critters are looking for a place to spend the winter. Kinda fortunate it burned through the igniter wire, assuming that would kill the circuit. Glad it wasn't worse. That's karma giving you a pass for all your good deeds. Btw, I had a damn squirrel chew through the propane line to my grill the other day.

sbleiweiss 10-28-2013 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1782708)
My dealer told me that you have to have continuous sub freezing weather for three days before water lines freeze up. I've camped and traveled several times in cold weather and never had a problem with lines freezing. The furnace does a really good job when your parked and engine heat will keep you safe when driving. Your water tank will be safe. If you're particularly concerned, place the outside thermometer in the plumbing compartment. There are a lot of exposed hoses behind the panel. You might also consider bypassing the built in water filter. Once bypassed, unscrew, drain, and remove the filter. I did a trip in northern PA in December a couple of years ago. It was very cold, sub freezing for the week I was parked. I placed my outside temp sensor in the plumbing compartment and found that if I left the compartment lights on, I generated enough heat to keep the compartment above freezing. It was in the low teens and the compartment never got below 40 degrees. Of course, I had the furnace going, too. The only real effect we experienced was the hot water didn't last as long. You can run the water heater on both electric and gas to help with this. Good luck.

Good information. Thanks. By plumbing compartment do you mean the basement with the water tank in it? And are you using OEM lights in the basements? I didn't think these threw much light. I always wished I had a way to get incandescent bulbs in there for cold weather. But based on what you said I will try leaving them on when camping cold.

camaromance 10-28-2013 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1783942)
Good information. Thanks. By plumbing compartment do you mean the basement with the water tank in it? And are you using OEM lights in the basements? I didn't think these threw much light. I always wished I had a way to get incandescent bulbs in there for cold weather. But based on what you said I will try leaving them on when camping cold.

It's the compartment with the water valve panel and sewer valves. Behind the panel is a rats nest of hoses. I had a leaky connection and removed the panel to fix it and was surprised to see how many hoses were back there. The water in your fresh water tank will store a lot of heat. Your sewers make their own heat. I think Don (DGSHAFFER) rigged up a power outlet in one of his bays.

camaromance 10-28-2013 06:42 PM

[QUOTE="camaromance;1784756"] It's the compartment with the water valve panel and sewer valves. Behind the panel is a rats nest of hoses. I had a leaky connection and removed the panel to fix it and was surprised to see how many hoses were back there. The water in your fresh water tank will store a lot of heat. Your sewers make their own heat. I think DGSchaffer rigged up a power outlet in one of his bays.

sbleiweiss 10-29-2013 07:59 AM

[QUOTE=camaromance;1784757]
Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1784756)
It's the compartment with the water valve panel and sewer valves. Behind the panel is a rats nest of hoses. I had a leaky connection and removed the panel to fix it and was surprised to see how many hoses were back there. The water in your fresh water tank will store a lot of heat. Your sewers make their own heat. I think DGSchaffer rigged up a power outlet in one of his bays.

I have a question about keeping that one (water and sewer controls basement) warm. We have no way of closing the door to that basement if we have a hose connected; it sticks out past the level of the door. So unless you have figured a way around that, are you disconnecting the hose and running off of tank whenever it is cold out? BTW, it doesn't even look like we have a light in the potable water tank basement. I felt the OEM lights and they do throw a little bit of heat.

camaromance 10-29-2013 07:38 PM

I ran off the tank only. When it got low, I hooked the hose to refill, then drained and stowed it. We can make it about 4 days on a tank, including showers. Besides, I've found the water pump usually has better pressure than most campgrounds.

okiefrank 10-30-2013 12:32 AM

[QUOTE=sbleiweiss;1785389]
Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1784757)

I have a question about keeping that one (water and sewer controls basement) warm. We have no way of closing the door to that basement if we have a hose connected; it sticks out past the level of the door. So unless you have figured a way around that, are you disconnecting the hose and running off of tank whenever it is cold out? BTW, it doesn't even look like we have a light in the potable water tank basement. I felt the OEM lights and they do throw a little bit of heat.

The hose on mine kept the door ajar, so I bought a 90 degree metal hose elbow. works great and the door does not hit it.

DGShaffer 10-30-2013 05:01 AM

Same here. I bought a 90 degree brass connector from camping world. I leave that connected and the soft rubber plug now covers that when the hose isn't connected to it.

DGShaffer 10-30-2013 08:04 PM

I've been relocating a lot of my photos over to Phanfare. I just finished this one and thought it needed to be shared. It's from our trip out to Wyoming and taken on the day we rode into Red Lodge Montana to ride Beartooth Pass and Chief Joseph highway.

BearTooth Pass, part of our 9 day trip to Wyoming - Don and Cindy's Photos - Powered by Phanfare

camaromance 10-30-2013 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1787893)
I've been relocating a lot of my photos over to Phanfare. I just finished this one and thought it needed to be shared. It's from our trip out to Wyoming and taken on the day we rode into Red Lodge Montana to ride Beartooth Pass and Chief Joseph highway. BearTooth Pass, part of our 9 day trip to Wyoming - Don and Cindy's Photos - Powered by Phanfare

Nice photos, Don. Beautiful scenery. Can't wait to have time to see all of the US. Sorry about the bike. I guess it's true what they say about BMW's and Harley's. Every piece costs a hundred dollars.

