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LyonsL 12-30-2014 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2360080)
I completed my last MOD's for a while, out of money and idea's :) I installed my RV quick shades to the driver and passenger windows . I trimmed these to fit. These install in less than minute and match the front auto sun shade perfectly .

Here is link to where I bought them and the size, they were 91.00 with shipping. RV Shades Pilot Co-Pilot Kit 48x42
https://www.irv2.com/attachments/phot...ce6f73390e.jpg

I thought about replacing the factory curtains and installing dual shades but found that wouldn't work because of the shape of the side windows. The wife made new curtains but that didn't solve the lack of day shades issue. Your mod is the perfect answer for us. Thanks for sharing!

bigdaddy5120 12-30-2014 12:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2362722)
I thought about replacing the factory curtains and installing dual shades but found that wouldn't work because of the shape of the side windows. The wife made new curtains but that didn't solve the lack of day shades issue. Your mod is the perfect answer for us. Thanks for sharing!

Glad it was some help. You might want to look at these flip shades , I would have bought them but I didn't find out about them until I had already odered the quick shades.Products | Magne Shade | UV Fabrics, Sunshade for RV, RV Shade, Installs from the ground, Magnetic Shade, Magnet Sun Shade
Side Window curtains :
I am thinking of borrowing the idea I found in the Palazzo mod thread about making a filler piece for the angled windows and installing a pull down shades. The shape of side windows are wider at the bottom than the top thus making it impossable to to install a pull down shade to cover the entire window without a filler. Any thoughts on this ? Here is a link to Palazzo mod thread : https://www.irv2.com/forums/f281/pala...ml#post1937424

LyonsL 12-30-2014 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2362773)
Glad it was some help. You might want to look at these flip shades , I would have bought them but I didn't find out about them until I had already odered the quick shades.Products | Magne Shade | UV Fabrics, Sunshade for RV, RV Shade, Installs from the ground, Magnetic Shade, Magnet Sun Shade
Side Window curtains :
I am thinking of borrowing the idea I found in the Palazzo mod thread about making a filler piece for the angled windows and installing a pull down shades. The shape of side windows are wider at the bottom than the top thus making it impossable to to install a pull down shade to cover the entire window without a filler. Any thoughts on this ? Here is a link to Palazzo mod thread : https://www.irv2.com/forums/f281/pala...ml#post1937424

I also thought about installing the dual shades and making a filler piece but decided to simply replace the curtains instead. We were planning to spend the winter months in the coach and the wife wanted to replace the factory curtains quickly and easily so she made the replacement curtains.

The flip shades might be a better fit for us. I like the idea of using the flip shade to cover half of the side window to protect us from the glaring sun while driving. I also like how they store when not in use. After watching the video, I'm assuming that they are cut in a square or rectangular shape and might not flip up properly if cut to fit the exact shape of the side window. That would be fine for our purposes. They would still cover most of the window to block the sun while parked.

Thanks again for the info.

ctpres 01-01-2015 08:16 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
1 Attachment(s)
#44. Got lucky I guess. DW pulled roll of TP from our new undersink storage and it was WET. Since roof vents, drain plumbing and numerous water lines run under sink I wasted a lot of time looking in the wrong place. Turned out: 1. have not calibrated auto level and coach slightly tilts down from back to front, 2. water pressure at that park was a bit higher than normal and 3. I failed to use pressure regulator.
Water was dripping from BOTH hot water tank plumbing connections. Channel lock pliers and tightened both fittings - leak fixed. Several hours with fans and heaters running dried wet wood and averted any damage. I saw signs of leak by removing service panel under mattress at head of bed. But to get at water heater I had to remove everything from aft side of under bed storage, bend my old body way beyond it's normal range and get into bed storage space in order to remove large service panel and work on the connections. Note in picture that water heater bypass valves are still being used even though new plumbing control valve is supposed to have water heater bypass position. Do I have two water heater bypass's, one being redundant and very hard to get to? I probably won't answer that question until I have to winterize - which I hope is never. Also note that if bypass plumbing is redundant a lot of water is wasted clearing all that extra plumbing waiting for hot water at faucet. Boondockers could save water by removing all excess plumbing on the aft side of tank connections. Not to mention eliminating about TWENTY unnecessary pex connections, adding plumbing parts to your spare parts supply and with a bit of woodwork you could increase under bed storage space.

