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ctpres 01-17-2015 07:51 AM

Keep up with Damon Diva
 
Been following the major rebuild since day one. Thought others would be interested in this project - starts at post #277
https://https://www.irv2.com/forums/f1...139869-20.html
The trap replacement would really clean up under sink storage, eliminate air admittance valve and make winterizing a bit faster/cheaper.


Product website https://www.hepvo.com/

sbleiweiss 01-17-2015 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Claudia44 (Post 2385229)
I have the awning in it's lowest position and it touches the slide out but no issues opening or retracting. The awning does not have any dimples from the slide out under neath. Lower your awning and enjoy!

Claudia..

Yours must be different than Jimmy's and mine. I wonder how/why? Our's touch even if lowered one notch on one side. They would bend over the slide topper badly if lowered all the way.

sbleiweiss 01-17-2015 09:49 AM

[QUOTE=ctpres;2385198]Here is mine:


Laundry chute

What do you have in mind for this chute? Where would it start and end? How would you do it? Of everything on your list, this one really surprised me.

ctpres 01-17-2015 01:58 PM

[QUOTE=sbleiweiss;2386320]
Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2385198)
Here is mine:
Laundry chute What do you have in mind for this chute? Where would it start and end? How would you do it? Of everything on your list, this one really surprised me.

Still trying to decide on location for drop. Easy way is to just cut out floor and use cutout as a plug. Not on top of my list due to our age. Most likely will sacrifice lower half of night stand on left/aft side of bed. Door front will become cover for chute and remaining storage . Basement will simply be a tub that slides into rails under chute. Laundry day - pull out tub and go. Not very high on priority list right now.

jcullipher 01-17-2015 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ctpres (Post 2382578)
RVredneck - If your frig is elevated about ten inches above floor - ask why.

There is nothing under it and only a little woodwork is necessary to create adequate return air opening. Bet a lot of DW's would be real happy if frig sat on floor. I plan on dropping ours this spring but wonder if there is a technical reason that I will regret.


Our 2015 has two hot water heater bypass systems! Why?

When you see your HWH installed look for a bypass setup at the HWH and if there is one it is redundant. We all can remove the excess plumbing and save a lot of water wasted waiting for pipes to clear out of the cold water.

Sure wish I had been there to see ours built. Tell us more. If they will let you - take LOTS of pictures. Good to know in the future what is behind panels, under sinks, where studs and wall braces are.


I also have a bypass on the water heater itself, but have two valves in the wet bay, marked "bypass". I have not figured out the purpose of this. Without knowing for sure about those two valves, I just disregarded them and bypassed at the water heater. I have not tried to trace down just how those in the wet bay are plumbed. I have a 2013DT



Jimmy

ctpres 01-18-2015 07:40 AM

Plumbing problem!
 
Found signs of water in shower and eventually tracked the source down to kitchen sink. I was able to recreate backup. If both sides of kitchen sink are around half full and both stoppers are removed a lot of sink drain water will backup into shower. Depending on just how level coach is I am sure it could happen with less water in sink. Just thinking about how the plumbing is set up I can't see any way to fix without bigger ID drain pipe between shower and grey tank or installing the Hepvo drain trap mentioned in post #1569. I do not like idea of using Hepvo in shower because with it installed there is no telling where a full and overflowing grey tank would show up. Since we hope to visit factory in spring - I think we will save this problem for them. Maybe by then others will report same problem and the fix will be available

ctpres 01-18-2015 07:01 PM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
2 Attachment(s)
#52 After a few weeks of living in our KT finally deciding on resting place for a number of things. Sometimes like for step stool storage I need to do a little extra. Step stool stored very nicely next to trash can. Problem was, when trash can removed step stool usually fell over. Twelve inch piece of 1x2, small scrap plywood, a few screws, five minutes and done. Think I mentioned it before - I am not staining/painting anything until almost done with everything. Last coach mod woodwork ended up with different colors. Hope doing it all at same time things will be a bit more uniform.

camato5 01-19-2015 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2387250)
I also have a bypass on the water heater itself, but have two valves in the wet bay, marked "bypass". I have not figured out the purpose of this. Without knowing for sure about those two valves, I just disregarded them and bypassed at the water heater. I have not tried to trace down just how those in the wet bay are plumbed. I have a 2013DT



Jimmy

IF you have a filter on your system the by pass in the wet bay is to by pass that filter, That is the way it is in my Tuscany. One by pass in the wet bay for the filter. The water heater by pass is in the basement behind a panel.