DGShaffer 10-31-2013 04:58 AM

We were driving our first toy hauler which was a Thor Fun Mover class C. With the garage the only bed was the one above the cab and boy was that uncomfortable. So much so I spent a lot of time just driving. it was a 5,000 mile round trip and it only took me 2-1/2 days each way! We were able to get in 4 days of riding though so that was nice. After miles and miles of seeing Wall Drug highway signs we were able to see that. We encountered a lot of storms on the plains which were a source of concern a bunch of times on the trip out and back.

I brought back so many stories from that trip that I could write a paperback, unfortunately they're interesting only to me so I won't write the novel.

As far as the bike. I took photos and had initiated a claim before I even left Wyoming. Getting it repaired didn't take all that long so it wasn't a really big deal, just depressing at the time.

sbleiweiss 10-31-2013 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1786779)
Same here. I bought a 90 degree brass connector from camping world. I leave that connected and the soft rubber plug now covers that when the hose isn't connected to it.

How does the hose enter/leave the basement with the door closed? Mine has no opening in the floor for it. Are you running it through the port for the sewer line? Also, if I did that I wouldn't be able to have a water pressure regulator. Do you just live without one?

DGShaffer 10-31-2013 08:59 AM

You can do a search in this thread for my "Crapper Flapper". I designed my own storage tube replacement because I like and use the Rhino Flex hose and it didn't fit into the tube.

With my door, the sewer and water hose fit through side by side. I use an inline pressure regulator as well as a shutoff valve, they screw right into the 90 degree adapter and the door closes just fine.

camaromance 10-31-2013 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1788436)
You can do a search in this thread for my "Crapper Flapper". I designed my own storage tube replacement because I like and use the Rhino Flex hose and it didn't fit into the tube. With my door, the sewer and water hose fit through side by side. I use an inline pressure regulator as well as a shutoff valve, they screw right into the 90 degree adapter and the door closes just fine.

Ahhh, the crapper-flapper. For awhile there, I thought we were gonna have a naming contest for it. I guess that could have gotten a little rude for the public posting.

DGShaffer 10-31-2013 06:29 PM

That was John's name for it and I adopted it as my own in his absence. That guy just seemed to fall off the face of the earth didn't he?

camaromance 10-31-2013 07:01 PM

Yeah, he sure did. I sent him a message shortly after the Boston marathon incident but never heard anything back. Are you camping during the Veterans day weekend?

camaromance 10-31-2013 07:05 PM

I just ordered my 5 star tuner. I have to get the SCT unit so I can read the PCM code. The sticker was covered up with expansion foam and I didn't want to tear it apart looking for a sticker that might not be there. How did you figure out yours?

DGShaffer 10-31-2013 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1789175)
Yeah, he sure did. I sent him a message shortly after the Boston marathon incident but never heard anything back. Are you camping during the Veterans day weekend?

I have my appointment at the factory the week of November 18th. After that we're off to our favorite southern Christmas vacation spot, Dauphin Island in Gulf Shores Alabama!

DGShaffer 10-31-2013 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1789179)
I just ordered my 5 star tuner. I have to get the SCT unit so I can read the PCM code. The sticker was covered up with expansion foam and I didn't want to tear it apart looking for a sticker that might not be there. How did you figure out yours?

I have my SCT unit from when I added the tune to my Outlaw so I'll be using that to down load the data Mike needs to build the tune for my Challenger. The sticker was pretty visible on my Outlaw though. I'm waiting for the trip home from the factory to hook up the SCT module so that I can run a data log on the trip so he has a history to review. I'll get the tune installed for the trip south.

camaromance 10-31-2013 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1789251)
I have my SCT unit from when I added the tune to my Outlaw so I'll be using that to down load the data Mike needs to build the tune for my Challenger. The sticker was pretty visible on my Outlaw though. I'm waiting for the trip home from the factory to hook up the SCT module so that I can run a data log on the trip so he has a history to review. I'll get the tune installed for the trip south.

Sounds like you have it all figured out. The PCM is located exactly where the website said it would be. Unfortunately, the entire end where the three plugs attach at the firewall is completely covered in foam. I'm sure once you send Mike the data, he'll be able to tell which model PCM you have. I asked him if he could build me one for economy vice towing. I missed his call today and didn't get a chance to call him back.

DGShaffer 11-01-2013 05:01 AM

That's what mine was, 87 octane with towing. It's worth it just for the updated shifting schedule. The added throttle response and HP is a bonus

bdickson 11-10-2013 11:51 AM

Has anyone tried to remove the rear lights on their 2013 Challenger? I'm talking about the stop, turn and reverse lights on the back cap which on my coach are 3 separate, round lights. I'm thinking about converting to LED lights, so I removed the chrome ring from one of the fittings. The rest of the light assembly appears to have been installed from behind the cap! Is there a secret to getting it out?

bdickson 11-10-2013 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1800963)
Has anyone tried to remove the rear lights on their 2013 Challenger? I'm talking about the stop, turn and reverse lights on the back cap which on my coach are 3 separate, round lights. I'm thinking about converting to LED lights, so I removed the chrome ring from one of the fittings. The rest of the light assembly appears to have been installed from behind the cap! Is there a secret to getting it out?