bigdaddy5120 01-01-2015 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365088)
#44. Got lucky I guess. DW pulled roll of TP from our new undersink storage and it was WET. Since roof vents, drain plumbing and numerous water lines run under sink I wasted a lot of time looking in the wrong place. Turned out: 1. have not calibrated auto level and coach slightly tilts down from back to front, 2. water pressure at that park was a bit higher than normal and 3. I failed to use pressure regulator.
Water was dripping from BOTH hot water tank plumbing connections. Channel lock pliers and tightened both fittings - leak fixed. Several hours with fans and heaters running dried wet wood and averted any damage. I saw signs of leak by removing service panel under mattress at head of bed. But to get at water heater I had to remove everything from aft side of under bed storage, bend my old body way beyond it's normal range and get into bed storage space in order to remove large service panel and work on the connections. Note in picture that water heater bypass valves are still being used even though new plumbing control valve is supposed to have water heater bypass position. Do I have two water heater bypass's, one being redundant and very hard to get to? I probably won't answer that question until I have to winterize - which I hope is never. Also note that if bypass plumbing is redundant a lot of water is wasted clearing all that extra plumbing waiting for hot water at faucet. Boondockers could save water by removing all excess plumbing on the aft side of tank connections. Not to mention eliminating about TWENTY unnecessary pex connections, adding plumbing parts to your spare parts supply and with a bit of woodwork you could increase under bed storage space.

WOW! I guess they really changed where things are located on the 2015 KT, I can access my water heater from under the kitchen sink through an access panel.

I never use the auto level feature anymore, don't like the violent way it jerks the coach around and the fact that most of the time it will pull the back wheels off the ground. I always use the manual way and am able to level and keep the wheels on the ground. I carry a 3 foot level to use to check the coach , I trust that more than what was programmed. I guess some day I will reprogram mine.

The only leak I have experienced was under the kitchen sink, seems they didn't tighten the sink plumbing up to well , I used some Teflon tape and tightened all connections for both the kitchen and bathroom sinks. After I hook up I always check for leaks(with a flash light) about 30 minutes after I connect the water.

Anyways hope you don't have anymore problems !! Happy 2015 !

ctpres 01-01-2015 01:39 PM

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1 Attachment(s)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

ctpres 01-01-2015 01:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdaddy5120 (Post 2365152)
WOW! I guess they really changed where things are located on the 2015 KT

Yes - big time! Water heater under bed and furnace under kitchen sink. That leaves space under frig open, other than being used as return air for furnace. As soon as I figure out how to get adequate air return surface area - our frig will be sitting on the floor where it belongs. AND DW can get to the whole freezer without a step stool! PS - haven't told her that yet. Don't want to be rushed into the project.
Re. auto level. My experience has been - once calibrated - it works pretty good. BTW 15KT has newest Lippert leveling controller. Complete with display. I am getting used to it and like it much better than the old one. It's part of the Rapid Camp system.

sbleiweiss 01-01-2015 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365604)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

Very cool! We have that too but I had no idea until you pointed it out. Thanks.

ctpres 01-02-2015 07:24 AM

Dumb design #2
 
Dumb/Bad design number one was rear gas fill.