bdickson 01-19-2015 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcullipher (Post 2387250)
I also have a bypass on the water heater itself, but have two valves in the wet bay, marked "bypass". I have not figured out the purpose of this. Without knowing for sure about those two valves, I just disregarded them and bypassed at the water heater. I have not tried to trace down just how those in the wet bay are plumbed. I have a 2013DT Jimmy

The bypass knobs in the wet bay are for the water filter.

ctpres 01-19-2015 09:39 AM

More Mod's Fixes and Upgrades
 
3 Attachment(s)
#53 Every once in awhile I have a brainstorm and can't take time to make it right and done the first time. This is one - so let's just call it a prototype. Storing sink and stove top covers has been a problem from day one. Finally settled on sink covers on bed platform under mattress. We even leave them there during travel. Since sink used many times a day we really don't use sink covers very often so being handy is not a priority. Stove top covers are used daily and need to be handy. Parts used in rev1: two inch screw, one inch tube spacer between wall and 1x2 long enough to reach - seven or so inches long is good, plus a long round magnet. Screw goes into wall ABOVE backsplash. Magnet holds wood to bottom of convection MW and pretty much out of view when not used. DW is happy happy.

NITEHAWK 01-19-2015 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbleiweiss (Post 2378708)
Has anyone replaced or adjusted the windshield wipers to make better contact with window? Seems there are always stretches of wiper missing the window completely. Got behind a deicer truck yesterday in Arkansas and the MH is a mess.

I strongly recommend you buy a bottle of Turtle Wax ICE synthetic car polish and treat your windshield. I do ours every time I clean the windshield before taking off on a trip. It works great!! Put it on (even on the rubber seals--won't turn white), wipe it off after it dries, then wipe it down again after a few hours.
I used to use Rain-X but it is very smeary. Doesn't last as long or work as well as the T-W-ICE.

ctpres 01-20-2015 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LyonsL (Post 2333148)
The first (bottom) inside entry step of our Challenger 37KT was lower than the door sill and it was awkward and uncomfortable when entering or exiting the coach. I pulled up the ribbed plastic floor covering, glued & screwed down two pieces of 1/2" plywood and reinstalled the floor covering. Now the step is flush with the door sill and seems more natural to walk on. I did not take a "before" photo but have attached an "after" photo.

Finally got around to doing same thing. This a MUST do for everyone. Can now walk in or out barefoot or in thin shoes with no problem, can actually sweep dirt out and since toes can now extend over front edge of step on the way out, heel stopped hitting painted step cover on the way out so no more scuffs or scratches on our pride and joy. My material list was a little different - I used two layers of 3/8 plywood with original rubber tread on top and ended up with smooth transition from rubber to aluminum threshold. One piece of 2x4 ft 3/8 cut to 10.5 inches lengthwise. Top piece was 29 inches long and left over was cut into strips and parts spaced evenly for the first layer. With the curved aluminum riser removed the threshold had no support so I stuck some scrap plywood pieces in the void for support before installing the spacers. No screws or nails needed! Glue on bottom kept spacers in place and top piece fit so snug I didn't see how anything could move. There ended up being a very narrow gap/space between the threshold and rubber mat - a bead of silicone calk and done.

edit4ever 01-20-2015 05:07 PM

pic of slides in...
 
My wife and I are just starting to figure out which floorplan may work for us as we get ready to fulltime for a year while on a book tour. Unfortunately, there aren't any Challenger 37GT models in our area right now and I would love to see a pic of the kitchen/living area with the slides in. We think we like the floorplan, but wonder if you can get in the fridge during a quick pit stop??

We'll likely hit the big RV show in Pomona in April as we won't hit the road before November... but as you all know, once you start looking at options, you want to see everything now!! :)

Also, for those of you that own a 37GT, am I correct in seeing that a hole will need to be cut in the wall if we install a washer/dryer?? It says prepped for washer/dryer... but I think that just means water supply, waster pipe and electrical outlets??

Thanks everyone - these forums are awesome!!

AJB 01-20-2015 09:57 PM

We have a '14 37GT. With the slides in you can access the left side of the refrigerator and both sides of the freezer. We just load the refrigerator with the items we know that we will want on the left side. With the slide in you probably have 8 to 10 inches between the counter and stove. If you get a vented dryer, which dries more efficiently, than yes a hole will need to be drilled thru the wall. On my unit they ran the vent into the cabinet in the bedroom and then out the exterior wall.


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