Never mind, I figured it out. After removing the bezel, the light assembly can be pried out of the rubber surround with a small screwdriver blade. Its a sealed unit, there is no way to replace just the bulb.

rvbunz 11-10-2013 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1800982)
Never mind, I figured it out. After removing the bezel, the light assembly can be pried out of the rubber surround with a small screwdriver blade. Its a sealed unit, there is no way to replace just the bulb.

I have a backup light out, are you saying I cannot just change the bulb?

tcopeland 11-10-2013 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1801033)
I have a backup light out, are you saying I cannot just change the bulb?

Changed one on our trip. It's a sealed unit . Can't change just the bulb.

tcopeland 11-10-2013 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcopeland (Post 1801058)
Changed one on our trip. It's a sealed unit . Can't change just the bulb.

Got one at O'Riellys

bdickson 11-10-2013 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tcopeland (Post 1801062)
Got one at O'Riellys

Did you happen to notice if they had any LED units the same size?

tcopeland 11-10-2013 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1801078)
Did you happen to notice if they had any LED units the same size?

Sorry did not think of that.

bdickson 11-10-2013 04:31 PM

These are what Thor used:

1T-L4C- INCANDESCENT LAMP -BACKUP

and I'm pretty sure these LED lights would fit in the hole:

L15-0050- LED TAIL LAMP 52 DIODE

Webman9113 11-11-2013 07:37 AM

Question about cockpit bunk...
 
Hey, all -

We're looking into getting a Challenger 37KT (2014.5 model), and we had a question for anyone who's got the drop-down cockpit bunk that Thor is offering in it as an option. I read that Thor provides a standard Coleman air mattress, but is there enough space when the bunk is raised to leave in some sort of foam mattress and - most importantly (because we hate house chores between stops, LOL!) - can you leave the bed made when you raise it?

Also, does anyone have the 2014.5 model with the washer/dryer? I'd love to see any pics of that. :)

Thanks much!

rvbunz 11-11-2013 10:09 AM

Bruce, I have a backup light out. I called Thor to see if it is under warranty since it under a year old. It is, however I have to take it to a dealership to get it check. Well I decided to swap lights and the light from the other side won't work, so I have a wiring problem not a light. I also called Kaper II and the part number you listed L15-0050- LED TAIL LAMP 52 DIODE is not a back up light it is a clear lens with red led lights. She did some research for me and if you want to convert to LED's here is what you need: Amber, L030085 ($23.70 ea) Red L150090 ($23.70 ea) and Clear L160049 ($40.24 ea) Total for a complete set is $175.28 plus shipping. They charge whatever the shipper charges them, no extra. I'm thinking of ordering a set. By the way she told me that these are matching lights. All have the same number of diodes.

rvbunz 11-11-2013 10:16 AM

Webman9113, Yes the optional bunks come with a coleman air mattress. I don't belive you can leave it inflated when you store the bunk. I would call Thor customer service and ask them. I also have a gentleman at Total Value RV who I'm sure can answer your question. Call David at 866-282-4460, tell him Bob from NC told you to call. Good Luck

bdickson 11-11-2013 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1802071)
Bruce, I have a backup light out. I called Thor to see if it is under warranty since it under a year old. It is, however I have to take it to a dealership to get it check. Well I decided to swap lights and the light from the other side won't work, so I have a wiring problem not a light. I also called Kaper II and the part number you listed L15-0050- LED TAIL LAMP 52 DIODE is not a back up light it is a clear lens with red led lights. She did some research for me and if you want to convert to LED's here is what you need: Amber, L030085 ($23.70 ea) Red L150090 ($23.70 ea) and Clear L160049 ($40.24 ea) Total for a complete set is $175.28 plus shipping. They charge whatever the shipper charges them, no extra. I'm thinking of ordering a set. By the way she told me that these are matching lights. All have the same number of diodes.

Great information, thanks for sharing. Did she by any chance say if the turn signals will work as is or do you need to add resistors?

Webman9113 11-11-2013 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1802076)
Webman9113, Yes the optional bunks come with a coleman air mattress. I don't belive you can leave it inflated when you store the bunk. I would call Thor customer service and ask them. I also have a gentleman at Total Value RV who I'm sure can answer your question. Call David at 866-282-4460, tell him Bob from NC told you to call. Good Luck

Great, thanks for the info!

rvbunz 11-12-2013 06:41 AM

Bruce as far as I know they will work. If you plan on converting I would ask that question to make sure. She did say that they are matching and recommended this would be the way to go.

okiefrank 11-13-2013 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1803117)
Bruce as far as I know they will work. If you plan on converting I would ask that question to make sure. She did say that they are matching and recommended this would be the way to go.

Has anyone replaced or checked on replacing the high intensity light bulbs in the ceiling fixtures in the 37GT, they use a bunch of electricity as do the hanging lights on the bar.