#2 Smoke detector installed on ceiling at top of entry stairs about five feet from cooktop. Convection/microwave vent hood has provisions for external vent but none installed! When using cooktop burners, smoke detector goes off. If using convection built in vent hood - smoke detector just goes off sooner as vent blows air straight at detector. Smoke detector is designed so that if battery is removed it won't latch closed (THIS IS GOOD) - so our detector battery is removed and detector lid is taped closed (NOT GOOD.) The only other option is to use kitchen ceiling vent fan as an exhaust fan. NOT GOOD - you are wasting a large volume of heated/cooled air and eventually ceiling will become coated with grease!
From a "life safety" standpoint the entry detector provides virtually no protection for sleeping occupants of front or rear bedroom with doors closed. Following is worth repeating.


Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2270708)
#6 Our 2010 Damon Daybreak and our 2015 Thor Challenger came from factory with only one smoke detector. I was in alarm business for over thirty years and am not aware of any code that would allow that. Without the details - there must be a smoke detector in EVERY sleeping area and one outside sleeping area. In the 37KT floor plan that means THREE detectors. I added two before we even spent the first night in our new RV. One in front and rear sleeping areas. Detectors exactly like the one in our 2015 are available from Lowes, $9.47 for a package of two. Lowe's item number 304184 or First Alert number FG200B2. Do your family a favor and be sure you have enough detectors for your floor plan. If you are not sure how many you need - PM me with floor plan and length of RV. Basically if there is a door or even curtain between existing detector and a bed - there needs to be a detector added.


ctpres 01-02-2015 11:15 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#46. DW and I are really not very big people - but we both found it nearly impossible to shower without hitting faucet handle and getting shockingly hot or cold water. Then suffering thru readjustment. At first I considered replacing handles with round ones or even cutting some off end of handle and smoothing cut end. I finally opted to first try different handle positions. Handle secured to stem with set screw. Since faucet stem had a flat spot that mated with D shaped hole in handle that was not possible without modifying something. I decided to drill plastic handle. First I enlarged hole with 5/16 bit then followed up with 3/8 and a rattail file. Now I can position handle anywhere I want including back in the original position in a mater of seconds.
First pic is before mod and second is after mod with handle rotated to test position.

camato5 01-02-2015 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365604)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

HMMM I have a 2014 Thor Tuscany 40 XTE and I believe I will check under that inside step when I get home. I wonder if they did the same thing as they did on your unit That would be some neat storage. I'll let ya'll know

LyonsL 01-02-2015 04:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2365604)
#45. Guess what I found today? Second or middle inside step opens for storage! Carpet and rubber stair tread was keeping lid from opening over half way. Glue still tacky so I just pulled rubber tread out enough at hinge side - so I could cut some off all the way across the back edge. About 1/4 inch was enough. Haven't decided what goes in our new space yet but somehow I bet we will fill it up.

I keep "RV breakdown tools" in mine, i.e. triangular reflectors, fluorescent vest, large socket & ratchet to remove rear wheel hubs, truck tire gauge, rags, spare flashlight, etc. It's on a safe side of the coach and you have easy access to it.

LyonsL 01-02-2015 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2366403)
#2 Smoke detector installed on ceiling at top of entry stairs about five feet from cooktop. Convection/microwave vent hood has provisions for external vent but none installed! When using cooktop burners, smoke detector goes off. If using convection built in vent hood - smoke detector just goes off sooner as vent blows air straight at detector. Smoke detector is designed so that if battery is removed it won't latch closed (THIS IS GOOD) - so our detector battery is removed and detector lid is taped closed (NOT GOOD.) The only other option is to use kitchen ceiling vent fan as an exhaust fan. NOT GOOD - you are wasting a large volume of heated/cooled air and eventually ceiling will become coated with grease!
From a "life safety" standpoint the entry detector provides virtually no protection for sleeping occupants of front or rear bedroom with doors closed.

Our previous coach had the same issue. For now, we open the kitchen window slightly and run the kitchen ceiling fan. Come spring (and with a little courage) I will be installing an exhaust vent for the convection microwave.

M72561 01-02-2015 05:10 PM

looking to install a direct tv hd satellite and want to do it myself,has anyone else done this before. I have a 2014 KT

thanks


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