DGShaffer 11-13-2013 04:48 AM

Not yet. Let us know what you come up with if you do though

JohnG2013KT 11-14-2013 09:17 AM

Adding DirecTV SWM - running coax
 
Hi ... Does anyone have any experience running additional coax/cables in their RV?

I've purchased an RV Tailgate setup package (DirecTV dish with a SWM 3LNB on a tripod). .. and I'm thinking that instead of mucking with the existing coax, over the air antenna and cable tv coax, I will just run a new drop .. providing a new connection just for the satellite either up near the front or perhaps in the left rear next to the existing connection.

The new sat receivers are all HDMI out now, so I will be adding 2 HDMI splitters and HDMI cables. This will mean that whenever I want to use the satellite feed, I will just have to switch the input source on each TV ..

My plan is to place one receiver and splitter under the TV in the desk slide and run a HDMI cable thru the storage compartment and come up in the couch slide, connecting to the exterior TV..

A second receiver and splitter will be located behind the TV in the bedroom with a HDMI cable run thru the closet over to the TV in the dining area.

My question/concern is routing the cable from the storage area up into the slides. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions? .. It seems that for the connection in the front, I can just add a coax wall plate underneath the slide and run the coax up thru the floor into the desk cabinet .. ? ..

Not sure about the right side slide .. I need to figure out how to run the coax thru the storage compartment up into the slide?

Any thoughts?

Thanks
John

camaromance 11-14-2013 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1805915)
Hi ... Does anyone have any experience running additional coax/cables in their RV? I've purchased an RV Tailgate setup package (DirecTV dish with a SWM 3LNB on a tripod). .. and I'm thinking that instead of mucking with the existing coax, over the air antenna and cable tv coax, I will just run a new drop .. providing a new connection just for the satellite either up near the front or perhaps in the left rear next to the existing connection. The new sat receivers are all HDMI out now, so I will be adding 2 HDMI splitters and HDMI cables. This will mean that whenever I want to use the satellite feed, I will just have to switch the input source on each TV .. My plan is to place one receiver and splitter under the TV in the desk slide and run a HDMI cable thru the storage compartment and come up in the couch slide, connecting to the exterior TV.. A second receiver and splitter will be located behind the TV in the bedroom with a HDMI cable run thru the closet over to the TV in the dining area. My question/concern is routing the cable from the storage area up into the slides. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions? .. It seems that for the connection in the front, I can just add a coax wall plate underneath the slide and run the coax up thru the floor into the desk cabinet .. ? .. Not sure about the right side slide .. I need to figure out how to run the coax thru the storage compartment up into the slide? Any thoughts? Thanks John

John, that sounds like a lot of extra work for nothing. The entertainment system is already wired for sat and has its own switching amp unit. Maybe I'm missing something. I think DGShaffer runs the same setup you plan to put in. I'm sure he will respond sometime soon. He's good like that.

DGShaffer 11-14-2013 11:26 AM

Actually I have had the worst luck with my tailgater sat dish up here in the east. My preference is to camp in the woods and with the satellites being so low on the horizon any obstructions at all keep me from being able to use it. I even bought a flag pole buddy and made a long post to put it on but have had so poor luck that I don't anticipate using it again until I head to Alabama. To be honest, I might just sell it and the receiver all together.

camaromance 11-14-2013 11:33 AM

That sucks. The wife and buy seasons of shows we didn't get around to watching. Makes for good entertainment during the down times. Netflix is nice to if you can get the bandwidth. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

TV is becoming less important these days, it seems. That might explain why I have more TVs in the MoHo than I do in the house.

JohnG2013KT 11-14-2013 01:57 PM

Hi Jimmy ... yes it's going to be a bit of work .. However, I don't think that I have a choice .. The SWM technology applies 21+ volts to the coax ... plus we are planning on using 2 receivers .. Not sure how the switch box would handle that .. and I don't want to lose the convenience of the OTA antenna and regular cable tv ..

Any thoughts on running the wiring?

Thanks
John

DGShaffer 11-14-2013 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaromance (Post 1806088)
That sucks. The wife and buy seasons of shows we didn't get around to watching. Makes for good entertainment during the down times. Netflix is nice to if you can get the bandwidth. Sorry it didn't work out for you.

TV is becoming less important these days, it seems. That might explain why I have more TVs in the MoHo than I do in the house.

I know what you mean there. I have my XM piped in through my GPS so a lot of time we just listen to FOX news on the radio. I have a lifetime subscription I bought about 5 years ago. They don't even offer that anymore so I never have to pay for XM again.

camaromance 11-14-2013 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JohnG2013KT (Post 1806232)
Hi Jimmy ... yes it's going to be a bit of work .. However, I don't think that I have a choice .. The SWM technology applies 21+ volts to the coax ... plus we are planning on using 2 receivers .. Not sure how the switch box would handle that .. and I don't want to lose the convenience of the OTA antenna and regular cable tv .. Any thoughts on running the wiring? Thanks John

John, I see what you mean. As a retired submariner, I wish Furuno would have told us they were sending 5vdc out to power the OEM GPS antenna before we wired it up to multi million dollar communications mast. I went through a couple up pre amps before we figured it out.

Each of your slides have a wire run and I would use those to route your coax. If you remove the couch, you will find plenty of access to the back of the outside tv. Your coax can be routed easily enough under the frame, obviously avoiding the exhaust and driveshaft. You should find wire access points in all the under storage compartments as each one has at least wires for the lights going in. Make sure you leave enough slack at the slides so it can travel without binding. Again, if you follow the wire runs for each slide, just mirror the length and you should be fine. I'm scratching my head a bit considering it already has a sat coax connection next to the video distro box. The distro box even has a sat selection button. Couldn't you hook up your receiver there and use the distro box to send your signal out to all the TVs? I would call Thor and ask them before going through all the trouble.

DMcRaney 11-15-2013 04:49 PM

Hi Guys,

I have been enjoying your posts and used your experiences in making the choice to buy my own Challenger 37GT. We love our coach and have been in it for a week. I wanted to share with you my experience with Camping World of Woodstock, GA. I will try not to go into to much detail, but will share share that it was the WORST buying experience of my life. If it had not been that I sold my truck (we went down to owning one vehicle) and turning in our TT five days before we were to take possession I would have walked away. I know, I should have waited to do all of that AFTER I purchased.

Here is a brief run down of the problems I had and was a result of the dealer being bogged down after selling 40+ coaches at the Atlanta rally (The General Manager actually told me this). Originally we were going to use Camping World of Woodstock for financing, but when they told me the best I could qualify for was a 5.9 rate. I went to Good Sams and got 4.39. After that the Camping Word Woodstock put the least amount of effort possible in the transaction. They would not even return calls to Good Sams Finance. Hence the rest of my problems.

First they missed delivery date by 36hours. normally not a big deal, but we had to be in DC for medical treatments at Walter Reed by Sat at 6am. They knew this.

Second they did not have the "ability" to clean it by the day we left . As it was My wife, 1 year old, and 3 dogs spent 10 hours at the dealer waiting for our unit.

Third, our down payment was supposed to be 14K, OOPS! you owe 22K because of the add ons (including Blue OX). That was supposed to be rolled in to the loan. But we did not find out until the day after that it could not be adjusted like the Finance guy from Good Sams thought. (not his fault).

Fourth, I had to track the General Manager down to discuss it. He was to bussy to call me first and when we did talk, he said he did not know anything about it. The Camping World of Woodstock's solution...Give us the money now, you are already in it and we did the work.

I had asked to pay it off over 6 months, after all there mess up. The General Manager informed me that this would not work, they would run him off if he did something like that.

Like I said, some of this is my fault. As a Traumatic Brain Injured Vet from Afghanistan, some times I don't think things through (or it takes me longer). Next time I buy though, the first thing I will do is start by NOT going to Camping World of Woodstock.

rvbunz 11-15-2013 06:06 PM

DMcRaney, I am sorry to hear that you had such a bad experience with CW. I guess they are no all alike. I purchased my Challenger DT at CW of Staesville , NC and the GM was outstanding. I would recommend that to send an e-mail to Marcus, the CEO of CW. You can find his email address in the highway mag. I hope you enjoy your coach. I am a retired Marine so I would like to thank you as a brother in arms for your service. If you are ever in the Jacksonville, NC area give me a call 910-389-8865.

DGShaffer 11-15-2013 08:12 PM

First off, thank you for the sacrifice you and your family has made in service of our country. Certainly this experience should not be born by anyone, especially by those that have given so much! God bless you and be well.

I'm sorry to hear of your experience, hopefully you have another certified Thor service center within your area if and when you need service. Camping World has a sketchy reputation at best and finding a good one is hit and miss. My local dealer is adequate but the fact that I'm driving mine out to the factory this week speaks volumes about my trust in them.

As the months pass, issues will undoubtedly mount as they do with most new coaches. My advise is to keep good records, open a dialog with a service center you feel you can trust, wait out the small things and only bring it in when it's absolutely necessary. They will need time to evaluate the failure, then get approval, then order parts, then do the repairs after they send back the wrong parts and receive the correct ones.

You should be able to find a bunch of tips here as well as get timely answers to questions specific to your 37GT.

I suggest you take the time to write an honest and factual review on the site I've linked to warn others that may be looking to use that CW in the future. It also doesn't hurt to mention that you found the new shop by way of the review site and will be leaving a review based on their performance.

RV Service Reviews

DGShaffer 11-18-2013 04:48 AM

I made it to the Thor Factory! Traveling through those storm cells, wind gusts near 60mph coming across rt 80, and nearly getting hit by my very own tornado made for an exciting trip west.

I'm sitting in the Thor customer lot just waiting to start my big day!

cenfl 11-18-2013 06:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1810977)
I made it to the Thor Factory! Traveling through those storm cells, wind gusts near 60mph coming across rt 80, and nearly getting hit by my very own tornado made for an exciting trip west.

I'm sitting in the Thor customer lot just waiting to start my big day!

Glad to hear you made it to Elkhart safe and sound :)

We had a generally good experience there last month. Unfortunately for us, the THOR Diesel Club had a rally there at the time, so the techs were kept busy fixing their issues. They did get our major problems (main slide, leveling system) fixed; however, a couple small items were missed. We couldn't extend our stay, so our coach is back at the dealer getting those taken care of.

Good luck.

camaromance 11-18-2013 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1810977)
I made it to the Thor Factory! Traveling through those storm cells, wind gusts near 60mph coming across rt 80, and nearly getting hit by my very own tornado made for an exciting trip west. I'm sitting in the Thor customer lot just waiting to start my big day!

Glad you made it safely. Good luck and I hope they get your problems solved.

rvbunz 11-18-2013 03:08 PM

Don, I was thinking of you when I saw all the bad weather reports for the mid-west. I'm sure glad you made it safely. What are you getting done to your Challenger? Does your coach lean to the right? If so ask Mark the service manager to check it out. He will probably tell you it's a Ford issue, but Ford tells me it's a Thor issue. Good luck with your repairs, they are great people in my opinion,but check your repairs carefully.
Safe travels.

OC Bill 11-18-2013 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1810977)
I made it to the Thor Factory! Traveling through those storm cells, wind gusts near 60mph coming across rt 80, and nearly getting hit by my very own tornado made for an exciting trip west.

I'm sitting in the Thor customer lot just waiting to start my big day!

We dropped our Palazzo off there this morning, was that you with the red pickup we parked beside ?

Bill

DGShaffer 11-19-2013 05:46 AM

I did mention the lean and showed him the weight sheet I had on the corners. I told him that I understood that Thor would blame Ford and in return, Ford would say that thor built it heavy on one side. I said that in fact, Ford would have a point. All I wanted was to get it fixed.

I'm here with a laundry list of repairs with the big deal being a leak on the drivers side slide. they made good progress today. I met a great couple in the lounge yesterday and last night we hung out in their Outlaw way past my bed time.

I'm sorry you weren't able to hang out after you dropped off your coach. It wasn't me in the red truck, I rented a red chrysler 200.

bdickson 11-19-2013 06:10 AM

Don,be sure to let us know what they say about the lean to the right. My 37GT leans about 3 inches. Henderson's said they could fix it with blocks under the spring mounts but I haven't had it done yet.

DGShaffer 11-19-2013 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OC Bill (Post 1812141)
We dropped our Palazzo off there this morning, was that you with the red pickup we parked beside ?

Bill

Come and join us in the lounge on the other side of the lot

OC Bill 11-19-2013 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1812482)
Come and join us in the lounge on the other side of the lot

Thanks for the offer but we just dropped it off and are staying in a hotel at the SR 19 exit, they have a lot of major things to do on my unit and I thought it would be better if they didn't have to worry about getting it back together each night so we could sleep in it.

They have to re-seal the entire rear section of the coach to prevent soot and dirt intrusion into the rear bed area above the engine and remove the full wall slide for a retro fit of upgraded motors, linking shafts and rollers that they now use on the 2014 models, plus about a dozen other repairs.

It looks like it will take all week as it is so I didn't want to make worse.
The slide repair requires some paint shop time.

How long do you think you will be there?

Bill

rvbunz 11-19-2013 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1812442)
I did mention the lean and showed him the weight sheet I had on the corners. I told him that I understood that Thor would blame Ford and in return, Ford would say that thor built it heavy on one side. I said that in fact, Ford would have a point. All I wanted was to get it fixed.

I'm here with a laundry list of repairs with the big deal being a leak on the drivers side slide. they made good progress today. I met a great couple in the lounge yesterday and last night we hung out in their Outlaw way past my bed time.

I'm sorry you weren't able to hang out after you dropped off your coach. It wasn't me in the red truck, I rented a red chrysler 200.

Can you call me at 910-389-8865?

Thank you
Bob

DGShaffer 11-19-2013 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OC Bill (Post 1812706)

How long do you think you will be there?

Bill

At least through tomorrow. I was just talking to my neighbor in a Palazzo and they were telling me to get out to the RV Hall of Fame so I'll be doing that tomorrow and possibly a stop at the Air Zoo and the RV salvage place.

So far, so good on the repairs. The bulk of the list has been handled. I arrived after it was put back into it's overnight spot so I'll find out in the morning if it looks like they can finish up tomorrow. The leaking slide is the big one and it seems they're saving that for last.

DGShaffer 11-19-2013 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rvbunz (Post 1813095)
Can you call me at 910-389-8865?

Thank you
Bob


Hey Bob,

I'll call you after I skype the wife and dogs :)

OC Bill 11-19-2013 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1813116)
At least through tomorrow. I was just talking to my neighbor in a Palazzo and they were telling me to get out to the RV Hall of Fame so I'll be doing that tomorrow and possibly a stop at the Air Zoo and the RV salvage place.

So far, so good on the repairs. The bulk of the list has been handled. I arrived after it was put back into it's overnight spot so I'll find out in the morning if it looks like they can finish up tomorrow. The leaking slide is the big one and it seems they're saving that for last.

Saw your friend with the Outlaw at the Thor diesel factory tour today, we will stop by the service center tomorrow after we tour the Newmar factory and eat lunch at the Amish Acres next door to the Newmar factory, maybe you will be there then and we can say hello, I haven't heard anything about progress on mine so I will probably see it when we stop by.

Bill

DMcRaney 11-20-2013 03:35 PM

Hi guys,

I started following the thread from the beginning. I was hoping to jump back to an earlier conversation. I really ;like the upgraded heat registers. I have the 37GT and am wondering if the larger size helps heat the coach? The front of our MH gets like an ice box and only has two registers, one in the kitchen and one behind the driver seat. The back gets hot like an oven. Do any of yall have the same problem?

Thanks,
Dave

DGShaffer 11-20-2013 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMcRaney (Post 1814572)
Hi guys,

I started following the thread from the beginning. I was hoping to jump back to an earlier conversation. I really ;like the upgraded heat registers. I have the 37GT and am wondering if the larger size helps heat the coach? The front of our MH gets like an ice box and only has two registers, one in the kitchen and one behind the driver seat. The back gets hot like an oven. Do any of yall have the same problem?

Thanks,
Dave

Hey Dave,

The registers I installed have built in balancers. I have the ability to choke off heat in both of the bathroom and the bedroom. That forces more heat foreword. I do think most of the issues in front are due to poor insulation

bdickson 11-20-2013 06:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DMcRaney (Post 1814572)
Hi guys,

I started following the thread from the beginning. I was hoping to jump back to an earlier conversation. I really ;like the upgraded heat registers. I have the 37GT and am wondering if the larger size helps heat the coach? The front of our MH gets like an ice box and only has two registers, one in the kitchen and one behind the driver seat. The back gets hot like an oven. Do any of yall have the same problem?

Thanks,
Dave

That's odd. My 2013 37GT has 3 registers in the living/kitchen area: one near the sink, one in front of the trash can door and one in the middle of the floor just aft of the entrance door. The bedroom and bathroom does get too hot when the living area is just right. As a temporary measure I stuffed crumpled aluminum foil behind the circular vents, blocking off about 60% of each one. I keep meaning to measure them and get adjustable registers, but the Rube Goldberg solution is working pretty well.

DGShaffer 11-20-2013 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1812457)
Don,be sure to let us know what they say about the lean to the right. My 37GT leans about 3 inches. Henderson's said they could fix it with blocks under the spring mounts but I haven't had it done yet.

My coach goes back to the Ford Chassis shop tomorrow. The great news is that they are installing higher rated springs on the heavy side which is the proper solution over adding the blocks which just compresses the springs, I came here prepared with a weight sheet for all four corners which showed the heavy corner being on the side that sits low, I really was surprised when he told me this and really impressed

bdickson 11-20-2013 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1814768)
My coach goes back to the Ford Chassis shop tomorrow. The great news is that they are installing higher rated springs on the heavy side which is the proper solution over adding the blocks which just compresses the springs, I came here prepared with a weight sheet for all four corners which showed the heavy corner being on the side that sits low, I really was surprised when he told me this and really impressed

So is this being done under warranty?

DGShaffer 11-20-2013 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1814788)
So is this being done under warranty?

Yes it is. My warranty is up in February

bdickson 11-20-2013 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1814802)
Yes it is. My warranty is up in February

So is mine. I see a trip to a Ford dealer in my future.

DGShaffer 11-20-2013 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1814811)
So is mine. I see a trip to a Ford dealer in my future.


I had contacted a Ford truck center and they were going to stuff blocks in it at which time I would have been in the middle of a finger pointing war between them and Thor. That's why I weighed it and brought that data here with me. I told them that I wanted my findings recorded and added to my record and that I wanted them to fight with Ford as to who was to cover it and to just leave me out of it.

If I were you I would find a place with a scale so that you can weigh the corners with all of the bay's unloaded. With that, Thor has to take responsibility for overloading the passenger side.

I'd be curious to see if they try to point at all the suspension work you had done as a cause of the issue though.

bdickson 11-20-2013 08:04 PM

I guess the question is, what are your differential weights?

rvbunz 11-20-2013 08:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1814914)
I guess the question is, what are your differential weights?

Don what Ford dealer is replacing your springs? Is it Jordan up there in Elkhart?

DGShaffer 11-21-2013 07:29 AM

I met with the service writer this morning and it seems that Ford won't do anything if the lean is 3/4 or less. With that, they are going to install longer U bolts and shims right here.

I posted my weights earlier in this thread but the net is 700 to the passenger side and 900 at the rear axle

sbleiweiss 11-21-2013 07:56 AM

My 37 DT has the same heat balance problem. Adjustable registers added in bedroom and bathroom have solved those areas being too hot, but front is still too cold. We have bad drafts coming in under both front slides (especially under the dinette slide). We have an appointment in Elkhart for April (I can't go sooner because we don't winterize). After they fix those leaks, we'll see if the front warms better. If not I think an electric space heater is in our future.

On a different subject, after seeing mention here that the new 37 KTs now come equiped for washer and dryer I made the mistake (?) of telling the wife. We originally wante the KT, actually had one under contract, before deciding we simply needed the W/D, so bought the DT instead. Now wife wants to trade the less than year old DT for a new KT. Grrrrrr. This may turn out to be a very expensive forum (ha ha).

rvbunz 11-21-2013 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1815313)
I met with the service writer this morning and it seems that Ford won't do anything if the lean is 3/4 or less. With that, they are going to install longer U bolts and shims right here.

I posted my weights earlier in this thread but the net is 700 to the passenger side and 900 at the rear axle

Can you get the specifics of what they do so others like myself can get our lean issue addressed and corrected?
Thanks

bdickson 11-21-2013 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1815313)
I posted my weights earlier in this thread but the net is 700 to the passenger side and 900 at the rear axle

it's amazing that 700 pounds on a 22,000 pound vehicle could cause that much of a lean.

DGShaffer 11-21-2013 03:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bdickson (Post 1815487)
it's amazing that 700 pounds on a 22,000 pound vehicle could cause that much of a lean.

The differential at the rear axle is 930 pounds but I agree, it doesn't seem like much. but with the amount of owners experiencing this same issue it can't be blamed on weak passenger side springs?

The total offset is reduced by the batteries and hydraulic mounted on the drivers side causing the front to be heavier by 230 on that side.

The only other explanation is that its built with a lean. Going through the factory tour, I can't see how that could happen

camaromance 11-21-2013 09:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DGShaffer (Post 1815889)
The differential at the rear axle is 930 pounds but I agree, it doesn't seem like much. but with the amount of owners experiencing this same issue it can't be blamed on weak passenger side springs? The total offset is reduced by the batteries and hydraulic mounted on the drivers side causing the front to be heavier by 230 on that side. The only other explanation is that its built with a lean. Going through the factory tour, I can't see how that could happen

All that weight is as far out from centerline as it can get. Maybe that has something to do with it.

DGShaffer 11-24-2013 06:59 AM

2 Attachment(s)
I'm back from my big adventure to Indiana! I had an opportunity to hang out with three really nice couples while there and I hope to see them again soon.

My expectations for the high level of service I had grown to expect from a Thor factory visit through conversations here were met and more.

As I had been told, though I had a pretty long list of bothersome issues on top of the slide leak, things crept up between the time I submitted my list and my visit to the plant. Everything, no matter how incidental, was taken care of without hesitation. Even a couple of things that were caused by me and the Tornado's I drove through to get there.

Andy was my assigned technician, he was knocking on my door at 7:00 each morning. The first day he caught me taking a shower but after that I was ready to roll on time. He briefed me each morning on what he had done and what he would be doing that day.

The guys in the service center are really creative in the way they remedy issues that come up. You would think that all of their repair ideas would be implemented in the build process but it's all about money to the front office.

Thor is quickly becoming one of the largest builders of recreational vehicles from the most inexpensive to their top of the line Tuscany. I think they are very happy building within that price point and can leave the production of the ubber expensive coaches to the likes of Phaeton and Newell.

While I was there I toured both the Thor diesel, Challenger and Outlaw outlaw line in their newly acquired Monaco facility of 17 acres under roof and the Newmar facility with their 23 building layout. The only thing I liked in the Newmar design over the Thor was the 16" stud placement and the batten insulation. Other than that, Thor has them beat hands down in almost every other phase of build.

So be happy and appreciate your Thor purchase. For the money, you now own a very well made and thought out coach

DGShaffer 11-24-2013 07:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 1815347)
My 37 DT has the same heat balance problem. Adjustable registers added in bedroom and bathroom have solved those areas being too hot, but front is still too cold. We have bad drafts coming in under both front slides (especially under the dinette slide). We have an appointment in Elkhart for April (I can't go sooner because we don't winterize). After they fix those leaks, we'll see if the front warms better. If not I think an electric space heater is in our future.

On a different subject, after seeing mention here that the new 37 KTs now come equiped for washer and dryer I made the mistake (?) of telling the wife. We originally wante the KT, actually had one under contract, before deciding we simply needed the W/D, so bought the DT instead. Now wife wants to trade the less than year old DT for a new KT. Grrrrrr. This may turn out to be a very expensive forum (ha ha).

Your DT is prepped for a washer drier unit in between the sinks in the bathroom so save yourself a bundle on depreciation and have a unit put in. I negotiated one with my deal and it works great!

rvbunz 11-24-2013 10:23 AM

Don, were you able to track down Jon Krider? Also how is your lean repair? What did they actually do?

DGShaffer 11-24-2013 11:53 AM

I wasn't able to actually speak with anyone. They must have a lot of meetings.

They ended up putting shims since my lean was less that Ford's spec of 3/4" or greater. When I first noticed it I was telling everyone that it was at least 1-1/2". Then I actually measured it and found that it was in fact only 1/2" :D

Adding the shims meant that they had to have longer U-Bolts made. They also had to get the torque up to 500 pounds which meant that they had to locate a torque wrench capable of generating that much torque

rvbunz 11-24-2013 09:09 PM

Don, where did they place the shims? Are you able to take pictures?

DGShaffer 11-25-2013 04:44 AM

I didn't take pictures but they go in between the springs and the axle and that's why the U-Bolts had to be longer than stock.

rvbunz 11-25-2013 11:16 AM

I just measure the difference from left to right. I placed a tape measure under the front left and right cap in front of the wheel wells then under the rear cargo doors before the slant and I come up with a 1and 1/4" difference. Reading Don's post leads me to believe that this maybe a Ford issue?


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